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frogman43 had a Dozier knife that needed a tune up so I offered. I have not done a hollow ground blade yet, but didn't expect any issues. I did however have a very hard time getting the front section of the blade scary sharp like the rest of the blade.
I am thinking between the hollow grind and blade positioning, the geometry gets a little off or loose at the front 25% of the cutting edge.
I did get the front to shave, but not as sharp as the rest and I did a do over twice more.
Or it could be that evil D2??????

Anyone else have hollow ground experience with Edge Pro????

Tim


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should sharpen like any other knife.Only diff on a hollow grind the blade is thinner behind the edge. Flat grind gets thick behind the edge after time and then you have yourself a hatchet.




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I had a Dozier fillet once in D2 ,I could not get it sharp. I sent it to a bud who uses edgepro exclusively.He got it a little better,but the same thing,the problem spot was out at the tip. I sold that knife off.

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It takes a bit of practice to get used to the edge pro, get the thinner stones vs. the wide ones, and you can make blades crazy sharp.

I haves SV30 blades and I get mine razor sharp.

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in my 1st 10 blades on the edge pro i used butcher & nonexpensive hunters in a multitude of bevels. i really get great results on even recurve edges but i think thats because i spent my earlier efforts on various bevels on less costly blades that allowed some valuable learning curve w/o botching an expensive user. i have done many alloys such as s30, d2, & even zdp189. one point is that when turning blades over to work on opposing sides is that it's real important to index blades exactly the same everytime you change the direction of the knife on the small shelf.--cranky72

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Vince--at least good to know I am not alone. I won't have to sell it cause it ain't mine.

I have sharpened around 50+ blades on the Edge Pro, so not a complete rookie.
I just don't care for hollow ground blades and this was the first time sharpening one on the Edge Pro.

My thinking is that as the cutting edge follows a geometric surface (concave) out along a geometric line (curve), you get some issues with the cutting edge angle vs the stone (plane), especially if you move a longer blade on the rest ---or?????

BTW -- thanks mannlicher and boise. Using Sams design kitchen knife and the Edge Pro Rick convinced me to get---I cut the crap out of my index finger yesterday. So sharp (after 3 uses) the cut sealed right up in the middle and squirted out the ends.

jmho
Tim


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Tim,

No experience with the Edge Pro, so just speculating, but I think I'd have to agree with Rick's thoughts. Hollow grind shouldn't really affect the sharpening process. I'm thinking I read somewhere that longer blades had a bit more issue being sharpened on an edge pro due to the angles. Not knowing if it was a long blade, I don't know if that was the cause or maybe Vince hit the target and it's a blade issue, but I can't see the the hollow grind making a difference from a sharpening perspective, for whatever that's worth.

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I sharpen my Dozier YPK on a DMT fine stone by hand.It only takes a couple strokes on each side to get shaving sharp.If I want it scary sharp,I will then use a leather strop loaded with green compound.It is just as sharp at the tip as elsewhere.

I can easily imagine that a bit too much pressure at the wrong angle would ruin the edge.

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Tim, you can always call Ben, the owner of Edge Pro. He has helped me a lot with various problems, including how to work with specific steels.

He will spend all the time you need helping you.


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Gosh I really like a hollow ground blade on a hunting knife. Never had trouble getting them shaving sharp along the entire edge but I sharpen by hand on bench stones.

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I did hundreds of hollow ground (my nephew used to do that) from scratch with bench stones also. No problem getting them shaving sharp.
I got the Dozier shaving sharp on the front end with the Edge Pro, but SCARY sharp on the back section.

The thinner the blade at the cutting edge, the easier it is to sharpen---at least with bench stones. Seems Edge Pro needs more testing. My nephew has no problem with the lansky system and his hollow ground blades, but it has a different fixturing system.
Interesting dilema.
jmho
Tim



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If you use the thinner stones it's easier to be consistent and remove more material in a lighter swipe than when you use the wider stones that have a bigger contact surface - so if your a hard steel knife guy like me make sure you get thin stones.

This is also why lanky systems tend to work better on harder steel than the wider stone knock off knife sharpener kits.

It takes a bit more practice to get razor sharp on any recurve knife, or long blade knife you sharpen with any system, same is true with stone sharpening but it's easier to learn how to,tackle it with the edge pro system. Just go watch the youtubes on large or long blades. Essentially you just shift the blade up or down so you keep the edge angle you want on that sedan of the blade.

Is the combination of bad angle, and in consistent strokes with broad or wider stones that make it more difficult to get a good edge far away from the center of the sharpening system.

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I sharpened a couple Doziers on my Edge pro for a buddy a couple weeks ago, I was able to get them incredibly sharp, front to back. I thought the D2 was really nice steel to work with.

larry

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larry
Were they short of longer blades??
Tim


"The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them."
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Tim,


it was a short carry knife. Can you email me pics of the profile of the knife, and also try to capture the edge of the knife? razorsharpsvcgmail.com


larry

Last edited by gotthecustombug; 04/13/12.
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All you have to do to sharpen the longer ones is to slide it down the tool and hold the angle the same - provided your on the flat of the blade it's all good.

which reminds me I was gonna sell my 2-3 Lansky kits...

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The knife was a Dozier Pro guides knife in D2 steel.


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I love my D2 knives until it is time to sharpen them. Honestly I have given up trying for a clean polished edge with D2, I finish with 320 on the edge pro and move one. When someone wants a razor sharp push-cutting edge I recommend a different steel or I will thin up the blade quite a bit, going 18deg on the primary and 21deg on secondary vs 21 primary and 24 secondary for steels such as S30V, CM154 or ATS34.

IMHE I can easily shave with the last steels at a 24deg angle but D2 fights me all the way to get in comparibly sharp.


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most d2 i've worked with seems to follow what many knifemakers mentioned--"never gets real sharp & stays that way forever". i will give d2 credit for getting a medium edge & working for a long long time.--cranky72

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Tim,
Obviously, (and as I know you know grin) despite some of the previous, you can't slide the blade down the platen(table) and maintain the angle with Dozier's high hollow grind. I have had 20ish, and still have 13 Doziers and based on the standard received condition of the knives measured on my goniometer would offer this:

- set up the knife as normal on the platen(table);

- re-profile the edge up to the sweep at the tip with the 120 stone to 15 with an 18 micro-bevel then finish as desired. For Dozier D2 beyond 600 is superfluous.

- do the sharpie trick on the unsharpened portion at the tip and hog it with the 120 until it's re-profiled. Repeat for the micro-bevel. Finish to 600.

- Rinse and repeat... laugh



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