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Title says it all. I shoot a lot of low brass shells. The 1100 I have will not eject low brass. Anyone know of a way to make it eject the low brass?

20Ga 1100 LW
My wife shoots one and we have had no problems with it. I would replace the O ring if you haven't and give it a good cleaning. Low brass, including low steel have run without issue.
Originally Posted by Hawk_Driver
My wife shoots one and we have had no problems with it. I would replace the O ring if you haven't and give it a good cleaning. Low brass, including low steel have run without issue.


Yes, I replaced the O-ring, checked and cleaned the ports. Lubed it up, it’s very smooth.
Sometimes after you have done all the easy stuff move to other points 4 ought steel wool and gun oil on a 20 ga brush in the tip section of your cleaning rod. Chuck it up in your rechargeable drill and clean and polish the chamber. How long has it been since you pulled the butt stock off and pulled out the recoil spring from its housing and cleaned both ?
Originally Posted by Magnum_Bob
Sometimes after you have done all the easy stuff move to other points 4 ought steel wool and gun oil on a 20 ga brush in the tip section of your cleaning rod. Chuck it up in your rechargeable drill and clean and polish the chamber. How long has it been since you pulled the butt stock off and pulled out the recoil spring from its housing and cleaned both ?


I was going to suggest BOTH of these options... do it and the gun cannot help but run.
Not a 20 ga but when I was shooting trap with an 1100, I was taught by the old guys to polish the surfaces where the o-ring works, down to bare metal, coat o-ring and surfaces with silicon lock tumbler lube, the stuff that evaporates. Old timers said never use petroleum oils in that area.I shot thousands of rounds with home loads that were below 5,800 LUP, that's low. Do not be influenced by a garage gunsmith that wants to cut a turn off the buffer spring...you will eventually hammer your action unto death.
Originally Posted by flintlocke
Do not be influenced by a garage gunsmith that wants to cut a turn off the buffer spring...you will eventually hammer your action unto death.
THAT - in SPADES!!!
'll take it down again this evening and work these things over. I appreciate the Insight.
Is this with all low brass or just one brand?
Originally Posted by Hawk_Driver
Is this with all low brass or just one brand?

All low brass
Is this a 3" chamber gun? If so, you may need to enlarge the gas ports.
The gun is 2-3/4” chamber. I’m going through some details about the gun in the manual.

The Receiver is the LT20 model K receiver. Where would I find the barrel stamp? According to the “K receiver” it should have a 1.5” style barrel Extension. I believe this is the wrong barrel but I need some help. I think this is the 3.5” barrel extension.

I need some verification from someone who knows. If so I may be looking for a 1.5” barrel.

Thanks for any help.
I thought the LW's had the shorter barrel extension, similar to an 870 barrel. I also thought the LT's had the longer, 1100ish extension. I am out of town until Wed so cant verify that the LW has the shorter extension but bet that it does.
So where is the ejector1.5" sure can't be on the extension
Here are pics of the receiver and manual details.

https://ibb.co/f8v2r5t
https://ibb.co/R0x8X7q
https://ibb.co/gdxSWzd
Thought I would give everyone an update on the barrel fiasco. As it turns out the manual is correct. Any LT-20 that has a K at the end of the serial number takes a short 1-3/8” tang. The Same as the LW-20.


If the LT-20 has a “U” designation at the end of the serial number is has the 3.5” tang.

How the conclusion was reached is a member has a NIB never been fired that he bought new, LT-20 with “K” designation it does have the short tang barrel like the 870s.
Best I remember both the 20 gauge LW and the LT-20 have the K at the last letter in the serial number on the receiver.

If the receiver has a ejector inside the receiver like the 870 does then it will use a shorter tanged barrel

If it does not have an ejector inside the receiver like the 870 does then it will use the longer Tang barrel with the ejector nub or bump on it.

And I was under the impression that wot U as the last letter that indicated a magnum.

Other than a transitional mix of parts and modifications between the change of the receiver and barrel between the 20 gauge LW and the LT-20 this is the way things are.
Remington was having problems with the 20 LW receivers cracking so about 1977 they changed to the LT receiver supposedly thickened in a few key places and with the sculptured ejection port amd started using the long tang barrels wit the ejector button on the tang instead of being mounted inside of the receiver like an 870 has.
Strange. My LT-20 has a K serial suffix and runs fine with a pair of 3.5” tang barrels with the ejector buttons. One barrel is chambered 2 3/4” and the other is chambered 3”. The 3” does require using the heavier magnum action sleeve.

Have you tried replacing the recoil spring in the buttstock?
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