Do any of you handgunners who have direct mount RDO's on your pistol slide have issues with the mount shifting?

I am fairly new to the RDO game and only have 3 setup now.

Setup #1 is a SRO on a plate setup on a FN510. The plate has the standard pegs in front and screws in the rear, no issues.

Setup #2 is an RMR direct mount on an Echelon but the slide itself has removable pegs to go along with the two rear screws, no issues. I really like this setup, genius.

Setup #3 is a Sig Romeo X Pro direct mount on a P320 AXG Legion. This RDO is only held on by two screws, no forward pegs and the optic shifted on me yesterday. Noticeably so, like 6" off at 15-20 yards. I have co-witness sights and it was plain as day the dot was not matched up with the sights. New setup and I'm wondering if any of you guys have had this happen? Hoping the RDO shifted and will now stay put but it seems kinda sketchy. At least it's just a range gun and I'm not depending on it for anything serious but nonetheless annoying. Maybe it will settle in and now stay put?

For a minute I thought I mounted the optic incorrectly but it's beyond simple and youtube vids confirm that according to Sig that's how it's supposed to be mounted. Screws are tight, etc..


Thoughts?

I have some good 3M 2 sided tape that would probably stop that.

It wouldn't glue it fast to the point removal would be hard.
No idea if there is a better way.
PM me if you need some, a strip could be put in an envelope.

Dillon, I was wondering about something like that but according to Sig you can direct mount the RDO without issue.

Got to thinking I needed a filler plate but just double checked and that should not be necessary.

FWIW, I did some more research and decided to order a filler plate and the appropriate screws. Slight headache but hopefully it will stay put using the plate.

Lots of dots come loose if they are only held by the screws. They need screws that have the correct bevel for the dot. They need to be strong scews that won’t stretch. The need to be loctited in with good loctite, not vibratite or whatever it’s called and it needs 24 hours to cure.

But the most important thing is a cut or a plate that cradles the dot so it takes pressure off the screws.

This is great advice.

I tried to keep it simple and use all Sig parts but it didn't work.