So I’ve seen a few different posts they made mention of Grease for break action shotguns any particular brand recommended over another? Frankly I’ve never used grease just clean them well and maybe just a touch of CLP
Hunting guns a little oil the same day is ample. Target guns something like the Shooter's Choice grease is good mostly because of the hypo style applicator. I also lube the choke tubes on a competition gun where I would be embarrassed if a choke tube swap wasn't quick and easy. I suspect something like Slide Glyde from Brian Enos and many more such maybe TW-25 would be ideal on the shotgun action but don't know that or know of any shotgun specific tests.
Red wheel bearing works great. I have refilled a Shooter's Choice syringe many time.
Most of the competitive Trap and Skeet shooters I know apply clean grease at the start of a shoot (300-400targets). Grease collects detritus and is best removed and reapplied regularly.
One particularly persnickety fellow I know cleans and applies new grease before each 100 target event.
A little one the hinge pins, a little on the fore end iron where it meets the receiver.
Lots of arguments on whether to grease the locking surfaces. I shoot Beretta 682's and apply a small amount, with a q-tip, in the locking recesses in the mono block.
There will be a couple of oil aficionados along in a minute to say the opposite.
I used to use TW25B for any gun grease need, but its expensive and probably overkill. So I've gone back to using Super Lube. I like Super Lube. It's inexpensive, readily available, food grade, stays put, and is translucent clear so if a dab gets on clothing, it doesn't stain as badly as red greases like Shooters Choice.
As far as what to grease, this video is consistent with what's in my Browning Citori manual:
My standard grease for everything is moly truck bearing grease, but it’s nasty stuff. I need to pop for some nice clear synthetic like Browning. Not sure it matters much as long as there’s something.
I have used Shooters Choice, but use STOS, mainly. There are several good ones to choose from. I do remove my grease at the end of my shooting session, I reapply before the next session.
Any good grease is fine. The key is being religious about frequent cleaning so the grease doesn’t hold grit. Without frequent cleaning, the grease is actually more harmful than using none at all.
Any good grease is fine. The key is being religious about frequent cleaning so the grease doesn’t hold grit. Without frequent cleaning, the grease is actually more harmful than using none at all.
Great point !!!
I always store my guns "dry" so to speak. They get grease when they get used.........and it gets wiped off when they go to case.
I've switched to Super Lube Food Grade Anti-Seize grease for my choke tubes. I couldn't stand Birchwood Casey Choke Tube Lube. That stuff appears to me to just be rebranded Permatex Anti-Seize. Using Permatex on machines and lawn mower blade bolts is fine. In a shotgun where I'm changing chokes out, it's filthy. Super Lube Anti-Seize is only a little less clear than regular Super Lube. I kind of looks like vasoline. Much cleaner to use than the Birchwood Casey stuff. I may go ahead and use it on my over-under.
So I’ve seen a few different posts they made mention of Grease for break action shotguns any particular brand recommended over another? Frankly I’ve never used grease just clean them well and maybe just a touch of CLP
One of the critical reasons to apply grease to the hinge area is as a cushion. That's why white grease with its soap component is essential.
I have always used Rig or Stos. Been using it for a very long time. I know its old skool. Lots of newer stuff out there. But it works. No reason for me to change.
How many shots before a new grease job is necessary? 1-10-100-200?
(Mobil 1 guy here. It seems to have a great rep on metal against metal in a high heat environment. A can most likely could last a a decade if only used in firearms that are shot a lot. Even the Walmart generic seems to work well.)
Rare to ever read about going inside to clean things up. Cold to hot to condensation, to perhaps no lubrication after years and years. Yet the insides are most likely never looked at by the vast majority. The insides are the parts that starts or stops the bang.
Mobil 1 here, put a Quart in he gun room about 10 years ago, still about 1/2 full, we service about 30 shotguns, all O/U, and about 20 bolt action rifles used on the range and hunting, the sandy dust here will eat a action if it's not taken care of. Rio7
How many shots before a new grease job is necessary? 1-10-100-200?
I reapply every shooting trip. How many shots I shoot at the range varies from 50 to as high as 500 in a day. It takes very little grease to hit the hinge, and forearm iron areas. Just a little dab on the end of my finger and you are good to go. I have seen more than a few guns with galling marks where the forearm iron meets the receiver due to no grease. At the end of my shooting, I wipe my gun down and wipe off the old grease and apply new so that at next range trip, all I have to do is shoot.
500 makes sense...50 is like changing your oil every 500 miles. Clay guns rarely get only 50, field guns would rarely get more. So field if the weather is fine, will most likely get a wipe down and put away.
Addition: Beretta A400's have gone a couple thousand with the insides getting a squirt every so often, before a good cleaning. One had around 25-30K and was still flawless.
My go to lube for moving gun parts is now Hornady One shot (not the case lube- the other one). I still use gun butter( a red thin grease) on slides because it makes me feel good and would probably use some for the hinge. It has proven to be good stuff but mostly I like that needle like applicator. You can get tiny amounts where needed so it lasts.
Truth be told, as can be seen by the multitude of different approaches that all work, it does not matter oil or grease as long as you use something that lubricates and take care to clean and replace often to prevent the accumulation of detritus.
Truth be told, as can be seen by the multitude of different approaches that all work, it does not matter oil or grease as long as you use something that lubricates and take care to clean and replace often to prevent the accumulation of detritus.
That’s what I’m thinking. Lots of different lubes work if in the right place and replaced at reasonable intervals.
How many shots before a new grease job is necessary? 1-10-100-200?
(Mobil 1 guy here. It seems to have a great rep on metal against metal in a high heat environment. A can most likely could last a a decade if only used in firearms that are shot a lot. Even the Walmart generic seems to work well.)
Rare to ever read about going inside to clean things up. Cold to hot to condensation, to perhaps no lubrication after years and years. Yet the insides are most likely never looked at by the vast majority. The insides are the parts that starts or stops the bang.
This--but where you shoot and hunt also makes a difference. I live in Montana, but also hunt other states, mostly western. There's far more dust in the air out here, especially early in the season, than there is in places like the UP of Michigan or Southern quail seasons. Or ptarmigan seasons anywhere....
Hinge grease is made to do two things, necessary things.
1. Lubricate the moving parts. 2. Cushion the hinge.
A special grease is formulated to do both, and the English know what to use, white grease.
WHAT IS WHITE GREASE? Lubricating greases are manufactured by combining oil with a soap. Soap is added to oil to create a thick, viscous stable gel called a grease. This process basically gives the grease an added 'stickiness' compared with oil. It can adhere better to the item it is applied to. White grease is used to lubricate metal-on-metal applications. It is a grease that won't run-off and due to its excellent heat stability it won't melt or freeze. It stays in place for a long time, giving long-term protection against rust and corrosion.
Not about to question the validity of your post….and I know others who use both grease or oil, neither of which causes problems. However, out of curiosity, the other day after shooting around 300 rounds I I looked at the bearing surfaces on a Perazzi. They all still had visual evidence of oil doing what it is supposed to do.
That particular shotgun has around 12,000 rounds since a rebuild with new locking lug and the top level is still well to the right of center.
In addition according to Perazzi literature there are areas they recommend oil and others grease.
Krieghoff sells a product I think called K Lube or Grease. It is more of a liquid than thick. Even more so when warm.
I don’t think it matters one way or the other, as long as one puts it in the right area when required or needed. Especially with the metals used in modern firearms. It is going to take considerable neglect to result in any damage to moving parts.
Choke tubes seem to have more tendency to come loose with oil vs a thick grease. Especially those with coarse threads.
On thing to avoid is WD40…especially to anything inside were a light oil coating is the recommended go to.
How many shots before a new grease job is necessary? 1-10-100-200?
(Mobil 1 guy here. It seems to have a great rep on metal against metal in a high heat environment. A can most likely could last a a decade if only used in firearms that are shot a lot. Even the Walmart generic seems to work well.)
Rare to ever read about going inside to clean things up. Cold to hot to condensation, to perhaps no lubrication after years and years. Yet the insides are most likely never looked at by the vast majority. The insides are the parts that starts or stops the bang.
This--but where you shoot and hunt also makes a difference. I live in Montana, but also hunt other states, mostly western. There's far more dust in the air out here, especially early in the season, than there is in places like the UP of Michigan or Southern quail seasons. Or ptarmigan seasons anywhere....
That dust, which acts like a fine abrasive, is exactly why the gun should be cleaned and re-lubricated after each day hunting. Mixed with the oil and grease that we use to protect and preserve the life of the gun, it serves to essentially act as valve grinding compound unless cleaned off and reapplied.
