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Originally Posted by Huntz
Red Wing Boot Oil.



It was the Redwing folks who sold me Obenhaufs... it has been good stuff for me, though I'll admit up front I'm not a one-legged sheep hunter in Alaska.


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Am I wrong in thinking this way? If your boots need drying out after using then in my opnion they were never waterproof and what you are using dosen't work. what did I miss.?


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Not sure about you, but when I'm very active, including in colder weather, I need to manage moisture within my boots from my feet. The socks manage the moisture away from my feet, and the boot lining and boot construction manage the moisture from my socks. Though my feet feel dry, with heavy activity, there is a certain degree of moisture within the boot.

A PEET dryer as shown above, circulates air via convection up the tube which prevents any bacteria from forming within that moisture and allows the boot to dry without any excessive heat. Newspaper is another at home method to remove this interior moisture.

Best:)

Last edited by GaryVA; 12/17/10.

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Any thoughts on Danner's boot dressing?


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Originally Posted by Jeff_O
Originally Posted by Huntz
Red Wing Boot Oil.



It was the Redwing folks who sold me Obenhaufs... it has been good stuff for me, though I'll admit up front I'm not a one-legged sheep hunter in Alaska.


The guy told me to use it on boots with Goretex as it keeps the leather from drying out and cracking.It seems to have no effect on the Goretex.I do not think it actually makes the boot water proof.When I was a kid we used Bear grease to dress our hunting boots with.We would heat the boots up,rub it in then put a coat of Febrings on top of that.
Since boots have been lined with Goretex I have not had wet feet.


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I thought they were addressing the problem of water soaking through the boot as they were talking of waterproofing the leather. sweat is a differant problem. I wear socks that wick the sweat off my feet and never had a problem with them being wet from sweat.


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One thing about beeswax is if you wear your boots in summer, the wax draws bees. Fact. Lemon scented anything does the same thing.

Neatsfoot oil keeps your boots supple, but I don't know how it would work with Gortex. It's basically Cologen in a liquid form, comes from the joints of "neat" cattle, meaning cows as opposed to the ancient term "cattle" which meant livestock.


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Redwing all natural boot oil contains mink oil and pine pitch. It may contain some beeswax but it is thin. You need a heavier wax for heavy duty waterproofing. I take my boots in once a month to the Redwing cobbler and they paint the stuff on with a paint brush. They recommend stuff like Montana Pitch Blend or Obenauf's for an all natural heavier beeswax product that doesn't gunk up the works.

Best:)

Last edited by GaryVA; 12/17/10.

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I've used Obenauf's before but it DID make a gunked up mess! Does anyone know the correct way to apply it without making a mess?

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Melt it first in a microwave for easier application. It will not separate. Old Firefighter's Trick: Set boots in a plastic bag in the sun after a liberal application of Heavy Duty LP.


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I've had the same two pair of Vasque Gore-tex boots for more than 20 years (no exaggeration). I swear by Aquaseal creme/paste (NOT their liquid version...I don't care for any liquid leather treatments). It was once also sold as the official Vasque creme/paste and liquid. That alliance is no longer. Same great stuff, though.

I trust SnoSeal to leather boots with no waterproof membrane. It's good enough for boots I know I'm going to destroy anyway. The one thing I don't like about SnoSeal (vs. Aquaseal) is that it seems like I have to apply it almost twice as often.

I've had good luck with applying my treatment and then putting the boots in the oven on a clean piece of cardboard and setting it to "warm" for 30 minutes. Normally, the leather will suck up all the treatment, but just in case it runs off the side, the cardboard is there to catch it. I stick the Gore-tex boots in the sun in a window or near a heater vent. I don't put those in the oven.

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Last edited by WindsorFox; 12/12/11.
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Pure beeswax for me on pure leather boots. Only need to apply every couple of years if I really lay it on heavy with a hair dryer.

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Well, it is less expensive than the Skidmore's treatment. I think I am going to contact them and ask what exactly the difference is between their product and 100% pure wax and what do they believe the advantage is.

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Originally Posted by 257_X_50
One pair of boots is on its third soles. 35 years and nothing but Sno Seal.



Dude, you need to get out more!!! 35 years on one pair of boots. $400 boots don't last me 3!!


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Dennis,

Not everybody lives in Arizona. I've hunted there enough to know that it's rocky enough to wear out ANY boots fairly quickly.

If you hunt various sorts of country (you remember Montana in November?) selecting different boots for different conditions helps a LOT. I have too many hunting boots, but own 4-5 different types for various conditions from dry/hot/sandy to to swamp/rainy to really cold/snowy. Some are pretty versatile, but there isn't any all-around boot for every kind of terrain, everywhere.

Addtionally, boots used primarily for hunting in wet swamps or snow will last a lot longer than boots used exclusively in the rocky state otherwise known as Arizona. I hunt more than 4 months a year, but don't wear out one pair of boots in any year--but I do wear out at least one pair of my several DIFFERENT pairs of hunting boots each year.

In fact I have one pair of Schnee's unlined rubber-bottomed pacs that have had so many tops and bottoms replaced so many times that I can't remember. In fact, it's been at least 15 years since they ceased to be the same boots I bought.


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Has anyone tried pure lanolin or jojoba oil?


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Originally Posted by ikesdad
Has anyone tried pure lanolin or jojoba oil?


IMO that would be the same as "oil," which Van Gorkom does not recommend on a regular basis.

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I also soak the braided laces in beeswax. The laces then wear like leather laces, don't loosen and last a long time.
Pete


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Sno-seal is an excellent waterproofer as long as it's not applied to bone dry leather ! If the leather is dried out , treat with Neetsfoot oil , let it soak in for a couple of days . Then apply the sno-seal for a seal that's impervious to water for a year or more . I used to work in the woods all winter long , and my boots never leaked .


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