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I can pick up a Benelli Vinci for about $200 or so cheaper than a Benelli Super Vinci and the Vinci can be had with a 24 inch barrel while the SV comes in shortest 26 inch barrel. For turkey, fox, coyote, rabbit, duck, dove how much more range could I get with a 3.5 inch gun?


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Originally Posted by jimmyp
I can pick up a Benelli Vinci for about $200 or so cheaper than a Benelli Super Vinci and the Vinci can be had with a 24 inch barrel while the SV comes in shortest 26 inch barrel. For turkey, fox, coyote, rabbit, duck, dove how much more range could I get with a 3.5 inch gun?
Range is more a factor of shot size than case length..

I've never seen the need for anything over a 2 3/4" chamber yet..


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Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by jimmyp
I can pick up a Benelli Vinci for about $200 or so cheaper than a Benelli Super Vinci and the Vinci can be had with a 24 inch barrel while the SV comes in shortest 26 inch barrel. For turkey, fox, coyote, rabbit, duck, dove how much more range could I get with a 3.5 inch gun?
Range is more a factor of shot size than case length..

I've never seen the need for anything over a 2 3/4" chamber yet..


+1

3�" guns/shells are just another ploy to get hunters to ante up more money.

(3�" on rabbits, ducks, and doves?? crazy )

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I bought the first 3 1/2" shotgun I saw. A Browning BPS. In a pump, because of the extra length of the receiver and the mag arms that extend from the fore end and work the bolt, you've got to reach a couple more inches to pump that sucker. I found it very uncomfortable and sold the gun a couple months after I got it. The season I used it, I went through 2 boxes of 3 1/2" shells and didn't notice any difference at all in killing power. I based my opinion on 3 1/2" shells on that. My friends have a lease on a couple goose fields and probably 9 out of 10 of them use 3 1/2" guns and they buy ammo by the case. They tell me that it is definitely an advantage... for goose hunting. The shells have gotten a lot better. I would guess this would be an advantage for turkey hunting too, but for turkeys, you can use lead! I'd think that there would make it unnecessary. I wouldn't own one for the added weight. 90% of my shotgunning has been with a 2 3/4" Remington 1100 and a 3" Remington 11-87, and the only reason I bought the 11-87 was that I was hunting waterfowl and when steel first came out it stunk. If you're not going to hunt waterfowl, a Remington 1100 is all you would ever need. I've seen racks full of them used from $300 up. As with Remington 870 Wingmaster shotguns, they made millions of them and there's a lot of used ones to be had in varying levels of wear and tear. Remington 11-87s are showing up on the used racks too. My Premier is about $1,000 new and I've seen lots for around $500 used. You won't find a better shotgun than an 11-87 Premier. There have been a lot of studies where they have found over and over again that the 11-87 and the Beretta 391 have been the most shootable shotguns out there, in terms of recoil and breakdowns. I've seen articles that they are the preferred guns for the wing shooting lodges down in Argentina and such where they shoot hundreds and hundreds or rounds dove hunting day after day.


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Rob, thanks for the reply, some had commented that the 3.5 inch shell was an effective replacement for a 10 gauge. My hope was that it might throw a pattern deadly at longer distance.


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I hunt ducks, upland birds and predators with a shotgun. The only reason I use 3" 12ga shells is so I can tell instantly that it is steel shot. The gamies don't givr you a second chance if you got a trap load mixed in with your duck loads.

3" 12ga Steel or Tungsten based

2 3/4" 12ga Lead shot

2 1/2" 12ga roll crimp ITX or Nice Shot
2 1/2" 12ga fold crimp lead shot

The last few weeks I've been hunting ducks with an old 12ga hammer double and low pressure loads of 7/8oz ITX #4 has been dropping them as well as any 3" steel I used earlier in the season.


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A 3 1/2" shell will not withstand any more chamber pressure than a 2 3/4" shell but the weight of the extra 3/4" of shot will cost you muzzle velocity. Redneck is half right. Range is determined by shot size ...and muzzle velocity.

The 3 1/2" shell will have better shot density for as far as it will shoot, but it won't shoot as far as a 2 3/4" shell loaded with the same size shot.


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Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by jimmyp
I can pick up a Benelli Vinci for about $200 or so cheaper than a Benelli Super Vinci and the Vinci can be had with a 24 inch barrel while the SV comes in shortest 26 inch barrel. For turkey, fox, coyote, rabbit, duck, dove how much more range could I get with a 3.5 inch gun?
Range is more a factor of shot size than case length..

I've never seen the need for anything over a 2 3/4" chamber yet..


Not much in the way of shotgunning I agree with you on but you nailed it right on the money here!


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2 3/4" loads of 1 1/8oz. #2 Nice Shot @1250fps have been killing geese for me as well as any factory 3" non-tox load I abused myself with previously. Since when have ducks and geese sprouted Kevlar feathers?


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I was under the impression that the 3.5 inch shells/guns operated at higher pressure and thus equal velocity to the shorter shells?


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Originally Posted by MontanaCreekHunter
Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by jimmyp
I can pick up a Benelli Vinci for about $200 or so cheaper than a Benelli Super Vinci and the Vinci can be had with a 24 inch barrel while the SV comes in shortest 26 inch barrel. For turkey, fox, coyote, rabbit, duck, dove how much more range could I get with a 3.5 inch gun?
Range is more a factor of shot size than case length..

I've never seen the need for anything over a 2 3/4" chamber yet..


Not much in the way of shotgunning I agree with you on but you nailed it right on the money here!
Actually, you might be surprised how much we DO agree on... Just haven't found the opportunity yet.. We just disagree on 'loose-shooting Brownings'..

laugh laugh




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Originally Posted by jimmyp
I was under the impression that the 3.5 inch shells/guns operated at higher pressure and thus equal velocity to the shorter shells?


The longer shells do shoot more shot at the same velocity, read the books or check the website.

I primarily use shotguns for turkey only. The 3.5 loads have a better pattern at longer ranges. They also seem to hit with more authority at 35+ yards. I would say they usually give an extra 10 maybe 15 yards when comparing EQUAL set-ups. It is not difficult to get a 3" gun to have a legit 40 yard turkey pattern.

For predators, there is a lack of 3.5 loads currently. Most loads are 3".

The 3.5 is worth it on turkey but probably less of an advantage for other game.

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3.5 is marketing BS and those that fall for it and buy into really don't shoot that much shotgun.

Pattern the 3.5" see how many flyers you have versus a 2-3/4".

Most turkey hunters shoot way to big of shot size. Another disadvantage.

If you can't call a turkey in closer then 40 yards you don't need more shot, you need to learn how to call and hunt turkey.

I kill em stonecold dead with 2-3/4" #7-1/2 shot thru a Extra Full choke.





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But then again I much rather hunt em like this

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if you go to the shotgun/duck hunting websites a lot of people are using the 3.5 inch shells


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So because a lot of people use 3.5 make it needed or the right product?

A lot of people use heroin, personally I'll pass!


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I agree IMHO there is no need for a 3.5" shell.
I have killed hundreds of waterfowl and not once have I or anyone I have hunted with ever said sure wish I had some 3.5 inchers today.
If a person spends the time putting different shell and choke combinations on paper at 30-40-50 yards you will find that awesome set up for your shotgun.


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I like 3.5's.

Call shy birds sometimes are hard to get close.

There are also more fliers around that pattern that is way denser at longer range, so what.

The recoil is brutal; some people cannot handle that. I do not mind a little more recoil for a performance gain. They kick hard, and if there was not a performance gain then I would not shoot one.

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that's a pretty foolish comment and a poor argument. A lot of people posting on shotgun web sites use the 3.5 inch shells, a lot of duck and goose hunters. To compare a hunter to a heroin addict sounds like a democratic argument to me.


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I am thinking Maxus more than Benelli now, maybe a gas operated gun will recoil a bit less than an inertia gun.


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I am thinking you are lost but good luck on your endeavors. Some very knowledgable people tried to give you sound tried and true advice. Just goes to show you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.


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Originally Posted by jimmyp
For turkey, fox, coyote, rabbit, duck, dove how much more range could I get with a 3.5 inch gun?


Have yet to see any use a 3.5in 12g and use it a lot. Have been in a Duck blind with a few that used one. For the most part they didn't knock down Ducks any further than those with 2 3/4. Mainly because for the most part they were not good enough to kill them at extended range. Admittedly they did scratch one down know and then that I would have passed on.

Wouldn't be the choice of many for a hot Dove field or a busy day with Rabbits.
Coyotes maybe, but I have zero experience with them. Turkey's perhaps if one insists on shooting long, but the fun is shooting close.

Of course no one says you have to shoot 3.5s and perhaps the Vinci will work with standard 2 3/4.

I've shot some 3.5's and it wasn't fun.

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Originally Posted by jimmyp
Rob, thanks for the reply, some had commented that the 3.5 inch shell was an effective replacement for a 10 gauge. My hope was that it might throw a pattern deadly at longer distance.


3.5" 12ga won't replace a 10ga. The 12's shot string alone weakens that argument.

I shoot 3" in steel, turkey, and coyote loads. 2.75" for everything else...even in my 3.5" 12ga guns.


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maybe my question would be better like this "if you buy a 3.5 inch chambered gun will it shoot 2.75 and 3 inch shells with no negative impact on the patterns from those shells". I would imagine that a 3.5 inch is overbuilt for 3 inch shells and may last longer without significant parts wear.


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Originally Posted by jimmyp
maybe my question would be better like this "if you buy a 3.5 inch chambered gun will it shoot 2.75 and 3 inch shells with no negative impact on the patterns from those shells". I would imagine that a 3.5 inch is overbuilt for 3 inch shells and may last longer without significant parts wear.


Yes it should shoot the shorter shells just fine. The orginal reason for 3.5" shells was to be able to get more steel shot in the case, because steel didn't have the same energy per pellet that lead did, hence needing more pellets to transfer the energy. The newer heavy shots have made the shorter shells more effective than they use to be.

The 3.5 inch guns do have a longer stoke, and it takes a little practice with a pump gun to keep from short strokeing them.


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Originally Posted by jimmyp
that's a pretty foolish comment and a poor argument. A lot of people posting on shotgun web sites use the 3.5 inch shells, a lot of duck and goose hunters.
Yep.. And if they'd go back to the 2 3/4" with proper shot size they'd achieve the same results at a lot less cost..
Quote
To compare a hunter to a heroin addict sounds like a democratic argument to me.
How did you get THAT out of it?? Read it again - nothing in his statement said that..


Do some patterning comparisons with a 2 3/4" load vs. a 3.5" load using the same choke constriction.. You'll be surprised.. I've had guys try to beat me at turkey shoots with a 3.5" - tried and failed.. Many unconsciously react ahead of time to the upcoming heavier recoil and jerk the barrel, screwing up their swing and lead times.. Jamming that much shot into a small choke will result in guaranteed higher numbers of flyers and deformed shot.. You'd be amazed how tight a 1 oz load can be out of a 12 ga..

Originally Posted by Allen917

The 3.5 inch guns do have a longer stoke, and it takes a little practice with a pump gun to keep from short strokeing them.
It also takes practice to have your eyes shut when ya touch it off so as to keep your retinas in place.. laugh laugh


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The reason a lot of guys are shooting 3�" Magnum Wonders is because a lot of guys are buying into the BS slung around by the shotgun/ammo manufacturers, and the outdoor writers (and God forbid- the dufuses on the TV shows) who feed at the trough of said manufacturers. I firmly believe we are becoming a nation of followers instead of free thinkers.


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Orginally there was a pretty good reason for the 3.5" shell. You couldn't get 1 1/2 oz of steel T shot in a 3" case, and your pellet count was pretty skimpy when compared to #2 lead. There was a lot of wounded ducks and geese getting away. Actually 3.5 steel shot shells didn't kick any more than a regular 3" because of the lower or equivelent shot weights.
Now 3.5 with lead shot is a whole different ballgame in a panty weight gun.


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I've got a 3&1/2" mag Browning Maxus with a 26" barrel. It weighs 6lbs 14 oz. and makes for a nice carrying, pleasant shooting 12 gauge upland gun with low base 1 oz or 1&1/8th oz 2&3/4" shells. There's a considerable difference though in felt recoil just by moving up to 2&3/4" high base 1&1/4oz shells. I'll guarantee it'll never see a 3&1/2" magnum with me shooting it.

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so where would we be without arguments on this forum? You honestly expect everyone to get along here?? I think rifles are simple compared to shotguns, I tried 3 of them today and the best fit out of all the poor fits was maybe the Benelli Vinci, the super vinci seemed to have a longer LOP for some reason, the Maxus or the Vinci felt the best (maybe), with the Vinci (maybe) pointing best for me, and oddly enough it does not shoot 3.5 inch shells. whistle


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I use to think that 2 3/4" was all I need too until I finally tried the 3.5" and 3.5" are definitely better. Well, at least for water fowl hunting. 3.5" is not a whole lot better than 3" but definitely better than 2 3/4". I prefer to have more pallets going towards my target than less, since I'm not the greatest hunter in the world. smile Also for 2 3/4" shells to perform okay you'll also be paying a premium price on the non toxic shells, which negates to whole 3.5" costing more, since using steel 3" and 3.5" are cheaper, unless you load your own shells with non-toxic shots.

OP, if you are already paying that much already, you might as well pay a little more for the 3.5" in case you ever need it.

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It is very apperent who here knows what they are talking about and who here hasn't a clue.

Atleast that was a better ask question.:
Yes for the most part a 3.5" gun will cycle 3" and 2-3/4" ammo as well. Some Semi-auto's can be finiky with light loads.

When talking about patterns there are many variables such as the lenght of the forcing cone, the barrels actual bore size (.729 to .750+), and the lenght of the choke tube.

No you are not going to get a better pattern out of a 3.5" shell no matter the actual bore size.


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3.5 inch how much more range does it buy you?

I like to classify shotgunning into upland and waterfowl:

1 Upland.....Give me a prudently loaded 1 Oz 2 3/4" 20 Gauge and I'm ready to go and won't ever want more gun than that.

2. Waterfowl causes me to reach for a 12 Ga and 3" shells and only because I use steel shot because it's affordable and when I get enough shot in the pattern it works great....

IMO the 3 1/2" 12 Ga is a marketing man's dream.....and not much more of use to the hunter.

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Eschew the 3.5".


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Several things to consider here, and most of them have been covered. A 3.5" shell, loaded at the same velocity as a 2.75 or 3" shell, will give you the same energy per pellet at any given distance downrange, therefore, there is no gain in "range" or distance. The secret is to learn to call better, set decoys better, position yourself more effectively and hunt harder. I shoot a Benelli SBE II which of course is a 3.5" gun. However, I all but refuse to shoot 3.5" shells through it, as I have a 10ga, which is appropriate for 3.5" shells.

3.5" shells do not improve your pattern, necessarily, on flying targets, mostly not. The "pattern" is 3 dimensional, not a flat wad of shot flying through the air. Physics dictates that only so much shot can fit into a certain bore diameter. Hence the reason the 10ga is much more appropriate for the 3.5" shells. The shot doesn't "string" as much and will give you a more dense pattern on a moving target due to a shorter shot string.

Stationary targets are a different thing all-together, like a turkey. Usually that turkey head will be in position long enough to take then entire length of the shot string. So, you can make effective use of the larger shot charge.

Personally, I shoot 3" steel thru my SBE II. I bought it because I loved the feel of it, and it has the capability to shoot any 12ga. shell, which gives me options in case I get in a pinch for ammo. That happened last year believe it or not. I had a last minute trip come up and I was not well supplied with ammo. All that was available locally was 3.5" shells. I used them, suffered the headaches and killed stuff just fine. I'll be giving those to a friend of mine who still thinks they kill suff deader. I got plenty of 3" shells on hand now. I'll save the 3.5" duty for the Browning Gold Lite 10ga. It works wonders on late season and conservation season geese.



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Damn...you said that way better than I did.

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I was thinking it, you said it first, I just had to expound on the point. Got a little long-winded maybe. It happens....

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The shot string can be pretty long I guess. Which aftermarket choke does the best job in your opinion or does it depend on the gun?


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I know nothing about shotguns, never studied them or used them to any great extent. As a youth we would stand in front of dogs with 1100's stuffed with whatever buckshot we had on hand, dove fields and wood ducks in swamps were available but I never made a study about it. My 1100 lasted from age 16 until I sold it at age 32 (minus most of the bluing). Now again I have the opportunity to use a shotgun once again, and with my record of buying only one hunting shotgun at a time, want to get a reasonably useful tool. I do like them but my others are really designed for a different purpose.


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My findings prove none. In fact 2 3/4 do dam near as much as 3 inchers and 3.5 incher seem to pattern like [bleep]. Sky bustin water foul or long shots at turkeys are not my gig. I would rather work em, see them decoy, and shoot em close up and personal.

The guys i see shoot 3.5 inch ammo dont know what a good pattern is much less ever pattern there own gun. I really wanted a 3.5 inch gun when thay first came out and bought 3 looking for just 1 to pattern worth a dam and none did, at least not better than a 3 inch gun at given distances.

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my only comment is that Randy Wakeman says the 3.5 inch 12 gauge shell made the 10 gauge obsolete. Randy used to post here but I think we ran him off.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/10_gauge_obsolete.htm



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Originally Posted by x2mosg
Several things to consider here, and most of them have been covered. A 3.5" shell, loaded at the same velocity as a 2.75 or 3" shell, will give you the same energy per pellet at any given distance downrange, therefore, there is no gain in "range" or distance. The secret is to learn to call better, set decoys better, position yourself more effectively and hunt harder. I shoot a Benelli SBE II which of course is a 3.5" gun. However, I all but refuse to shoot 3.5" shells through it, as I have a 10ga, which is appropriate for 3.5" shells.

3.5" shells do not improve your pattern, necessarily, on flying targets, mostly not. The "pattern" is 3 dimensional, not a flat wad of shot flying through the air. Physics dictates that only so much shot can fit into a certain bore diameter. Hence the reason the 10ga is much more appropriate for the 3.5" shells. The shot doesn't "string" as much and will give you a more dense pattern on a moving target due to a shorter shot string.

Stationary targets are a different thing all-together, like a turkey. Usually that turkey head will be in position long enough to take then entire length of the shot string. So, you can make effective use of the larger shot charge.

Personally, I shoot 3" steel thru my SBE II. I bought it because I loved the feel of it, and it has the capability to shoot any 12ga. shell, which gives me options in case I get in a pinch for ammo. That happened last year believe it or not. I had a last minute trip come up and I was not well supplied with ammo. All that was available locally was 3.5" shells. I used them, suffered the headaches and killed stuff just fine. I'll be giving those to a friend of mine who still thinks they kill suff deader. I got plenty of 3" shells on hand now. I'll save the 3.5" duty for the Browning Gold Lite 10ga. It works wonders on late season and conservation season geese.




Nice perspective. I like 3.5's on turkey, and maybe predators. Have not compared a lot of predator loads to know. My turkey patterns are better.

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Originally Posted by jimmyp
my only comment is that Randy Wakeman says the 3.5 inch 12 gauge shell made the 10 gauge obsolete. Randy used to post here but I think we ran him off.


Yeah, because of gems like that. crazy

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I guess if you can't stand the heat get out of the kitchen!


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Wakeman is just parroting drivel said by others. I doubt he ever spent time with a good 10 gauge.

Obviously you want the 3.5 and will not be deterred by sound advice, so have at it.


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Nothing wrong with a 3.5" shotgun. That doesn't mean you have to shoot 3.5" shells. It does give you the option though, as in my situation last year.

I wouldn't trade my SBEII for a truckload of anything else comparable out there, excep to sell them off and buy another SBEII. That's a little extreme, but I do love my Benelli. It's simple, light and does what it's supposed to. Easiest gun I ever had to maintain.

Bottom line is it's your money, get what YOU want. Opinions are like, well you know the story. wink

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Nothing wrong with getting a gun that handles a 3.5" shell. Forget all the advice, and actually spend some time at the pattern board with a variety of shells, then form your own opinion. I reload and have sent many hundreds of shells at a pattern board, thus have some opinions of my own.

FWIW, I'm in the camp of those who believe the 3.5" shell is hype. I haven't met a bird yet that needed more than a 2-3/4" shell.

I hunt ducks with a 7/8oz load of nice shot in my 12 gauge and geese with a 1-1/8oz load using 2-3/4" shells going a smoking 1300fps. Turkeys get a whole 1-1/4oz of lead in a 2-3/4" shell.

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a used auto 10 if you could find one reasonably would be a fun gun to use provided it did not weigh 9 pounds.


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Just to be clear. Those of you who are shooting 2 3/4" loads waterfowl (nice shot or whatever) loads, are you reloading them or buying them because $27-30+shipping for 10 shell is kind of expensive therefore negates the 2 3/4" being cheaper argument. Decent 25 shells of 3" and 3.5" steel can be had for cheaper and more readily available at store. Well, at least where I'm at.

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John101, Not sure were your at but you can purchase Federal premium steel 2 3/4" usally for 100.00 per flat (250 shells )
that would be shot sizes BB 2's 4's.


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I load Nice Shot myself. I'm not a man of means by any stretch of the imagination, and find that shooting the stuff doesn't break the bank. If you're poor, and fire hundreds of shots per year at waterfowl then maybe cheaper steel loads make sense- but maybe not if you factor in the cripples caused by pass shooting distant birds and/or simply missing because you have developed a flinch from shooting heavy loads that you are either ashamed to admit to or are too macho to admit to. The birds deserve to be killed as cleanly as we can manage.

It kills me to hear guys who own expensive shotguns cry about the cost of premium non steel non-tox loads also (not saying you do, but I have heard that particular rant). What's the cost of $20-30 worth of shells for a day's hunting, when you factor in all the other costs that we cheerfully ante up to engage in our sport- clothing, decoys, gas to get there and back, meals eaten out, boats, the trucks we need to haul our junk there and back, ad nauseum.

In the end, if more guys stepped up and made the switch to these (admittedly) expensive shells, prices would drop as sure as death and taxes. Simple law of supply and demand.


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I'm an avid fan of nice shot. Since I went to it, the most shells I've shot pursuing a limit is 16. They are pure devastation in a small, mildly recoiling package. Reloading it is the way to go. Even if one wanted to use steel, there are plenty of potent loads in the 2-3/4" shell.

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The weight sucks with a 10ga, but it soaks up the recoil quite nicely.

MY BPS10 has far less felt recoil than a 870 with 3" loads. Doesn't matter much in a blind, but noticeable in summer wearing a T-shirt. Gold 10 kicks even less...

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I had a BPS 10 years ago, wouldn't go down that road again, but it's not because it's a bad gun. Just doesn't work for me, and it's a pig to tote down a ditch sneaking snow geese. But they're hell for stout and reliable. Couple friends of mine use em and they do their job.

My Gold Lite 10 is sweet. I'd be hard pressed to choose between it and my SBEII. Not for a minute have I regretted laying out the cash for that one. As far as recoil, it's no more than a Kent 3" 1-1/8 1560fps load thru the SBE, and much better than a 3.5" thru the SBE. I can shoot the 10ga all day with no issues. A box of 3.5's thru the SBE = headache.

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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I load Nice Shot myself. I'm not a man of means by any stretch of the imagination, and find that shooting the stuff doesn't break the bank. If you're poor, and fire hundreds of shots per year at waterfowl then maybe cheaper steel loads make sense- but maybe not if you factor in the cripples caused by pass shooting distant birds and/or simply missing because you have developed a flinch from shooting heavy loads that you are either ashamed to admit to or are too macho to admit to. The birds deserve to be killed as cleanly as we can manage.
Excellent points..

Quote
It kills me to hear guys who own expensive shotguns cry about the cost of premium non steel non-tox loads also (not saying you do, but I have heard that particular rant). What's the cost of $20-30 worth of shells for a day's hunting, when you factor in all the other costs that we cheerfully ante up to engage in our sport- clothing, decoys, gas to get there and back, meals eaten out, boats, the trucks we need to haul our junk there and back, ad nauseum.
That's why I stick to trap/skeet and BUY ducks at the store.. I save TONS of money.. laugh laugh





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I use the 3.5 inch for turkeys,in our family we have a Remington 870,a Benelli SBE,a Benelli SBE II,and a Franchi 912. All of these guns have 3.5 inch chambers and all shoot denser patterns with 3.5 shells at turkey pattern targets.

But when I take any of them waterfowl hunting,I use 3 inch loads,the recoil of a series of 3.5 inch loads is too much for me.

But with only one or maybe two shots at a turkey,I want the densest load posible,and the 3.5 inch shells just have more shot in them and put more on the target in my tests.

If I wanted to shoot 3.5 inch loads at waterfowl,they would come from a gas operated 10 gauge to reduce felt recoil because of the heavier weight of the 10 gauge autoloaders.

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Originally Posted by ruraldoc

I use the 3.5 inch for turkeys,in our family we have a Remington 870,a Benelli SBE,a Benelli SBE II,and a Franchi 912. All of these guns have 3.5 inch chambers and all shoot denser patterns with 3.5 shells at turkey pattern targets.

But when I take any of them waterfowl hunting,I use 3 inch loads,the recoil of a series of 3.5 inch loads is too much for me.

But with only one or maybe two shots at a turkey,I want the densest load posible,and the 3.5 inch shells just have more shot in them and put more on the target in my tests.

If I wanted to shoot 3.5 inch loads at waterfowl,they would come from a gas operated 10 gauge to reduce felt recoil because of the heavier weight of the 10 gauge autoloaders.


I am with you.

I really do not care if the pattern is a little more uniform from a 3-D perspective; the shot is traveling supersonic out of the barrel. The shot string is not very long either. People are talking like it is ten feet long with a 3.5 shell and six inches long with a 2.75 shell. What is so bad about a few fliers also? There are 225 #6 shot per ounce. A 3.5 shell shoots 1/2 ounce more shot at the same velocity vs a 2.75 shell; that is 112 more #6 shot than a 2.75 and 56 than a 3 inch.

For turkeys and predators the 3.5 is superior to 3 and 2.75 in the same chokes shooting lead; but there needs to be more 3.5 predator loads. I would not want the recoil for upland and small game hunting due to the number of shots taken, and that amount of shot is not desired for these species. That number of shot is desired for turkeys and predators past 35 yards or so.

On a moving target that is moving around 40mph it is moving about 59 fps. If the shot has slowed to 900 fps it is still moving over 15 times faster than the target. That means if the target moves 1 inch the shot moves 15 inches. From a 3-D perspective I do not think that a pattern is much longer (or deeper)if any longer than 15 inches, so the target could move 1 huge inch from the time the most forward shot reaches it until the most rearward reaches it, so what.

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somewhere I read that the shot string was over 10 feet long, not that it matters on a coyote or turkey. Nothing objective other than opinions it seems one way or another, the 3.5 must give a denser pattern so it must give a few feet more range, that most don't like them. A 3 inch chamber is probably most useful it seems.


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Old, but relevant:

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/articleindex/articles/312inch1/GA1235K1.html


Good arrticle here: (From Eastern Woods and Waters) (Bold at end is mine)

Steel Shot Under The Microscope

Care is Called for With Loads, Chokes and Range
Shotgun shells loaded with non-toxic tungsten or bismuth are clearly more deadly that those loaded with steel-yet most waterfowl hunters continue to use steel, the lower cost being a factor. So does that mean we have to be out there risking crippled birds?

More differing opinions have been expressed, and more BS has been printed regarding the use of steel shot than just about anything else that I can think of.

To determine for myself the facts about shotgun shells loaded with steel, I conducted a series of pattern tests spread over two years. I determined that by selecting the proper load and choke combination, steel is more than adequate for almost all waterfowl hunting.

In these tests I used Beretta AL390, Browning Gold and Remington Model 11-87 semi-automatic 12-gauge shotguns, each chambered for 3-inch shells.

I also conducted tests using two 10-gauge Remington Model SP-10 shotguns, and two pump-action 12-gauge shotguns with fixed full chokes and chambered for 2 3/4-inch shells.

Most shotgun pattern testing is carried out at 40 yards-yet waterfowlers often shoot at decoying ducks at ranges of 15 to 35 yards, or do their pass shooting at 45 yards or more. To find out more about steel, 33 1/3 yards and 50 yards were selected as test ranges. For these tests the standard 30-inch in diameter circle was used to measure the pattern results. The shorter range 33 1/3 yard tests were soon dropped as all the 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 ounce loads tested proved more than adequate at that distance.

It's commonly accepted that to assure that a bird will be hit in a vital area, three to five pellets must hit the bird with sufficient energy so as to penetrate the vitals. So, how many pellets must we have in a 30-inch in diameter circle to meet this requirement?

The more pellets in the shotgun shell, the better the odds of three to five pellets hitting the bird. Thus, in my tests I used only 3-inch, 12-gauge loads containing 1 3/8 ounces of steel shot at a velocity of 1265 fps. Due to cost and time factors, complete tests were conducted only with loads of BB, No.1, No.2, and No.3 steel. Loads of steel BBBs were also tried, but are only presented for the Beretta AL390 and the 10-gauge Remington SP10. Other tests may indicate BBBs are the way to go, but that was not my conclusion. In testing I found the 1 3/8-ounce loads of BBBs lack sufficient pattern density at 50 yards with all 12-gauge guns tested. A minimum of five shells were fired with each gun, choke and shot size tested, and, if there appeared to be a wide variation in the count for those five, a further five were fired to ascertain the truth of the pattern. While manufacturers like to claim their steel shotgun shell loads are superior to the competition, in these tests shells from all three major manufactures were used, with no clear winner in terms of performance. Perhaps a more elaborate test would show differences.

Only the standard chokes that came with each shotgun were tested. The results are contained in the accompanying graphs.



Looking at the 50-yard, Beretta AL390 tests, we see that with steel BBs between Modified, (53 pellets) and Improved Modified and Full (57 pellets each) there is only a 4-pellet spread, indicating that larger steel pellets are not greatly affected by tighter chokes. The same applies to No. 1 steel. Yet in the chart it can be seen that the smaller diameter No. 2 steel pellets are more affected by the tighter chokes. In the case of No. 3 steel, the full choke is now too full, and results in a decline in pattern density.

Note also that at 50 yards the AL390 Improved Cylinder choke using No. 3 steel will put 92 pellets into the 30-inch circle. Does this work?

For several years our duck blind faced open water, across which, almost precisely 50 yards away, the open water gave way to cattails. Time after time blacks or mallards would fly along that dividing line between open water and cattails, and, time after time, would come down dead when hit with the 13/8 -ounce load of No. 3 steel fired from the improved cylinder choke of the Beretta AL390. Several years prior to these tests, back about 1994, using the then common recommendation of using larger steel shot sizes and more open choke, my hunting buddy and I both used modified chokes in our Remington 11-87s, and 13/8-ounce loads of No. 1 steel. Using this combination we would frequently knock birds down at 45 yards or more; yet almost half would hit the water wounded. The Remington 11-87 chart clearly indicates why this happened. At that point we were not too happy with steel, a common experience for those who use the wrong choke or steel shot load combination.

The charts for the Browning Gold and the Remington 11-87 speak for themselves. As can be seen, the Remington full choke is obviously too full for both No. 2 and No. 3 steel, leading to the belief that some manufactures are or were making chokes strictly based on the premise that most owners are primarily lead shot users. As can be seen in the charts, No. 2 steel is not a good choice for ducks in the Beretta except with a full choke, yet it's fine with a modified choke in the Remington 11-87.

As hunters, we should demand that the old choke designations such as improved cylinder and modified be discarded. Instead, each manufacturer should be required to stamp the internal dimensions of their barrel on each barrel manufactured, and the internal constriction on each and every choke sold. To this end I have included the internal dimensions of each and every barrel and choke tested. Only in this manner can certain conclusions be derived. A second AL390 also tested had identical barrel and choke dimensions to those listed, and gave similar results, as did a Beretta Model 686EL over/under with barrels that checked out at .722 inch. Chokes were within .001 of the AL390 chokes.

Two Remington pump action Model 870 shotguns chambered for the 12-gauge, 3-inch shell and equipped with interchangeable chokes, were also checked, Both had almost identical dimensions and similar pattern densities as compared to the Model 11-87s. Note that dimensions can vary .001 or more and that some Remington barrels checked out at .729 inch. This small variation has no significant impact on the final results obtained. Indeed, we should keep in mind that my measuring devices may not be totally precise.

In the case of the two Remington 10-gauge Model SP-10s tested, both the 26-inch barrel and the 30-inch barrel had identical internal dimensions. Based on the results as indicated in the graph, I suspect that an after-market choke with about .022 inches of constriction would be about right for the SP10, 10-gauge, and would give good duck killing patterns at 60 yards with No. 2s. At that range No. 2s still have 2.2 foot pounds of energy per pellet. Note also that at 60 yards, with the chokes tested, BB meets the 50-pellet minimum for Canada geese, and still has 5.5 foot pounds of energy (Fig.1) per pellet. Also tested were two older fixed full choked shotguns chambered for the 12-gauge 2 3/4 inch shell, a Remington Model 870 and Winchester Model 1200. With maximum 1 1/4-ounce loads of steel, the results were so close to one another that I have included only one graph that is valid for both. Hitting with the tighter pattern at the closer ranges may be the only negative. For the sea duck hunter who needs No. 2 shot, an older, somewhat beat up and rusty 12-gauge with a fixed full choke just might be the way to go.

I have not included tests with No. 4 steel, yet No. 4 steel is my preferred steel shot size along with a modified choke when hunting smaller ducks such as Ringnecks.

Before steel, my usual 12-gauge duck load for the season consisted of a 1 1/2-ounce load of No. 4 lead and a modified or full choke. Yet, on opening day, when the ducks were decoying close, we usually used improved cylinder chokes in our 12-gauges, and a 1 1/4-ounce load of lead 7 �s. This combination proved absolutely deadly out to 40 yards. On opening day of 1997 we used 12-gauge guns loaded with an 1�-ounce load of No. 6 steel, and improved cylinder chokes. Our shooting was held to 35 yards or less, and killed stone dead almost all the birds we shot at, including both mallards and blacks. Often, at the shorter ranges, wings were broken also.

Later that same week, when using this combination, I swung on a pintail but, by the time I had fired, the bird was at a full 41 yards (measured), yet came down dead. Out of curiosity, an autopsy in the blind revealed that many of the No. 6 steel pellets had barely made in through the heavy feathers, with several still visible, lodged in the flesh next to the skin. Yet the duck was dead, and an examination revealed several wounds to the head and neck. And that is the secret of No. 6 steel. The 1 1/4 ounce load sends out a sleet storm of steel containing 396 pellets, the result being that at 35 yards or less almost always several of these pellets will hit the vulnerable head and neck.

The foot pounds needed for each shot taken can vary widely. After considerable sifting through the data available and field data gathered first hand, I have concluded that two foot pounds is about right for mallards, and five foot pounds for Canada geese. Note that, at 50 yards, No. 3 steel at a rated velocity of 1265 feet per second meets the 2-foot pound requirement for ducks, and that BB meets the 5-foot pound requirement for geese. (Refer Fig. 1.) This chart is based on data supplied by the ammunition manufacturers plus that from other sources, and assumes that the foot pounds of energy decreases in a linear fashion.

As a hunter and writer, the late Don Zutz once wrote: "The older I get and the more birds I clean, the more I realize head/neck and wing-bone hits are the most important in bring down a bird. Pellets to the rear half of the body cavity will often leave birds to sail away to die in some brushy or swampy corner." I'm inclined to agree with Zutz, and, for that very reason take great care to set up blind and decoys in reference to wind direction so as to prevent the need to take tail end shots at departing waterfowl after the shooting starts. Having walked the 50 yards to the pattern board and back several hundred times, I have a good understanding that 50 yards is a very long distance to be shooting at waterfowl. I have carried a range finder, first the split image type, and then those using a laser, to the marshes for almost 30 years in order to measure actual shooting distances. Yet not one in 500 waterfowl hunters does this. Without a rangefinder, accurately ascertaining shooting distances is very iffy, with errors of 30 per cent or more very common. No. 3 steel at a velocity of no more that 1330 fps is my current and most often used duck load. I usually use an improved cylinder choke, but may switch to modified if the need arises. For geese, BB steel, and modified choke. For reduced recoil, use the 1 1/4-ounce steel shot loads at a velocity of 1330 fps or less. With a 1 1/4-ounce load, the charts, at least in theory, are valid for 45 yards. I have no use for the 3 1/2 inch 12-gauge shell, having fired enough boxes of these to know there is no pleasure involved in pulling the trigger, and a whole bunch of negatives. Nor am I much enthused about the current rash of high velocity, low payload steel shot loads. At 35 yards or less they look impressive as the feathers fly and the bird staggers in the air, yet hunters are advised to test these loads at 50 yards before coming to any decision. My conclusion is that ammunition companies have found it's much cheaper to add a few grains of powder to a shotgun shell instead of an extra one-eighth ounce of steel shot! Hunting waterfowl and shooting a shotgun should be a pleasurable activity, not one where the shooter has to endure significant punishment. The current crop of 3 1/2 and 3-inch high velocity steel loads have levels of recoil that exceeds by a wide margin what a waterfowl hunter can tolerate without having their shooting skills deteriorate. Provided the right load and choke combination is selected, the limiting factor in 99 per cent of waterfowl hunting is not steel shot, but rather, the hunter, and his or her ability to point the shotgun accurately.

Last edited by Redneck; 01/27/12.

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Originally Posted by Redneck
Old, but relevant:

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/articleindex/articles/312inch1/GA1235K1.html


Good arrticle here: (From Eastern Woods and Waters) (Bold at end is mine)

Steel Shot Under The Microscope

Care is Called for With Loads, Chokes and Range
Shotgun shells loaded with non-toxic tungsten or bismuth are clearly more deadly that those loaded with steel-yet most waterfowl hunters continue to use steel, the lower cost being a factor. So does that mean we have to be out there risking crippled birds?

More differing opinions have been expressed, and more BS has been printed regarding the use of steel shot than just about anything else that I can think of.

To determine for myself the facts about shotgun shells loaded with steel, I conducted a series of pattern tests spread over two years. I determined that by selecting the proper load and choke combination, steel is more than adequate for almost all waterfowl hunting.

In these tests I used Beretta AL390, Browning Gold and Remington Model 11-87 semi-automatic 12-gauge shotguns, each chambered for 3-inch shells.

I also conducted tests using two 10-gauge Remington Model SP-10 shotguns, and two pump-action 12-gauge shotguns with fixed full chokes and chambered for 2 3/4-inch shells.

Most shotgun pattern testing is carried out at 40 yards-yet waterfowlers often shoot at decoying ducks at ranges of 15 to 35 yards, or do their pass shooting at 45 yards or more. To find out more about steel, 33 1/3 yards and 50 yards were selected as test ranges. For these tests the standard 30-inch in diameter circle was used to measure the pattern results. The shorter range 33 1/3 yard tests were soon dropped as all the 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 ounce loads tested proved more than adequate at that distance.

It's commonly accepted that to assure that a bird will be hit in a vital area, three to five pellets must hit the bird with sufficient energy so as to penetrate the vitals. So, how many pellets must we have in a 30-inch in diameter circle to meet this requirement?

The more pellets in the shotgun shell, the better the odds of three to five pellets hitting the bird. Thus, in my tests I used only 3-inch, 12-gauge loads containing 1 3/8 ounces of steel shot at a velocity of 1265 fps. Due to cost and time factors, complete tests were conducted only with loads of BB, No.1, No.2, and No.3 steel. Loads of steel BBBs were also tried, but are only presented for the Beretta AL390 and the 10-gauge Remington SP10. Other tests may indicate BBBs are the way to go, but that was not my conclusion. In testing I found the 1 3/8-ounce loads of BBBs lack sufficient pattern density at 50 yards with all 12-gauge guns tested. A minimum of five shells were fired with each gun, choke and shot size tested, and, if there appeared to be a wide variation in the count for those five, a further five were fired to ascertain the truth of the pattern. While manufacturers like to claim their steel shotgun shell loads are superior to the competition, in these tests shells from all three major manufactures were used, with no clear winner in terms of performance. Perhaps a more elaborate test would show differences.

Only the standard chokes that came with each shotgun were tested. The results are contained in the accompanying graphs.



Looking at the 50-yard, Beretta AL390 tests, we see that with steel BBs between Modified, (53 pellets) and Improved Modified and Full (57 pellets each) there is only a 4-pellet spread, indicating that larger steel pellets are not greatly affected by tighter chokes. The same applies to No. 1 steel. Yet in the chart it can be seen that the smaller diameter No. 2 steel pellets are more affected by the tighter chokes. In the case of No. 3 steel, the full choke is now too full, and results in a decline in pattern density.

Note also that at 50 yards the AL390 Improved Cylinder choke using No. 3 steel will put 92 pellets into the 30-inch circle. Does this work?

For several years our duck blind faced open water, across which, almost precisely 50 yards away, the open water gave way to cattails. Time after time blacks or mallards would fly along that dividing line between open water and cattails, and, time after time, would come down dead when hit with the 13/8 -ounce load of No. 3 steel fired from the improved cylinder choke of the Beretta AL390. Several years prior to these tests, back about 1994, using the then common recommendation of using larger steel shot sizes and more open choke, my hunting buddy and I both used modified chokes in our Remington 11-87s, and 13/8-ounce loads of No. 1 steel. Using this combination we would frequently knock birds down at 45 yards or more; yet almost half would hit the water wounded. The Remington 11-87 chart clearly indicates why this happened. At that point we were not too happy with steel, a common experience for those who use the wrong choke or steel shot load combination.

The charts for the Browning Gold and the Remington 11-87 speak for themselves. As can be seen, the Remington full choke is obviously too full for both No. 2 and No. 3 steel, leading to the belief that some manufactures are or were making chokes strictly based on the premise that most owners are primarily lead shot users. As can be seen in the charts, No. 2 steel is not a good choice for ducks in the Beretta except with a full choke, yet it's fine with a modified choke in the Remington 11-87.

As hunters, we should demand that the old choke designations such as improved cylinder and modified be discarded. Instead, each manufacturer should be required to stamp the internal dimensions of their barrel on each barrel manufactured, and the internal constriction on each and every choke sold. To this end I have included the internal dimensions of each and every barrel and choke tested. Only in this manner can certain conclusions be derived. A second AL390 also tested had identical barrel and choke dimensions to those listed, and gave similar results, as did a Beretta Model 686EL over/under with barrels that checked out at .722 inch. Chokes were within .001 of the AL390 chokes.

Two Remington pump action Model 870 shotguns chambered for the 12-gauge, 3-inch shell and equipped with interchangeable chokes, were also checked, Both had almost identical dimensions and similar pattern densities as compared to the Model 11-87s. Note that dimensions can vary .001 or more and that some Remington barrels checked out at .729 inch. This small variation has no significant impact on the final results obtained. Indeed, we should keep in mind that my measuring devices may not be totally precise.

In the case of the two Remington 10-gauge Model SP-10s tested, both the 26-inch barrel and the 30-inch barrel had identical internal dimensions. Based on the results as indicated in the graph, I suspect that an after-market choke with about .022 inches of constriction would be about right for the SP10, 10-gauge, and would give good duck killing patterns at 60 yards with No. 2s. At that range No. 2s still have 2.2 foot pounds of energy per pellet. Note also that at 60 yards, with the chokes tested, BB meets the 50-pellet minimum for Canada geese, and still has 5.5 foot pounds of energy (Fig.1) per pellet. Also tested were two older fixed full choked shotguns chambered for the 12-gauge 2 3/4 inch shell, a Remington Model 870 and Winchester Model 1200. With maximum 1 1/4-ounce loads of steel, the results were so close to one another that I have included only one graph that is valid for both. Hitting with the tighter pattern at the closer ranges may be the only negative. For the sea duck hunter who needs No. 2 shot, an older, somewhat beat up and rusty 12-gauge with a fixed full choke just might be the way to go.

I have not included tests with No. 4 steel, yet No. 4 steel is my preferred steel shot size along with a modified choke when hunting smaller ducks such as Ringnecks.

Before steel, my usual 12-gauge duck load for the season consisted of a 1 1/2-ounce load of No. 4 lead and a modified or full choke. Yet, on opening day, when the ducks were decoying close, we usually used improved cylinder chokes in our 12-gauges, and a 1 1/4-ounce load of lead 7 �s. This combination proved absolutely deadly out to 40 yards. On opening day of 1997 we used 12-gauge guns loaded with an 1�-ounce load of No. 6 steel, and improved cylinder chokes. Our shooting was held to 35 yards or less, and killed stone dead almost all the birds we shot at, including both mallards and blacks. Often, at the shorter ranges, wings were broken also.

Later that same week, when using this combination, I swung on a pintail but, by the time I had fired, the bird was at a full 41 yards (measured), yet came down dead. Out of curiosity, an autopsy in the blind revealed that many of the No. 6 steel pellets had barely made in through the heavy feathers, with several still visible, lodged in the flesh next to the skin. Yet the duck was dead, and an examination revealed several wounds to the head and neck. And that is the secret of No. 6 steel. The 1 1/4 ounce load sends out a sleet storm of steel containing 396 pellets, the result being that at 35 yards or less almost always several of these pellets will hit the vulnerable head and neck.

The foot pounds needed for each shot taken can vary widely. After considerable sifting through the data available and field data gathered first hand, I have concluded that two foot pounds is about right for mallards, and five foot pounds for Canada geese. Note that, at 50 yards, No. 3 steel at a rated velocity of 1265 feet per second meets the 2-foot pound requirement for ducks, and that BB meets the 5-foot pound requirement for geese. (Refer Fig. 1.) This chart is based on data supplied by the ammunition manufacturers plus that from other sources, and assumes that the foot pounds of energy decreases in a linear fashion.

As a hunter and writer, the late Don Zutz once wrote: "The older I get and the more birds I clean, the more I realize head/neck and wing-bone hits are the most important in bring down a bird. Pellets to the rear half of the body cavity will often leave birds to sail away to die in some brushy or swampy corner." I'm inclined to agree with Zutz, and, for that very reason take great care to set up blind and decoys in reference to wind direction so as to prevent the need to take tail end shots at departing waterfowl after the shooting starts. Having walked the 50 yards to the pattern board and back several hundred times, I have a good understanding that 50 yards is a very long distance to be shooting at waterfowl. I have carried a range finder, first the split image type, and then those using a laser, to the marshes for almost 30 years in order to measure actual shooting distances. Yet not one in 500 waterfowl hunters does this. Without a rangefinder, accurately ascertaining shooting distances is very iffy, with errors of 30 per cent or more very common. No. 3 steel at a velocity of no more that 1330 fps is my current and most often used duck load. I usually use an improved cylinder choke, but may switch to modified if the need arises. For geese, BB steel, and modified choke. For reduced recoil, use the 1 1/4-ounce steel shot loads at a velocity of 1330 fps or less. With a 1 1/4-ounce load, the charts, at least in theory, are valid for 45 yards. I have no use for the 3 1/2 inch 12-gauge shell, having fired enough boxes of these to know there is no pleasure involved in pulling the trigger, and a whole bunch of negatives. Nor am I much enthused about the current rash of high velocity, low payload steel shot loads. At 35 yards or less they look impressive as the feathers fly and the bird staggers in the air, yet hunters are advised to test these loads at 50 yards before coming to any decision. My conclusion is that ammunition companies have found it's much cheaper to add a few grains of powder to a shotgun shell instead of an extra one-eighth ounce of steel shot! Hunting waterfowl and shooting a shotgun should be a pleasurable activity, not one where the shooter has to endure significant punishment. The current crop of 3 1/2 and 3-inch high velocity steel loads have levels of recoil that exceeds by a wide margin what a waterfowl hunter can tolerate without having their shooting skills deteriorate. Provided the right load and choke combination is selected, the limiting factor in 99 per cent of waterfowl hunting is not steel shot, but rather, the hunter, and his or her ability to point the shotgun accurately.



Good read.

1 1/4 oz of steel shot has a significantly higher number of shot than lead though.

I think that a true "shotgunner" and a turkey/predator hunter are two completely different things, along with their guns and loads due to the game movement.

Seems consistant that didicated turkey/predator hunters like 3.5's and true shotgunners like 2.75's.

Pick your game then gun...

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I have never had a turkey or a coyote laugh and or not die after being shot by 2-3/4" shells. If you buy into the marketing gimmickry thats great.


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Not saying 2.75 shells will not kill either. Patterning both 3.5 and 2.75 turkey and predator loads at 40 yards gives a significantly better pattern for the 3.5's, thus extending the effective range which was the OP's question.

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I am still up in the air about it, there are for and against arguments. One of my buds has a 3.5 inch mooseberg auto that patterns very nicely with 3.5 inch turkey shells, the other bud has a SBE2 with a gobblin thunder and it shoots patterns with a big bare spot near the center with a couple of different 3.5 inch turkey loads, so he is using 3 inch shells. My old m1 benelli 18.5 inch barreled tactical gun with a no name turkey choke shoots 3 inch rem #5's very well but now I just have to have a camo gun..then the damn 18,5 inch barrel is too close to my ears these days.


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For wingshooting, and turkey shooting isn't in that category, I think even a 3" 12 gauge load cuts your range a good bit. Not ballistically, but in the poor shooting that tends to accompany a gun of such ilk. Agree w/ others here, 2 3/4" shells are plenty adequate in the 12 gauge.

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Never have liked the Roman Candles, just plain hurts. Perhaps for goose, but 2 3/4 and 3" have worked for me for many years. I would guess that one would get some more range but at the cost of ammo and recoil.

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I don't really think the reasoning to jump from a 3" to a 3 1/2" is solely range. will you gain some range? yes. usually in the 5-7 yard range but the big reason to switch is MORE BB'S. More bb's results in higher odds of hitting and killing your bird and allows a little more margin for error.


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Originally Posted by buckthumper
I don't really think the reasoning to jump from a 3" to a 3 1/2" is solely range. will you gain some range? yes. usually in the 5-7 yard range but the big reason to switch is MORE BB'S. More bb's results in higher odds of hitting and killing your bird and allows a little more margin for error.
.... i.e., sloppy hunters can still down birds??.. laugh (just kiddin')


But seriously, keep in mind that for years, many duck hunters were very successful with 20 ga shotguns.. Ignoring the lead vs. steel thing for a minute, a shotgunner must know his firearm and it's limits - then go hunting accordingly..

On a similar note, a majority of skeet shooters use a 12 or 20, due to 'more bbs' in the air - and that can help offset a slight error in lead.. But put a .410 in an expert's hands and he'll beat you rather handily.. It's all about lead, knowing range, and maintaining proper form..

BTW, best score I got in skeet with my .410 is 23.. Grrrrr.. laugh laugh


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We have guys in our goose pits who regularly use 20's, 28's, and .410's. They are cool customers who pick their shots carefully and kill as many geese as the rest of us, if not more. They don't shoot steel- Nice Shot and ITX rules their roost. Like Redneck said, knowing your gun, and it's and your limitations- and having the will power to act accordingly- is the name of the game.


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I once fell alseep @ 20 on the skeet range or I would have shot 25! smile


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Many have fallen in love with the really large cases on the logic of more larger size pellets, required since the mandate of non-tox shot.

With the advent of bismuth, and other more dense substitutes for lead, the long shell argument loses strength.

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I cannot agree with your logic, if you go dense shot, then a 3.5 has more of it! I do not disagree that the 3.5 may not be the cats meow but more of a better thing is usually better unless its a better arse kickin.


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If all 2.75", 3", 3.5" shells were loaded to their max specs, I'm pretty sure we can all agreed that 3.5" has more power and range (from more shots).

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Originally Posted by jimmyp
I cannot agree with your logic, if you go dense shot, then a 3.5 has more of it! I do not disagree that the 3.5 may not be the cats meow but more of a better thing is usually better unless its a better arse kickin.


That's precisely the point: you don't need that much, because it's heavier for volume (i.e., sheds velocity slower, more terminal velocity). More is definitely not more in this case.

"More of the good thing" (shot), also brings more bad things such as recoil, over confidence (lots more shot makes up for poor wingshooting), a heavy gun that handles like a 2x4.

Ducks and geese can be killed efficiently inside of 40 yards with 2 3/4" field loads with 1 1/4 oz of shot. Beyond that, 95% of hunters have no business shooting at them, and most who have the skill are wise enough not to attempt such shots on wild birds.

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More practice that is correctly done, a good mount, strong visual contact with the target, a shotgun that fits reasonably and has some life, having confidence in your ability that comes from experience will always be more productive than wishing, thinking or hoping extra BBs or 5 extra yards will turn the tide.

One day I watched a group of guys consistently hammer Geese with 10 Gauges at ranges I thought were impossible. They had all of the above, and if they hadn't a pound of shot wouldn't have helped them.

Addition: I watched and saw what they were doing, and finally walked over to their blind and asked if I could just sit and observe. They said sure. They were smooth, calm and deliberate while not being mechanical. They were knocking Geese out of the air at 60 to 70yards overhead consistently. Some came down dead, the crash probably killed some, some had busted wings and their Labs made short work of most retrieves.

The leads they were putting on Birds were beyond what most of us have ever seen. They were killing Birds with skill born of experience and know how of handling a shotgun. Without which extra shot would have meant nothing.

If one has the skill then there is an advantage. If not, there is none.

A good Dog makes most of think we are better with a shotgun then we really
are. wink And while we relive the great shots we made that day, he or she is usually in the kennel, tired and perhaps cold and wet trying to catch some well deserved zzzz while bouncing around in the truck bed.

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Originally Posted by GF1
Ducks and geese can be killed efficiently inside of 40 yards with 2 3/4" field loads with 1 1/4 oz of shot.


Back in the days of lead, my dad was a pretty avid trapshooter, and reloader. Come duck season, we'd just dump bigger shot (5s or so) in to the bottle, and crank out a bunch of 1 1/8 oz loads in AA hulls, just like he used for trap shooting with 8 shot, without changing a thing other than shot size.

I grew up shooting ducks and geese with those loads, and never knew that I was apparently being handicapped with such anemic, short, loads.

Substitute any of the number of the various new non-toxic materials available today for our old lead, and I go on shooting those old 2 3/4" loads happily. smile

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regards turkeys or coyote's I am thinking the 3.5 would be best for most everything else 23/4 has done fine for me as well.


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