Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Ruger M77 bottom metal

I posted this in the rifles forum and got no love...maybe someone here might have some input...

Is anybody making aftermarket (specifically 1 peice) bottom metal for the model 77's? If so who? If not....why? I know you can get bottom metal for rem700 and win model 70....why not for the Rugers? The reason I ask is, i've had issues almost every time I try to put a new stock on one of my rugers whether the stock is a McMillan, B&C or even off another Ruger with the same action length. What gives?

Josh

The problem is two-piece bottom metal. The floorplate latches to the trigger guard, which is a separate piece. Both are tightened against wood surfaces, and screw tension largely influences operation and closure of the floorplate. I don't know where to send you for new Ruger bottom metal because I always just put up with it. But if you do find it, buy the one-piece unit if available.

Having a bit of built in tolerance between the front and rear sections of the two-piece unit makes it a bit easier to work with the angled front action screw that draws the bottom metal and barreled action together at a different angle than the rear section. Having a flush CNC and/or bedded fit helps to eliminate any warpage caused by such a combination when tightening the three screws. Otherwise, it takes a bit of experience and wisdom to properly torque the three screws without binding the action. It can be done. I generally start somewhere around 35-in/lb front / 25-in/lb rear / 15-in/lb middle as a minimum guideline to eliminate binding. I go as tight as the particular stock/bedding allows without binding the action and mag box. One that has a perfect fit can be torqued right up to current Ruger recommended specs without binding the mag box. One that has a poor fit will begin to bind if you go much higher than the above minimum guideline.

Best:)

Yes, I get the same results Gary. I often have to tweek the action screws and check for accuracy. In two cases, most recently when I ordered a new McMillan, I was unable to get the floorplate to close at all. The gap was to tight between the two peices. Even on other rifles, ive always had to screw around (pun intended) with the two peice bottom metal. I've owned other rifles that were as simple as torquing the screws to the recommended poundage, done.

I have a 35 Whelen in a walnut stock. If I turn the middle action screw even 1/10th of a turn further than it is right now (appx 30lbs) the floor plate will close (with mucho pressure) and will not open again unless I remove the rear action screw.

As much as I love the Rugers, I am really begining to dislike the design of the bottom metal. Seems like someone out there should start offering an aftermarket one piece if its not out there already.

Josh

Redhead, Gary and TheDude are right,tensions must be balanced. Too much or too little and the floor plate may not close, accuracy can change, and if things are not lined up correctly, you can interfere with the trigger and bolt fuctions (won't cock, or can release firing pin w/o pressing trigger). In addition, some of the 77's need the magazine box put in from the top, others need to go in from the bottom. Put in wrong, it may not go together, or it may impact accuracy or prevent closing floor plate.
You can get a steel floor plate and trigger guard from Brownells (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8799/Product/RUGER_reg__77_STEEL_FLOORPLATE ). They take a little fitting, usually not just a screwon job. On the one's I've worked on, the finish on the inside of them sometimes needs a bit of work.
I have a love hate relationship with that angle screw.
Bfly