Ok guys, be gentle ha, 7mm rem mag reloading. I have read so many damn threads and watch plenty videos on reloading belting cases my head hurts. I have about 50 pieces of brass (Hornady and Remington) but I can purchase virgin brass if needed. I also have 2 different 7mags. Tikka T3 Lite and a Browning A-bolt2, but after reading and watching all the videos, I should have kept the brass separate so that it was formed to each chamber independently. I didn’t know that at the time, so oh well. Have to work with what I have.

So correct me if I’m wrong. Well just say I’m using the Tikka.
1) Shoot factory ammo in Tikka. It should stretch and form to the Tikka chamber.
2) It may be allowed to chamber but may require trimming.
3) It may also take 2-3 firings before I notice resistance when closing the bolt. Now the Brass will need to be worked.
4) At this time I should bump the neck back .002” and neck size only. That way you minimize working the brass too much, but it also allows you to now headspace off the shoulder rather than the belt. This step is where opinions differ. Some say FL resize, while others will back the die off about 1 turn, color or “soot” the neck shoulder area. In small increments, neck size the die until it gets close to the shoulder then bump the shoulder back .002”. FL resizing and trimming creates more bulge at the belt and case head separation issues.
5) I’ve seen RCBS dies, Redding and Lee Collet dies that folks have used. Anyone better than the other? I’m using 308 RCBS dies in my Hornady Lock N Load press. Haven’t bought the dies yet so open to all options.
6) Larry Willis collet die? Some say it’s a must have, others say it a very good tool but not needed and have hardly used it.

So as you can see, I could be on the right track and then again I could be all over the place. So any help you guys can provide would sure be appreciated.

Just treat it like any other chambering. In step 4), adjust your FL die (I prefer Forster) to bump the shoulder 0.002-0.003”. Done.

I use a FL sizer and bump the shoulder back .002" every time I size for everything I load for.

I used cheap Herter's dies for a lot of 7mag reloads years ago. I never fl sized any of it. I did trim and anneal it. Elk and deer never seemed to notice.

Both techniques are considered FL sizing. One is the wrong way (usually as indicated in the instructions from die manufacturers - e.g. FL die should contact the shell holder and then some) and the correct way (back off die and than then progressively screw die in).

Bought and sold a Larry Willis collet die - just never needed it. Had .264 Win Mag, 300 Win Mag, .338 Win Mag, and .375 Taylor.

My recommendation: Redding body die (for FL sizing) and Lee collet (for neck sizing).

The Larry Willis collet die is not a necessity in many, if not most cases. I've loaded many belted rounds without needing one. If your regular FL die set for .002" shoulder bump allows for smooth chambering brass then it's all you need. The Willis collet die comes into play if you've got a chamber/brass/die combination that allows the case to get fat enough just ahead of the belt to affect smooth chambering.

This is how I set up my sizing die for bottleneck cartridges.

1. Take a once fired factory round and blacken the neck and shoulders with a Magic Marker or Sharpee pen. Some people like to smoke the neck and shoulder, but I find the Magic Marker/Sharpee pen a bit better.

2. Carefully lubricate the case.

3. Loosen the lock ring on the sizing die and back off about two turns from when the die is set to touch the shell holder.

4. Size the case. Note where the marks are on the case and turn the die down about a half a turn and size again. Turn down some more, and resize again. What you are looking for is the marks on the blackening just touching the shoulder.

5. Clean the lube from the case and try it in the rifle. It may chamber just a bit on the snug side. If so, turn the die down ever so slightly, lube and size again. Wipe off the lube and try in the rifle. If it slides in as easily as a factory round, you should be good to go. If not, usually one more very slight adjustment should fix the problem.

6. Tighten the locking ring for the die and you're done. You have just set your sizing die up for a custom fit to your specific rifle, rather than a generic one size fits all guns.

Paul B.

Holy crap yall are quick and johnny on the spot, Ha.

So I may try this when I get home just to see unless you guys say otherwise. I may try to chamber all of the once fired brass I have shot from both rifles just to see if they will all chamber in my Tikka. If they chamber with no resistance, does that mean the chambers in the A-bolt and the tikka are similiar enough to just do a neck size and bump or should I just FL resize from the get-go and start fresh?

Start with Virgin Brass and drive a positive headspaced false shoulder,out of the gate. From there,never move more brass than you have to. Hint.............

Same here. Set the die for the gun you wanna reload for and it’s a one time deal most of the time. 2-3 thou is great fit and you’ll likely never wear the brass out unless you’re hammering the heck out of it or you never anneal.

Good post scotty. I PFL using just run of the mill RCBS dies. Accuracy/precision is good enough for me:



7mm RM brass shown after sizing. Figured that would be the best representation for the op, since he's asking about that cartridge. Be sure to set your die with brass that has been fireformed to your chamber. I also have 2 7mm rem mags, but they are both Winchester model 70 classics and they look like the chambers have been cut with the same reamer. Got lucky on that one!!!

The shoulder bump is the key (.002-.003" is about perfect). I treat all of my belted mag brass just like any other brass. It shoots just the same as standard non belted stuff and feeds excellent. Never an issue.. Some guys want to make newbies think the belt is a hinderance, but that shows their lack of knowledge and experience.

It does make me laugh when folks piss and moan about a belt. It’s really nonexistent to me.

Yup, if starting with brass that has excessive headspace in the chamber in question, I always start with a false shoulder.

I thought when I first loaded for .300 WM it was going to be an issue when FL resizing, wrong! I just treated like any other cartridge and never had an issue.

All of the above is good advice. The only thing I will ad is that I never, not ever, resize a case without having the firearm there to check the sized brass in the chamber. I size a case down until there is a little resistance (in a bolt action) then screw the die in just a little (.001-.002) more. You can check how much you are setting back the shoulder with a caliper and appropriate size socket or or a dedicated tool if you want.

If the brass all chambers in the Tikka, then you know the A-bolt chamber is at least as tight as that in the Tikka. In that case, the AB-fired cases may have excessive headspace in the Tikka chamber, and I would measure the base-to-shoulder length of both using a pistol case (9mm Luger works great for the 7RM) slid over the 7RM case mouth to contact the shoulder. If the difference is more than 0.003" or so, I would use a false shoulder on the AB-fired cases.

A neck-size and bump is PFL-sizing, or FL-sizing to your chamber's dimensions. The "FL-sizing" referred to in the die instruction sheets usually means FL sizing to SAAMI specs, which is not what you want. The last thing you want is a "fresh start" if you've already fired-formed the brass in your chamber or if the brass fired in the AB chamber is longer than virgin (somewhere in-between virgin and fire-formed in the Tikka chamber, assuming the AB has a tighter chamber which it may not). As Stick said, you want to move as little brass as possible, in general.

My bitch with belted cartridges isn't the belt per se, but the amount of slop that is often present in the fit of new brass to chamber even when both chamber and brass are within specification.

Good post Blacktailer. That is very important. Now, I can generally gauge how much shoulder bump I'm getting with just the feel of resistance when you chamber a freshly sized piece of brass. But when you want to be gnats azz you can use a comparator or some guys will use something like a 40 S&W case and a caliper. I'll usually zero out my caliper and then your reading for set-back is right there with no guess work:


I'm more likely to do that with the ammo I load for my precision rifles though, or if you have multiple rifles chambered for the same cartridge. Its good to know the chamber dimensions of each rifle and how they compare. Most times you can get away with loading to the shortest chamber length with a .002" shoulder bump and still maintain good brass life. That is something the op should check, since he has 2 rifles chambered in 7mm rem mag..

Well just tried and they don't chamber in the tikka. No biggy, but at least now I know and to keep separate.

Beretzs, your correct thus me asking. Seems most on the web are just totally against the belt. And of the others I read or watched, seems like just another thing.

Jordan that's a good point. It seems that most of what I read about the complaints were due to saami specs. Seemsthat FL sizing to its specs works the brass too much and causes bulge at the belt. Thus the next firing, more stretch to fill chamber and thus thinning and head / case seperation. But I guess in saami defense, they are ensuring that it will chamber it all rifles.

So, basically by bumping the shoulder back .002" or so, your headspacing off the shoulder? In theory?

Some guys are always going to bitch about something. Again, I've never had any issues and I've shot and owned a chit ton of belted magnum rifles. You better just stick to your tried and true 308 mathman..

This is pretty much my mantra.

But I have purchased a lot of once-fired brass that I've annealed and meticulously sized as little as possible. I also separate ammo by the gun for which it's loaded. I prefer neck sizing in collet dies, as it reduces the need to trim cases.

I don't load any belted-cases anymore, but I never had an issue with them. The belt never caused any problems for me.

BSA I have the Hornady bullet comparator set. If the headstamp bushings will fit the anvil, I can pick those up as well.

Ditch the attitude. I was successfully loading belted magnums forty years ago.

The Virgin forming shot,is the one which compromises brass the most. I want total and finite control of headspace,from the first shot to the last,if only for safety,brass life and accuracy/precision. Hint.

BSA sucks a mean ass,as she GoogleFu's madly for a FIRST Clue,but she just can't ever connect a single fhuqking dot,by herself. Ask her how the 108's are doing? Hint.



Fhuqking LAUGHING!..............

This what they be talkin' about.

Some of my belted mag rifles have acceptable (to me) base to shoulder distance such that brass life does not suffer. Both my M700 .300 Roys are like that. 10 plus reloads easy-peasy. And that's with FL sizing to decent shellholder bump.

My .300 Win 700KSS and Dad's MkV .300 Roy are another matter. So I do the faux shoulder on those - with virgin brass - as Stick and Jordan Smith describe.

Why virgin brass? Cuz if the base to shoulder is sufficiently excessive cases are ruined on the first firing. There is no way to rehab such cases.

To create the faux shoulder on my .300s I run necks over a .338 WM expander, then through the .300 sizer backed off. Incrementally screw the die down till cases can be chambered with effort (not a hammer). After the first few firings, and if needed, I adjust the die further. Sometimes don't need to.

BTW, this issue (and the utility of a faux shoulder) is not exclusive to belted cartridges. Think .303 Enfields.

Also, some percentage of LC bulk brass purchases derives from max-spec 7.62x51 M240 chambers. As far as I'm concerned these pieces are ruined, so I ID and cull. ID them using a Wilson case gauge.....can do it by feel while watching the boob toob.

Yep - my .264 Win thinks it's a 7mm RM based on the headstamps that enter the chamber.

The headspace bushings will fit the same anvil. BSA appears to be using a 30 caliber bullet comparator bushing in his posted picture for some reason. Better than his trying to measure an air gap by feel though.

The Hornady headspace gauges are set to measure at the datum point at mid shoulder. The .420 diameter Headspace gauge is the proper one for your cases. If you have a .40 caliber insert, you will be close.

Ok, I'll look in to that.

^^^^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^


I started loading for belted cartridges in the early ‘80’s, before the internet was around to “make mountains of mole hills” and with assistance from a Lyman manual from the early’70’s. Due to my youth and inexperience, I followed the same procedures as I had the previous 15 or so years with non-belted cases!

In spite of myself, I managed to get my old Model 70 .375 H&H to grant me a few sub 3/4” 5 shot groups @ 100 yards…..with one group going under 1/2”! memtb

It is fascinatingly fhuqking HILARIOUS,that gross ineptitude and being a VERY sllooowwwwwww "learner",are "heralded" as "virtues". Read that again. Now one more time. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.................

If I had known that a belted case was different I might never have gotten my 300 wm in 1980. People do realize that even a 12.00 dollar Lee loader works. Right? Edk

Biden "works" too,for Dumb Fhuqks. You Drooling CLUELESS Fhuqks are a HOOT! Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!..............

Biden did whup corn pop....

You sure are getting sooty necks....

I agree, it is all over the map at times. My issue pretty much went away when I got the expander mandrel set from 22/416 caliber. Now it’s so easy just to neck up one caliber and size if to fit from the get go. I pretty much do it with everything larger than 223 nowadays. I feel like it saves me money since Brass with somewhat decent annealing seems to last forever.

Looks like you have two shoulders....

I shot a 7mm mag for years stoked full tilt....neck sized only without any issues. The primer pockets will be the first thing to go.

After about 3 loadings I just pitched the brass.

The belted magnums head space on the belt....why the need to bump the shoulder ?

You Fhuqktards REALLY should be taking notes and applying same. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!...............

If you’re blasting primer pockets in 3 firings shoulder bumping ain’t for you.

Why shoot a 7 mag if you not running it on the edge.

STUPIDITY has no "edge" and is simply to the fhuqking bone,as you obliviously quantify. Hint.

For even more oblivious HILARITY,cite the particulars of your "Edge" rifle and the ammo associated. Then dangle a picture of the Goat Fhuqk,to knock it out of the park. Dare ya'. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.............

You sort of missed the boat, here. Headspacing on the belt can cause excessive case stretch through the body, leading to case-head separation, etc. Creating a false shoulder allows the case to headspace on the false shoulder and fireform, so that it headspaces on the shoulder-proper on subsequent firings.

The bottom line is that brass lasts 15+ firings, if taken care of.

Only if it has excessive headspace in the first place (on the belt). Using the shoulder instead for headspacing can help fix this problem.

Not an option for something using a case without a shoulder, like 458WM for example, but the cases in a 458WM with proper headspace will last for yonks, until the neck cracks (typically).

Loading full power 7 mag loads the primer pockets will start seating too easy long before 15 firings.

Then you're beyond full power.

True, but that's often the case (see what I did there?) with belted magnums.

I'm not talking loose to the point of not staying in...I'm talking loose to the point that you can feel it when you seat the primer.

When you use a neck size die it doesn't touch the shoulder....essentially the case/shoulder is fire formed to the chamber so why the need to bump the shoulder unless you're having a clambering problem ?

Which I never had.

If you can just barely tell that the pocket is looser than virgin when seating a primer, then the case is still good to go.

One way to approach it is to only bump shoulders when chambering starts to get tight. Another way is to bump every time in order to increase consistency in case dimensions from firing to firing.

People were loading deadly accurate ammo before bumping the shoulder was ever thought of....the 7mag is a belted case and doesn't head space on the shoulder.

That's your opinion

That's only one aspect of consistent dimensions. The other is feeding reliability.

It does if you savvy extending your brass life.

That's my experience.

A Forstner neck size shoulder bump bushing die only touches the shoulder and the neck most dies people are bumping the shoulder with are also sizing parts of the rest of the case some.

A few years back I got into neck bushing dies....I'm now shooting a 300 wsm.
I have two micro dial seaters a Forster and a RCBS Gold Medal Match....I really like the RCBS....I have 3 sizing dies for the 300 wsm an RCBS Gold Medal Match neck only bushing die a Forster shoulder bump neck bushing die and a Forster full length die. With those 3 sizing dies I can do most anything to a case. On the bushing dies I'm not running an expander button on either die.
They're all pricey but when it comes to dies you get what you pay for....most of my loaded ammo is running .000 run out a few measure .0005 on a Sinclair digital concentricity gauge.

This is all good info being I've never loaded a belted case.

There is some benefit on the initial fire forming to keep pressures in and around 50 000 psi or low 'node'.

This tends to harden the case head thus prolonging primer pocket integrity.

[/quote]

There is some benefit on the initial fire forming to keep pressures in and around 50 000 psi or low 'node'.

This tends to harden the case head thus prolonging primer pocket integrity.[/quote]


I have started doing this with match brass and it appears to be helping so far, I shoot some mid range matches for the first couple of loadings at the lower pressure/ node.

Jeezus Fhuqk...where/how do you Droolers dream this schit up?!? Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.............

Amen.

That's from my die, you really are an idiot. I like to keep my dies like that, so I can tell what they are doing. You may want to listen, rather than open your big mouth. Listen to the men here: You might learn something.. Some things seem to go right over your head though..

Belted cases are made short to the shoulder and undersized in the body.
There was an excellent reason when they were invented.
As my big game is killed with a semi-auto belted magnum rifle I only use fully prepped new brass when hunting.
Shoots 3 sub moa which is good enuf.
No reason for belts anymore unless you're shooting a break open rifle that you can't find a rimmed cartridge for.
Waiting for a semi-auto in 300 Norma or 30 Nosler.

The soot is from your dies....and I'm m the idiot ?

Child it might be time to clean your sooty dies you idiot
.

You can buy powdered graphite case lube, you fuucking dolt. Some of us use it.

Have most of a 1 pound can left….got it in the mid seventies. Great way to inside neck lube …..but, you do get it on the outside as well! memtb

My dad used it a lot for his BR brass. When he passed, I inherited his stash. Good stuff. I lube all sorts of stuff with graphite now, including case necks!

Only dolts lube the outside of their case necks....

Part of the process and very easy to wipe off! memtb

I'm going to go ahead and quote you on that, every time it becomes relevant.

I don't run an expander button in my dies...I have no need to lube the neck.

If I'm using a full length body die I just lightly touch the bottom two thirds of the case walls with some Imperial sizing wax and lightly lube the inside of the neck with a nylon brush.

I guess some of you girls need soot on your cases to tell what your doing....grease them up if you have them girls.

Again, if you’re smoking cases after 3 reloads you can really do whatever you want, hopefully far away from people that aren’t wearing safety glasses or long sleeves.

I full length size my 7 mags, have 6, ain’t got time to sort brass for each one. I load 64 grains of IMR 4350 with a 140 Nosler ballistic tip. That load has shot well in many 7 mags. I hunt, ain’t a paper shooter, except to check before season. I have multiples of several rifles, don’t neck size for any rifle I own.

I cshitcan belted brass after the 4th firing.

I never said I was smoking cases after 3 firings I said the primer pockets start feeling a little loose after 3 or 4 firings when they did I pitched them.

I been handloading since about 1976 or 77....never once have I had any issues with any thing I've handloaded.....each gun is a different animal when you're loading hot.
At the first sign of pressure I always back off a little.

I don't remember the exact load I was shooting in my 24" barreled 7mm Rem. magnum I do recall the velocity I was shooting. The 5 shot average over a PACT chronograph was 3325 fps with Reloader 19 and a 140 gr. Nosler Ballitic tip the powder charge was a little over recommended max....I was set up .010 off the lands.


With a160 gr. Nosler Partition I was averaging a little over 3200 fps with Hodgedon 1000 I cam recall of the powder charge was over the recommended max and both loads shot to the same point of impact at 100 yards..

You girls should stick to your pip squeak Creedmores...I hear their cases last forever.

These guys act like a 7 mag is a target gun....

Sounds like you been drinking too much Goat sizum Slick...

You seem to be gender confused...first we're girls, then we're guys.

Doesn't say good things about your judgment. But you do you.

I bet you bozos use Lee dies with O rings....

If you’re getting 3200 with a 160 and any powder out of a 24” barrel you’re putting the berries to it. I shoot bigger cases 7mms and that’d smoke my stuff out of longer barrels.

It’s your rifle and such so I don’t rightly care how you use your stuff. Don’t take it the wrong way, I like to run my stuff to what it’s capable of. I just don’t believe hammering my guns and brass adds anything to the gunfight.

If you're not showing any pressure signs how is it the wrong way .

You've got to work on your insults. It's just getting boring.


Just keep it to yourself. Would you, or do you, let your kids shoot that stuff? You do realize that loosened primer pockets in belted magnum cases with all that brass on and around the case head would definitely be a sign of pressure?

Loose primer pockets after 3 firings is a pressure sign, genius.

Also, just because you have been doing something for a long time, doesn’t mean you have been doing it right or make you an expert at it.

If you want to do it the right way, put a strain gauge on it and actually measure the pressure.

I’ve tired of him/her/they also…..”it”has just joined the group of esteemed individuals placed on ignore! memtb

Good for you.

You never answered my question. Would you, or do you, let your kids shoot that stuff?

I wouldn't let a dolt like you shoot my Daisy BB gun..
.

Since were on the subject of pressure signs, are the signs the same with a belted case as with non belted? Are do they present different signals to look for?

Yeah, that is an annoying mystery. .0091" to .00261" between the cartridge and chamber is built into the SAAMI specs for the 7mm Rem Mag, 300 Win Mag, and 350 Rem Mag, etc. You can't fix it until after the initial firing.

I believe that the symptoms are the same……primer flattening, primer pocket expansion, case head expansion, extraction difficulty, ect. memtb

A false shoulder fixes the problem before the initial firing.

This belted stuff always cracks me up, and I got my first Rem 700 7RM in 1978. I have never even had to think about a belt, and I do own an unused Larry Willis die for the non problem of sizing right in front of the web.

We get the Remington Factory rifles to shoot just unbelievably, bed the action, free float the barrel, put on a good trigger, glass, and rings and bases.

Using the not so tough Remington brass, 65.5-66.0g of IMR 4350 with a 140g Nosler ballistic tip, accubond almost always shoots sub 3/8" groups on three shot groups, and key is Rem 9 1/2 with the bullet kissing the lands....even .010 off the lands will make groups open up. Since we are hunting, getting 5 shots on a case is more than enough, as they often get ejected out of the tree we are hunting out of, and the nephews do not save much brass. Barnes 140g ttsx are ungodly accurate .050 off the lands, same load.

Fast forward to the 180g ELD-M on deer, glory be, the lights came on. R#22 at 2850 and R#26 at 3030 and I am using 9T custom barrels with .210 throats for these 180's.

Now, when it comes to full length sizing, The case has a very distinct memory of the first chamber it was sized in, and this is no small matter! Interchanging brass between different guns, buying once fired brass, range brass, creates all kinds of issues. Brass sized down, will expand back out over time towards the first chamber it was shot in, you simply can not defeat the Natural Laws of Physics.

If brass is in short supply, and you have to load for friends and family's factory rifles, there are two solutions, a Small base sizer, or a RCBS full length sizer made prior to '79(the year is stamped on the top). Do not expect to size down brass and it stay sized down for 5 years, with this becoming more of a nuisance with mixed brass having multiple firings on it.

What is really messed up about factory chambers is that they are not chambered in line with the bore, with some being terribly egg shaped. Some guys think that they are shooting a hot load, neck sizing when they are only dealing with an egg shaped chamber where the brass will never be able to be neck sized.

The ugly truth about factory chambers and production dies is that reamer wear in all accounts. Dies have a spread of +/- dimensions, Chambers are all over the map in web dimensions and lengths. When you combine these two facts, adjusting dies becomes more problematic.

You always hear bump dies back .002-.003, when real world maybe a lot more. The reason for this is that you have run the die in far enough to reduce the web dimension to the point where the bolt will close. So, to reduce the web dimension, you may have to bump back the shoulder .006, or what ever the number is. This very issue will make a lot of guys go crazy, but it is a hunting rifle, not a target rifle.

My Remington and Browning A bolts LOVE HOT LOADS where they really shine in accuracy, and by Accuracy, I mean 3/8" and smaller groups, this is no understatement.

Before you die, you owe it to yourself to get a 7 Mag throated for a 180g ELD-M, run a 8.75-9T, 5 R barrel if you are hunting deer and hogs.

Bolt lift...I guess you could call that "extraction difficulty"

My first 7 mag was an older Remington BDL with the blued barrel marked "Stainless Steel" it was a tack driver...back then I was bad about trading guns and regretfully traded it off for something else.

And a good chronograph doesn’t hurt.

How...

You've been reloading for nearly 5 decades, and you don't know? JFC, LFC. What a fraud.

False shoulder explained in great detail.

https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/false-shoulder/

Now the test: why are belted cases made so undersized ?

It's all good except what LFC is saying.

i like to tumble my used belted cases 1st , then candle anneal each case , then full length resize my belted brass seems to resize easier then. good luck,Pete53

Brass in the shoulder area is thinner than brass near the base, so adheres to chamber wall first as pressure develops. Base returns to bolt face as pressure develops, and a stretch occurs just above the belt. If there's enough stretch on first firing the case is ruined. Faux shoulder keeps shoulder tight up front, ergo base tight against bolt face, on firing pin impact. So there is no/less thinning above the belt.

Creation of a faux shoulder on virgin brass as I, Stick, and Smith describe is a very effective (altho not perfect) way to prevent ruining cases on first firing in generous chambers, thereby granting cases a near-normal lifespan. The bottom line here, regardless of how you parse mechanism, is that this approach works. As said, I don't do it on just any belted mag rifle - just on those with very generous chambers. It is a bit of a PIA.

Similar to a proper Ackley Improved chamber where the brass is tight at the neck/shoulder junction of the improved chamber. Radial expansion is fine, longitudinal expansion is minimized.

I think you're nutts....and the bozo with his cream of wheat is nutts.

Some people just have too much time on their hands.

He's talking bench rest cartridges and we're talking 7mm Remington Magnum.

What next....

I guess next Big Slick will blOw his dribble through the primer hole with a straw and fire form a 7 mag case while chasing his goat around the back forty......hint...hint.

I've only seen one chamber (7 RM) so long as to cause case separation with normal firing and reloading.

I had my gunsmith bud fix the chamber by removing the barrel and setting it back about 0.020" then rechambering. A little more work up front but saves a lot of work later.

I wouldn't mess around with the false shoulder work around.

It is fhuqking HILARIOUS,to grant you Drooling Fhuqktards opportunity,to do your best. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.............

I think you're a fraud and a dipshiit. I suspect you're also a basement-dwellling incel who can't lie enough to quite get laid.

Why would anyone care what a dumb azz like you thought....

Why are you so defensive if someone else suggested a different technique than yours.

You talking to me ?