Thinking I might start annealing, mostly to extend brass life. Wondering if there is any consensus on roughly how much longer brass might last.
I started annealing about 4 years ago. So far, if I anneal every 4 to 5 shots, I've not lost a single case. I also collet neck size, and rarely trim after the first firing, which usually requires a bit to uniform cases. This is out of several rifles from 17 Mach 4 to a few 22cf to several small to large 30's, and a couple in between. That's how it has worked for me. I dislike spending money on brass, and would rather spend it on bullets, powders, ans primers. I even tried annealing some 44 mag and 444 Marlin cases, to good effect, when they began getting brittle at the case mouths.
A long time as long as you don’t blow out your primer pockets.
A long time as long as you don’t blow out your primer pockets.
Exactly.
I have 20 rounds of .375 H&H brass that has been reloaded 20 times so far. This is a cast bullet load designed to practice speed loading the rifle, a Ruger #1. I load five times neck sizing for four loads then a full length resize for load #5. I anneal the necks after the fifth resize. With luck I might get another 10 reloads from that brass as the primer pockets are staring to loosen up a bit.
Bullet is the RCBS #37-250-FN over 49.0 gr. H4895. Accuracy is good at 1.5" at 100 yards off the bench. Recoil is about like a 30-06 which aids practice but does not beat me up.
Paul B.
I my experience a whole, whole lot.
Even neck sizing I’ve had split necks after 4 reloadings (5 firings) w/o annealing but more than 10 (pretty sure 15 on cases before I started counting) by annealing necks down to the shoulder after every third reloading.
Well worth the effort in my book.
I my experience a whole, whole lot.
Even neck sizing I’ve had split necks after 4 reloadings (5 firings) w/o annealing but more than 10 (pretty sure 15 on cases before I started counting) by annealing necks down to the shoulder after every third reloading.
Well worth the effort in my book.
My experience is the same as yours.
If you hot rod your reloads - not much. If you shoot less than maximum a lot.
It depends on how you size, and the quality of brass you use. If you full length size with non-bushing dies, if done properly, annealing helps because most likely the necks will crack first.
If you neck size using lapua brass, you will get loose primer pockets before the necks crack. No amount of annealing will help that.
I've had Winchester cases come with cracked necks out of the bag, and I've had lapua brass last 50 reloadings.
IMO, instead of investing in annealing equipment, you will be much better off by buying better
brass/dies. Those determine longevity much more than annealing.
Thanks for the replies. Typically use Lapua when available or Norma brass. RWS for my 300WM. Generally use Forster dies with a few Lee collet neck sizers and redding body dies. Not too much hot rodding these days, but do tend to load to max with chosen powder. Thinking about getting an Annealing Made Perfect annealer, but trying to justify (rationalize) the cost.
Your using the best equipment offered in your dies. Your brass will tell you when it needs to be annealed. You'll notice this by the amount of springback when resizing. If you are finding it difficult to resize, it's probably time to anneal. I usually anneal my cases every 3-5 firings. At the end of the day, annealing addresses two issues 1) prevents premature neck splits from work-hardening and 2) creates consistent neck tension through the life of your brass. In annealing the last 12 years, I can say that annealing has maintained consistent accuracy throughout the life of your brass. If not annealing, you find that the first 1-3 firings are really consistent. After that, your groups will start to open up.
If you want to try annealing on the cheap, try something like this and test for yourself:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/360902/hornady-annealing-system