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Joined: Aug 2006
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If you've read the reviews in Bass Pro, I'm one of the folks who has used CX premium in 6 pound for trout and 8 pound for walleyes on spinning rods since it came out, and although it isn't shown in saltwater catalogs, 20 pound for salmon trolling and ocean spinning, with 30 pound on my ocean level-winds for medium fishing. It isn't stiff, is fluorocarbon coated, knots well, holds up to mild abrasion, and is relatively cheap.
In fresh water I've been using cheap Berkely Cherrywood graphite rods, medium light or medium weight - $22.96 at Wal-Mart, and my salmon trolling rod is a Cabela's Depthmaster composite - $34.95. I've had it on 6 trips in 6 years, and it's still going strong.


Living proof that expressing your opinion is not a good career advancement strategy.

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Picked up a fewcherrywood rods at BiMart. Good rod for the$

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Havevused p line fluoro 4 and 6 lb extensively on ul outfits.

Great results.


Originally Posted by 65BR
Thanks Guys, and Ringman, head a few things on that line, also reading on P-line - a new one they have out for spinning outfits..CX or something like that.

Sounds like many of the 'new tech' lines have some 'idiosyncracies' - as I read user comments i.e. Basspro site, reviews very informative, also read some on crappie.com as I searched for info on flourocarbon lines - good info - thanks guys.

Always open to new better ways, if it's cost effective. Faster sinking line and better hook set/sensitivity - low stretch are appealing...as abrasion resistance.

Need to do more reading and try some various ones. The more you can 'FEEL' strikes, the more fish one should catch...

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I tried a couple of the non mono lines and went back to Trilene mono "XL "Smooth Casting Low Vis Green" in the 4 to 8lb range on spinning gear and 10 lb on two of my baitcasters. Not saying it's the best but it works for me.

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65BR Offline OP
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Appreciate all the comments.

IC B2

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I tried florocarbon line and find it too brittle and it abraids fairly easily. It just isn't worth the extra money. I echo Pwlr's feelings about it.

Line cost is something I pay attention to. I replace my Stren 4lb mono about every two usages due to line twist (with spinners). I am also always checking for abrasion in the last foot or so of line and cut my line off and retye frequently (at least every hour).

You sort of adjust to line stretch and so forth after you become familiar with a given line. Your rod choice has a lot to do with your ability to feel strikes.

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65BR Offline OP
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Thanks for your post, now as to your username, take it you like slingshots?

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Quote
I replace my Stren 4lb mono about every two usages due to line twist (with spinners).

Something's not right there, do you use a good quality swivel? Necessary with spinners and spoons.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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Any suggestions on brand/type/size? I catch alot of fish on spinners and spoons on UL tackle. Good point.

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Not really except stay small. I use a snap swivel and for UL go with the smallest I can find which is darned small and still several times stronger than 4 pound test. People have a preference for styles but to me they all work about as well. Some people absolutely refuse to use a snap. For spinners I believe they tie on a small swivel, a length of leader, and tie onto that. Check the terminal tackle pages at Bass Pro or Cabela's for an idea on styles/sizes.

If you're boating an old trick to untwist a line is to use a heavy plug (and a swivel) and let out a lot of line while motoring at a good clip. Not perfect but gets most of the twists out.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
IC B3

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Thanks for the info, no doubt that drive/untwist is a good idea when able. I hate I can't do that when bank fishing - lol.

Hoping by using low memory line and a reel w/quality roller and larger spool I will eliminate issues. Not overfilling the spool and using proper technique loading it has helped a good bit.

I'll have to p/u some small swivels to use as needed.

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Guess I'm not fussy enough. I still have and occasionally use a rod and reel my dad had made up for me around 1959. The reel is a Mitchell 308 presently spooled with 6# Stren Sensor. Sensor was a low stretch mono line with great sensitivity, maybe a little stiffer than regular Stren. Still it casts well though something like Magnathin does better.

The rod is two piece five foot glass basically ultralight and fits the reel and a little kid well. Mom and I stayed with my grandparents in northern Wisconsin while the Army had Dad in Korea. When he got back it was about a 12 mile ride to the St. Croix factory in Park Falls. Dad told the guy at the factory store what he wanted and the guy went to the factory floor and came back with the bottom section from one rod and the top section from another. Worked beautifully together. Seems that they were experimenting with the idea of a short, light rod for working streams in hip boots where you have brush at your back. You would pull the rod tip back with your off hand and the spring from the bent rod would propel the lure.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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65BR Offline OP
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If it works - us it smile Thanks.

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I use Pline flurocarbon on my light spinning out fits.
On my medium spinning rods I use fire line original. No backing just spooled straight to the reel. I like both really well.

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Thx 221

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I have found , without question, Trilene XL will have less spool jump, loops, and line twist than any other brand:
The down side is it softness does not wear well on rocky bottoms. I overcome this by tying on 2-3' leader of XT with a surgeons knot.

If P Line is coming out with a line dedicated to spinning reels I will certaimly try it as I have always found their quality to be excellent.

I quit Fluorocarbon a long time ago.

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Tried Berkley Nanofil.

Expensive, but casts 20% farther, smooth and no kinks or memory.

Clear/white color can bee seen in the water, but not too bad.

Only goes up to 10# or so I think, but for L/UL, appears so far to be the cat's anus.

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For braids I like PowerPro. For mono I like Trilene XL, XT, and Stren. I only use Fluro for leaders. For salmon trolling I like Trilene Big Game

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65BR Offline OP
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Good info - thanks

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Not a big UL fan, but I do use spinning gear in the medium to medium-heavy range.

I like P-Line Flouroclear in the 10, 12 lb. range. I find it very managable on spinning gear. Also very impressed with the new Trilene XL Armor Coated line.


Ed
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