This year I am going pronghorn hunting for the first time. Actually, it will be my first hunt out west. We will be in WY. For you experienced pronghorn hunters, what optics would you recommend, in order to be well equipped?

I know to buy the best glass I can afford, so I am not asking what brand, but what size and power binos?

Is a spotting scope necessary? If so, what would you recommend? I would be looking for good value here. Does not have to be the very best but a nice scope.

I plan on getting a Lieca rangefinder. I am thinking the CRF 900 from Doug. I haven't asked his opinion but is there a reason to spend the extra money on the CRF 1200?

I am not rich so I will hunt with whatever I end up with, but with a little time to save still, I want to figure out what optics are most important.

#1: Good Binoculars. 8x or 10x. Large objective lens is not mandatory because most hunting is done during daylight hours. Weight is a consideration because you'll be walking.
#2: Rangefinder. Don't let someone talk you out of a longer maximum distance model because "you don't shoot that far". For starters, you rarely get the maximum distance with live game in flat country. Secondly, it's a very useful tool for stalking: "the antelope are 900 yards away, and that knoll is 675. If you can reach the knoll the antelope are in range" The 900 yard Leica model is a very good model, and the 1200s are even better.

A spotting scope is nice but not as important as the others.

Try to balance the funds between good binoculars and a good rangefinder. If I were really scrimped, I'd get good binocs and a cheaper rangefinder.

I hunt antelpoe almost every year and don't own anything but 3x9's, If your just going to hunt antelope you can go up from there on scopes.
Binos I got a good pair of 10x50's. you will use your bino's more than anything, hours and hours of glassing

Spotting scopes can save ya a lot of time going after a buck that may not be as good as you think he is. if your not going to hold out for a B&C put your money else were.

As for a rangefinder they'er one of the best thing out on the market for hunting antelope. I'm not a longrange shooter so the CRF 900 would be fine for me.

A good set of binocs and a flat shooting rifle. These, along with a pair of good boots, leather gloves toward off prickly pear, a bipod for your rifle and a scope that you will allow you confidently shoot to your comfort range. There are a number of good scopes on the market that will suffice for antelope hunting. A 3-9x40 with an AO will be more than adequate. Remember, these are not big animals and have good eye sight. The best part of the hunt is stalking into reasonable shooting range. I use an XP-100 to hunt 'lopers exclusively. Gotta get into range and put 'em down with the first shot. Good luck!

Most any rifle scope will allow you to shoot antelope to 3 or 4 hundred yards. I use a Swift 3x9 on my 250 savage and I have never wished for more.
I use Brunton Eterna 8x45 binoculars. I love them. Unless the mirage is really bad, I can differentiate bucks from does from a mile away or more sometimes. If the mirage is bad enough that I can't see with the binos, a spotting scope would just be worse. A spotting scope will help you judge horns that you can see with binos. If you aren't looking to get a big antelope, just an average for the area or a tad more, then one of the Burris Landmark type spotters will get it done. If you are really going to try and judge an antelope down to the last inch, then break out the plastic and go whole hog on the spotter. Antlelope are tough to judge and you really need to be able to SEE what you are looking at. Resolution is what you want, not necessarily a lot of Xs. Try Sightron and Brunton for the best value there.
Hunters should not be allowed to come out here without a rangefinder. What looks like revolver distance is really 150yds. I use a Leica 900. If money weren't so tight I'd upgrade to a 1200. Across flat, sunny, open, ground, without a tripod for the rangefinders, you're lucky to get good, consistent readings of 1/3 your rated capacity on the rangefinder.

Everybody's got good input....Ive probably killed more Antelope looking through a 3x9 scope than all the others combined, its all you need. My binocs are 8x30 Swarovski and all I ever wanted. However, if a more budget minded bino is on the agenda, go up in power to 10x42...Nikon Monarchs are good at a good price. If you are looking for that extra inch of horn, a spotting scope will save you some crawling...
Ingwe

a fixed 6x power, 3-9x40, 2.5-8x36, or 3.5-10x40 ... any of those will work more than perfectly well ...

just pack a good set of glasses to top it all off ...

Binoculars are the first consideration. Actually, I like to carry two pair. One around my neck that doesn't weigh more than 25 ozs. and one in my pack that weighs alot more. If I had to make do with just one, I'd go for the heavier one.
That's because the extra weight really helps to kill the image shake. The further out the subject, the more the image shake will block your ability to see fine details. I've got two binoculars that are equal in image quality/sharpness. One weighs 25 ozs., a Nikon LX 8X, and a 34oz. Leica 8X. From a field position, the Leica shows me lots more as the distance increases.
Either an 8X or a heavier 10X would work well. However, it does need to be a quality optic. I've found that there are much better optics out there that cost as much as the Nikon Monarchs. Try some of the mid/lower priced Leupolds or the Pentaxes.
The second place optic would be a good range finder. I use a Leica 800 which works fine for me.
Like was said, ranges can be very decieving. When you get to the hunting area, practice guessing ranges with your range finder before you hunt. That will help.
I like to glass with the sun low and behind me. Pronghorn can be seen at 3 plus miles under such conditions. In the middle of the day, if it's very warm, they are much harder to see. E

Thanks for the feedback guys,

I have a selection of scopes I can use. I will probably end up using my 7mm mag with a 3-9x40. It doesn't sound like I need a 4.5-14x50 according to what you guys have said.

I will be shopping for the right binos probably in 10x and if I can find a good deal on a spotter, I figure the two other guys I am hunting with, and I can all get some use out of it.

Keep the advice commin.

I think you're way over gunned, but if that is your favorite shooting iron then by all means use it. My personal favorite is the 250Savage, but I have all the time in the world to kill an antelope each season. When people ask "What's the best cartridge for antelope I'll recommend either the 25-06 or the 257 Weatherby, with 100gr bullets." (You didn't ask, but I told you anyway) When comparing the optics, remember, Resolution is THE most important property. Google up a bird watching site. Those guys are hard core when it comes to binos. You'll probably learn a lot.

SNR, I think your right. I would like to take my brand new Montana in 260 out there but I have not been able to part with the cash for it yet (but I may). I am in between too much, or not enough gun for this hunt so I may have to make do with what I have.

I have read some bird forums and I've learned I need more money...but who doesn't. I have a little time, and for me, gearing up is part of the fun.

My biggest pronghorn was killed over a pair of Zeiss 10x40's jammed into the dirt to serve as a rifle rest; the goat was a bit under 400 yards and was shot with a 257 Roberts wearing a 4X leupold.

My first antelope was killed in Montana with a 270,and ....a 4X Leupold. I have no idea how many I've killed, but IIRC,all have been shot with a 4X scope....

We had no range finders in the Pleistocene era.....

I killed My biggest antelope with a 375 H&H, My 270 win was damaged in a hores reck while elk hunt the week before.

Good spotter will help you size em up. I use a ST 80. My first antelope hunt, I was just itchin to try out my 257 Wby, ended up killin a good goat at 172 yards. If you don't want to shoot a long ways, watch em, then cougar in on em when the times right. Puttin in for Montana goats this year, good times....

That's what's good about 375's. They do everything!

votewhisperer: You are getting some very good advice on optics from Campfire folks. I also agree with SRM on looking at birding websites, as they offer real good info about binocs. I bought a pair Swift Ultra-Lite 8x42 roofs and am verrry impressed! Might give those a thought. Thet're in the same price range as most, maybe a little less. Rifle optics for me[on my .25-06] for pronghorn is a Burris Fullfeild2 3x9 with Ballistic plex. Easy to use, very sharp. Hope this helps. Good luck.

IMO if all you can afford is the Leica 900 then that is what you buy, if you can afford the 1200 then buy them. I know for a fact that with the 1200 I was able to range a single pronghorn at 700 yards. I don't own the Leica but my hunting buddy does and it is by far the best rangefinder I've used. I agree a rangefinder is nice when stalking.

I like 8X or 10X compact binos for chasing goats. I made the mistake of buying a set or RB800 Leupold range finding binos years ago. They are so heavy I usually leave them with the truck, plus they will not range a single pronghorn past 300 yards most days. They seem to work better if there is a slight overcast and they worked great in AK, but not on the plains of Eastern CO.

Most of my scopes are in 1.75-6 through 3-9 power range although I've got one 3.5-10 power Bushnell Sportview that gets occasional use on pronghorn. I really don't see any need for more power range than a 3-9 power. To me the glass is more important than the magnification.

Like others have said unless you are looking for a record book buck don't bother with the spotting scope.

Yotewhisperer: I Hunt Antelope virtually every year - and have since 1969, or for 40 years. Often in two states each year!
Long ago I learned that the best quality optics you can afford will increase your success rate, diminish eye strain and headaches AND save a lot of wasted efforts!
I have used a lot of brands of optics over the decades but I almost always fall back on my tried and true 9x35 Bausch & Lomb Zephyrs (made in Rochester, New York) and my Unertl 27 power spotting scope - these were also manufactured in the U.S.A.
With this Unertl 27 power spotting scope you can evaluate a Buck Antelopes horns (with the rising sun at your back - good Hunting tip enclosed there!) at incredible distances!
I am NOT exagerating this attribute of the Unertl spotter at all.
Unfortunately both those splendid optics are no longer made.
Look for them on the used market however.
I have "fall back" or "back-up" optics that always go along with me.
For the last few years the back-up optics I have brought along are a pair of Nikon 12x50 binoculars and a straight 20 power Nikon Earth & Sky armored spotting scope.
You did not ask for any Rifle scope advice - specifically - so in case I misunderstood your post I don't want to leave out that important optic.
98% of the time I only use Leupold Riflescopes when Big Game Hunting of all types - reliability, performance and endurance are the main reasons here.
On my main Hunting Rifle (a Remington 700 Sendero in 270 Winchester) I have been using a wonderful Leupold 8.5x25 variable scope - I have taken Trophy Antelope with this set-up out to a Leica Lasered 506 yards!
Someone mentioned you COULD do this with a 3x9 scope - I wouldn't even try that!
Decades ago I was using (and handicapped by using!) 3x9 scopes while Hunting Buck Antelope on public lands!
Been there - learned THAT laesson.
Thats why I rely on higher powered variable scopes and have for many years!
Mainly because, todays "trophy" size Buck Antelope are VERY difficult to get within 350 yards of!
I was fully confident of the shot I made on that 506 yard Buck with that Rifle and scope combination.
On my back-up Rifle (Remington 700 VLS in 260 Remington caliber) I have a Leupold 6.5x20 variable scope.
Make sure (and this can be awkward to verify before you buy them!) you are acquiring an optic that after lengthy use each day does NOT give you eyestrain or headaches.
My Leica Laser Rangefinder is the CRF 900 model by the way.
Best of luck in Wyoming this fall!
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

I like that. I see myself using that expression a few times when I get out there.

Thanks again guys for the good info.

My .02 is any rifle/scope combo you can shoot out to 400 yards.

I like to take my time and look for a big buck, for this my spotter is about the most important piece of gear i take, i use a swaro sts 80mm.

scince the posters above covered everything pretty good, i have just one thing to add that may help, and thats knee pads, i use the type that strap on. it took me years of digging cacti out of my knee's to figure out i needed to do somthing about it!

Get yourself Leica's 10x42 Geovids, with built-in rangefinder.
It's all you will ever need for antelope hunting.

Same here... scope was a 2-7 however

A good pair of binocs and any decent rifle with any scope from 4X to a 3-9 will suffice. A rangefinder is a far more intellegent place to put your shekels than a spotting scope. They're useful for sure, but not a necessity by any means

I've put in for goat tags in Montana every year since I've been old enough to hunt. I average a tag every 3-4 years it seems. Montana, once you draw an either sex tag, they usually give you a chance at 1 or more doe/fawn tags (back in the day, it was usually 3 doe tags)

The spotter is the easy part. Take the one you've already got, and spend the money on a good truck window mount

Binos... I use the same pair of early Pentax 8x40 DCF WPs I've had for the last 5 years or so. just make sure they're a pair that you can spend HOURS behind. If I lived in goat country, I'd buy a pair of 10x'ers.

My goat rifle for the last 14 years has been a Model 7 in 260. Once Nosler came out with the 100 grain Partition, I needed look no further for a goat bullet. It wears a 2-7x33 Loopy with a Duplex reticle...

Which brings us to my favorite range finder. An average antelope goes 13" from the top of its back to the bottom of the briscut (a bigger buck might go 14") At 400 yards that same antelope fits between the horizontal wire and the pickett perfectly and that means its inside my "comfort zone" shooting prone with a Turner 1903 sling (also why I like a 2-7x, less apparent wobble)

Which brings us to the more important equipment... Elbow and kneepads that are nicely padded and cactus-proof Leather gloves ain't a bad idea either. And don't forget good tweezers either (buy them from a medical supply house if you can)

Get a belt buckle that you can wear out, you're going to do some crawling.

Brad and Bob, my very first goat was with a 30-06 and a 2-7 VariXII.

I agree with the cactus proof stuff. My combo is a RDX IV range finder, 10X56 binoculars, 6.5 to 20 power scope, .257 Weatherby working on the third barrel, 115 gr Barnes. This combo has worked for me for years except the RDX range finder, which is only two years old. You'll laugh, but I used a Weaver range finder for over ten years before. I am not sure who made it, but there were about five or six brands who sold the exact same unit with their name on it.
Good shooting,
Marcus.

x3 on elbow/knee pads and leather gloves. Spend money first on real good rangefinder. It will have a 6x 7x or 8x objective. I like my 10x28 pocket swarovski binos. Spotting scope will definitely cut down on miles traveled on foot/belly

IMHO for Antelope a quality pair of 15X bino's and leave the spotter behind

I like my 8x30 Lieca or Swaro binos. Light, compact, and easy to slide inside a shirt or vest while crawling in.

I agree wholeheartedly with the cactus recommendations. You will wear out your endurance, hands and knees crawling around the country long before you get to enjoy any optical benefits if you aren't in good shape and somewhat protected.

Never had any use for a spotting scope, too much weight to crawl around with. Unless you spend your hunting time behind the wheel or over the hood. You'll know a good buck when you see it through a quality bino. Heavy horns and a solid black face are easy to see.

I also use an old Lieca rangefinder, I think it is the 800 model. It does everything needed. Anything less will not work well on a furry critter in normally flat, treeless ground. You've got to be able to get a read off of the antelope and will not find many nearby rocks, shrubs, barns, fenceposts or other things to get a good return from.

Riflescope selection is not critical, after all it is only a sighting instrument when used in normally high light antelope hunting. You'll use your bino constantly and your scope only once or twice in a hunt. I have Leupold Vari or VX-III 2.5-8 scopes on most of my big game rifles. Clarity and resolution is more important than power. I usually shoot at less than 6 power anyway, as it helps to reduce the shakes from a less than solid rest, even using a bipod. I'm usually stretching to get above grass or a roll in the topography. Spend lots of time at the range shooting from various uncomfortable prone positions to get used to the less than ideal conditions you'll find in the field. Even better is to find some open ground (BLM, grassland, or a rancher friend's property) and practice walking crouched over and crawling for 100 yards or so, dropping to prone and getting off an aimed shot in less than a minute. That will get you used to a less than perfect set up and you won't be prone to spend as much time in the field trying to get comfortable and studying the shot. Bench shooting is meaningless.

Since my first inexperienced kill at 325 yards many years ago, I've only shot one antelope beyond 150 yards. They are rather easy to sneak in on once you get the hang of using the topo and any vegetation present. Stay low, then get lower. They may have great eyesight, but aren't particularly wary if you stay off of your feet and below the skyline. In fact, they often walk closer to see what is rolling around in the grass.

Good luck and enjoy what I believe is the best of all big game hunts.

Last year I used 10x42 Geovids and pard used 8x42 Minox HG's. We used them a TON and both worked very well. Any good 8x or 10x will fill the bill. We used a spotter quite a bit as well, not just from the truck. In the AM we'd leave the truck and generally not be back until at or near sunset so I stuffed the spotter in my pack. The spotter saved us untold miles by being able to judge whether a particular group had a good buck in it or not. We both wore Badlands 2200 packs but packed them pretty light. Enough water for the day, a couple granola bars, a knife, some Lg ziplocks (3gal) for meat, and the spotter in my pack. IMO, the spotter was worth packing the weight. We were both running 4.5-14 scopes, pard has a Zeiss, Leupold for myself. Both Antelope were taken on 4.5x, pards @ 175yds and mine @ 80yds. 270Win with factory 130 Interbonds for my pard and 257Wby 100TSX for myself..

These guys are giving great advice. If you can swing the Leica rangefinder, you will use it.

As far as binoculars, if you don't have a phobia about Chinese, the Zen Ray ED glass in either 8 or 10X is geting rave reviews. They are under $500, and are said to rival the big three Europeon brands.

While I think you are overgunned (I prefer a .25-06 or 6.5x55), if you are confident in the rifle, use it. Practice at 2-300 yards if possible using a bipod-another useful tool. If you do your part, shots will be closer to 100 yards than 300+.

Have fun. If we get drawn this year, maybe I will see you up there.

I don't believe you need the highest priced pair of Bino's or most expensive rifle or rifle scope to collect your antelope but I do believe that you need very good magnafication to be able to see those animals afar.

I have hunted antelope or speedgoats with a .270 Winchester and later with a 6mm Remington caliber model 700 BDL. My choice of power in a rifle scope back then was a 3 x 9 power Weaver. Nowdays I use a 25-06 or 6.5/06 with a 6 x 18 Leupold VX-2. However, this year I am going to take along a 6.5/300WSM and a Bushnell 3200 elite with turrets in a 5 x 15 power....who knows, maybe I'll get lucky far out youndar way!

My Bino's are 10 x 50 power Pentax model DCF SP, a mid-range price at $700 dollars. There is no subsitute for a top of the line range finder like the Leica, beats the Bushnell by far in my humble opinion. As was mentioned by another forum member, a good "spotting scope" is a must. I have an 80mm lense with variable power from 20 to 60 power. You really need a good spotting scope, to distinguish the cream of the crop in a trophy animal.

You will do more looking then shooting, so glass is important. A good pare of 10x50 glasses will work and it really helps to have a spotting scope once you spot them. I have my 20 power spotting scope on a stock and I love it. You still need to steady it on something when you can but its much handier then a tri pod.

Ditto 10x on binoculars, but in my opinion 50mm objective is not necessary. Antelope are not noctournal like deer and elk. Most of the time you will have plenty of daylight. 50mm is nice but heavy. If you're getting the binocs strictly for antelope, I think 10x40 is a better choice since you may be doing lots of walking, and you don't want something heavy around your neck. That's my $.0x.