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Originally Posted by R_H_Clark
I jut recently found this 18-2 for $500 out the door. Dealer said it is from the early 60's but I haven't looked up the numbers. This is 6 at 20 yards hand held resting on a bag.
[Linked Image]

It might do better when I get use to it. This is the only 6 shot group of the session. I shot a lot more in some targets and just wore out the center with a few fliers thrown around.



R.H.,
Let me know if you don't "get used to it". You stole that one! Nice.


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Smiths are alright.

I like my LCR better.

Haven't tried one of the SP101's but if you like S/A's I don't think you can beat a Single Six.


Travis


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Freedom Arms made, apparently, at least one M83 in .22LR. It was tested by the American Rifleman and they raved about the accuracy, some absurd groups like 1/4" or so at 25 yards - equal to Olympic Free pistols, or so they said. smile still a huge revo for .22, I think they were catering to silhouette shooters.

One of the full-lug 617's ought to be a more reasonable option. There is a pre-lock 6" model at the local Gander Mountain, but I really don't want to pay $950 for a .22, and I have a 5-screw K22, anyway. smile



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Actually, come to think of it, it might be real interesting to find a 5 screw S&W, and hand it to a master like Bowen and let them install a new barrel & line bored cylinder. It would be expensive, but probably worth it.


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Originally Posted by tex_n_cal
Actually, come to think of it, it might be real interesting to find a 5 screw S&W, and hand it to a master like Bowen and let them install a new barrel & line bored cylinder. It would be expensive, but probably worth it.


Now that'd be a neat pistol!


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Looking at stainless firearms only -

A Smith 617 is, after all, a S&W Model 17 which is and always has been one of the finest .22 revolvers in the world. But the 617 suffers from that totally useless underlug which adds weight to a handgun that never needed it. If the weight doesn't bother you then the 617 is still top dog for a quality DA .22 revolver.

The S&W Model 63 in it's original 4" form or one of the earlier iterations, like the 5" model, is a great .22 revolver for packing. The current 3" model is still good but IMO not up there with the original. The only problem with the original is the red ramp sight is too wide for the rear notch, or the rear notch is too narrow, take your pick, but that's a small quibble. If'n I had my druthers I'd get the 5" model where they remedied that by putting a nice all black front sight on it to give it a very good sight picture, but those are pretty rare on the used market.

Have no experience with the new Ruger SP101 4" model but everything I've read shows it to be a typical Ruger. Tough, accurate enough, but not very refined in trigger pull.

The new Ruger Single Ten is a dedicated 22LR single action handgun so from what I understand they remedied the oversized bore of the convertible models which were sized for .224 .22 Magnum ammo, not the slightly smaller .22 LR. The longer 5 1/2" barrel gives it a nice sight radius so one should be able to do some decent precision shooting with it. Lipsey's also makes a 4 3/4" barrel stainless model. Other than that I don't know much about them.

Bearcats are neat but without an adjustable sight you are stuck with wherever it wants to hit which may or may not coincide where you want to hit.


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I'd have to go with the Freedom Arms M97, even though it's a bit heavy for my taste (5 1/2" bbl is 44 oz). It has a dual firing pin setup and I can't ever remember having a misfire with mine (and that is unusual with all the sub par .22 ammo around). I had a 617 and was not impressed. Have a new SP101 and also not impressed. Love the K22 and J frame 22s (including the aluminum frames), but probably not the "best". Probably the best value for what you are looking for would be a Stainless Ruger Single Six.

[Linked Image]

FWIW,

Paul

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Originally Posted by paul105

I'd have to go with the Freedom Arms M97, even though it's a bit heavy for my taste (5 1/2" bbl is 44 oz). It has a dual firing pin setup and I can't ever remember having a misfire with mine (and that is unusual with all the sub par .22 ammo around). I had a 617 and was not impressed. Have a new SP101 and also not impressed. Love the K22 and J frame 22s (including the aluminum frames), but probably not the "best". Probably the best value for what you are looking for would be a Stainless Ruger Single Six.

[Linked Image]

FWIW,

Paul


Now that is sweet!

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Dunno if it's THE best but I would say a S&W 17-8 Performance Center Lew Horton Heritage Edition is up there. I choot d'crp outta mine grin

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by alukban; 09/27/13.
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Paul,

That thing is bitchin'.


Travis


Originally Posted by Geno67
Trump being classless,tasteless and clueless as usual.
Originally Posted by Judman
Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
Originally Posted by KSMITH
My young wife decided to play the field and had moved several dudes into my house
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I'd say a pre-war K-22 Outdoorsman

(Not my guns or pictures though, too rich for my blood)

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


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Jim,

Gotta agree with the odd choice of the underlug. Why? I think the 63 is a better choice for carry, but then only 6 shots.

Am I correct in assuming the 63 and the 617 differences are only the underlug and capacity?


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Not all 617's are 10-shots; my early 617 has a steel 6-shot cylinder. Later 617's have alloy, 10-shot cylinders. The 10-shot models have a distinctly different double action feel, which is why I wanted a 6-shot version as it is timed, and has the same action "feel" as my 6-shot L-frame .357's.

S&W likely went with the underlug so that the 617's and underlugged 17's would have the same balance as the L-frame .357's. They make for heavy 22's, but good "understudy" revolvers for the bigger bores.

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Originally Posted by JJHACK
Jim,

Gotta agree with the odd choice of the underlug. Why? I think the 63 is a better choice for carry, but then only 6 shots.

Am I correct in assuming the 63 and the 617 differences are only the underlug and capacity?


63 is built on a J-frame. 617 is built on a K-frame.

63 pocket size. 617 medium size.

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If you really need more capacity in a J-frame 22lr, the 317 has either a nine or 10 shot cylinder. I can't recall which as I don't have my 317 3" pre-lock handy right now. They're light guns but built quite well. Tough to shoot DA, however, given the trigger is several times heavier than the revolver itself. Shot SA they're a joy.

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AB2506, thanks for that clarification, there are a plethora of models it makes my head spin!

The 6 shot would have a completely different feel in DA, after all the rotation of a 10 shot cylinder is pretty small.

My limited experience with DA .22 rimfires is that they need a rather stiff trigger to fire the rim based primers. Again maybe this is just my experience and not true in all cases. However it has been mine so far. For this reason I think the medium frame revolver might have a smoother trigger. This begs the question.

Which has a better trigger? J frame 63 or K frame 617?


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K-frame 617. The J-frame triggers are both stiffer, and proportionately heavier in relation to the weight of the gun itself so they feel less smooth and cause you to pull the gun one way or the other while firing DA.

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I could certainly make a case for the Smith 18, but I'm limited to the Ruger LCR, SP101, Single Six, Smith 63, Smith 317, no particular order here.


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The K frame definitely has the better trigger compared to the J frame. The levers are bigger with the bigger frame.

Also, I find that I have to really hook my thumb down on the J frame (or point it strsight up) because the tip of my trigger finger runs into it at full pull.

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The 18 (4" medium K-frame) would be a great choice, I sure like mine, but it's blued. Of course, it could always be cerakoted.

Just my totally subjective opinion, but a blued older Model 17 - 6" K frame (medium frame) with no underlug, is just about unbeatable for a combination of accuracy, great sights, good sight radius and great trigger pull in a revolver that, while heavy for a .22, won't drag your pants down. Then have it cerakoted for rust protection.

They are a used market proposition only and folks are proud of them, but there are enough out there in good mechanical shape but with bluing wear that it wouldn't break the bank to buy one and then have it refinished with a protective coating anyway.


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