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Joined: Aug 2003
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Thought that might get a laugh or two. Rick got me thinking about my 250 Savage T/D the other day. I checked my new edition of Murrays book and started adding things up. What got me thinking was when Rick said, if its a 1921 gun it would be more difficult.....Well Rick my 99G might be a 1899 250-3000 instead cause its a 1921 gun. So here we go....Going off of the descriptions on page 3-29 and 3-43 this is what I have

Model marking Top of Frame Ring " Savage Model 1899" in two lines.
Forearm length 10 1/8 inches
Barrel length 22 inches
Integral front sight small bead
Rapid taper to barrel but full threads like a "G"
Pistol Grip stock but no perch belly and there is checkering
Buttplate is corrugated steel shotgun style with savage indian in oval at the toe.
Serial # 2373XX
Barrel marking Savage Hi-presure Steel with 250-3000 underneath and the arrows on either side. This is on the LHS.
Trigger is not cross checkered like the 1899, it is serrated.

All of the numbers match. So which side of 1921 is this? Is it a 1899 250-3000 or a transition 99G?

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I'd say it was one of the later 250-3000 variations.

Not all 250-3000's had checkered triggers. The barrel marking sounds 250-3000 as well but I don't have a G to back that up.


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Per the number I got from John C, your rifle is a very early "G". I'm guessing that production was around Dec 1921...Jan 1922. I think the only difference between the last Model 250-3000 and the first Model-G was what Savage wrote in the log book. Check the forearm for the letter "H" stamped in the wood and advise, please. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


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Serial Number was stamped in the barrel channel, nothing stamped on the forearm end like my 1899 H. Seems to be half and half, but the Murray Serial numbers also put it end of the last run of 1899's. Got the barrel problem resolved this afternoon. My gunsmith was able to tighten it right up without shims or anything. Headspace is right on the money too.

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The model 250-3000's generally had an "H" stamped near the serial of the forearm.

What did he do to tighten it?


Savage...never say "never".
Rick...

Join the NRA...together we stand, divided we fall!


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To tighten he worked with a 4 oz. ball peen hammer that has been polished till it is literally perfect when looked at under magnifying glass. Then he LIGHTLY tapped the rear most thread forward towards the muzzle ever so much. After this he tapped along the shoulder that butts up against the reciever towards the rear. Again very little taps all the way around it. This in effect put any metal that had been mushed forward from overtightening back to where it is supposed to be and made the threads and shoulder tighten into each other again. This left no visable marks as it was polished so well and again very light taps, no discernable without a magnifying glass. Had to use the forearm to tighten that last 1/16th of an inch when this was complete. Before it would go past the locked position by a good 1/8th of an inch. Tight as a drum now and no shims, no headspace issues. I am happy to say the least. Ryan

I attached a photo of it.

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What are the years of the patent dates stamped on top of the barrel?

Thanks.

Quote
...Rick got me thinking about my 250 Savage T/D ... if its a 1921 gun it would be more difficult
...Barrel marking Savage Hi-presure Steel with 250-3000 underneath and the arrows on either side.

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Barrel address is Style #4 in the Murray book. From July 1893 to June 1 1909

Serial # range 200,000 to 283, 000

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What book are you using. I'd like to find one.

Thanks,

Jon

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Look in the sticky posts above and you will see the Murray Book, Its like the Savage 99 Bible. Ryan

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NOOOO,not a bible!!!.A pretty fair refrence though.Best out there right now...Jed.


When it comes to choosing friends....I'm at an age where I'd rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.


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