For the turret spinning "experts", what distance do you normally zero your scope at? 100, 200, 250?..

The ex-spurt quailification excludes me...

Don't get your feelers hurt, someone's bound to come along and ask about playing jacks or tiddlywinks.

For me it depends on the rifle. Have them at 100,200,250. The bulk are 200 though.

I'm mostly a dead nuts on at 100 with them, the 257 Roy being the noticeable exception.

One or two inches high at 100 depending on the rifle's trajectory. I learned right away what not to do...zero at 100 with a walking varmint rifle. I saw a coyote at 250 yds and tried to adjust the turret for the shot....too late. Better to have a useful trajectory out to 250-300 yds than one that cannot be used for those fast situations.

It isn't mentioned often but if you go into the thick woods or some other short range condition you can always twist the turret down 1 or 2 MOA for zero at 100.

My 257 Roy which is used for coues wt at long distances is set 3" high, zero at approx 360 yds. We glass the deer up and rarely are they closer than 350 yds.

Set yours up for what you think will work and then go out and practice. You will find out right away if it suits your needs.

Never figured how folks get hung up over having it zeroed at 100. Seems many forget that there is a turret on the top of the scope. If you get out of your truck for a day of antelope hunting, spin the [bleep] turret to 2 or whatever before you begin the hunt.


That is the every loving beauty of them, put them where you want them, giving the situation. Hence dead nuts on at 100 works for me.

Such acrimony, so early�not good for your digestion!

Laffin'!.....

always 100 for me. But I don't shoot as far as some gents.

Turret spinning begins at 100. You have to have an exact baseline to start with, and as Steelhead pointed out, "put them where you want them" from that base.

Those rifles that have scopes without turrets get the 2-2.5 inches high at 100 yards treatment.

I like to allow the cartridge/boolit combo to do as much of it's thing that's inherent,before mandated to assist with come-ups.

Don't like to be greater than 2.5" high at 100yds,with anything,for any reason...................

200 yards.

Cain't like my 22LRs zeroed there. I tend to think in boolits/chamberings firstly....................

LOL, you're right about that, but I don't think the OP had .22LR in mind

Zackly,

Most are 200, a couple or three at 225, one at 250, the hammer at 300.

I just

This was my thinking when i zeroed turret on my 243 at 100 on saturday. i confirmed POI to 300 at the range then just put the turret on "2" when i was out walking yesterday on the edge of some fields. It was back to "0" when i got in my deer stand for the hog hunt. Was hoping to have proof positive on the 243's abilities on big game but alas the piggies didn't show.

zero @ 100 and dial from there. like Steelie sez, add dope to the erector as situations dictate. that's what knobs are for.

One can have his cake and eat it too and allowing a boolit/chambering to do it's thing,less input...ain't a concession.

That being said,I do run my ribbons from the 50yd line,so if I wanna hit a Hummingbird in the lips,I certainly can.

But I ain't configured to twist needlessly...............

Kinda like Chubby Checker.

Guys are always quizzing me about turrets and most are under the impression that they gotta change the way they've always done bidness,to make the swap. I always denote the same,in that one needn't change anything,under the assumption of their having a faint clue in basics from inception.

Couldn't begin to guess how many guys I've shown the light to and not a one didn't beat themself up,after connecting the dots.

The cake and eat it too Mantra...do sell itself...................(grin)

I do 1" high at 100 on all my stuff now, just so I keep things standard and it's easy to remember. That usually has me twisting turrets at around 215 and beyond. I can take a shot up to 300 without a twist, but my hunting style usually will give me time to make a few clicks.

A turret don't pigeonhole a guy,unless it's a BDC cam denoted solely in yards..............(grin)

I wanna go shoot, as I've got a ton of stuff to work up. This weather is driving me nuts. Might have to go set up some stuff on the beaches tomorrow if the wind is OK and get some good shooting in.

For most rounds, I "zero" at 200. But I have uses for closer zeros so I have data that allows me to dial down for shorter ranges and for precise targets, IE not deer rib cage, I often do.

I could live with it zero'd at 100 with no issues though too.

Light breeze at my house.............

I sight in for MPBR with either a 2 or 3 inch radius target depending on the intended use of the rifle. This usually gets me out to 300+ or - yards before I have to start spinning turrets.

200 is probably the best way to go. I looked at your question pretty close when I ordered my last CDS dial. it really doesn't help to start out more than 200 because on the back end you don't gain that much,

so on a CDS scope say your max is 800 yards in one turn starting at 200 yards. if you start at 300 yards, you get 35-50 yards on the back end, so your range just goes to 850ish on the back end. the lack of extra yardage on the back end doesn't make up for the extra problems you get close in.

CDS is consumate uprope pissin'...............

Turrets ain't voodoo. Never had to scratch muh haid when stickin' a dime in the slot. Turrets are no different.



Switched to turrets so's I didn't have to carry spare change.

Chick's with Adam's Apples...ain't Chicks.

Though they will take dimes.................(grin)

Try turrets without the clicks and stay with the friction set-up.


You can "split" the clicks when shootin' way out there.


Cool beans.

Pass. there ain't a night long enough.

The only thing friction is good for,is makin' fire...............

Stick, your take on windage turrets........or do you aim into the breeze and hold your tongue right?

Unless you are shooting at mice...I certainly cannot see dicking with a scope for an animal that is only 250 yds away!

Ele is Physics,wind is VooDoo. M1 ele,flush windage.

Duplex.................

Montucky 7-08 on Gunbroker.. I have the bid but dont want it as I bought some other toys! Fetch boys!!

I'm sure those watching it and trying to keep it on the "down-low" will thank you for driving the price up.

You don't have to. But, I'll choose to when I have a good animal peeking at me, while standing in the brush and I don't have much wiggle room.

Much escapes you.

I guess they are welcome... Its the 15min rule anyway.. its a fugn non-issue..

I don't think there is a wrong answer here.

Alot depends on your situation. I hunt in some places where I may get a shot from 50-500 yds.

If I get an eyeball peeking from behind the trees at 50-75 yds. I want it on.

If something pops out at 250 and I'm pressed for time, it's not quite a 6" drop with a 100 yd zero on my 7 Shortmag (160's).

That is easy enough to hold for.

JM

Don't worry, if I ever decide to get drunk, and go after some dink deer, I will call you for advice.

LOL

Steelhead: I have gotten out of my truck for a "days Antelope Hunting" numerous times, EVERY year since 1969 - I am guessing about 425 days worth of Antelope Hunting.
I have NEVER "twisted a turret" even ONCE during those MANY days afield.
I don't mind saying to you, I am a rather successful Antelope Hunter!
I sight my Rifles in at a known range and have on hand a basic trajectory chart out to 500 yards either placed inside my rear Butler Creek flip-up scope cover or taped to my Rifles stock.
The chart is instantly available and is thought out in advance to give me the utmost in "hold on hair" ranges my caliber is capable of.
Rather often anymore (as Antelope Hunting pressures have increased over the years) I need to make quick reference to my chart after taking a Leica lasered ranging and place my scopes crosshairs where they need be held for longer ranges.
This is faster than twisting scope turrets and MORE RELIABLE - there is a noteable number of "scopes" manufactured today that do not reliable "adjust" the bullet impact point until after the first shot!
I advise all first time Antlope Hunters to tape on a basic trajectory chart and use "hold-over" for the longer ranges (past hold on hair distances).
I hope your scope reliably puts your turret twisted adjustment to the correct new P.O.I. every time - if it does it is among the seemingly few exceptions.
Over the decades I have seen countless turret twisters "puzzled" why their shot was off - I have seen far fewer folks with trajectory charts and a good knowledge of proper holdover experience the "unexplained and puzzling misses".
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

Bullshit

Yup, should frame that one.....

The only true way to understand turrets.

Holdover is pure gambling.
Use proper optics. They are better than any human.

Don't appear none too daunting,but actually shooting...has been knowed to much skew Theoretical supposition.




But a thermometer may stump some folks too.................

Saved for posterity.

Damn turret, almost cost me this one...[rolls eyes]

I suggest you chew on a revolver and save us from all your sore cunny issues.

Good seeing Varmintgal still don't have a [bleep] clue.

Nice cutters! That in Utah and or Wyo?

Dober

Those turrets would be ok if they didn't have those needless MOA markings.....

Headed out to the paint shop now,with rifle in hand...mulling me some thunks..............(grin)

Utah

i bet your a pretty good cook the way you stir the pot and all

Damn, I just realized that is a greybull!

Beautiful lope, hope to draw Wyo this year..can't get enough of them. U hunt Utah in Sept or Oct for lopes? And how tough is it for you to draw in Utah?

Range, round etc..?

Thx 4 sharing

Dober

I zero at 100.

And hunt it at 250.

There's some great antelope here, but the best units take upwards of 12 years to draw. Took me six years of applying to draw a mediocre tag, but it was a fun hunt in some beautiful country. Took place in mid September just outside of Bryce Canyon (Paunsaugunt/Mt. Dutton Unit).

I looked over the herd pretty good for five days, and while I saw taller bucks, they were spindly horned and didn't have any cutters to speak of, so I decided to take this one after I'd seen him a couple of times.

Rifle is a Kimber Montana .300 WSM wearing a Leupold VXIII 2.5-8x36mm w/M1 elevation turret. I shoot factory Federal Premium 165gr Barnes TSX. Range was 486 yards, as verified by my Leica 10x42 Geovids.

Amazing how well that ranging, dialing, and holding on hair stuff works...

Nice kill and good shot too.

He's forgotten more than Big Stick knows..







Long Live Leupold & Stephine's Co..
Hold your breath

RDFinn

When I first started dialing, I kept a 100 yd zero. I have since changed to a 200 yd zero.

JD338

Her Imagination is the big one......................(grin)

Misjudged the wind a little bit, but it worked.

I agree. If someone cannot hit a big game animal within 400 yards, without spinning a turret, they are retarded.

You have to remember though, Steelhead is always drunk, or battling the shakes, so he needs all the hand holding he can get.

Depends on the caliber & boolit as to the degree of retardation.

Holding over 70+ inches with a 300 gr. 45-70 sighted in for 200 would be kinda retarded don't ya think?

I'd not being trying to "hit an animal",when I could earhole it as per whim instead................

Pretty low calling a guy a drunk across the internet..

That said, even if Scott did develop a mysterious case of the shakes, I still put my money on him over you when it came to shooting...

Beats hell out of being a constant dumpphuck with a itchy puzzy.




Some of Dogsucker223's gems.































See a trend?

That's ok Pete, he's still pizzed that he had to actually call me on rifle build advice and when I called back a few hours later I had a good chat with the chick at the end of the line. It was still likely her posting, as I can't imagine a man that has as many cunny issues as Bitchcatcher223

Hell, she's also the only silly bitch to EVER have a Camerland 'issue'. Course she is consistent.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/4764631/1

Between fighting mean spiders for gun parts and stock checkering his Rugers with a phillips head, he's been a busy man.

Laffin.

Becareful what you say - you want to start another shoot out in Montana.

I challenge Round Oak to hatchets at 300 yds.

If you make it tomahawks - your on.

Water on the keyboard and out my nose!! Thanks JM LMAO

Steelhead, it has been fun watching you inch toward rock bottom over the years... hang tight, you'll get there!

Always have zero'd mine at 100yds, but 100yds has been the longest of any of my shots. Most are way less than that on running hogs. Used to run my 270 win at 200yds back when I lived in open country where you could see for miles.

Maybe one of these days I'll have a bunch of money burning a whole in my pocket and get one of the zeiss conquest 6.5-20x50 with the target turrets to play around with.

Sometimes it's safer to stay under the covers with the flashlight and some extra batteries.

Since "zero" is a floating concept on a turret-equipped scope, I keep life simple and run a 100-yard nominal zero.

This makes it easier to check it if necessary (I have a 100-yard range on my property), and of course if I'd rather be running (say) 2" high at 100 yards for a MPBR-type setup, it's easy enough too dial up 8 clicks on the turret.

For most purposes around HERE, I prefer to just leave things mechanically zeroed at 100 yards anyway, to keep the bullet as close to the line of sight as possible in the thicker stuff. But that is just me optimizing for the conditions. When I hunt over east (Oregon) I click up to a 200-yard zero... usually...

Scott,

You forgot this gem when someone asked about a Minox ZA5...





Of course Skywalker asked him twice if he'd ever used one and he never answered.