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Given that the recoil lug on a Remington 700 must be removed for barrel installation anyway are there any drawbacks to adding an aftermarket recoil lug, such as a Hollands or Badger, if the gun is going to be restocked as well? Or, put another way, but for the requirement of some minor inletting work with aftermarket lugs, is there any reason to retain the factory lug when rebarreling?

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Your factory lug not strong enough?
You can change it, but I have not seen any real world improvements, (Hunter Benchrest, Metallic Silhouette) from doing so.
But if you want to, by all means change it.


Democracy is not freedom. Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to eat for lunch. Freedom comes from the recognition of certain rights which may not be taken, not even by a 99% vote.
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No......

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Originally Posted by mcmurphrjk
Your factory lug not strong enough?
You can change it, but I have not seen any real world improvements, (Hunter Benchrest, Metallic Silhouette) from doing so.
But if you want to, by all means change it.
I agree with the post above. If it makes you feel better do it. Otherwise, I doubt you will see any gain.

Defiance machine also sells them. .312 is there standard size.

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It makes sense to flat grind a factory lug to make sure the thickness is completely consistent. Cost of doing that is nearly that of a replacement, and you get a better design with the aftermarkets (drafted sides make bedding easier.)

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Hollands .250 stainless lug is the one you want!

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Ackleyfan got it right. You want a Hollands .250.

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Pinning an aftermarket or factory lug is a good idea so if you need to have the barrel removed in the future there is no need to rebed the action.

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How will pinning the recoil lug keep you from having to rebed? I don't rebed when I do a barrel change.
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butch ... pinning the lug just makes sure that when you remove the barrel and lug to put a new tube on, the lug ends up in exactly the same position relative to the action as it was when the original barrel was installed.

If the recoil lug is not in the same position for the new barrel - and if the bedding for the lug is very tight (as it should be), the lug will dictate how the action sits in the stock. If that happens, the action can be canted when set back in the stock. Now, when you go to torque the action screws down, you are creating stress between the action and the recoil lug, which may result in problems.


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Originally Posted by WGM
butch ... pinning the lug just makes sure that when you remove the barrel and lug to put a new tube on, the lug ends up in exactly the same position relative to the action as it was when the original barrel was installed.

If the recoil lug is not in the same position for the new barrel - and if the bedding for the lug is very tight (as it should be), the lug will dictate how the action sits in the stock. If that happens, the action can be canted when set back in the stock. Now, when you go to torque the action screws down, you are creating stress between the action and the recoil lug, which may result in problems.


Only if the guy putting the barrel on don't know what he's doing.


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WGM probably doesn't have the proper tools to orient the recoil lug when putting the barrel on Jim.
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Butch, Jkob

How do you guys make sure the lug is perfectly straight? Pinning always seemed like the easiest way to keep everything straight as there seems to be too much variation in lugs.

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If you reuse the same recoil lug the special tool will line it up properly.
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Originally Posted by butchlambert1
WGM probably doesn't have the proper tools to orient the recoil lug when putting the barrel on Jim.
Butch


wow ... what a good guess there ... seeing as I'm not a gunsmith though, it shouldn't be surprising that I don't have the tools to do it.

I'll bet you don't have the tools to drive 80' long precast concrete piles, do you? See how easy this is? ... (grin)


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Originally Posted by butchlambert1
How will pinning the recoil lug keep you from having to rebed? I don't rebed when I do a barrel change.
Butch


Butch, do you free float up to the lug or do you bed the chamber area.

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special tool? kleindorst?

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WGM,
You're right, but I don't try to do it either. I leave it to the experts. I bed up to the chamber.
Butch

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Please, tell me when I said, or even implied, that I have ever attempted a re-barrel job myself, much less even even contemplated it.

not jabbing at you, but rather just pointing out that I simply provided an explanation as to why it's done ... never even said it was necessary.


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Not trying to give you a hard time, but when you are stating how it would be, you are open to correction. This is how things get started when somebody says something that they heard in a bull session and states this is how it is.
Butch

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