Hi when using near max loads in a 300 Weatherby how many repeat lods before you have to scrap the brass? Thanks

No ready answer. If you anneal and your brass isn't too ample for your chamber, and you more or less headspace off the shoulder, I've had to scrap mine at around 11 reloads.

I scrap when the primer pockets loosen. I’ve had some Federal 300 Win Mag brass give up after three reloads, four shots total. Some Winchester brass in the same round have lasted forever it seems....probably 10 firings before I volunteer them for the recycling facility. I didn’t want to take any chances, thinking I had gotten my money’s worth out of them.

My 280 AI, which I don’t really hot rod, uses Nosler (Federal?) brass which will usually start getting loose after 5 firings. I can usually squeeze two more reloadings out of them before I toss em. Nosier told me they DO outsource their 280AI brass because of the fire forming required. I asked if Federal provided the brass and they would neither confirm nor deny it was Federal brass, looking down and shuffling their feet. From the expression on the Nosler rep’s face...it was Federal.

Now in my magnums I do everything in my power to obtain Norma brass and things seem to last longer.

When was this?

Thank You i was thinking of cases separating.I have never loaded the belted mag but remember reading about cases separating after too many resizing cycles. Dan

Much could have to do with the quality of brass.. Hagel found WW brass much better for making .340 WM brass than the stuff Norma was producing.. That is what I used for my .340 No problems yet.. I have loaded for Mag.cases all my life, and have had a few cases separate but a crack was easy to spot when loading.. After a few of those, I would discard that lot...

If you adjust your sizing die to only bump the shoulder back .002" from the length of a fired case shoulder, your brass will last a lot longer!
If you spin the sizing die down to the shell holder and give it an 1/8th turn more, you'll likely buy a lot more brass due to case separation ...

Good advice and im sure when you reference WW brass, you are talking about 60's, 70'and maybe 80's brass. The chidt they make now days is garbage. R-P was way better than WW in the 90's and early 2000's, as well.

Yep, adjust your sizing die for minimal shoulder set-back and you are much better off. I generally bump the shoulder back about .003" with my magnums, since they are strictly hunting cartridges. Especially the 300WBY.

And for the icing on the cake you can have a die that doesn't sufficiently size the case just forward of the belt.

bsa, Yes, it was that time period.. I think my latest is Rem... Don't go thru brass like I did from 40 to 60 years if age,,,

Get a neck sizing die only, as long as you only load that brass in that rife. The initial stretch is the first firing. After it has been fired it fits the chamber of that rifle. If you full length size it will keep streching to fit the chamber. Neck sizing only lets it stretch once. Would get over 10 reloads in a 300 H&H, less perhaps if you go MAX loads all of the time. Primer pocket will be the first to go. Quality brass of course.

NRA. Annual meeting a couple of years ago

Yep, I hear you. Especially the magnum stuff too. Ha ha.. I've cut way back myself... I used to sit at the bench and fire off 50 rounds of 338wm. Now I only shoot my 338 when I'm working up a load and shooting at elk. That means not a whole lot of ammo going through that barrel, as of late.

We have two 700s in .300 Roy, also a Mk5. The 700s are blessed with relatively short chambers so stretch on first firing is minimal. Case life is excellent. The Mk5 chamber is sloppier. Case life is poor unless we use a .338" expander to create a false shoulder on new brass for the first firing.

I have brass for the 7mm STW I've shot 20 times. When I size it, I work the cases as minimally as possible.

Loading belted brass: Much like others posted above I partially re-size my brass. The way I do it is to repeatably lower the die, then chamber the empty brass until I feel just the very slightest "crush" when lowering the bolt. Seemed to help with accuracy, not 100% sure about repeated brass loadings since I haven't had many rejects. This was with 240 Weatherby Norma and Weatherby brass.

I get about five, but load for multiple rifles in the same caliber. I full length size mine.

You still have to adjust a neck sizing die so that it does not push the shoulder back too much. Otherwise you will still get case head separations.
Paul B.

So similar to what @colodog and some others have said but let me add to that.

Speaking to RCBS support, size it like any other die.

Speaking to the Sierra bulletsmiths, Partial Full Length size.

PRS shooter at my range anneals and get an insane number of reloads. Like over 100.

I have a general rule that if the brass can it to 5 loadings total, I trash it after the fifth.

I would look up Partial Full Length sizing. I made the mistake once if saying it's neck sizing with a FL die...it's not. It's how I load my belted cases

There was a specialized die manufacturer 25 years ago that offered a collet type die that only sized the area in front of the belt .

I , for the life of me can’t remember the name but I think they are now out of business …. It wasn’t Vickerman .

I suppose I could go through my old Rifle/Handloader magazines and find the name .

Larry Willis

https://www.larrywillis.com/

Innovative Technologies … Yup , that’s it .

Damn , you’re good .

I came close to buying one a number of years ago, but I was able to find a workaround. I wasn't doing high volume loading for the rifle in question so I didn't make the purchase.