I loctite base screws but never the ring screws. Do you?
Yes, all the mount screws get blue loctite.
mike r
All my scope screws, base screws, stock screws, etc get blue loctite (medium). I also put a dab of nail polish on the outside so I can quickly see if the seal was "broken" on the screw.
I've always done just the base and windage, but never the ring screw. Made sure everything was degreased well before hand. That's the way I was taught. The first time I ever had an issue was when I started using the wheeler torque wrench, had a couple loosen up. I may start putting a smidgen on my ring screws now.
Always on base screws; never on ring screws.
Always on base screws; never on ring screws.
+1.
DF
Yes! Always a drop on both the base and screw rings when torqued to specified lbs.
I did for the first time last year. I gad to have one of the screws cut off. I don't know if I'll do it again.
Use Blue Loctite, never the Red
Nail varnish on the threads of every screw, and enough to show around the screw head when the screws are tight. Usually some lurid shade that my wife no longer likes. As someone said earlier, you can easily see if a screw's moved, because the nail varnish gives it away.
No, never had the rings loosen. They are easy to access anyway if I want to check tightness - I'll do this occasionally as a precaution. I have once put a dab under the ring itself (between ring and scope) due to one pesky scope shifting forward slightly under recoil - the ring screws were as tight as could be.
I glue rails or bases down with epoxy, which has better gap filling properties than anaerobic glues (ie loctite) and get plenty into the screw head pockets and threads.
I line my scope rings with sellotape and grease all ring screws and clamping screws
Years ago, I blue loctited all my base and ring screws. A gunsmith that’s on this forum told me to stop. Cause they are a real pita to remove. Stopped using any loctite on scope mounting about 10 years ago. I degrease the screws and holes, and torque them to spec. Have had zero problems. I don’t have any big guns, 30/06 and 7 mag the biggest.
I don’t, check every year
I have been putting blue loctite on all my screws for years and have never had a problem removing them when needed.
Yes.....blue Loctite on all screws. Also, blue Loctite inside rings....no chance of scope “slippage”! memtb
The last set of Leupold rings and bases came with blue Loctite already on them.
Loctite 222 Threadlocker PurplePurple Threadlocker (222) is great for use on scope base & ring screws, set screws, calibration screws, meters and gauges. This non-wicking formula is recommended
for fasteners from #2 through 1/4" and cures in 10 minutes with full strength in 24 hours. Easy to use; simply degrease the screws and screw holes with a quality cleaner/degreaser, apply a drop of threadlocker and thread screws in place. Requires only hand tools to remove once applied.
Permatex® Low Strength Threadlocker PURPLEOEM specified. Low strength threadlocker designed
for fasteners under 1/4″ (6mm) that require occasional adjustment. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly. Noncorrosive. Conforms to ASTM D 5363 AN0311 (Mil-S-46163A, Type II, Grade M).
Permatex 24024 Low Strength Threadlocker Purple, 6 ml Tube - Amazon
Degrease and torque to spec, never the need for loc-tite on the rings. If I were, it would be purple. Also, let it dry before application.
Degrease and torque to spec, never the need for loc-tite on the rings. If I were, it would be purple. Also, let it dry before application.
Loctite cures anaerobically, only in the absence of air.
Yes.
And I Loctite the scope in the rings........
Always on base screws; never on ring screws.
+1.
DF
Why would you not put it in the ring screws?
Yep, I always use blue #243 on base and ring screws. Usually I use green #680 retaining compound to bed the base(s) to the receiver. Nothing comes loose until I want it to (and no need to constantly check torque on the screws), but it's not difficult to remove.
i also use loctite medium strength on both base and ring cap screws but in the paste formula. i like it waaaay better than a liquid.
Big Ed
Degrease and torque to spec, never the need for loc-tite on the rings. If I were, it would be purple. Also, let it dry before application.
Loctite cures anaerobically, only in the absence of air.
I said to let it dry, not to let it cure. That is different scenarios. The surface of the Loc-Tite will dry and make better application once installed when done correctly. This is why so many manufactures pre-apply loc-tite on their products before sending them out.
Are you letting it skin over for cleaner application with liquid loctite under the skin? There are products designed to be applied and assembled later. Vibra-Tite for example. Loctite also has a tape for this scenario.
Never applied to ring screws and have never regretted it.
Degrease and install tightened to correct tolerances.I have never had problems.
Degrease and torque to spec, never the need for loc-tite on the rings. If I were, it would be purple. Also, let it dry before application.
Loctite cures anaerobically, only in the absence of air.
I said to let it dry, not to let it cure. That is different scenarios. The surface of the Loc-Tite will dry and make better application once installed when done correctly. This is why so many manufactures pre-apply loc-tite on their products before sending them out.
No. The pre-applied lock patches are a completely different product than liquid Loctite you and I can buy in a bottle. It's not the same thing and they don't work the same way. Even Loctite/Henkel doesn't say to let their liquid threadlockers "dry" before installing.