i read that Roundup will kill it. anyone had any luck with doing that or something else available to the general public?

this is what the USDA says:

Roundup is mainly a grass killer. For woody plants, a 2,4-D such as Crossbow will probably be more effective. I have mixed both together and had good luck killing everything that is green.

I keep my fencerows and anythig else that needs spraying with a 50-50 mix of glysophate and 2-4-D. It works.

This is a common misconception. Roundup is used to kill grasses, because 2-4D is ineffective on grass.

But Roundup will kill broadleafs (kochia, scotch, Canadian, bull thistle, sweet clover, dandelions, redroot, lambsquarter) as quickly and as well as it does grass. Often at lower cost, and definitely at lower cost than the combination.

I use RU where I want everything dead. I use 2-4D where I want to leave the grasses alive, like lawn or pasture.

And for woody shrubs, BlackBerry, or pestilent chinese elm tree, I apply Brash, or Rangestar, or Weedmaster 638. Each of which is a blend of 2-4D with Dicamba.

Whichever product I am applying, I mix 4 oz per gallon water, and spot spray until the target plant is dripping wet, or put on a spray bar and mist with enough coverage to leave the soil wet to appearance. I use a 25 gallon electric pump sprayer with a 6 foot spray bar w/ 4 Tjets strapped to the back of my ATV.

Knotweed can be a pain to get rid of.
The best ones to ask are sometimes the extension agents. Not always the ones in your county. Sometimes I contact the research professors who do field trials on agrl issues. I try to find a paper on NATURAL remedies. They are usually much safer than herbacides.
I can tell you one thing for certain.
Just a Friendly warning.
Round up/ glyphosate is called liquid cancer for a reason....much deserved reason. Who knows how much exposure it takes to end up with cancer....

My brother was warned of this. He applied it anyhow around Mom's fence line. Next thing we know, our healthy family dog has a big tumor in her stomach.

Asplunhd company was hired to trim and clear electric line rideaways in my part of the state.
I was working outside one day for the county and city near the city water reservoir. Note this is a lake designed for drinking water.
He pulls up with a tanker full of round up.
He asks me permission to spray under and around the power lines surrounding the Waters edge.
I tell him NO! It's POISON!
He says, you can drink it, it's so safe! REALLY.
He keeps trying to tell me something working for assplund like he's some expert because he read the label.
I've had 5 years of big ag indoctrination and still didn't buy their propaganda.

I say, You can do round up shots and beer chasers for all I care. But you aren't spraying poison into everyone's tap water. Now get the hell out of here!

That said,

I understand your need to get rid of this crazy weed.
Last thing, if you don't mind me adding. If you use crossbow, or whatever recommended, take safety precautions.
A sponge dabber on a stick to paint the cut stems, IF recommended by manufacturer and experts. It is easier to control. Plastic bags over shoes. Some companies recommend disposable one use clothes minimum. Some ag specialists suggest hazmat and respirator, gloves, etc. I've got a poison ivy patch that's out of hand and a little tree. I'll be using one use clothes and painting the cut truck. Hopefully that will destroy the roots. This beats messing up my ground water with crossbow spray. A few dabs might do.
We'll see.

Hopefully whatever route will work for you.

Here's what my herbalist/ wild Edibles mentor made from your weed. Springtime though.
And better than apple crisp!!!


http://www.thegardenofeating.org/2016/05/strawberry-apple-japanese-knotweed-crisp.html?m=1

I would have PAID for that advice. Much thanks! I have a smallish lot and not pasture like some here but this is really helpful!

I'm having great success killing everything using 1oz per gallon glycophosphate (Cornerstone plus) along with 1 oz per gallon 2,4-d, (standard % but I don't recall brand) with 1/4oz per gallon surfactant. Mix surfactant with the water first, then add the 2,4-D then finally the glycophosphate. Based upon hours of internet. LOL

We bought 1.7 acres last year (May) and I could not keep up with the weed infestation, perennials and annuals, left for us last summer. Hitting them hard now and digging the mix above. Knocks cheat grass on it's ass.


Ones for emergent vegetation one's for the roots. Both work when plants are in their growing phase.

Japanese and Giant knotweeds are a problem in Michigan.

Milestone works pretty well in my backyard. It and other chemical control methods are discussed in the brochure published by the state. Roundup is not recommended for a bunch of reaons. Milestone has some negatives also.

Link to the brochure: Japanese Knotweed - Best control practices

Good luck.
--Bob

Actually, both are systemic. They are absorbed by the vegetation and carried to the roots. And both work on any suscecepticle green plants at any stage of growth.

Though an annual application can be most efficacious during the bolting stage. (rapid stem growrh).

A surfactant is used as a wetting agent, to actually get your chemical past a fuzzy or waxy surface and into the pest's cells. I actually find it to be a waste of money in most cases. That would depend on your target pest.(weed)

While I see anecdotes of 2-4 D use on very young, emergent cheat, as well as other grasses. It is not really a recommended use of the product.

While Roundup is the product currently in the news and the one being targeted by the globalists at this time. 2-4 D is actually much more dangerous to mammalian life forms, and is also much more prone to volatilise and drift to nontarget areas.

We call the 2-4 D/Roundup mix feel good spray, because it feels good to see those broadleafs wilting away within a couple hours. But actually, the broadleafs would be just as dead within a week or so if you just hit them with the Roundup.

As to controlling your cheatgrass, the most effective method is a preemergent. I like Krovar, there are others. Krovar is often mixed into lawn weed and feed by commercial applicators. And it is used between the rows in orchards. Krovar does not harm your existing mature plants, but prevents germination of new seed. One application of Krovar in the late fall, or very early spring will eliminate cheat grass, kocia, dandelions, etc through the following summer. I like to apply it over the snow in late Jan or early Feb. One application and done for the year. No RU or 2-4 D needed.

But what do I know. I only carried a commercial applicator's license for sixteen years, along with the 12 to 16 hours of annual recertification training. And during that time kept 300 acres of commercial bare ground weed (and grass) free, at minimal cost in materials and labor.

Crossbow the frag out of that shlt.

We do not have an issue with knotweed in this location. Based on your linked brochure, it looks like one of the 2-4 D/dicamba blends previously mentioned would be safe and fairly effective.

^^^This^^^ and be done with it.