Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Beretta oil finish stock care and maintenance

So the solution to my silver pigeon stock is??? Thanks for all the input fellas
We can all agree that a good wipe down with mineral spirits is good for cleaning right? The million dollar question is what type of oil and wax on or wax off.
Horseman, you say beretta suggests and sells a stock oil that is actually tru-oil? Wax or not the oil doesn't sound like a bad thing from what I've gather....

If it were mine I'd wipe it down with a rag and mineral spirits. Then again with another clean rag and mineral spirits. Switching rags will remove silicone instead of just smearing it around. Then assuming you have an traditional oil stock I'd use a drop or two of boiled linseed oil rubbed in with your fingers. The next day a very light buff with 0000 steel wool and it should look slightly better than new. The Beretta oil is good but I thin it with mineral spirits so it's doesn't dry thick or glossy.

Okay, I was willing to give your stupidity a pass on the silicone... But BLO??? Come on now! It is garbage and should never be used on a decent stock! It will remain sticky forever!

Anyone with your level of claimed experience would not need this sort of information. Even good oils that sit too long fail... Again, anyone with minimal experience would know this.

Steel wool?!?!?! Yeah, your experience and skills are showing right and left.

Mgw619
Came home to a slug of emails, PMs, and phone messages from folks laughing at Horseman's silicone comments. They all know what I have done and most have seen what silicone does.

In my honest opinion Horseman is absolutely an internet commando with less than zero real experience. You will do yourself a favor by not taking his advice...

A wipedown or two with mineral spirits followed by wax... Johnson's at minimum, Bri-Wax is my favorite, Renaissance Wax is as good. The toluene in Bri-Wax does a great job of ensuring it coats well... so I avoid the less nasty version without it.

You should not need to do anything else. Do not add any oil unless you give it a serious wipedown with repeated shots of an assortment of solvents. Think about how you would wipe something down if you were trying to get rid of everything on it...
art

Boiled Linseed oil has driers in it and will dry overnight. I believe you are confusing it with Linseed oil which never dries. A light buff with 0000 steel wool is pretty standard polish for finish.

Perhaps someone of your superior intellect could offer actual advice rather than trolling again as you are famous for. 23,000 posts and most of little substance. What's with all the a$$holes from Alaska? Say Hi to stick for me.

Also Art. I'll give your credit for not disparaging me through PM this time. Let everyone see what a [bleep] child you are.

I forgot about that! No need to get sensitive...

No one with a single clue about wood finishing would EVER use BLO on a fancy stock... No one with ANY BLO experience would expect it to actually dry, especially overnight. I have detailed the whys of it in a number different posts here. Feel free to do a search.

You are a total bullshitter and you can take that anyway you like. If you think giving out the advice on this thread was a service to anyone you are so sadly mistaken it hurts to think about it!
art

art it isn't my duty to educate you. I won't beat my head against a wall anymore. You are the definition of an intellectual lightweight. Once again you have taken a good thread off track with trolling. Say hi to stick for me.

I am certainly happy you will not try to educate me again... You have not a single freaking clue what you are talking about and prove it with every key stroke.

To several earlier PMs I suggested no response was the right thing because with a little slack in the line you would surely hang yourself... and like the gay plastic surgeon you really hung yourself good!

Several callers this evening were laughing hysterically AT you. I was covered in moose goo making sausage and could not talk for long... but you were the butt of many a joke this evening, congrats!

Just for your education... I have met Stick exactly once in a random bump at the Anchorage airport when he was headed to the slope and I was headed to Juneau to drive a little boat to Whittier... That was June of 2010. I have had no communication with him since. So we are real tight...

About as tight as your grasp on reality and wood finishing.

Again... you are clueless and do a serious disservice every post you make about finishing. You have proven it beyond a shadow of a doubt.

Carry on!

23000 posts full of this garbage. Good work!

About the only time I use BLO on a stock is when I touch up a U.S. military stock, and then only for originality not because it's worth a tinker's dam. The gov't in their infinite wisdom used linseed oil (either BLO or hot raw linseed oil) not because of its superior water sealing or beautiful finish, but because it was cheap and what did they care if a stock got to be crappy. At that point the gun would just get another stock thrown on it and away it would go back into service.

Steel wool? Ha ha, it is to laugh. Anybody who has had little brown freckles develop in their stock finish after its getting wet a few times knows of the perils of tiny particles of steel wedging themselves in the wood and/or its finish. Restrict its use to indoor furniture projects, if you must, but refrain from using it on something that has a very real chance of getting wet outdoors.

Steel wool can be effectively wiped off between coats with a tack cloth. To get speckles means you missed that step. BLO is a component of most wood finishes like Truoil, linspeed and formbys. They just add more driers so it will polymerize into more of a varnish. This increases the finish durability immensely.

Sako uses BLO. BLO will match most factory oil finishes. Folks should use whatever they want. I'm not telling everyone what to use. Just the op who asked me.

Wow!

To paraphrase Reagan... it isn't that you are ignorant; it is all you know that just isn't so.

The BLO you find in a can at the hardware store is NOT the same stuff you will find in Tru-Oil.

Linspeed DOES NOT contain BLO.

Sako DOES NOT use BLO on their stocks.

You do not have a clue what you are saying... "They just add more driers so it will polymerize into more of a varnish. This increases the finish durability immensely." That is a classic case where you cluelessness has been made.

One of my favorite 24hr lines of all time "You should be asking advice, not giving it!"

[bleep]. I have toured the Sako factory in Finland in 2011. I saw the stock shop and what they were using. You are once again misinformed. 23000 posts of pure genius. You didn't even know BLO dried.... Go pack some more sausage tuf guy.

Just so you have a clue, here is one...

Oils come in many grades... BLO is pretty close to the bottom... The designation BLO means it is low-grade oil going in. The quality is variable, based on the current market. they throw a lot of stuff in it to help it cure and to prevent it from curing too fast. That would be for shelf life, not quality.

Higher grades of oil, both tung and linseed, get used for serious finishes. They never get called BLO because they are not.

Now, for the first time in your life you actually know something about BLO.

If the best you can complain about is post count, have at it...

Well at least now you know it dries right? [bleep] poser.

Here is a quote from a post of mine almost a year before you showed up here...

Re: Linseed Oil [Re: 3sixbits]
Sitka deer Offline
Campfire Kahuna

Registered: 02/02/01
Posts: 23950
Loc: Anchorage, AK USA I have simply seen more ridiculous finish applications from Guild members than all other woodworkers combined. Were it not for the incredibly forgiving nature of oil finishes they would be far more obvious.

French Polish is a finish system that has been well understood for centuries. How and why it works is pretty clear. Oil is used as a lubricant in regular French Polishing. The how and why are understood. Using just oil is not much different from the rubdown given to oil finishes after some curing has occured.

Sanding slurry finishing is the best example of a common guild headshaker. No one has ever shown me a test board with a slurry finish next to a straight finish that was not screamingly obvious.

I have read many systems from many guild members and know more than a few. I have never heard of any using an oil based French Polish.

Turning the cans of oil upside down is not the issue and does not stop the aging of oil. When oil starts to polymerize the linking is very gradual. It requires oxygen and generates heat in the process. When air enters the can it displaces the nitrogen blanket the finish makers usually put in the can.

It is impossible to stop the introduction of oxygen, so some manufacturers use a variety of "stablizers" to slow the linking. They act as oxygen scrubbers but need to evaporate fairly soon after swallowing the oxygen or they can do bad stuff to the finish.

Using old finish is one of the most common mistakes folks make and it can really bite them when the result is a gummy finish that will never solidify. Oil is too cheap to risk a stock finish on when there is no need...
art
_________________________
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.

In case you would like to learn some more about oil here is the link to the thread...
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2764232/1

Thinking I knew a little about oil before you showed up...

Yes you do "know a little about oil". The problem starts when you assume anyone who disagrees with you knows nothing.

I am done arguing with you. Your lack of fundamental knowledge about oils and finishing is obvious and there is no point wasting my time disabusing your fantasies.

Sounds good. Apologies to the op for going off track trying educate someone who knows everything already.