Different things I know... But does anyone bare shaft tune? Do you also nock tune?
I've not done either. But being out of bowhunting for 10'ish years, I'm watching some videos and reading some articles. The YouTube videos from The Ranch Fairy are pretty damn interesting on the subjects. And they make sense.
I bare shaft tune. At least on my current setup I did. Pick you point weight and start with full length shafts. Ranch Fairy has several good videos on the subject.
Bareshaft as well. Have done both, bareshaft tuning is more consistent imo.
I bare shaft tune. I think it is more important in trad bows and the farther from center the riser is cut the pickier they are about being perfectly tuned for perfect flight.
Bareshaft as well. Have done both, bareshaft tuning is more consistent imo.
I guess I didn't word it correctly....I'm not asking about "either/or." Watching the Ranch Fairy videos, he's suggesting both actually.
I've never heard of it until doing the new bow research. I'll be doing it for sure. It also looks like I'm under spined on my current set up.
I'm shooting 28" arrows, 62# draw with 400 shafts. It looks like I should be using 340 or 300's even.
If you have great form and have bare shaft tuned perfectly, you can group bare shafts right with fletched shafts at 40 yards. I can't imagine why it would also be necessary to nock tune or how it would add to your tuned arrows.
Once you bare shaft and get it perfect, then You worry about nock tuning if fletch clearance becomes an issue. That’s my understanding. Every once in a while you get 1 or 2 arrows that won’t group with the rest. That’s when I would start screwing with the nock alignment.
If you have great form and have bare shaft tuned perfectly, you can group bare shafts right with fletched shafts at 40 yards. I can't imagine why it would also be necessary to nock tune or how it would add to your tuned arrows.
Watch the Ranch Fairy.
Once you bare shaft and get it perfect, the. You worry about nock tuning if fletch clearance becomes an issue. That’s my understanding. Every once in a while you get 1 or 2 arrows that won’t group with the rest. That’s when I would start screwing with the nock alignment.
That's carbon arrows for you.
Also the reason I fletch with the same 3 colors. If an arrow will not group with the rest I can twist the nock to a different fletch as my coxk.frather and see if that brings it into the group.
Get a spine tester and the nock tuning can be done at a bench. It will also reveal what arrow manufacturers to avoid.
If you have great form and have bare shaft tuned perfectly, you can group bare shafts right with fletched shafts at 40 yards. I can't imagine why it would also be necessary to nock tune or how it would add to your tuned arrows.
My experience also with traditional bows. But I will video, which is similar to paper nock tuning.
Bareshaft tune. You'll have to do some searching here but I've posted quite a bit of content from when I had my shop. As for Ranch Fairy....what a joke.
Little tip about nock tuning. Nock tuning should be done when you first get a new dozen shafts. You're looking for reaction of those shafts off the string. Not necessarily looking for perfect holes through paper. You just want every shaft making an identical hole through the paper. Mark the top side of each arrow once this is achieved and fletch. That's the proper way to nock tune.
I don’t do either. I paper tune with fletched arrows.
If you have great form and have bare shaft tuned perfectly, you can group bare shafts right with fletched shafts at 40 yards. I can't imagine why it would also be necessary to nock tune or how it would add to your tuned arrows.
My experience also with traditional bows. But I will video, which is similar to paper nock tuning.
I adjust nock placement on the string and have even added wraps or wire to the nock end to bare shaft tune flight, but I don't paper tune and neither did world champion trad archers I knew when I was shooting competition.
Walk back tuning is something I think more folks should do. I never hear or see that emphasized. I do that and do not bare shaft or paper tune. I depend upon my groupings. If something doesn't seem to let me group well, I go to a professional.
I don’t do either. I paper tune with fletched arrows.
this is the more correct way to understand the flight of your arrows always at different distances with a back tension release only.
Bare shaft but with wraps of tape to compensate for the weight of the fletching. I also Ike electrical connection shrink tube.
I start with a bare shaft, but end with a broached tune, as I have found even with a good bare shaft tune Broadheads, (including mechs) will often have a slightly different poi. At the end of the day I am shooting the animal with a broad head so where that hits is more important to me than anything else.
Bare shaft but with wraps of tape to compensate for the weight of the fletching. I also Ike electrical connection shrink tube.
Old wives tale. Tape isn't needed. That's over 1k bows tuned.
Walk back tuning is something I think more folks should do. I never hear or see that emphasized. I do that and do not bare shaft or paper tune. I depend upon my groupings. If something doesn't seem to let me group well, I go to a professional.
Walk back tuning? Why? A bow is a machine. It' has a "sweet spot". Bareshaft tuning done the right way(no paper involved) will provide you the absolute best tune setting for your bow. If you start having right/left issues at distance, go back to 20yds and reverify tune. Past that, it's YOU. NOT the bow. Done this tuning stuff over 20yrs. Have tuned bows for several members here. Including Rick Bin and JJ Hack. Well over 1k bows set up and tuned. I never need to walk back or group or broadhead tune once I'm done.
Paper tune, then put a broadhead on and tune the bow to shoot properly with a fixed blade broadhead to achieve the same POI as a field point…
No reason to do anything else
I just paper tune with a complete arrow.
Bare shaft paper tune first.
Check again after fletching.