Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Predators and Varmints Teach me about Snares

I ordered a dozen coyote snares and guide wires. I've never snared before but after witnessing the worst deer season in my life this year, I've decided the coyotes need to be thinned out in a big way.

Does anyone have any tips or "do's and dont's" about snaring coyotes?

I'd buy one of the trapping books on snaring coyotes, you should be able to get one at Minn. Trappers supply. The book will have good pictures and explanations of sets. no

You'll need a trapping license and I don't know if the law has changed but you used to need a permit from the local warden to hang snares.

Like most things, everyone has their own idea's but a 10" loop hung 8"-10" off the ground on a known trail's a good place to start. Coyotes are stronger than you'd think so stake it down good or tie it to a tree if that's on option.
Just remember, snare's are like bullets, in that you can't take em back or release non target game.

There's always YouTube if you don't mind sorting through the BS.

Luck

If your hanging in any trail that a deeer might use be sure and use deer stops on your snare and a jump stick over them.

Understand the difference between a snare and a cable restraint and which the law allows.

Go with a killing lock such as a camlock or even better add a Senneker spring on the snare vs a washer lock. I personally have 7X7 GAC 3/32 cable set up with camlocks some filed and some not.

As for hight what FieldGrade said is good advice with the size of the loop varying with what size coyote you want to catch along with other non-target species.

One thing that gets overlooked is the use of bait with snares (if legal). Set your bait in a grassy area and allow the coyotes to feed at first undisturbed. Then once they have established trails through the grass heavily set those trails.

Thing like a coyote. How would you get from point A to B with minimal movement but while being concealed. That might be creek bottoms, field edges, and of course established trails.

With field edges if there is some natural feature that would make the coyote move around it like a over turned tree set on the edge of that. For trails try to find a natural bottle neck or neck the trail down yourself.

One thing that I have noticed over the years of waterfowl hunting is that game, at least the deer, seem to use the trails we make through the woods heavily. So there is nothing wrong with making your own trail. Animals will take the path of least resistance and will follow your path. Works in woods, grass, or snow.

For material I would recommend Tom Miranda's DVD's at the very least get volume 3 but preferably get volume 1 to. I would also recommend the book The Snareman by Leonard Pavek.

I got a lot of good advice from John Graham's video.. FieldGrade gave you a lot of good info too.

I've been looking at Youtube and I got an instructional video with the snares. I'll watch that as well. I just know there is a lot of experience and wisdom here on the fire and thought I would pick your brains. Thanks for the replies and the tips so far guys!

Oh and my snares do have the deer stops on them.

Just remember, Deer Stops let em pull a foot out, not their head.
I only say this because killing Deer instead of Coyotes defeats your intentions and if a Deer sticks it's head in a loop it'll kill it. Period.

No offence but snares really aren't for beginners .
I'd start with leg holds if I were you.

Jump sticks aren't always a good idea especially with deer stops that are designed to release leg caught deer. Jump sticks may cause fawns to go under rather than over. If you are worried about catching deer it might not hurt to also put a BAD(break away device) like a j-hook or s-hook designed to break away at a certain amount of pounds.

Here in Michigan you can only snare on private land in the months of January & February. All of my snaring is in winter deer yards on deer runs, I always use jump sticks. And have only caught one fawn and was released, to be seen several hours later at the feeder in my back yard.

I never have a jump stick higher than 18" using a 2" diameter stick wired across the run. Some of my jump sticks have caught coyotes 8 years in a row.

I will also never gut deer in the woods, but do it in the barn so I can use it for bait. Also saving bones to be wired to a tree pre season baiting at a convenient location. If there is snow on the ground I will walk about 100 yard circle around the bait and will come back and set snares where coyotes cross my tracks.

When traveling on snowmobile if I see coyote tracks coming on or crossing the trail a snare will be set off the trail far enough that it cannot be easily seen from the trail. The deeper the snow the better the chance a coyote will walk in the same spot again.

I use a small snow shovel and one of those round dusters that look like a coyotes tail to cover my tracks after making a set.

too bad there isn't more snow right now. they are much easier to snare when you can snare them in their trails in deep snow.

Can you get some big baits? If you know farmers that have lost a cow or pig and will give it away? Or if you watch on the highways and roads for road killed deer and other animals.

Haul them out to a spot in the woods near trails. Then set up the trails with your nooses.

Make sure to read the Minnesota Snaring Regs and follow them with regard to how big the noose can be, and how far off the ground, and make sure you have a name tag on them.

Best way to position them is with #9 wire, although #11 can be used as well.

My suggestion is to first read up on local/state trapping regulations.

Next learn how to avoid non target species (dogs) if they are in the area.

Learn all you can on the target species.
I did some low quality trapping many years ago and soon realized coyotes were NOT stupid as I was. Wish I knew then what I know now,and wish I could trap now to improve my limited knowledge.

Locate, collect and learn to use scat found at scent posts as a challenge to local coyote.

I think you will enjoy the extra time in the field.

Carry that light rifle to take the occasional coyote, fox, cat you stumble across.

Prep and sell the pelts.

Oh I've trapped with leg holds in the past. Just never with snares. I know the dangers of catching non-target animals and how to try and avoid that. In fact the reason that I haven't done it in the past is due to the fact that my cousin had a large farm dog that roamed the land I plan on setting snares. He died now and I haven't ever seen another dog on the property. I have been reading and learning a lot on other sites as well as watching videos. I want to be as prepared as I can be before I set them out.

Hence the reason for this thread.

There is a good snaring thread over on trapperman.com.

State regulations are strict where you are.

Yep.. Lots of good info over there.

What type of snares did you get?

I'm about half way through the 29 page snaring thread on Tman.

Ben,
I've seen you on there.

Here is the description of what I bought:

Dakota Line Coyote Snaring Package

The Dakota Line Coyote Snaring Package gives you everything you need to get started snaring coyotes. This coyote snaring package includes:

1 dozen Ghost Rider Coyote Snares -- These snares come with one way cam locks, #9 gauge swivels, support collars, and are made from 84" of 3/32" 7 x 7 steel cable. Each snare is cleaned and dyed an earth tone black with Dakota Line dip. These snares are line-ready.

Each snare is loaded to make it fast. What is loading? Loading is the memory that is put into the cable of each snare. It makes these snares fast. A fast snare equals more animals waiting for you when you check the line.

1 dozen Support Wires -- Support wires have changed snaring. Years ago trappers would look for a trail that went by a tree or a bush that they could hang their snare on. Their set locations were very limited. With support wires trappers pick the best location on the trail, drive the support wire into the ground and hang the snare. It's simple.

Redman Snare Tool -- This implement is designed for you to put your support wire in the ground.

Instructional Snaring Video -- This 40 minute coyote DVD will get you started snaring. It explains the basics of snaring and also shows you how to set up a trail. In this video you go on the line and see a coyote snared. The video goes into detail about lethal and non-lethal sets.

I also ordered the 3' snare extensions with the S hook for attaching to trees/posts.

Well what the heck? I just realized this thread should be in the trapping forum. Ooops

I was going to get some of the "snareshop" snares - but got tired of driving out an hour, and back a second hour - jus to check my traps.

that gets old really quick when you have to work everyday, and aren't doing it for money.

Remember, coyotes are probably five time smarter than you think they are. If it's legal, set up a baiting station and give them a pass for a couple weeks, then snare the area heavy. Don't forget the chin lift, the deer stop and use lots of camo on both sides of the set.