Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Backpack Hunting TiGoat 2010 Cylinder Stove

I'd like to copy this or make a similar design. Just wondering about the material thickness. I see the shim stock in .004(1.9#), .005(2.2#), and .007 (2.9#). Is the .004 plenty durable? My buddie has had a few of these TiGoat and Kifaru stoves and the paper thin pipes seem to hold up decent. Guess I'm just wondering what thickness stainless they use.

Husky, what does the joint that holds the ends of shim stock stove body together look like? It seems that would need to be quite precise to get a good snug fit on the end plates.

280:
No joint, just a decent amount of overlap and a couple of wire rings to hold the cylinder at the right diameter, just the same way the pipe is assembled. It's all in getting the wire rings uniform and the right size. The end plates are tapered a bit so it doesn't have to be too precise. The plates will wedge into the ends of the cylinder and lock the cylinder against the wire rings.

Chesapeake:
I remember hauling out the micrometer and measuring some Kifaru ss pipe I have at .004" so that is what I ordered for these stoves. I'll measure again when I get a chance since my memory is not perfect. TiGoat lists their Ti foil thickness at .005", but I'm not sure if that is what they use for the stove pipe.

I've used the Kifaru pipe for many years and it is very durable.

I emailed Ti Goat awhile back with a stovepipe question and the answer basically said that the Ti foil for sale on their site is their stovepipe.

Thanks Husky. I would suspect the Ti would be a touch thicker than the stainless. I can ask my friend to measure his also.

Pretty sure his TiGoat pipe was titanium, and the Kifaru is stainless. We've had his poor stoves cherry red and they seem to hold up, thought they end up pretty warped up.

Very nice job Husky Runner. Nice stove by Tigoat as well

Thanks huskyrunnr..you inspired me and here is my home made stove

Titanium snow peak plates, stove body and stove pipe is .004 ss shimstock from mcmaster carr, ss aircraft cable. No parts to lose, can be assembled easily with gloves on in the cold, and requires no tools. This is so easy to assemble and only takes a few minutes. The stove drafts excellent and the pipe seals real well where it goes into the stove body. I'm quite happy. Here are some pics of tonights maiden burn. 1/16" ss aircraft cable and ss/al turnbuckles.













[img]http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/797/1stburn4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/264/1stburn3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9195/1stburn2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/8247/1stburn1.jpg[/img]

I used a heavy duty strainer that I bought at wally world for a spark arrestor for the time being. It was way too big and took some cutting and shaping to make it fit. I am going to use 2 of these in the stove pipe, but I am looking for some different material or product. Maybe just some mesh from lowes.
The pipe rolls up easily for packing and when unrolled it goes back to it's stove pipe form due to being heat treated.



Keys in this pic are for reference. Look how insanely tiny this set up goes down to. This was so easy a caveman could do it!!

[img]http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/2481/2ndburn1.jpg[/img]

Well done! I like a number of things you did, especially using the stove door cutout for the door itself, and apparently not having to buy any special hole saws.

I don't swage cable but I do a hasty eye-splice instead. Swaging has to be much faster.

Thanks, yea hole saws were $25 and the ss shim I used a pair of scissors to cut, so no special tools to buy here. Yea, from my old trapping days we used to make our own snares by just feeding a cable end through a nut and smashing with a small sledge or hammer.

Those little turnbuckle assemblies, what is the little hook on each end that grabs the plate formed of? Is that SS cable or all-thread?

280, I drilled a 1/16" holes through the plate end, then fed a 1/16" ss aircraft cable through it, smashed a ferrule over the end, and there you go. These snow peak ti plates have a VERY small lip to them, and you can't use anything larger then 1/16" to go through the plate. So, you can either use 1/16" titanium rod, or use a cable like I did. I felt the rod would be too fragile, be harder to line up straight, and be subject to bending, and the cable is cheaper and very easy to use. I just lightly hand tighten these turn buckles to draw the plates together. You don't need much to get them nice and snug.

Nice looking stove HardCore. I might have to give something like that a try.

Hardcore, I'm a moron man, but a pic just might enlighten me.