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Joined: Jul 2001
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M
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Offhand, I can also remember articles about accurizing No. 1's from Jon Sundra and Ross Seyfried.

I've written a number of articles involving getting No. 1's to shoot. The easist technqiue I've found is to buy one of the rifles made in the last 20 years or so, since Ruger started making their own barrels--or one of the very early No. 1's with Douglas barrels.

I've owned at least a dozen No. 1's made since 1994, and would guess that at least half have shot very well out of the box. The only accurizing technique I've used on the ones that didn't shoot was epoxy-bedding the tip of the forend to stabilize it, and making sure the rear of the forend wasn't pressing hard against the front of the action.


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I got my information from a Sundra article back in the mid to late '70s. One trick was to use an o-ring around the forearm screw or to use a small piece of inner tube to create forend pressure, but those were only short term treatments. Changes in humidity would likely cause a change in the forearm pressure.

The long term fix was to glass bed the three contact points and then sand just enough wood from the rear of forearm to give clearance.

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MD,

My less than humble opinion ( grin) is, the the Ruger No.1 is the most beautiful, gracefull production rifle ever produced by anyone. This from a guy who isnt really a Ruger fan. Sadly, the No. 1 has the rep of not being very accurate.

The first I ever owned escaped the factory with an exceptional piece of walnut and will put 5 handloads into around an inch. I have never touched a screw on it nor will I ever. It is an early rifle in 6mm and prolly has a Douglas barrel.

It would be great if someone could 'crack the code' that turned them all into good shooters.

O



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If you are not succeeding with changing this and that on the rifle- I would suggest you give the reloading dies a thorough cleaning and reset them. Also weigh the components to make sure of the bullet weights and such. Best I can do.-Mike


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I had this happen to me. it ended up being a bad batch of primers.

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Originally Posted by OUTCAST
MD..,

Legend has it that some one, years ago, wrote an article on "Accurizing the #1". Maybe as far back as the 80s. I searched for that article for years, never found it, and no longer remember in which mag it was supposed to have appeared.

As I remember, it involved somehow free floating the forend, maybe glass bedding the portion where fore end meets hanger, and perhaps glass bedding the contact points of the butt stock.

So, if some jaded gunwriter in search of material had a mediocre #1 and the time and where with all to play with the bedding, he might have the basis for an article and could even become a hero to frustrated #1 owners.

Just a thought. whistle

O
Ross Seyfried wrote an article way back when about floating the forend and using the hanger screw tensioner method.
Works super with a No.1 that won't group, not so much with one that already will!
Cat


Last edited by catnthehat; 07/05/12.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Well,

My bet is still on the wood shifting on this particular rifle.


Yep..............I actually replaced wood stocks on some #1's with synthetic stocks for that very reason.

Since most of the potential issues have been discussed, I'd also look at the fore end contact against the receiver.........on #1's I've always made sure that there is no contact pressure there at all as that can also cause problems.

MM

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