How many people are full length re-sizing? And how many people are only sizing necks?

Why is it recommended that beginners should do the full length re-sizing? Ken.

I full length resize using a Hornady case comparator to set the shoulder back 2-3 thousands.

I guess that it is recommended for beginners to full length resize because you can always turn the die in until you get the press to cam over and the cartridge will fit in almost any rifle.

I mostly full length re-size my hunting and ar 15 rounds.
When playing with some long range rifles I neck size.

You will find the gun will dictate how the case should be sized.

Examples: My Kimber Longmaster Classic (223 Remington), Remington 700 (221 Fireball) and Sauer 202 (7mm Remington Magnum) all have tight chambers and using the FL sizing die in accordance with the manufacturers instructions provides the correct amount of shoulder set-back, ~.002". Rounds chamber easily and my loads are very accurate.

My Ruger #1 (25-06) has a generous chamber and FL resizing the brass in accordance with the manufacturers instructions results in too much shoulder set-back, ~.006". That much resizing will dramatically shorten the life of the brass. With this gun I need to use a case comparator to get the die adjusted properly so I only move the shoulder enough to facilitate chambering.

The only guns I neck size for are my Fireball and 25-06. The Fireball case (a shortened 223) is very robust and easily handles the powder charges without excessive case expansion. I reform military 223 brass to 221 Fireball. The 25-06 does well with neck sizing for 2 or 3 firings before I have to bump the shoulder back. I also find myself annealing the 25-06 cases more than any other. I reform 30-06 to 25-06 from Greek military brass.

I full length re-size

Full Length Resizing is not just for beginners. As a matter of fact, it takes more knowledge to properly set a FL die than a NS die.

Neck Sizing is not the road to sustained accuracy or functionality. After 3 or 4 firings, the cases will be expanded enough that they wont even chamber in the rifle, necessitating being run through a FL die just to make them work again. Nevermind that they get banana shaped as well unless you cull out all the cases that have walls that vary no more than .002, and that's asking alot from typical RemChester brass.

Using a FL die does not return the case to the same dimension as unfired brass, which really is on the sloppy side. Stony Point and Davidson make tools to check the dimension from the base to the datum line on the shoulder. Set your die up so that it sets the shoulder back .002. Subsequent firings will harden the brass and it won't spring back or size as much, but it will still leave you with a shoulder that is pushed back .001. If you get a die with neck bushings it will go a long way towards making your brass last much longer, as standard dies generally size the neck down too much, then the expander has to size back up alot, which just works the brass more than it really should.

You will hear about Partial FL sizing. It doesn't work with standard dies, and here is why. A standard FL die sizes the body first, then it pushes the shoulder back. If you only run it down partially, the body is squeezed smaller, however the shoulder can only go forward! If you really want to partial FL size, get a FL die with neck bushings. Then you can make small washers that go under the neck bushing to keep it from going all the way to the neck/shoulder junction giving you better case alignment while still sizing the body/shoulder the correct amount.


BTW, no one that I know of uses NS in a BR rifle.

I full length size all of my cases because I have multiples of the same chamberings for different rifles. Example: 4 30-06's and 3 308 winchesters. Side note: I've never had a problem getting rifles to shoot excedingly well with full length sized cartridges.

Listen to PC363....
BTDT trying to partial size with a FL die. No worky, especially with high pressure rounds like the WSM's....

You can make a tool to measure shoulder setback. I did as I had stuff and didn't want to wait for mail-order. Used an automotive replacement cyl head cast iron valve guide. .502" OD x .373" ID. cut to about 1" length and filed a slot in one end to fit a caliper. Worked on the 10-15 calibers I load for....

I have seven 308s, and each one has it's own set of brass. There's enough difference between some of the chambers to make "universal fit" FL sizing undesirable from a brass longevity standpoint.

I do both as necessary.



Who recommended that?
I recommend that beginners understand every aspect of their reloading equipment, before they begin reloading.

Ive been loading for over 50 years I have yet to "understand
every aspect". A beginer can't go wrong full length sizing
after awhile he isn't a beginer.

I use either FL dies or the Redding Type-S FL bushing die. For bolt actions, I set my shoulder back .001" to .002" and for my AR I set the shoulder back .003". Brass life is very good. Accuracy is very good.

Alan

WIN94, I'm trying to teach myself how to reload, via the internet.

Each manufacturer that sells dies/equipment states that beginners should full-length re-size,

I wish I didn't have to learn this way, but it is what it is.

So far, it appears most people full length re-size.

I'm just trying to line up the proper equipment and techniques.

Keep in mind that the instructions most manufacturers include with their FL dies will lead to brass that is sized down more than necessary for a typical rifle.

The idea is to FL size, but just enough. That's what we're talking about when we say things like bump the shoulder back .002" or so. Something else to consider is how your particular die works on the brass fired in a given chamber.

Along with the seven 308 rifles I mentioned above, I have accumulated six FL sizing dies for the cartridge. No two size the brass exactly the same. Adjusted to push the case shoulders back a like amount, my Hornady die sizes noticeably more taper into the body of the case than does my RCBS. Dies from Redding, Lee and Forster fall in between. So if I'm loading for a rifle that has a chamber of typical depth but that is generous radially, the Hornady die will work the brass more than necessary. OTOH, if I'm loading for a tight chamber, using the RCBS die may have me pushing the shoulder back more than I'd like before I size enough taper into the case body for slick chambering.

As I used to jokingly ask my classes, are we all confused at a higher level now?

I would like to think reloading isn't really this complicated, but what the hell do I know?

I suppose it's like anything else, there are the basics, and then there are the "extreme" basics.

For me the fiddling around at the bench part of handloading is part of the fun, so I like to dabble in the details.

You can do quite well without worrying about too much nit picky stuff. Just be careful.

Simply adjust your die to size the brass just enough for smooth chambering. Any more than that and you're needlessly overworking the brass.

It doesn't "have" to be, if you don't care about how long your brass will last, or how accurate you ammo will be.

I agree completely with your first sentence and respectfully disagree with the second. A beginner can go very wrong full-length sizing, especially if he follows some of the manufacturers' directions and over-sizes.

I use a Lee Collet die and retire cases after 10 firings. If I was deeply concerned about chambering, I would definitely cycle each round before going hunting with it. Also, given my propensity for record-keeping, were I to have multiple rifles in a chambering, I would keep the brass segregated anyway.

I too use a Lee collet die. It is in fact the only die I have ever used. I just started reloading and have reloaded maybe 35 rounds. They all feed and function well in my rifle.

I can understand the need to full length resize every case if brass is used in several chambers. But what is the down side to neck only? How does it become "banana" shaped? Thicker case wall on one side doesn't spring back at the same rate?

That is exactly what happens.

I full length when the fired case doesnt fit correctly in the chamber, ie; snug when I close the bolt, with my tactical 308 I just started neck sizing, but when it needs to be full length Ill FL size those brass. FL when loading for friends, always.

When I try to partial size my 06 brass it wont fit in the chamber without forcing the bolt closed, I have to FL resize them everytime, some of my other rifles are the same way, 6mm and 223 are the exception, but I FL size them anyways, I found partial resizing my 6mm brass the necks split a lot sooner than Id like, that sux!

I've used the collet sizer in .30-'06, 8x57, and 303 British only, all for multiple rifles.

For the .30-'06 and 8x57 I haven't been able to detect a difference in accuracy. The first problem to show up while collet sizing is difficult extraction. No big deal on the range, but undesirealbe in the field. For both cartridges case life is a non-issue for me, because I have what is probably a life time supply. I get many .30-'06 cases from shooting issue ammunition at CMP matches, and make 8x57 from them.

The .303 British is a special case(isn't it always). I load this for a No. 4 and a P14. The No. 4 has a horribly misshapened chamber. Cases full lenght sized to fit its chamber shoot best. The neck sized cases mimic the chamber shape, but when fired the clocking doesn't match. The P14 I haven't loaded enough for to make a valid comparison.

In short, I use the collet die when I need something quick and dirty. When I need the most reliable or accurate ammunition it is the full lenght sizer.

Full length size any new to me brass (factory new brass or once fired brass from the guy on the bench next to me with factory ammo and tosses his brass); trim to spec; neck size the next 4 times; and toss the brass. If the brass came from factory ammo out of my gun, I'll trim to spec, neck size the next 4 times, and toss.

Consistency, Consistency, Consistency

Neck sizing allows me to take fire formed brass from my rifle (that has also been trimmed) and load ammunition with little to no head space issues. YMMV

There is also the published, tried and true method of Partial Full Length Sizing. For the cartridges that I don't load a lot of and so I don't have a NS, I just do a PFLS on the brass.

HaYen