Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Building a shed - what about the header?

It's me again Margaret....

This diagram is from my shed plans for the front wall.



This is the materials list for the front wall:

Front Wall w/5' door
1 2x4 pt pine 9' 5� bottom plate
1 2x4 pine 9' 5� top plate
6 2x4 pine 6' 9� wall studs
2 2x4 pine 6' 3.5� door cripple studs
2 2x6 pine 5' 3� header outsides
1 1/2� osb 5.5� x 5' 3� header inside
1 2x4x8 pine cut to fit upper wall studs
2 1/2� x 4'x8' smart lap siding 4' x 7' 4� siding
2 1/2� x 4'x8' smart lap siding 1' x 7' 4� siding

Don't y'all think he probably means "jack studs" instead of "cripple studs"?

And why do I need (2) outside headers?

Once again, I appreciate the help.

You need to so they will be the same thickness as the studs.
Don't scrimp on this. It's not enough money to matter.

Yes! Thanks so much!

My shed so far. I got to the header part in my instructions and wondered why I needed two - where would the other one go?

LOL!

Take some 1/2 inch plywood and sandwich it between the 2x6's. That will give you 3 1/2 inches, the same as your 2x4's.

Cripple studs are what any studs shorter than your common studs are called.

What he is calling "cripples" are actually "trimmers", which are used to hold up your header. They are nailed to your king studs which in this case are the same length as your common studs.

You need two with a piece of 1/2" plywood or OSB sandwiched in between to get the same thickness as the studs


Mike

http://www.architectionary.com/cripple

..." cripple

any vertical structural member in a frame that is shorter than the standard members.

an example of a cripple stud is a jack stud

the term "cripple wall" may also refer to a framed stud wall extending from the top of the foundation to the underside of floor framing for the lowest occupied floor level."...

Right behind the first one. As some have suggested you can put a piece of 1/2 inch plywood (OSB will work) between the headers so they will be the exact same thickness of the studs. The header shown in the picture is actually comprised of the two pieces of 2x6.

About the cripples to jacks....

I say that because this is how his instructions read:

Ok, this is the wall containing your door.

Following the materials list cut sheet, you'll want to lay out your top and bottom wall plates and mark off locations of your wall studs and jack studs ( these are the wall studs supporting
the header which are on either side of your door opening).

1. Next, build your header cutting your header material according to cut sheet.

2. Place all full wall studs and jack studs into place and also place your header in the appropriate spot and nail all studs to plates and nail header to jack studs and wall studs.

3. Now you'll want to mark the exact middle of the wall directly located above the middle of your header. This is important here, even if you have plans that call for your door to be located on either side of center. You'll want to be able to cut your siding panels out along the outside edges of your jack studs and header bottom so you can use these siding panels to build your doors with. Both panels should be roughly exactly the same dimensions for building your doors coming up in a later phase.

I'd never heard of either one until I started this project - way more than I can really chew by myself

Thanks so much MColeman - I appreciate it! And everybody else too.

It's amazing how I can come here with questions and leave with crystal clear answers. I love y'all!

I saw this just a little while ago - when I was trying to figure the Shedking was talking about.

I bought my plans from http://www.shedking.net/gable_shed_building_plans.html

I used double jack studs in my overhead doors and 2x10/plywood header. Then I sheathed the header,cripples and top plate and glued and screwed plywood to tie it all in.

Here is my new shop as it went up.













[img:center]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u52/doetail68/garagefloor005.jpg[/img]

[img:center]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u52/doetail68/garagefloor002.jpg[/img]

[img:center]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u52/doetail68/garagefloor004.jpg[/img]


[img:center]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u52/doetail68/shop1.jpg[/img]

A small unimportant thing when using free span trusses. You really don't need anything but a 2X4 header on the gable ends. The trusses are carrying all the load to the exterior load bearing walls

That may be true...but not code in my area.

That very well could be the case..

you nail thru the sides of the king studs
into the end of the header.
the cripples or trimmers marry to the king studs and support the header so you have continuous bearing down to your bottom plate.
then you cut out the threshold.
if you are glueing the wall to the subfloor do not put construction adhesive under the threshold.
something as small as a shed, i square the walls on the ground and sheet then stand,leaving the corner sheeting off to tie the corners together.

tedthorn, your new shop is beautiful! MO isn't all that far from me - how 'bout coming down and helping this 50 yo semi-arthritic woman finish her little shed??? Please bring a big nail gun, because my right hand feels like it's about to explode.

Don't know how I'm gonna get the trusses up there, but I'll figure something out.

And thanks ravenr - I need all the help and advice I can get! LOL!

Instructions say to "...and nail header to jack studs and wall studs."

How do I nail the header to jack/cripple/trimmer studs? Toenail?

just set the header up on the cripples (or jackstuds as your plans call them), then nail thru the king studs into the end of the header....