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I would try the kroil first. if you can get a few inches above the bullet filled with the oil and push a tight jag at it, it will try to hydraulically force oil around the case. do not hammer on the bullet, it is possible to set it off. the oil trick is nearly free and safe. just be sure there is something to catch the oil once it clears the chamber.
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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I dont have a clue on how to remove the extractor
Thanks,
Bob
Too many calibers and not enough time for the working man to hunt with them all.
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Brownells sells a stuck case extractor. Works as a slide hammer and a collet. I have one and it works !!! Made for the trouble you are in. I found putting the action in the freezer will make it a slick operation to extract the live round. The collets are made in differnt sizes for the case heads. I think mine was about 100 bucks when I got it. Much much safer than being infront of a loaded gun, beating on it.........
Hang on tight !
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Why in the freezer, doesnt it "shrink" the barrel and make it tighter instead of heat to expand it?
Thanks,
Bob
Too many calibers and not enough time for the working man to hunt with them all.
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Thinking of soaking with Kroil oil, then a rod down the barrel and a bar clamp on the rod at the muzzle end and on the reciever end or butt plate and do a slow squeese.
Thanks,
Bob
Too many calibers and not enough time for the working man to hunt with them all.
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Funny thing is the round that is stuck made up from 7mm RM brass mikes out at .284 OS diam on the neck after the bullets are inserted, the same as some new 257WM Hordany brassI loaded up tonight.
Thanks,
Bob
Too many calibers and not enough time for the working man to hunt with them all.
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Why in the freezer, doesnt it "shrink" the barrel and make it tighter instead of heat to expand it? The brass will contract more than the steel
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Not trying to be smart but.........Thats a loaded gun. Why would you put yourself or any part of you in front of it ? Even with the bolt out of the action. If it were to go BANG (dont you think for a second that it cant). I wouldent want to be any wheres near it. The case extractor is the only safe way to remove it yourself with out pulling the barrel. Snyper is correct. The brass will contract a good bit before the steel will.
Hang on tight !
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Funny thing is the round that is stuck made up from 7mm RM brass mikes out at .284 OS diam on the neck after the bullets are inserted, the same as some new 257WM Hordany brassI loaded up tonight. Prolly the shoulder is jammed in there, not the neck. You didn't mention what went on when you closed the bolt. Guessing the round slipped in OK until the brass met the shoulder portion of the chamber? You must have pushed that bolt pretty tight and locked down? It must be tight as a tick if you flared out the rod on it. can't imagine there is a lot of surface area holding the brass in there considering the Weatherby neck design.
Faith and love of others knows no mileage nor bounds. That's simply the way it is.
dogzapper
After the game is over, the king and the pawn go into the same box.
Italian Proverb
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Let us know the outcome of this soap opera. powdr
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I'm courious to see how heating the barrel would work !
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How about compressed air?
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Powdr,
here is the plan, soak in it in Kroil oil from the muzzle for a day, into the freezer over night, then a heat gun on the barrel/chamber area, with a bar clamp squeesing a brass rod from the muzzle and the other end of the action, the bar clamp has a turn screw on it for tension and just a slow steady push.
Thanks,
Bob
Too many calibers and not enough time for the working man to hunt with them all.
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Be sure to wear hearing protection !
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I have a stuck round in the chamber of my 257WM Vanguard. The bolt is open and I tried tapping an alluminum cleaning rod on it from the muzzle but just flared the end of the rod. I should have put a tip in it in hind sight. Any suggestions? I am think a piece of 3/16 steel rod and then tap on it from the muzzle. Loaded round? I wouldn't do that.. All that'll happen is you'll push the bullet deeper into the case and compress the powder.. You have a very dangerous situation there.... BEST thing to do is take it to a smith who can remove the barrel and lever the case out.. Failing that, there are other things the smith can do but at least they'll be safer than what you're contemplating.. ONce upon a time, a gunsmith's customer did not set the headspace right on a loaded round, he had the bolt half closed on the loaded round. The loaded ammunition had been used on another benchrest rifle, but did not fit this benchrest rifle of the same caliber. So, he jammed a cleaning rod down the barrel and tried to tap out the loaded round and KA POW! The cleaning rod became a missle and killed his wife that was doing laundry on the other side of the room. There is a learning curve when it comes to setting a full length sizer to size brass properly, which is the cause of this problem...an education usually costs money. Another lesson, when the bolt is hard to close, DO NOT FORCE IT TO CLOSE!!! There is some very good news on this problem, most of us only have to learn this lesson once. I would fill the barrel full of oil, and if the bolt will not open, then take it to a gunsmith to have the barrel removed.
Last edited by keith; 02/12/12.
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ONce upon a time, a gunsmith's customer did not set the headspace right on a loaded round, he had the bolt half closed on the loaded round. The loaded ammunition had been used on another benchrest rifle, but did not fit this benchrest rifle of the same caliber. So, he jammed a cleaning rod down the barrel and tried to tap out the loaded round and KA POW! The cleaning rod became a missle and killed his wife that was doing laundry on the other side of the room.
Do you have a link for this?
It's not that Liberals are unwilling to listen to another point of view, they are just simply amazed that another one exists.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I have a stuck round in the chamber of my 257WM Vanguard. The bolt is open and I tried tapping an alluminum cleaning rod on it from the muzzle but just flared the end of the rod. I should have put a tip in it in hind sight. Any suggestions? I am think a piece of 3/16 steel rod and then tap on it from the muzzle. Loaded round? I wouldn't do that.. All that'll happen is you'll push the bullet deeper into the case and compress the powder.. You have a very dangerous situation there.... BEST thing to do is take it to a smith who can remove the barrel and lever the case out.. Failing that, there are other things the smith can do but at least they'll be safer than what you're contemplating.. ONce upon a time, a gunsmith's customer did not set the headspace right on a loaded round, he had the bolt half closed on the loaded round. The loaded ammunition had been used on another benchrest rifle, but did not fit this benchrest rifle of the same caliber. So, he jammed a cleaning rod down the barrel and tried to tap out the loaded round and KA POW! The cleaning rod became a missle and killed his wife that was doing laundry on the other side of the room. There is a learning curve when it comes to setting a full length sizer to size brass properly, which is the cause of this problem...an education usually costs money. Another lesson, when the bolt is hard to close, DO NOT FORCE IT TO CLOSE!!! There is some very good news on this problem, most of us only have to learn this lesson once. I would fill the barrel full of oil, and if the bolt will not open, then take it to a gunsmith to have the barrel removed. One way to get rid of a wife he didn't want, wonder how long it took him to think this one up.
A Doe walks out of the woods today and says, that is the last time I'm going to do that for Two Bucks.
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Campfire Ranger
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I was reading an early 70's gun rag the other night and there was a story in there about a fatality due to a stuck round.
Two guys with a stuck 243 put some welding rods down the barrel and then proceeded to push the muzzle with the rods in it against their basement wall. The cartridge discharged and drove the 243 case into the aorta of the man behind the rifle, killing him.
A stuck cartridge is never good but when you mix in abundant stupidity it can get downright dangerous.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Stop putting sticks, rods, oil, deep freezer, or anything down your barrel!! Most times when these types of repairs came into our shop the barrel is a total loss. The extracting of the case from the breech end is easy if you have the proper tool. It is an extractor in two sections or split down the middle and a Phillips head bolt to tighten around the rim like a 99% extractor. A prize bar is used to slowly remore the case. It has never failed in 45 yrs. I have posted this tool on the internet on different forums and I don't know if anyone has made their own tool. Brownell's sell a similar tool. ![[Linked Image]](http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Shell_puller_1.jpg)
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Campfire Tracker
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I was reading an early 70's gun rag the other night and there was a story in there about a fatality due to a stuck round.
Two guys with a stuck 243 put some welding rods down the barrel and then proceeded to push the muzzle with the rods in it against their basement wall. The cartridge discharged and drove the 243 case into the aorta of the man behind the rifle, killing him.
A stuck cartridge is never good but when you mix in abundant stupidity it can get downright dangerous. I remember reading about the incident. If it ever happens to me, I will happily pay a gunsmith to remove the round in question. Simply another good reason to never force anything when working with firearms.
molɔ̀ːn labé skýla
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