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Hi guys, I was inspired by VAnimrods post on JB weld bedding his rifle that I wanted to try it. Take a look at the pictures and process. I don't think this has been posted on the new hawkeye synthetic stocks yet. BSA.
Here's the victim, Ruger hawkeye all weather 308:
[Linked Image]
As you can see it is hollow under the chamber area, so this had to be fixed!!
[Linked Image]
I found this to be a good solution, (1"x3/4" block of green plastic):
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
Now I've got a starting place for a good foundation under the chamber to support the barrel when I freefloat it.
Time to put the JB in.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
I put some leftover release agent from my last bedding job + some one shot on the action where the bedding compound is. I've got blue tape on the stock too. Now I set the action in the stock and let it dry over night.
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/001-4.jpg[/img]
This morning I seperate the action from the stock. Here's some tools for the job.
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/005-4.jpg[/img]
I like to set the rifle in my lap while sitting down in a chair with the action screw side up. I put a towell on the barrel and give a firm whack with the plastic coated hammer. It comes out very easy (what a relief!!).
Now you can see, I've got the foundation I wanted and it should be pretty strong with all that JB in there. Now I rough up the JB and get ready to apply the last coat.
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/007-1.jpg[/img]
Looking pretty good so far. It's curing now and I'll pull it apart in about 12 hours from when I set the action in (7:00 p.m).
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/008.jpg[/img]
When everything is cured (24 hours) I'll start freefloating the barrel. I'll post pictures of the finished product for those of you who are interested in giving the JB weld bedding job a try. So far, I am very happy with the results. BSA.



Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
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Thanks for the pics. So why are you applying two coats instead of just one layer of JB Weld?

Also why not free float at the same time?

No criticism intended. Just fixing to tear into my rifles this winter so consider this 'research'.

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Originally Posted by GrizzlyBear
So why are you applying two coats instead of just one layer of JB Weld?


Not sure of the motivation for the original poster, but as it sets, epoxy shrinks in proportion to the amount used. Some epoxies shrink more than others of course, but regardless the rule of the thumb is that the more that is used, the more it shrinks.

Therefore by applying the "bulk" of the epoxy first, and letting it cure, you let the vast majority of a shrinkage occur...The second "skim coat" will then show virtually no shrinkage..

Bedding epoxies are designed to be low shrinkage anyway, but I'm not sure about J-B Weld, so this two stage approach would seem a good idea.

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Originally Posted by Pete E
Originally Posted by GrizzlyBear
So why are you applying two coats instead of just one layer of JB Weld?


Not sure of the motivation for the original poster, but as it sets, epoxy shrinks in proportion to the amount used. Some epoxies shrink more than others of course, but regardless the rule of the thumb is that the more that is used, the more it shrinks.

Therefore by applying the "bulk" of the epoxy first, and letting it cure, you let the vast majority of a shrinkage occur...The second "skim coat" will then show virtually no shrinkage..

Bedding epoxies are designed to be low shrinkage anyway, but I'm not sure about J-B Weld, so this two stage approach would seem a good idea.

Great explanation Pete E, that was part of the approach idea. I left out the fact that I also JB welded the green plastic in before adding the first batch of JB weld. See picture below:
[Linked Image]
This second picture shows the foundation formed by the first application of JB weld.The release agent worked like a champ. Should of posted this picture with the rest when I started this thread. Sorry.
[Linked Image]
One of the reasons for doing different stages is because JB is pretty runny and I wanted to establish a good foundation and make sure my block was tall enough (which it was). My second application is curing right now and will soon be hard enough to seperate the action from the stock. After everything has cured for 24 hours it will be ridgid enough that I will feel comfortable relieving it a little around the forend tip and down the barrel channel. This stock is hollow underneath the barrel, otherwise I would of freefloated it while bedding (normal operation for me when bedding a wood stock). Hope this helps. BSA.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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What would we ever do without JB Weld......good stuff!

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Check this out guys. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I freefloated the barrel too. By the time I shoot it next weekend it should be totally cured and stronger than the hubs of hell. Here are some more pictures so you guys can see what my intentions were from the start. Hope you like it. By the way, the One shot worked better than I had imagined: I don't think I'll use it for sizing lube, but save it for future bedding jobs. BSA.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
What do you guys think? BSA.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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I assume you're using the One Shot as your release agent?


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Yep rubmaster. It worked very well.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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As you can see, the barrel had no support under the chamber. It was supported at the forend tip and at the flimsy recoil lug area. Now with the proper support it is relieved at the forend tip and allowed to freefloat. Accuracy should be greatly improved by using this method. What do you guys think?


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Wish all mine came out that well.

Looks good, should improve accuracy and consistency. One thing I have done is to add graphite powder to the last skim coat to make it match the stock better. I am not sure how much this weakens the epoxy. That and a little black dye from an accra glass kit usually is a good match.

On yours very little will show and a lick or two with a black sharpie will hide it even if not fine gunsmithing.


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Tejano, thanks for the compliment. This was the first time with JB weld. I saw it on another post and thought it would bond well with the plastic ruger stock. I didn't have any dye and tried to keep it simple and cheap (ha ha). I thought about the sharpie trick too, but when I put it all together you can't see the JB weld anyways. Here are some pictures to show what it looks like on the outside along the chamber. Take care, BSA.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Nicely done, I have used JB for bedding but as you mention it is pretty runny so I tend to use Devcon 10110 for that stuff. I still use JB for bedding scope beds to actions and it has been great.

I highly recommend doing the staged bedding with JB, it shrinks more than some of the other projects.

Did you test accuacy before and after? I admit Im guilty to pretty much floating and bedding stuff without even shooting it before I start working on it.


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Thanks for the compliment varmintsinc. I shot the rifle before bedding and have not shot it after. When I get home from work it is almost dark!! I'll try it out this friday. I'm thinking it will shoot better now and be a little more consistant. Although it was shooting an average of 1 1/2" groups, it wasn't good enough for me. I've got 3 30-06's that I've bedded and they are all 3/4 moa consistant shooters. I've always heard the 308 is more inherently accurate than the o6, so I'm hoping to be impressed by the range session this friday. BSA.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Here are some pictures of friday's range session. Out of 3 (45.5 R-P and FC cases and 46gr. R-P case) loadings with varget and cheap hornady 150 gr. interlocks, this is a good starting point for load development. Seems like 46 gr. of Varget in the R-P case is alright (not great accuracy, but a start). Hope some of you guys with hawkeye allweathers can use some of this info. The rifle is definately shooting more consistantly than before (a definate plus for any rifle). Check out the pics:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
Raining lightly at the time with light wind.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
After 4 clicks down with scope.
[Linked Image]
4 clicks to the left. Don't think the rifle likes the Federal cases as well as the R-P (Group opens up to 1.30" after 6 3 shot groups fired). I'm hoping to find the magic load for this rifle. I'll keep messing with the varget powder until I run out, then I might try the R-15 or IMR4895 or even the 4064. BSA.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Ignorance asking a question here. How'd you keep goop out of the front action bolt hole; both stock and action? Release agent on both holes and the bolt? Thanks


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Originally Posted by shootem
Ignorance asking a question here. How'd you keep goop out of the front action bolt hole; both stock and action? Release agent on both holes and the bolt? Thanks


Yep. Release agent into the hole and on the screw. Squish down into the goo, Q-tip out the hole to the best degree possible, run the screw in and then back out, clean the screw and hole again, and retreat with OneShot, then screw her back down.




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Have a B&C Medalist that looks to need recoil lug bedding in the aluminum block and have heard "skim bedding" on the surface of the block is good to do with them. May have to muster the courage and do it myself.


“When Tyranny becomes Law, Rebellion becomes Duty”

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Originally Posted by shootem
Ignorance asking a question here. How'd you keep goop out of the front action bolt hole; both stock and action? Release agent on both holes and the bolt? Thanks

Shootem, that's an excellent question. Like VAnimrod said, plus you want to be extra carefull in that area and only put bedding material on the sides and a little (skim coat) on the backside of the recoil lug area. If you look at the pictures of when I applied the last of the JB I went pretty easy in that area. VAnimrod ran into that problem and he had to get dave and someone else to help him out of a tight spot. I use double release agent on the bolt and the hole of the recoil lug. Keep a close eye on the hole after you install the action. I was very lucky and didn't have too much of a problem with it getting into the hole. I did have to do like VA said and use a Q-tip and get it out before putting the action screw (angled bolt) in. After carefully removing the small amount of JB from around the hole, I swabbed it out with some of the blue release agent from a brownells accraglass kit I had left over. I like plenty of that stuff on the angled action screw, so when I go to take it apart it breaks free pretty easy. Hope that helps a little. BSA.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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RL15 did very well in mine.

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Thanks MagMarc, I had my heart set on getting some until I saw it was about 4-5 dollars more per pound than the Varget. I think I am going to try some anyways. More velocity and some say just as accurate (hopefully better than the varget in my rifle).


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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