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Joined: Dec 2004
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Originally Posted by rcamuglia
The marks on the board are MILS and MOA for the exact distance from the scope to the board.

When a guy refuses to answer a simple question, it's telling.
Originally Posted by rcamuglia
Why you make it a point to say "29.6 yards" as if this discounts anything, I have no idea, unless you are completely unaware that the distance is meaningless. A MIL or MOA at 5 yards is a MIL or an MOA at 1000 yards. They just happen to subtend a different distance at each.

It makes a huge difference. Attempting to measure reticles and checking tracking at a distance which is not parallax free is a waste of time. Which means for most tactical scopes you're looking at around a 50 yd minimum (unless using a collimator of some sort). You really got the F1 parallax free at 29 yds?

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Yep

There's a really cool trick to do so. A paper cup that fits over the scope's objective bell that has a 3/8" hole drilled in the bottom is used.

Good question BTW


Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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No, that'll reduce the exit pupil and increase the depth of field disguising the parallax you have, but you still have it. If you want accurate results test the scope properly.

That trick works really well for something else though--reducing mirage while shooting in hot weather. Though a Butler Creek with a 3/4-1" hole stays on the rifle better than a paper cup.

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We all have Butler Creek Objective covers that are drilled out that way. We use them in Tac Matches when very close shots are called for. At the 2011 TPRC, one stage called for a hostage/hostage taker shot at 11 yards. It works.


Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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Originally Posted by rcamuglia
The marks on the board are MILS and MOA for the exact distance from the scope to the board. IOW, the distance to the board from where the jig is set up was measured to the 1/16" inch. With that distance known, the spacing between the lines delineating MIL and MOA were calculated and marked.


So in other words you have no [bleep] clue... So now the "Scope Evaluation Sheet" has boiled down to unknown distances, unknown spacing and paper [bleep] cups... I now know all I need to know...

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Originally Posted by rcamuglia
It works.

For bringing the image into focus well enough to make a quick shot at close range on a relatively large target. That's something completely different than removing parallax such that you can measure erector system movement by observing reticle travel relative to the image down to tiny fractions of an inch...when they are still on different planes.

Garbage in = ....

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Have we decided who can piss higher on the tree yet?


Liberalism is a mental disorder that leads to social disease.
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Certainly not any cases of dehydration!


Bob
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Originally Posted by ehg
I now know all I need to know...


And like Bill Murray in Caddy Shack, you will achieve "Total Conscienceness".
That's gotta be a relief.


Originally Posted by JonA
If you want accurate results test the scope properly



It appears you use a much more sophisticated method. Kindly give a detailed description and post some pictures of the method and equipment used.

I'm sure everyone will be interested in comparing the two.




Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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having read this whole thread, i find it intresting that some people cant get along with a leupold scope, i dont claim to be a great long range shot, but have made some long shots over the years of hunting,i am sure i hunt more than 99% of the people on this thread as i hunt 8 months of the year every year,and my scoped guns get more travel time in rough condtions than most guns ever see, i have never had a leupold scope fail me. i have always been suprised that i dont get the break downs other people talk about, but they just dont happen, and my rifles get the hell beat out of them, on horse back, in and out of jeeps & trucks,covered with mud and dirt, i just take a soft paint brush and clean them off and keep useing them,if i told you how many game animals i take a year you would call me a liar, but its over 1000 animals a year. use what works for you but i will keep my leupolds. rio7

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Originally Posted by JohnBurns


That seems pretty reasonable and the fact that many of the MK 4 Variables in the Army�s inventory have spent time on Barrett M107 might be considered a clue.




By the time my service ended and I left my team, MY teams M107 was on it's 4th Mk 4, 2nd and 3rd team were on their combined 6th Mk 4...


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Originally Posted by Trappererick
I am branching out into some long range hunting for crows, chucks, and coyotes. My ranges will be legit shots out to 800 yards with most between 400-600. The gun will be built on a short action 308 bolt face so that is where it must start.

I need help coming up with a caliber and scope. My thoughts were maybe a 6.5 Creedmore, 250 Savage AI, or maybe even a straight 308. As for glass I need something that won't cost more than my house payment and be simple and tough.

Give me some ideas.


22-243 shoot the 70 grain 22 bullets at 3500, Awesome coyote gun look it up

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