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memtb Offline OP
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A friend of mine just recently bought a Weatherby Mark V(I'm not at all knowledged on a Weatherby, it's above my pay grade), 270 Weatherby Mag.,Japanese manufacture (late 70's, early 80's he thinks)in like new condition. He just got around to shooting it with the handloads provided with the rifle. At 100 yrds. the 3 shot group was abysmal, and at 200 yrds. only got 2 of 3 on a 11x17 sheet of paper. The barrel also got "very" hot with only 2 shots downrange. We will go thru the usual check of scope/ mounts and obvious bedding issues. But,were hoping that someone knowledged with the Weatherby,s could tell us if the barrel should be free-floated or have a pressure-point similar to a Remington. Also, are there any specific torque settings on the bedding screws! Once we're satisfied that the rifle appears to be OK, we'll start trying to build a load for it. Any and all help is appreciated! Thanks, memtb

This post was moved to "Hunting Rifles" - this is what happens when I attempt to post at 02:30 hrs.

Last edited by memtb; 09/07/14.

You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong." -Bob Hagel

“I’d like to be a good rifleman…..but, I prefer to be a good hunter”! memtb 2024
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Buy a box of factory ammo as a reality check and baseline. Maybe pull down the reloads dump the powder in the garden if you aren't sure what it is and rebuild with a known safe book load. 35 in-lbs or so on the screws if not pillared, 50 in-lb with pillars. For the pressure point, every rifle is different, doesn't matter who's name is on it. Some want pressure, most don't in my experience. I'd float it to try and it is easy enough to add a pad if needed. Carefully inspect the crown and touch it up if in doubt. I've never had a Wby, but a sporter barrel will heat up quickly when you burn that much powder through.

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memtb...I have three of Roy's rifles. I agree with what gzig5 says..he is 100% right. Try some factory rounds and then reload that brass. I free-floated all three of mine, then worked up some good grouping handloads. Your buddy will like that rifle.


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Be sure your front rest is directly under or, at most, 2" forward of the recoil lug.


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The first thing I do when I get a new rifle is to clean the bore down to bare metal, but no matter what the provenance...I would not shoot someone else's reloads even if JHC himself loaded them.


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Weatherbys can be touchy, with light barrels, free-bore and enough barrel heat to brand cattle.

Try keeping the barrel cold and see what you get. Another is try TSXs. Nothing likes jumping like a TSX.

My own .270 'Bee (Accu-Mark) likes a 130 grain TSX or TTSX or not much else. Given one of those bullets powder doesn't matter much but 7828 is the fastest so I went with that. 73.5 Grains if you are interested. A friend has an older one he inherited from his father that was likewise picky. I directed him toward TSXs and he found his own way to 73 grains of 7828. Killed an elk the other day with it.

Not being able to stay on paper at 200 yards sounds more like a scope or mounting problem than a load/gun problem.

Last edited by Model70Guy; 09/12/14.

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MY own Jap Mk5 in 270 mag likes 73 gr 7828,fed 215 primers and 150 gr Hornady SP's in Wthby brass. Found the load in Horn#4 manual. Make sure your torque is right on the action screws as mentioned above. Magnum man

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My jap 270 why was a little fussy. It also likes the 150 hornady spire point.
But, it really really loves the 140 swift a frame. Both those driven by Max loads of 7828 or re25.

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Any updates on this?


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