Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Clutch Replacement Cost Estimate 1994 Nissan 4wd P/up

My 1994 Nissan truck decided its time for a new clutch this afternoon.

Does anyone have a ballpark figure on what the replacement cost will be?

If you can turn a wrench, you'll save a bundle by doing it yourself. It's not that hard with a good manual. I priced one for my '87 Bronco II. DIY, including renting a tranny jack is about $150. I was quoted a store-bought job at around $700. I can find lots of other stuff to do with the $550 difference.
Mine is just needing a throwout bearing right now but with 200K on it, it's not going back in without a whole new kit. It's not THAT much fun changing one.

Thanks for the info. I will have to go the garage route because I am not mechanical enough to change the oil in a bicycle.

Don't know if the 94 has any similarities as the 83 I had. Mine was a 4x4, 2.4 liter 4 banger. Had to remove front seats and carpet to get to an access panel just to remove two bolts at the top of the bell housing. I personally would not volunteer to do annother one if there was anyway around it. Was a major PITA.

Boy, I sure hope things have changed on the 94.

I had a 77 BMW 320I that had the tranny go out. I was so broke I couldn't afford a new throwout bearing after choking up the $$$ for a factory rebuilt transmission. After I put it back together the first time I stepped on the clutch the throwout bearing made a slight noise. I thought I was in deep poo-poo. I ended up putting close to a 100,000 miles on it (I eventually sold it) with the noisy throwout bearing and never replaced it.

I talked to my little fat buddy over at the garage and he seems to think it might not be the clutch but something knocked out of whack somewhere.


I'll know more on Thursday.

Normally clutches just don't die over-night.

Usually start to slip and just get progressively worse, my experience anyways. Different story on a pulling vehicle, but again they usually give you a little warning also.



Might be a good thing, might not for you? Hope for the best and expect the worst...

Had an 88 Toyota with a leaky clutch master cylinder. No fluid in the reservoir doesn't let you shift gears too easily....rpm matching got me the 3 miles home from school, took the route with only a couple stop signs that got ignored.

Normally, once in a while the pressure plate pukes and you have no warning.

What exactly happened? Did clutch pedal go to the floor? Did gears grind while shifting? If you are rolling & push clutch in,does truck stop rolling or does it keep going? Could be as simple as a slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder gone out.Have you checked the fluid in reservoir?If you do need a clutch,do like someone else posted,change clutch,pressure plate,release bearing & pilot bearing or bushing.Transfer case has to be removed before transmission can be removed,torsion bars have to be removed & crossmember too.If you are not mechanically inclined,you need to let someone else do it.The last one I changed,I charged the guy about $250-300 labor.

The clutch just started slipping going up hill as I gave the truck more gas . I checked all the fluids and they are fine and I saw no signs of any leaking.

The only other thing I have noticed is that when you down shift from 3rd to 2nd gear there is occasionally a "growling" racket and if the rpms are above about 1,000 the thing acts kind of like an old vehicle with an unsynchronized transmission and is stiff getting into gear.


I am taking the truck over to the garage first thing this morning to get it checked out.

if it's slipping more than likely it's shot.

Sounds like the pressure plate is getting weak. Won't hold against the clutch plate when driving, and not releasing to shift. If thats the problem make sure new clutch/pressure plate, throw-up bearing :-) and resurface flywheel. Once its apart it doesn't pay to skip something to save a couple bucks. Biggest cost is in the removal/replacement.

Just back from the garage. Good news on my truck too. The shop owner and I went on an extended test drive and he put the clutch thru all its paces. Its not the clutch but a low rpm miss that is causing it to cavort and carry on . The worst will be a plug job.

It does have some wear on the shift gates etc but not enough to worry about a fix right now.

I told you all I was mechanically ignorant.

Glad to hear it was a simple (cheap) fix. Tearing into the clutch on the nissan I had was a bear.

Glad it was an easy fix

definitely cheaper than a clutch job

I think the heavy rain we had last week may have been the culprit. I was off work and the truck mostly sat in the rain not being driven and getting drenched. I raised the hood yesterday afternoon and let the sun dry everything out good and its back to running great this morning.