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Pressure signs react to the laws of physics. It is very possible for Woods' rifle to be within safe pressure and for some anomaly in the Hornady rifle to cause them to undervalue their recommended load. We've all seen comparisons in manuals where one manual presents something that is far above or below another manual. However, it is right to point out that an individual example of a fast combo does not mean that all rifles will equal that achievement safely.

tag for future reference.

I have to take exception to the statement that primer appearances are of no value. Without having a pressure barrel or piezoelectric or stress tester, a loader has to use every indicator of pressure available. Relying on only one could lead to disaster. Its become very popular to dismiss primer appearances, but they are very useful if approached as a comparator to many other signs of normal pressures. Comparing gun to gun or factory load to hand load can reveal a lot. Things like sticking cases or hard extraction may well mean you're in the land of no return or KB land. Some cases like Ruger 375 or WSM cases are so stout that it takes a lot to expand or stick them. Or soft case heads expand a lot while strong cases like the two mentioned take an awful lot to expand.
Using primer appearance requires you compare low pressure loads to increasing pressure loads. Flattened primers usually mean you're getting to the upper levels of practical pressures, but deep primer pockets , or long headspace can produce them too. If lower pressure loads produce nice rounded primers and they eventually become flattened, you can safely surmise that pressures have increased. If they are completely flattened and totally fill the pocket to the edges, its time to evaluate.
Cratered primers tell you that pressure or design limits are in sight. But they can also indicate oversized firing pin holes or weak firing pin springs. All these factors are useful in establishing practical working pressures.
The decrease in recorded velocity as load limits are approached seems to be a common phenominum. This says you are in never never land and anything, any variant can cause a real pressure excursion. Your gun is trying to warn you! Just remember to use all the indicators available for a complete picture.
I could prattle on much further, but Ive probably made enough people agitated already.

nuff said?

^^^^ Well done!

I would like to add/share what I have done with the .375 Ruger.

I have an Alaskan with 20" barrel and Hogue overmolded. I have milled off the bolt knob, threaded it, and installed a larger aluminum knob to facilitate my lefty use of a righty rifle. It sports a Leupold VX-6 1-6x24.

All data taken from my strap-on chronograph.

Buffalo Bore 270 gr TSX
1. 2687
2. 2763
3. 2748
4. 2758
5. 2758

SD = 31.67
ES = 76
AVG = 2743FPS


Hornady 300gr DGS
1. 2479
2. 2456
3. 2470
4. 2448
5. 2469

SD = 12.3
ES = 31
AVG = 2464FPS


Handload - 79.8gr W760, CCI 250, Hornady 270gr SP-RP
1. 2702
2. 2707
3. 2732
4. 2702
5. 2727

SD = 14
ES = 30
AVG = 2714

Quickload predicted 2611FPS, so I apparently have a "fast" rifle.

I started with RL15 in 2019, then could not find any, so switched to W760. Just bought another 8lbs./700 rounds worth.

I detailed the use of the Buffalo load in RSA via my safari report. The TSXs did a great job! The Hornady's are less expensive and are fine for deer in MO where 75 yards is a long shot.

LH Ruger Hawkeye 20" 375 Ruger Mcmillon Stock Vortex Viper 2x7 Scope

Hornady case, CCI Mag Primer, 2725 FPS, RS BG 81.5 GR, 270 Barns TSX, 3 @ .49" at 100 yards 10 below 0 F

I am a big fan of the 375 Ruger, and also the 416 Ruger. The older 20" Alaskans with aftermarket stocks and a little trigger smoothing or replacement are in the top few of my favorite rifles.

The 375 Ruger cartridge is certainly my favorite.375.

I might be stuck in the Stone Age as to powder choice. I have been using H380 with the 270 grain TSX since Barnes published the data. No complaints as to velocity nor the accuracy. This past year I have loaded the 270 grain LRX with it at a bit longer COAL than Barnes. Seems to work well with it also. I have not been motivated to try other powders. Though it seems there are several other good to excellent choices.

I have a Ruger Alaskan in 375, a buddy on this site worked up a load with H-380 and a 250 grain Barnes TTSX2650 fps that shoots cloverleafs!

I always document my chronograph and range data on Excel data sheets for each cartridge. This makes it simple to use the graphing function to display ‘MV vs powder charge’ 2-axis graphs. The slope tends to be fairly uniform but eventually tends to flatten as it gets near the charge where sticky extraction soon follows. I’ve learned, with time and hard knocks, to stop increasing charges when the slope shows a definite flattening.

I surmise that the point where the slope definitely changes represents as high a pressure as I’m willing to accept, without measuring chamber pressure more directly, at least with a strain gauge. Because I’m reluctant to do that, I accept the flattening slope as an empirical indicator that pushing charges - and therefore, pressures higher - doesn’t increase MV meaningfully and exposes the rifle and shooter to unwarranted risk.

I’ve graphed enough cartridges and rifles to rely on this method, despite lack of more direct evidence of chamber pressure, as good enough from a practical perspective. It’s kept my rifles and me in one piece, respectively.

That seems like a good procedure / process to me.

We are heading for an almost 20 year old answer to a question noone asked. I just fail to see what the round brings to the table for which a place has already been set.

The 375 H&H was, and remains, an excellent cartridge. But there are few man made objects Orr tools that can not be improved upon.
Being designed for temperature sensitive Cordite powder the old H&H round is long, belted and severally tapered to assist with extraction in hot climates.
The 375 Ruger does not face those constraints as we have modern temperature insensitive powders, the belt is unnecessary so a shorter case with less taper will allow equal, actually a bit more, powder capacity.
The shorter case means it easily fits in less expensive standard length actions .

A shorter case means little to most people but if you use your rifle on dangerous game the ability to operate the bolt even a tiny fraction of a second faster can be a lifesaver . That’s why many PH’s prefer double barrel rifles.
A fraction of a second may not seem like much when you are at the range, but anyone who ever played , or watches sports, will tell you that the difference between being the fastest by even a nanosecond can separate the top boxer, batter, soccer player, sprinter or NFL lineman from winning or loosing . And when your life in on the line you want every advantage you can get

Couldn’t agree more on Phil’s comment about the importance of split second speed on DG. Whether a brown bear or elephant at close quarters, the follow up shot, if needed at an incoming or departing animal - even though it may be mortally wounded - makes the difference on whether a straight forward plan works or winds up in a messy end.

Getting mashed or ripped apart by claws or tusks is real, if the 2nd and/or 3rd shots are not very fast. Even when the wounded animal starts a retreat, the ability to stop a long, maybe dangerous or futile tracking job, is often a matter of split seconds, as Phil points out.

No matter how well made, H&H length bolt actions take a bit longer to work and the unsupported length of the bolt protruding from the raceways is just longer enough that a bit more wobble results than a standard LA bolt. Seemingly small differences but since we’re splitting hairs, split hairs do make a difference.

Beyond that 2nd shot, the situation is getting dire as more follow ups may be possible infrequently, and then split seconds do stack up and the difference is either real or irrelevant. Just my opinion based on much less experience than Phil and others bring to their informed conclusions.

BTW, I’m an unabashed admirer and user of classical cartridges that work. The 375H&H holds a real place in my list of these old tried-and-true classics. However, the 375 Ruger is one of those rare innovations that combine the best of the past - the proven 3/8” bullet diameter - with a modern design case which fits in a standard LA length action. The best of both worlds IMHO.

One of the few rifles I wished I never sold was my left Ruger 375. I think the next time I see a fresh production run of brass I'll stock up then work on finding/building a rifle for the brass.

I honestly wonder if anyone was ever killed using a magnum length Mauser when a standard length Mauser would have saved their life? Further if using a M70 in 375H&H and a M70 in 375 Ruger could anyone demonstrate a measurable cycling speed difference? It would make for an interesting experiment.

375 Ruger fan here. While the 375H&H is a proven cartridge there can be no doubt the Ruger is " better" in several ways. In the end, like what you like.

The .375 Ruger is an improvement versus the .375 H&H for all the reasons elucidated above.
Similarly, shorter bolt throw honors go to the .458 WinMag as an improvement over the .458 Lott.
New powders and new bullets make the SAAMI .458 WinMag the clear winner, disproving all of the Lottite denials.
Single-load it to same greater MAP and COL as the .458 Lott for stunt shooting, and it outruns the Lott.
Keep a magazine full of premium bullets for short-range, quick follow-up work with the .458 WinMag.
Unfortunately the .458/.375 Ruger is not an improvement over the .458/.375 H&H 2.5".

Of course the Lott came AFTER the win mag.

And Jack Lott said in print numerous times that all he wanted was a cartridge that consistently gave 2150 fps with a 500 gr bullet. With modern powders the 458 Win easily beats that and Hornady ballisticians assure me that AT EQUAL PRESSURES, there is only around 60-80 fps difference between the 458 Win and the 458 Lott.