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Have been away from the Campfire for awhile and can only find limited forum history through the search function. Are there sources for learning more about the proper "Big Eye" techniques?

Also interested in whether this technique is useful if elevation is limited, perhaps 15-20 ft with perhaps 1/3 mile between ridges?

Thanks in advance!

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Originally Posted by LoboHunter
Are there sources for learning more about the proper "Big Eye" techniques?


Get some binos(12X minimum) a tripod and adapter and glass....that's all there is to it.

The binocs allow you to use both eyes (which is much less eyestrain than a scope) and the tripod keeps the view stable allowing you to spot small movements. Great for deer and elk.

If you want to "try the idea out " first. Doug used to have 12X Vortex Vultures for like $175 IIRC. A buddy got some and they were great value for the money. Very close to my Minox 15's

[Linked Image]

Find a cheap tripod and you're in businness.

You can always sell your car and upgrade to the Swaros with a Bogan tripod next year....

: )


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Thanks! However the picture is what I would expect. It is a high point with a huge area to glass. I have a particular hunt where there isn't that large vista. elevation variation is 15-20 ft with ridges about every1-3 to 1/2 mile. Vegetation is quite limited.

In the photo, can't tell what is behind you. Do you place yourself so that you aren't highlighted. As you glass, what is the dwell time as you move over the land scape.

For my hunt, would you recommend, setting up on a ridge and continue to glass the limited area that I can see all day, or spend sufficient time to cover the area visible and then move to the next ridge., will still provide view of the one area that I had and add another 1/2 mile width/length to my view.

Suggestions? What tripod?

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I hunt flats and low rolling hills all the time. I have learned that big muley bucks love cholla flats. The only problem is that they are for the most part flat. In that case, I have looked for any slope that would give me height and elevation and glassed any openings I could or any other places I could see more than just the cholla. Many times I have driven a road, cut a track, and got on top of my truck to glass. Its not pretty or safe I am sure, but it gets the job done when hills to glass from are limited.
Distance is distance. 1/3 of a mile to 1/2 mile is say 600 to 800 yards just to round numbers. That stuff can be glassed. If its open you can glass it a little faster, if its thick, you have to move really slow almost to a crawl. Its painfully slow, but when you can barely see in, it necessary.
Angles play a big part too. Sometimes getting lower or higher on the hill exposed more glassable area. Sometimes glassing down a little gully as opposed to glassing across the gully can open more glassing area. In these situations and most of the times I glass flats or small areas, I stand up and glass. I stand in front of some brush and glass because I know moving might be needed to get better angles and to be able to glass more into the brush and since elevation is limited the extra 5 feet or so helps.

As much as I like sitting and glassing an area all morning, evening or all day, in your situation I would move around just so you can glass as much as you can and not be limited in visability. However if you know there is game where you are at, why move? I can see moving say up to a 100 yards to try and get a better view, but if you know the game you are after is there, be patient and stay still. If you are going in blind, moving around the first day might be a good idea just to possibly locate better glassing points and to locate game. Then the following day you can stay sitting in certain spots and be patient.

Tripods I am really starting to like the Vortex tripods. The Pro GT I have was around $100 bucks I think, kinda heavy but I like it very much. A velbon is hard to beat.

Hope this helps,
Kique


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Originally Posted by LoboHunter
As you glass, what is the dwell time as you move over the land scape.

would you recommend, setting up on a ridge and continue to glass the limited area that I can see all day, or spend sufficient time to cover the area visible and then move to the next ridge., will still provide view of the one area that I had and add another 1/2 mile width/length to my view.

Suggestions? What tripod?


I don't have the patience to glass anything all day. I would do like Kique said, move around till you find the best glassing spots- or the areas with the most game and set up on them for the first and last 3 hours of the day. Spend the rest of the time walking (or driving)looking for better spots.

As far as tripods go, that's a Benro A058 in the picture(less than $100), but just about any one will work. I would get a fluid head for it to make things easier.

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smile Kique,

Thanks for the specific advice. My hunt is an off-the-range Oryx, brush varies from light to heavy. With a little rain last week, I was able to determine which fence crossings were being used. Almost all within a mile of each other. However, it is my understanding that they move all day and aren't particularly more active at sunrise and sunset.

The part I can't determine is when they are crossing. I am considering some of the game cameras, if I can locate them unobtrusively. In some locations the road is right next to the fence. In others it is ~10 yds with some brush. I don't want them too visible for others to notice and remove.

When I get my new toys, I will start practicing.

Thanks again for your detailed suggestions.

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Thanks. I appreciate your time in sharing from your experience. Also the suggestion on the tripod. In your photo, the cover looks pretty heavy. How long does it take you to glass that kind of expanse?

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Originally Posted by LoboHunter
In your photo, the cover looks pretty heavy. How long does it take you to glass that kind of expanse?


Actually, I wasn't glassing those trees, but a south facing slope behind them. I've never timed myself.

Just go slow, take your time and watch an area for shapes and movement. Initially you may only spot small bits of the animal, then they'll move and you'll see the rest.

Good luck

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The off range Oryx hunts are fun, alot of people will be driving the fence roads. I have had pretty good luck tracking them from crossings (usually pretty sandy). It is usually pretty easy to find a place that you can glass alot of country.

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Which side of the range have you hunted? The northwest corner, nearest where I live, doesn't seem to have very good vantage points. Had some rain recently which provided information about which crossings have been active recently.

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I primarily glass for coues wt in S. Az. Enrique can back up what I am saying, those deer seeem to come out of the ground. I can glass a slope a half a dozen times then the next time I see several deer!

I would like to add a few more details. Try to get into position before first light. Sit on a pad or low chair so you are comfortable. I like to use my 10 x 40s (7x will certain work for this) on the tripod to get a general overview of the area and especially look at the areas that are closer. Then move to the larger pair. A really nice swiveling head is critical to smooth movements.

As for technique, the binos should be positioned on an area and remain stationary as you look through the entire field of view for any movement or unusual shapes. Then pan next to that view and slowly continue across the entire area horizontally. I like to have a slight overlap of the previous field of view. It is your choice to start at the top of your view or the bottom. Once you have finished a complete horizontal sweep move the binos up or down slightly for the next horizontal sweep. Continue doing this for the entire viewing area. THEN REPEAT. The amazing part of this glassing is that you may not see any game for several complete viewings of the area and then on the third, fourth or even more viewings you start to see game.



As for how long to stay in one place is up to you. I prefer to stay from dawn to around 10 or 11 am. Then go out again around 2:30 till dark. I rarely move from my morning or evening spot.

If glassing with a tripod and "big eyes" is new to you it is going to be tough to become a believer. If you know anyone that has done this type of glassing get out with them to learn. There is nothing like it once you see how effective it can be you'll use it often.

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As to glassing, binoculars and wether to move, or sit and glass, depends on alot of things.
First of all, as to binoculars, the more powerful the binocular, the more money you need to spend. I've never seen a $200 12X binocular that could show me as much as a mid priced 8-10X. This is easy to test. Simply stack them on your tripod and go quickly between them while looking for fine details.
Second, if you aren't using a tripod, then the heavier the binocular, the better it will work. My 12X50, for instance, goes 46 ozs. with carrying strap and covers. Works quite well hand held. But any binocular,from an 8X up, works better from a tripod.
I mention this if you need to find the animals and cover ground on foot. Nobody likes carrying alot of extra weight as in a tripod. But, to really glass for long periods, w/o a tripod, extra weight really helps. Actually, if I'm going to cover alot of ground, and may or may not sit a glass seriously for a while, I usually carry two binoculars. One light weight 6-8X, that's 19-20 ozs. for the 6X, and a much heavier 8-12X in my pack for those sit down sessions.
One of the things I've learned over the years is that alot of open, even very open, flat looking country can easily hide animals in small folds or even waist deep gullies. That's why any elevation you can get, even sitting on the roof of a pickup, can really help.
The other is to be patient. It's unusual for me to spend less than an hour glassing while sitting down. And not at all unusual for me to spend 2-3 hours at it. If I know they are they there, even several hours isn't too much. E

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Lobo, I have hunted the north and NW side of the range, I killed one near the NW corner and one on the north end. On the NW corner I would focus just west of the "sandhill" towards the tank, you can glass alot of the country from the road, that country is not near as flat as it looks so be patient. If I can help some more send me a PM.

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Thanks to all for your experiences, the techniques that you use and equipment suggestions. I am getting a tripod and a set of 15 power bino's. I currently don't have any binoculars less than 10 power but may need to consider something lower as well.

What fluid heads are being used?

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I am using a 6 yr old Bogen fluid head. It accepts a small base with a snap in and easy release system. My two binos, a small shooting bag and even my chronograph have those bases. It has served me well with no issues.

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LoboHunter,
Gridding as AZshooter explained works very well. You want to pick apart the brush/trees to see ears, antlers, horizontal backlines, just parts of deer that are mostly hidden. I like to sweep the area first before gridding to locate the obvious deer in the open.

For a lightweight fluid head that is relatively inexpensive ~$80, you might consider the Manfrotto 700RC2. The nice thing about a fluid head is that if the tension is set right, you can pan it horizontally with your nose while glassing.


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Thanks for the recommendation!

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I appreciate the information on your approach and the recommendation for the fluid head. All the posts are adding to my understanding of the technique. Thanks again all!


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