Any reason to not use this stuff? Is it beneficial or a waste of time. Thanks.

I use it for case lube.

It works good for me; less resistance on the expander, and, I believe, less stretching. I've been using it for over 40 years.

It’s not bad, but not as good as Imperial Wax.
It will usually stretch cases more, and definitely more resistance when FL sizing a case.

I’ve started dipping the necks of brass in it to help prevent bullet weld.

I used to use a Q-tip with a dab of Imperial wax on it but last year I started using the dry neck lube. Easier and there’s no need to clean the inside of the necks. Works great too.

I use imperial wax on the outside of the case in the sizing die, but dip the neck in powdered graphite for the expansion step via mandrel. I don't bother cleaning it out after because I believe it prevents or at least reduces bullet weld. Graphite is already in the equation anyway as an anti-clumping agent on most powders.

Small container with steel shot and powdered graphite from Amazon. Cheap DIY and will last for years and years.

I use it with expander mandrels and only wipe off the outside.

There’s your huckleberry.

It is a necessity.

Why?

I'm a big fan.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...ilestones-as-a-rifle-looney#Post16801094

Why wouldn’t it be?

I began using it when I had an expander ball stick in a 308 case. Never wanted to do that again. What are your alternate suggestions? I can’t imagine forgoing the use of it.

Same here

After lubing the case I dip the necks in dry graphite - works for me.

Same here . Imperial wax outside, Imperial dry lube inside. No problems.

I use it after annealing brass or when I'm loading brand new brass. As others said, it reduces cold weld.

I dont use anything on the inside of my necks for sizing bushings only, verified by guage pins, but my necks are turned.
I only use the carbon inside the necks for lube and brush with a stiff nylon brush before seating.
Do you use a inline seater? I can tell you if once I went to inline seater I could feel the difference by just brushing vrs dry lube and the target proved no lube just brushing was better.
Have you tested the difference? Don't assume anything.
Quality of brass to start with comes into the picture also, rough brass inside the necks is no good.
I know some guys who will polish the inside of necks on brand new brass.
Brass- nk preparation is in my opinion more important than using a dry lube, atleast my testing results have shown that.

It makes the expander ball slip out of the case neck easier than dry.

It's faster than q-tip lubing the inside of the necks and you can prime and load without case lube stickiness in the neck, that has to be cleaned before loading.

Lightly lube the bottom two third of the case with case lube and lightly dip the neck, size it.

The little Neck lube bottle is easy to knock over so I silicone glued it to a metal peanut butter lid.

That’s my notion as well.I just loaded 60-odd new Norma primed .223 cases and dipped those in hopes of preventing weld. Since I usually only wipe my fired brass off instead of tumbling it, another notion I have is that the crud left inside the necks serves the same purpose.

I ran that Norma brass over the expander and honestly can’t feel any less resistance, but the dry lube definitely remains. I much prefer the Imperial lube setup over the powdered mica I used before.

That’s a good idea.going to use it. 👍😎

Xs 2!

It's a heck of an idea, wish I'd heard of it about a month ago..

Years ago I “discovered” lubing the inside of the case necks goes a long ways towards making necks straighter on every type of sizing die I’ve tried—this includes the LCD’s

I keep 5-6 tins of imperial wax in the fridge. I dip the necks into the stiff wax (the cold wax makes the whole process less messy and easier to control the amount applied), and lube the body of the case when using the wildly popular PFLR method.

I have tested the Imperial dry vs Imperial wax using the same lot of brass and same die more than once. Necks were straighter (sometimes only slightly straighter), and less stretch (sometimes quite a bit less stretch) when using the wax.

I’ve also tested other lubes from the original RCBS gooey sticky stuff to spray on lube. The wax made straighter necks with less effort on the press handle. The only exception was the STP oil additive that I tried, it worked very well—but Imperial wax was a lot easier to deal with.

Maybe I’m being anal, but I don’t want ANY residual lube in my chamber. After sizing I drop the lubed brass into a small parts bucket of lacquer thinner. When I’m done sizing I pull the basket out, swipe a neck brush into the necks and blow them out with compressed air.

As I mentioned. I have started dipping the necks in the dry lube to help prevent bullet weld.

Neo Lube #2 is the best neck lube I've tried.

Neo lube 2 has a stain, blackening agent and is electrically conductive. Works great for improving performance and coloration of electric train wheels.

Use both Imperial wax.....

FL sizing & inside necks...

along with this dry powdered mica

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012864366?pid=174134

Like others I use Imperial wax on the outside of the case and the dry graphite for lubing the necks. Works well for me.

I agree. I do use inline seaters. I am comfortable with my loading process now that I have stepped up to better loading tools. Once I went to precision dies it was smooth sailing from there.

There definitely is a difference.