Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns Cast bullets in a 10mm auto?

I have a stainless bisley in 45 colt. It's a fine piece but I don't shoot it very much because it's pretty heavy. I've been rolling around the idea of trading it toward a 10mm auto, most likely the Glock 20sf, but I wasn't sure about cast bullets in a 10mm.

I've read post after post about the stopping power of the 10mm with various jacketed bullets. I'd like to use hard cast bullets if for no other reason than cost and what I think would be superior penetration over jacketed bullets. (Opinions welcomed)

Has anyone loaded a 10mm with a good hard cast bullet? I've used Dry Creek bullets in my 45 and love them. I really like them because they're affordable and Lynn is an easy guy to get in touch with who also stands by his products.

I don't cast nor do I see myself starting in the foreseeable future so I'd be buying any cast bullets. Next to quality, available and price are pretty important to me.

Keith

Just pick an after market barrel with cut rifling and shoot till you feel better.

I worked up a load with 200 grain Beartooth bullets. I couldn't get stellar accuracy and settled for a little less than 2" at 25 yards. I suspect I need to slug my barrel and get the next bullet diameter size up or down, but I am not a hard cast expert by any means.

As mentioned, you really need an aftermarket barrel for hard cast or reloading, with a Glock. All the more important with a 10. The stock barrel has polygonal rifling, which does not work well from a safety standpoint with cast, and it lacks the case support aftermarkets have, for handloading.

I ave had pretty good luck with the 40 s&w with cast bullets. They need to be pretty hard and throttled down a bit. I shoot them just for plinking. 40 and 45 work great with cast bullets 9 mm not so much. Haven't done 10mm as the whole idea is power so I load mine full power. I have no doubt that 10 mm reduced would work out fine. You might ask over on the cast boolits forum.

Once again, the myth is repeated that after-market barrels have more case support than a factory Model 20 barrel of recent vintage.

I've been using quite a few cast 180's in my Kimber with good results, but I've kept velocities well under 1050 fps.

Very early in this thread. ^^^^^^This for starts.^^^^^^^^

Your loads are going to be over 30k psi. You need hard cast of 18BH and above. The TC's are good to start with loading for an auto. I use Longshot powder for the top loads,but there are other find powders. Change that funky Glock barrel for casts. That's good for now. More to come.

I've posted this question on several sites and I'm seeing a barrel change being part of this equation. Who beside Lone Wolf would you suggest? If the barrel swap does happen, should I go with the longer barrel?

Also, after looking around a bit for brass, it seems pretty hard to come by....

I wonder if I'd be better off going with a 21sf since I'm sitting on a pile of 45ACP brass and I'm already loading for this cartridge. The whole point of the potential swap to a full size auto is for a side arm while in the woods here in south Louisiana.

The 21sf would be fine for that. Now on the wild boars down there I would prefer the 10mm. But a good 45 +P in Hard cast would be fine. I can't answer your question on the Glock barrel $hit. I do not own Glocks. Go with BH 15 on those bullets. The Laser-cast 225 TC work great.

Not a myth, but a fact. That could pertain to the fact that my 20 is also over 20 years old. I have not had the experience of comparing Glock 20 stock barrels of a more recent vintage, but the naked eye clearly shows my Storm Lake supports much more of the case than the stock barrel does. A simple test with a pin and calipers shows the Storm Lake supports the case above the web. The stock Glock does not.

Starline was taking orders for 10mm brass last week, or so. I ordered another 500. You might check their website. Their brass comes well recommended.

Everybody knows about "Glock Smiles". They are famous for them in the 40 and 10mm.

Glock smiles?

Yea, on the high pressure rounds, IE 40 S&W and the 10mm, the stock glock barrel does not support the head completely. You get a bulge in the case that looks just like a smile.

Fact; My G21/45acp KKM aftermarket barrel is fully supported vs the factory barrel of recent manufacture which is not... can't speak to the G20/10mm as i don't have one.

Jerry

No.1 on starline, which is mostly all i have used in the glock 20.
I think if you were to lay the stock glock barrel next to a KKM barrel you would settle real quick the "myth" of the better case support argument, which is no debate in the KKM.
I also increased the power of the main recoil spring.
I have had people tell me on later model glocks, they have increase the support for the case, but not verified by me.
I have loaded from the 150grain range to 200grain range and up to the old norma loads in power. No issues, period except for one thing. I was also using the six inch barrel and was getting some stovepipes on ejection, i think in some cases from not enough powder that it was effecting the timing. Interesting enough using the aftermarket barrel to mimic what it came with no issues.
I also out of curiousity after hearing about it, took the slides off a 20 and a 21, both fit on each others frame when i switched them. This was done as i heard you could get a barrel in 10mm to use in the 21. Just another thought.

i might add one other thing since i do cast. My bullets are somewhere in hardness around the original Lyman no 2 mixture that is around 16, and i have not experienced any leading issues. They are sized to .401.
One of the really important things using lead in a glock in my opinion to avoid issues is to really clean the thing frequently.

I shoot 38-40 cast wo checks out of my kkm barreled g20. I have put at least 500 rounds through it with no significant leading to the naked eye. My stock barrel would show leading at 40 rounds. The support difference is very real and my g20 is new last year. I choose the 38-40 because the meplat approaches that of the bear tooth yet feeds 100% question free and is easy to find given the market.

I should add that I also load 200gr xtp, double taps and 180 berrys in addition to the 180gr 38-40. I have a lot of 500 155gr xtps on hand now also. Longshot is my go to powder. I've never tried any other, though I have blue dot.....The Longshot produces all of what I want and none of what I don't.

I've loaded a fair number of Double Tap's 200 gr. wide flat point cast bullets in my 1006 S&W.
I push these about 1100 fps. They penetrate quite well. For instance, my 180 gr. XTP loads or my 240 gr., .44 Magnum XTP loads will penetrate all the way to the back of a second 2.5 gallon, 12 inch long plastic jug of water. The 200 gr. load above will penetrate all the way through three of said jugs of water. That's over 36 inches of penetration vs. 24 inches.
I might add that the jugs don't blow apart anything like they do with the jacketed HP ammo, but penetrate they do.
These bullets come from Double Tap with gas checks, so leading is not an issue. E

I have been using the Doubletap 200 gr. Wide Flat Nose in my Glock 20s, S&W 610s, a DW Cbob, Colt Delta Elite, an EAA Compact (piece o'crap) and a Fusion 1911. It is the one load that has shot well in every one of them and also works exceptionally well on deer!