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Joined: Dec 2001
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I've been a member here for years. But usually read only. I do most of my posting over on Accurate Reloading.

Now that I have my honey-do-list caught up and looking for a few jobs.

I have several MKX/M98 patterns as well as a Mini Mauser factory pattern.

I have no way to really drill a through bolt hold for a two piece stock.

Please PM me or contact me at ramrod340hotmail.com and we can discuss the details of your project.

As I've said I don't normally post here so if I'm stepping on any rules please let me know.


Just my 2 cents.
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Lots of folks looking for MK X stocks. Post some pictures. BTW, it would be best to inlet for the older trigger guard with the release in the guard, NOT the one on the side (button).

If somebody wants the newer FP style, they can simply file the button down below the stock line (half moon shape). Best solution rather than having the idiotic inletting of the Remington 798/newer MK X stocks.

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What do you require in the way of a pattern? Does your follower stylus injure a wooden stock used as a pattern?


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Here are the majority of the patterns I have on hand for the MK/FN/M98. I don't cut for the cross pin release and I also do not cut for the side safety.

This is what I call an old classic.
[Linked Image]
While this is more a new classic.
[Linked Image]

This is the upgraded MKX Cavalier factory.
[Linked Image]

The MKX Whitworth.
[Linked Image]
A couple older FN styles along with a semi I've never got around to building.
[Linked Image][Linked Image]

I also have a factory Mini MKX.

As to using a stock for a pattern. The recoil pad must be removed so a block can be screwed on. Two holes will be drilled in the front of the barrel channel to hold the from pivot. This will keep the cutter from cutting the front 2" or so of barrel channel.

The guides are an epoxy cast of the exact cut made by the router bit. Most of the outside is cut with a larger round nose bit. While I would love to say there is no chance of a mark on the pattern I can't. If someone plans on using a stock again I will do my best to not mark it. Taking extra steps like a layer of tape, running with minimum down pressure etc.


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I for one would like a LH Mauser stock in the classic lines there are 68 of them coming into the USA!


kk alaska

Alaska 7 months of winter then 5 months of tourists
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A LH classic would be great. There are some duplicators that will cut a mirror image. Wish I had one but sorry I don't


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That old classic looks pretty good...............................

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Thanks, I think it is my favorite.


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In the very few times that I have had stocks cut (rather than just buying one) I have first had a stock duplicated from the pattern using really really cheap wood, like cherry, or a very cheap piece of walnut.

Then glass bed the metal into the pattern and change anything that needed changing. Then use that glass beded pattern to cut the good piece of wood.

I think this is necessary becasue there are so many different variations of everything. A bit more expensive because you have to pay for two times through the duplicator. But if your using an expensive piece of wood its really the only way to go other than inletting it from the stick by hand.


For all of those left hand mausers coming into the US. You could do the same thing. Make a pattern stock off of your good classic stock using laminated cherry or a very cheap piece of walnut. Then glass bed the lefty into it. Rasp off the cheekpiece on the one side, and use some body putty and wood to put the same thing on the other side.

I once knew a guy with a brand new Krieghof Shotgun. He paid a lot of money for it. He didn't shoot it very well when he first bought it, so for a few times that he went to the sporting clays range he took a rasp with him. He was whittling away at that stock, and by the time he got it shooting like he wanted to it was full of auto body putty. He changed a lot about that stock. And then he had a new one cut with good wood. So its not impossible.


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Hey 22WRF long time no talk. Yep body putty will hold up for several cuttings. Long term epoxy does best.

I've tried various woods for patterns. If I had to choose it would be myrtle. Hard as a rock. Or cheap walnut. It needs to be dry just like the finished product or it will move on you.

Either Mrytle or Walnut pattern grade will run about $30 so really not worth playing with other option in my opinion.


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What is the desired moisture content for a potential stock blank?


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Moisture? Ask 6 people get 6 answers. Most will say in the 6-10% range. Some go as high as 12%. Aging to me is as if not more important than moisture. Give me a 10-15yr air dried 9% over a 2 yr old kiln dried 6% most any day.

"MOST" quality stock blank suppliers will not sell you a blank that is not ready. While you can get some great prices from bargin suppliers or ebay I've heard good and bad.


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Originally Posted by ramrod340

I have no way to really drill a through bolt hold for a two piece stock.


What about shotgun stocks, SxS in this case, that do not use a thru-bolt? Merkel, for example.


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Hey Ramrod

It would be fun to see a photo of your setup!!!!!!

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WiFowler,

While I've neve done a Merkel I have done several old lever actions. There has to be enough wood in the front of the stock to allow a pivot point. Forearm more than likely will need to be mounted to something else to allow it to pivot assuming it is to be reused.


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Originally Posted by ramrod340
WiFowler,

While I've never done a Merkel I have done several old lever actions. There has to be enough wood in the front of the stock to allow a pivot point. Forearm more than likely will need to be mounted to something else to allow it to pivot assuming it is to be reused.


Good info and thanks for the reply. The Turkish blanks I'm considering are 18 1/2" - 20" long; the stock I'd like to duplicate is 16" long (measured whilst still on the gun).


I never thought I'd grow up to be a grumpy old man, but I did, and I'm killin' it.

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