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I picked up some 125gr blunt screw-in points from 3Rivers. Put them on some carbon 600 shafts that shoot well with field points, using the 35# Slick Stick.

Shot a few pine cones on the ground. That went well, tips didn't bury too far in the turf.

Shot a tree stump, and set the insert back into the shaft, splaying out the carbon for about 1/8". I cut off the bad part, saved the insert, and glued it back in.




So the question is, what works good for stumping, without destroying shafts?
I just looked to see what the arrow wall thickness is on a 600 spine.
Found nothing.

Had good luck stump shooting w 400s and judo points. 55# bow.
Arrows were cut w a good saw and run w reg inserts.

But...............I had an extra 50 gr weight added behind the reg alum insert so total surface area was greater.
Maybe helped on impacts.Added approx 50% surface area.


I'm shooting the Gold Tip Warrior 600 on this one. ID - .246, OD - .282. Wall thickness should then be around .018".

Maybe a point collar is in order here.
Most of my stump shooting is with wood shafts, however I do like judo points for that application to limit penetration. I do feel like I break fewer shafts using them and they're available in glue on for wood and screw in for carbon/aluminum. Might be worth a try...
Rubber blunts.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Originally Posted by MontanaMarine
I picked up some 125gr blunt screw-in points from 3Rivers. Put them on some carbon 600 shafts that shoot well with field points, using the 35# Slick Stick.

Shot a few pine cones on the ground. That went well, tips didn't bury too far in the turf.

Shot a tree stump, and set the insert back into the shaft, splaying out the carbon for about 1/8". I cut off the bad part, saved the insert, and glued it back in.




So the question is, what works good for stumping, without destroying shafts?


Before I did anything else I would look on the internet for pictures of people's hands who shot cracked arrows.
I use judo points and footed shafts.
1.5" XX75 shaft sleeve glued over end of my graphite arrows, behind insert.
Just need to know the size matchups. Buy one aluminium shaft, cut with cut off saw, use a good glue.

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108926.0
Originally Posted by WTM45
I use judo points and footed shafts.
1.5" XX75 shaft sleeve glued over end of my graphite arrows, behind insert.
Just need to know the size matchups. Buy one aluminium shaft, cut with cut off saw, use a good glue.

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108926.0


^^^ this. The aluminum collar makes no difference in arrow flight and will save you countless arrows if you like shooting stumps. I'd suggest having some dedicated to stumps and then some without the collars for shooting 3D. Getting the collared arrows out of a new 3D can be a PITA.

BTW - I only use 3/4 to 1" collars.
Thanks for all the great feedback.
Get a Nerf ball about the size of a Youth soccer ball and toss it out in front of you. Shoot, retrieve your errors, toss it again. Rinse, repeat. Judo points work well, as do old-fashioned rubber blunts over steel blunts. Both will futz up a target though.
I always shoot woodies out of my trad bows. A judo tip is the only way to go for me. Last couple of years, I've been buying kids' stuffed animals from the local thrift store to use as targets. They seem to last forever and I can usually get them for 50 cents a piece.
You'd better hope PETSA (people for the ethical treatment of stuffed animals) doesn't find out about that.

Be a great YouTube video.
I was looking at the judo and rubber points. I probably need to pick up a few of them. I can see where they absorb some of the shock of impact, unlike the steel 'wadcutter' looking blunts I chose.

The stuffed animal and nerf ball sound like great targets.

I was looking at some of the 3D targets. The prices for the better quality ones seem redonkulous.
I'm getting better shooting these stick bows, as I go along. Put a new skin on the bag target. Here's a group of three I managed at 14 yards, in the garage yesterday. And yes, that is the hex I was aiming for....grin. Bow is the 35# Slick Stick.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I'm really enjoying this new venture into the traditional bow.
After a few arrows vs cedar stumps, I quickly learned that "stump" shooting means shoot everything except actual stumps! I shoot at leaves, pine cones, hedge apples, sticks, etc. with my trad bows and carbon arrows. Pretty much anything laying in the woods, except directly into stumps or trees themselves.
^^^ that's what I'm learning.

I've ruined two 600 carbon shafts, and the lesson is sinking in.....grin
Originally Posted by MontanaMarine
I've ruined two 600 carbon shafts, and the lesson is sinking in.....grin


Only two? You're a faster learner than I was! grin
judo is your friend!!
Originally Posted by jds44
After a few arrows vs cedar stumps, I quickly learned that "stump" shooting means shoot everything except actual stumps! I shoot at leaves, pine cones, hedge apples, sticks, etc. with my trad bows and carbon arrows. Pretty much anything laying in the woods, except directly into stumps or trees themselves.



Yep, and if you pick a rock on a dirt bank, it best be a small one. "Winning" at that game gets expensive quick.
Try Nerf shooting. Get a Nerf soccer ball. It's about the same size as the vitals on a deer. Use a wire to run a 3' rope through it and tie if off with a large washer. With a good throw and a better bounce, it can fly as far as 50 or 60 yds. Shoot it where it lies. No cheating.
Use field points. Blunts, steel or rubber, will shred the ball in no time but it'll last quite a while with field points. If you hit it, the arrow will usually only go 1/2 way through and flip it, stopping the arrow, so you don't lose them....IF you hit it. It stops them much better than you might think.
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