The last few sets have had a lengthwise relieved area where the base would contact the top of the receiver. This relief, while reducing the contact area close to 50%, does allow the sides of the base to better contact the curve of the receiver, rather than potentially 'rocking' on the top curve. For the bubble packers/tighten-the-chit-out-of-stuff crew, it's probably a better approach.

Tempting fate one more time (not ), these Talley LW's got bedded to the receiver, as per the usual prep routine. You can see the bedding material under the bases, resulting in a 100% contact area. The relieved area is also seen as a bit thicker bedding line.





Remarkably, the rings didn't self destruct, crumble or attack my fingers with the razor edges of the broken pieces. They did arrive direct from Talley in a bubble pack, so there is that burden to bear, I guess.

The final insult will be lapping and bedding. Easter seems like an appropriate time frame....

Good shootin'. -Al

Living on the edge there buddy...........

Seems you're doing a little spring fishing; I'll tickle the bobber a little.


Did the bedding compound container look like this?




And did you wear these when handling the Talley LW?

Nice.

3M Vinyl electrical tape.

Base bedding, as well as 60 deg. (+/- 30 deg. from CL) on the bases and caps for the scope.






GR

Good one!!!!!! -Al

Danger is your middle name....

I wuz so nervis i think I peed myself................................................................................! How have they held up?

When you bed these, do you put release agent on the receiver and screws, or are you just glueing them together?

Never had an issue with them simply following the instructions and torquing to spec, on rifles up to .30/06. Never lapped them and have never experienced ring marks.

Pappy, I'm not Nyhus but When I had Talley LW's on my rifles, I never used release agent on the ring base to receiver surfaces but definitely used release on the screws. I used headless screws until the epoxy cured. Then I cleaned the receiver threads and base screws with brake cleaner, applied blue thread locker, installed the screws and torqued them. When I removed the Talleys, all required was a sharp rap with a hammer on a piece of oak against the Talley's and they popped right off. Any epoxy that could not be scraped off of the receiver with a credit card was heated to a couple of hundred degrees with a heat gun and easily cleaned off. Since then, I have installed or re-installed all of the 2 piece bases (I do not use rails) using a TPS Base Bed alignment jig, using no release agent on the receiver. My bases do not move (or develop rust between base and receiver) and using high quality scope rings (I use Recknagel) with a large cross bolt that runs through the slot in the Weaver or Pic base, my rifles stay zeroed in spite of accidental rough treatment in the field. RJ

Sounds like a plan. I have two sets in use now. If I pull them down for some reason, I may try that, though I have had no detectable issues. I like to try a spare scope in the bottoms of rings to see if there is a misalignment or the edges catch.

Thanks.

I have a couple of lightweights on elk hunting 300 Weatherby’s & no issue after much hard use & heavy recoil.