Just picked up a Marlin 336 in a trade of sorts. Had a Savage 24V once but never loaded for it. Found some Fiocchi ammo loaded with Interlocks and have some other stuff coming from the deal. I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth my while to buy dies and hunt for bullets to fill ‘em back up after I’ve emptied them.

Does the brass last through two or three reloadings? If so, that would tip the balance in favor of getting setup. Not sure I’ll be shooting this all that much for fun, and if I run out I have lots of options.

The other question is, is there any accuracy advantage to handloading for the pre-safety, Micro-Groove 336?

Haven’t shot it yet, so part of the mystery is about how much I’m going to like shooting it. If I decide I really like it, that may be the tipping point. Cast bullets will do for that, and there are lots of good ones available, unlike jacketed right now.

Thanks.

Loaded .30-30 mostly for micro-groove 336s. Did 13 boxes for a friend recently. No problem beating factory load accuracy with jacketed bullets.

I never get to maximum book loads. One of my favorites is 31 gr IMR-4064 behind a 170 gr FN. Usually close to 2000 fps.

Never failed to get 3 loadings at that power level. And with FL sizing. Could probably extend case life by minimizing shoulder bump.

But chambers are individuals. So a long chamber could result in excess case stretch first firing. I would address that same way I deal with long belted mag chambers. Fresh brass, create a faux shoulder, then minimal shoulder bump rest of the way.

I think you will like the .30-30. Just plain fun. Jacketed bullets are available again. Multiple vendors have the Hornady 170 gr FN.

Wouldn't worry about brass case life.....

You'll most likely lose them on the wet forest floor while filling your deer tag before you wear 'em put

Accuracy ? The earlier pre safety was built prior to 1983 is just more desirable by some

Ballard style rifling will have these on the barrel '*****'

Some say to crimp bullets.......some not.....I crimp all lever gun ammo

Lee makes a good budget die set

http://marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm

Thanks guys.

I have 8 reloads on my batch of 30-30 brass. These are used in levergun silhouette matches.

Maybe, but I’m one of those guys who tries very hard to catch them on the way out. Gonna need some practice!

Never noticed 30-30 being hard on brass . I really can't remember losing a case other than losing it to the leaves in the woods.

The biggest contribution to case life in mine (A Winchester M94 built in 1970) was just setting the shoulder back .003" instead of "shellholder contact plus a quarter turn".

Mine headspaces fine on the rim, but they were a little generous cutting the shoulder area. I don't have to trim as often bumping the shoulder just enough to feed and lock up without extra effort.

I don't know that it's worth reloading with jacketed bullets from an accuracy/performance standpoint. I get consitent sub MOA performance from both my 170 gr. handloads and 170 gr. federal Power Shok factory loads. Forget traditional .30-30 powders like 3031 or 4064 and get you some Leverevolution or CFE 223. I'm getting 2240 fps and 3/4" 100 yard groups with a book max load of CFE 223 behind a 170 gr. Sierra out of my 20" Marlin. I loaded with 3031 and 4064 for years and while I could get comparable accuracy, I didn't get close to that velocity.

With ammo prices where they are now I find it worthwhile to reload.

I shoot some cast so I have everything I need to reload jacketed ammo.

Same here, LVR and a 170 Speer/Hornady is 2290 from my M94 Winchester. Shoots great too.

I get good accuracy, 2 MOA or less, from factory ammo in any of my 8 30-30 shooters; 3 Marlin 336s, 2 Mosseberg 472s, 2 Savage 170s, and 1 Savage 99.

I have dies for the 30-30 because when I started loading for it, it was in a Savage 99 and I wanted ot use pointed bullets, but I don't shoot that much 30-30 ammo in the course of a year, or need to improve the accuracy level enough, to make reloading for it worth the effort. If I shot more than 50 or 60 rounds of 30-30 per year, or found the accuracy wanting, I probably would make the efforts to reload.

I bought a couple hundred rounds of Hornady LeverEvolution factory ammo when Dick's was closing out their firearms and ammo back in 2018, so I'm good for awhile yet.

FWIW, I have almost always found the 170 grain factory ammo from FED/REM/WIN to be slightly more accurate, on average, than their comparable 150 grain loads. The 160 grain Hornady has been the most accurate 30-30 factory ammo that I have yet to shoot.

I've had a couple of Savage 24Vs in 30-30 over 20 gauge and thought that they were a good woodsloafing or truck gun.

Since the 30-30 head spaces on the rim, as mentioned you treat it like belted magnums sizing, and you will get acceptable case life. As for trying to get more velocity by switching powders, using 3031 and such will give you enough to let the 30-30 bullets perform as they should. The 30-30 is not a high velocity cartridge and manufactures design and sell bullets for it or lead cast will work. The 30-30 has been doing it for for about a hundred years.

My 1936 Winchester 30-30 Model 94 had no trouble killing elk with 170 gr semi jacketed bullets and 3031. Deer fell over pretty quick too.

I’ve got 4064 and CFE .223, and know where to find LVR. The ammo I ordered is 150gr, probably better for our smallish deer, and I have a couple of notifications set for the Interlocks. That ammo, BTW, was $29 a box w/ free shipping and IIRC the cheapest in-stock I saw.

As an aside, while looking for bullets, I saw Nosler BTs for the .30/30 at over $.80 a pop. That’s bullets, not ammo. Doodness dwaciuos Puddy Tat!

Yeah, Nosler. Hornady 170s are around half that.

If you don't mind sacrificing 150 fps for no gain in accuracy, then there's certainly nothing wrong with sticking with 3031. I hung a lot of deer on the meat pole with .30-30 bullets that were propelled by it over the years. As for me, I'll take the extra 150 fps.. Since from what I've seen, expansion and penetration are exemplary, accuracy is superb and trajectory flattened a bit, I just can't see a downside. BTW, every Marlin .30-30 I've owned showed a distinct preference for 170 gr. bullets so if accuracy with the 150's leaves you less than satisfied, give them a try.

That is a crazy price for a cup and core bullet.

Probably true , but figuring most 30-30's are a 200 yard gun at max, and most lever guns are not known for 1/2 MOA accuracy, that 150 fps isn't buying anyone much. I have a few rifles where 150 fps or even a 100 can tweak accuracy a bit. Those rifles I am shooting 300-350 yards at times.

f I can drive a 170 gr bullet thru an elk broadside, finding the bullet under the hide on the far side (which I have), I guess that is as much penetration as I need. Really 2MO accuarcy at 100 yards will put any bullet in the kill zone and can split the heart. My loads shot about 1&1/2 MOA which is about the best I can do with ron sights . I'm not one to try to wring out the fastest loads my rifles can tolerate Probably just me though and don't begrudge those that do. I am only offering what has worked for me

They tend to last a long time.

I have had a 30-30 since 1977 and still shoot brass that was made at least 20 years before i got it.

With cast bullets it should last a lifetime or until you lose it.

Lots of good info based on experience here. Thanks.

Originally was of the mind to shoot up the ammo included in deal and then sell it, but now I’m getting the fever. It’s kinda heavy, 10oz more than my M70 EW, but it’s piqued my interest. The stock needs refinishing, but the metal looks pretty good and the insides are very clean. Clearly it was carried, maybe banged around a bit, but I’m gonna check it over and give it a chance. Already have dies on my shopping list.

The scope is a Cabelas Pine Ridge, doubtless NOT one of the Meoptas, the rings look solid, but no-name. If it shoots okay I have good replacements on hand for both.

Bought a 336C on a whim because never owned one. Although I reload all my centerfire rifles, I don't shoot a 30-30 enough to purchase dies and bullets. Maybe when I shoot up all my factory ammo, I may reload.

I have cases that's been reloaded since forever and can't remember wearing one out. I've never reloaded a jacketed bullet in my .30-30 and use RCBS .30-180FN in mine running close to 2000 fps utilizing H-414 powder. That is my most accurate load in every Marlin, Winchester, and Savage (.303) lever I've tried. I also use a Lee NSD and haven't needed to FLR but, keep cases segregated by rifle. It's the little Ace as TR once remarked!

Speaking of 30-30 brass, I was about to list some in the free classifieds. Winchester and Federal headstamps, at least 100 of each, once fired factory loads.
PM me if you want a first crack at it before I list it.

Cheers,
Rex

No thanks. I have 60 loaded coming tomorrow and another three or four boxes coming as part of the trade.

Thanks anyway. Good luck with the sale, though I doubt you’ll need it.

160gr FTX here...
https://www.bluecollarreloading.com...0395?_pos=1&_sid=8b26da87d&_ss=r

As stated----partial size the case (read--don't push the shoulder back) and anneal the case necks on a regular basis, the brass will last a long time.
I have brass that I have reloaded 20+times using that method.

No Brag----Just Fact!

Hip

I'm a 30/30 fan.. but like Bolt actions more than lever actions..

My Unicorn Rifle is a Model 54 in 30/30, or a Model 30S in 30 Remington...

But I've loaded 30/30 case twenty times or more...

annealing, not doing max loads, not over working the brass...

I'm guilty of loading a lot of hunting loads to be in the velocity range of the 30/30 to 300 Savage...

That is all I really need for deer 250 yds and closer...

You will like the cartridge....unassuming and gets the job done at moderate velocity. I had 0 .30 WCF rifles and in one package deal with a Winchester collector getting out of the game, bought 3 model 94's!

All commemorative models, but the 16" trapper model was the main prize for a woods rambling rifle. I bought several boxes of Speer Hot Cor 170's awhile back, but I also load my own cast lead bullets for Penetrators in Bear country.

Good luck!


Frog----OUT!

I think you should be able to get 10+ loadings on 3030 brass if you keep it SAAMI pressures.

I load my .30-30 hunting ammo with 28gr. 3031 and a 190gr. soft cast bullet. Velocity is right at 2000fps out of my Winchester M54 with 24" barrel. (With a 10x Unertl mounted on it for bench work it'll consistently do 3/4MOA with that bullet, more like 1 1/2MOA when using its Lyman 48 receiver sight.) Case life is great because I don't full length size, and the gun exhibits minimal headspace (nor do I crimp because the rounds won't have to take a beating in a tube magazine, but that's neither here nor there).

Okay, I’m in. Fiocchi ammo landed yesterday, dies and trimmer pilot on the way. Waiting to see how the Interlocks shoot before I try other bullets, but I saw some interesting load data for cast in my books.

Thanks again to all.

Depends, as others have stated/implied, on whether your Marlin has Micro-groove or Ballard rifling, Pappy, whether or not cast bullets in it can be an exercise in frustration. If it has Micro-grooves, there's a pretty narrow band of hardness, bullet shape, and velocity that'll work in it. If Ballard-style rifling then the sky's the limit. Been down that road, got the T-shirt which is now used to wax the car.

Oh it’s a Micro-Groove for certain. Cast would probably be for practice and general fun. Might try some coated ones or LC, which are harder than woodpecker lips and haven’t leaded anything of mine yet.

This one will have to get in line for the woods anyway. There’s quite a few ahead of it, although I might just grab any ol’ thing on any ol’ day.

33 grains of Unique, case life, one shot...

action life, ZERO....... AFTER one shot from 33 grains of Unique...