Back when I was a kid and got my first pair of LL Bean Maine hunting boots (pre Gore-Ted) it was drilled into me that you had to treat your leather boots at least yearly, and twice when they were new. As I reached for the tin of mink oil this morning to treat my new Danners, I got to wondering if this was still a “thing”, or if it’s gone the way of the Dodo along with our fathers and grandfathers?
I still mink oil my leather hunting boots. Put it on good and thick then let the boots set in the hot sun for a few days. Once a year treatment, about this time of the year.
A mix of sno-pruf and mink oil, then sun til it soaks in/. Has worked for two generations of LLBean Maine Hunting Shoe- probably the most effective quiet boot in the woods. Going since about 1912.
I used it for years, but don't like how much it softens the leather. Like you, I have been researching what's best for leather goods. I contacted a bunch of leather holster makers, and got hold of a tannery/ workshop with a good reputation. If I can find the info I'll post my response of what they recommended.
Just last week I got advise to use toilet wax ring.
I think those are mostly bees wax. At least they used to be.
The snow seal that I used to use on my hiking/hunting boots repels water well. I've been told that it clogs the pores so they don't breath very good after that. That seems to make sense, but it's been years. I used it to make a good rain jacket from an old Korean war cotton field jacket. It breaths some, but nothing like gortex. If I'm not too active, it works like a duck cloth/oil skin drover. I like it.
Ha! Back when I was a wee lad, I worked ever so hard after school scrubbing a saddle with saddle soap. I had that old saddle nice, and brown, and clean. My father then took it to a saddle shop, it came back all oiled up black as coal!
I buy 1 gallon of neatsfoot every few years at TS for $18... gloves and boots, belts, nail pouches, saddles or whatever in the winter with a chip brush soak... practical over pretty.
Just last week I got advise to use toilet wax ring.
I think those are mostly bees wax. At least they used to be.
The snow seal that I used to use on my hiking/hunting boots repels water well. I've been told that it clogs the pores so they don't breath very good after that. That seems to make sense, but it's been years. I used it to make a good rain jacket from an old Korean war cotton field jacket. It breaths some, but nothing like gortex. If I'm not too active, it works like a duck cloth/oil skin drover. I like it.
The more it can breathe the less water resistant it is you fugkin' moron.
Ha! Back when I was a wee lad, I worked ever so hard after school scrubbing a saddle with saddle soap. I had that old saddle nice, and brown, and clean. My father then took it to a saddle shop, it came back all oiled up black as coal!
Thats why the pros are using olive oils or other vegetable oils.
It doesn't darken as bad as neatsfoot....or when it does....its more consistent.
My late ex-bro-in-law used mink oil on some hiking boots back in the 70s for waterproofing. It did that, but it also ate the stitching that held the tongue in place. I have no idea what that stitching was, though.
My father in law used neats foot oil on his boots. then an "expert" said it would rot the leather from the inside since it could not breath. I found this to be true. I haven't used anything for years because, yeah, I don't get out much.
Just last week I got advise to use toilet wax ring.
I think those are mostly bees wax. At least they used to be.
The snow seal that I used to use on my hiking/hunting boots repels water well. I've been told that it clogs the pores so they don't breath very good after that. That seems to make sense, but it's been years. I used it to make a good rain jacket from an old Korean war cotton field jacket. It breaths some, but nothing like gortex. If I'm not too active, it works like a duck cloth/oil skin drover. I like it.
The more it can breathe the less water resistant it is you fugkin' moron.
NO kidding??? There's trade offs with everything. I just figured someone might want a field use description. You can wrap yours with plastic bags for all anyone here cares.
I wear Courtney boots, made in Zim. Combination of cape buff and impala, with a tire tread sole. Courtney sells a care kit that includes a can of their boot wax. Clean the boots and then apply the wax. Buff off excess wax with a soft brush (which is also included in the kit). Works great!
On my Russell boots, I use Obenauf's. Works great on the Russell's. On the Russell Birdshooter boots, be sure to have the dog [bleep] cleaned out of the treads first!
Just last week I got advise to use toilet wax ring.
I think those are mostly bees wax. At least they used to be.
The snow seal that I used to use on my hiking/hunting boots repels water well. I've been told that it clogs the pores so they don't breath very good after that. That seems to make sense, but it's been years. I used it to make a good rain jacket from an old Korean war cotton field jacket. It breaths some, but nothing like gortex. If I'm not too active, it works like a duck cloth/oil skin drover. I like it.
The more it can breathe the less water resistant it is you fugkin' moron.
NO kidding??? There's trade offs with everything. I just figured someone might want a field use description. You can wrap yours with plastic bags for all anyone here cares.
Everyone knows you wrap your foot with the plastic bag, then insert into non-waterproof boot.
At least everyone in our Scout troop in the olden days. Or anyone raised by my parents.
Put them over the boots and they quickly wear a hole in the bottom, rendering them useless.
I switched from neatsfoot to olive oil a few years ago for horse tack and anything else that needs to be oiled and supple. Not sure if it would be very effective for weatherproofing boots.
I switched from neatsfoot to olive oil a few years ago for horse tack and anything else that needs to be oiled and supple. Not sure if it would be very effective for weatherproofing boots.
AKK "Sweet Oil” of the 18th century. I have available several types of oils and grease. None a petrochemical product. Do I still mink oil my footwear??? C’mon I occasionally hunt in braintan. I come up with some dandy concoctions for treating my Monroes and mocs.
No need to tell me, there are some petro distillates in it too.
What's in Obenauf's???..............................SDS says................trade secrets......................mmmmmnn?
Their website says beeswax and propolis and "natural leather conditioning oil", could that be????? Neatsfoot? Mineral oil? Vegetable oil?
Whatever "distillates" in SnoSeal are, they apparently evaporate/dissipate in the warm sun and just leave the wax.
I suppose I could just heat up that block of beeswax I've got out in the shop and try to apply it while still warm. But after having decent success with SnoSeal for 40+ years, I suppose I'll keep using it.
Suits my purposes. Of course, I don't live in AK. But it worked pretty good during the year I lived in SE. And the two years in NW PA, and the 8 years in Humboldt County (60" of rain there a year, not the 12" we have here).
I don't walk around in swamps or muskeg much, if I did I'd probably use some rubber boots and keep the leather ones at home.
The good thing about America................we can all choose how we wish.
Bbassi: Yes I use it from time to time on new boots and for conditioning older/used boots. I am getting low in the tin of it though - I wonder if they still make it? Hold into the wind VarmintGuy
I used it for years, but don't like how much it softens the leather. Like you, I have been researching what's best for leather goods. I contacted a bunch of leather holster makers, and got hold of a tannery/ workshop with a good reputation. If I can find the info I'll post my response of what they recommended.
Question posed the custom holster makers, etc:
"Do you know of and recommend anything for veg tanned leather that I don't want to soften? Ie. vintage bridle leather and veg tanned belts and holsters that need to retain stiffness for functional support. I've ruined too many fine belts with oil more than neglect."
Weaver Leathercraft responded. I was informed to use this on leather jackets. I haven't gotten a response about whether or not it softens boots, belts, and holsters.
PS: One custom holster Craftsman, one of the top who uses exotic hides too, recommends no leather treatment whatsoever other than wiping it off with a damp cloth if dirty. He doesn't speak to boots, but if they become very pliable, you lose support.
I'm a leatherworker (Tango_Alpha_Leather_Goods on Instagram if you want to see my work) and I find some of the responses here, umm, interesting. I use 100% pure neatsfoot oil on most of my goods, along with olive oil on occasion if I'm in the house and don't want to go out to th he shop to get the neatsfoot oil. I've used Obenauf's on my boots in the past, but it's some messy stuff. I may look into this Sno Seal stuff and see what it does and if it's any kind of miracle or not.
I'm a leatherworker (Tango_Alpha_Leather_Goods on Instagram if you want to see my work) and I find some of the responses here, umm, interesting. I use 100% pure neatsfoot oil on most of my goods, along with olive oil on occasion if I'm in the house and don't want to go out to th he shop to get the neatsfoot oil. I've used Obenauf's on my boots in the past, but it's some messy stuff. I may look into this Sno Seal stuff and see what it does and if it's any kind of miracle or not.
Good to hear of your work. Ill check that out. I've had two issues with my good vintage bridle leather belts and a few other leather goods. 1. Mold during storage 2. What to use for holsters, belts and vegetable tanned leather that I want to retain stiffness but prevent dry rot.
Is neats foot oil the proper treatment for care/conditioning of those leathers?
I'm a leatherworker (Tango_Alpha_Leather_Goods on Instagram if you want to see my work) and I find some of the responses here, umm, interesting. I use 100% pure neatsfoot oil on most of my goods, along with olive oil on occasion if I'm in the house and don't want to go out to th he shop to get the neatsfoot oil. I've used Obenauf's on my boots in the past, but it's some messy stuff. I may look into this Sno Seal stuff and see what it does and if it's any kind of miracle or not.
I posted back around the beginning of the year when I was having trouble finding any mink oil.
Finally found a shop doing custom leather stuff that had it.
From dabbling with holster making I learned that the leather is molded to shape wet (with a plug or dummy). Wax is then applied (impregnated into the leather) to help stiffen and retain shape The wax should be towards the parifin end of the spectrum for more stiffness.
I think neetsfoot is for things you want to be flexible. I was taught to use it on the hinge of a baseball glove.
Lanolin is ok for shoes....and case lube. The unique lube tin says you can use it on shoes too..
i use sno proof on my all leather footwear. it darkens the leather some but it makes it last a long time. i have a pair of rockies from 1996 that are still in good shape with a yearly coat.
I'm a leatherworker (Tango_Alpha_Leather_Goods on Instagram if you want to see my work) and I find some of the responses here, umm, interesting. I use 100% pure neatsfoot oil on most of my goods, along with olive oil on occasion if I'm in the house and don't want to go out to th he shop to get the neatsfoot oil. I've used Obenauf's on my boots in the past, but it's some messy stuff. I may look into this Sno Seal stuff and see what it does and if it's any kind of miracle or not.
No miracle. But some of us not living in AK find it usefull, and cheaper than the Obenauf's.
I've got boots over 15 years old that I still wear and other than some Kiwi brown polish on them when they were used for work, it's all they've had on them.
Obenauf's here also. Just treated two pairs of leather hunting boots last nite.
Ditto on the Obenaufs. Boots, belts , slings , knife sheaths and anything leather.
Obensufs - wax and liquid, I’ve had excellent waterproofing on my Kenetreks over five years of moderately hard use. Did a pair last weekend, and another pair to do this weekend.
I used Sno Seal growing up in the NW, but it didn’t seem seal as well for me - could have been user error.
A mix of sno-pruf and mink oil, then sun til it soaks in/. Has worked for two generations of LLBean Maine Hunting Shoe- probably the most effective quiet boot in the woods. Going since about 1912.
Truth. Killed a lot of deer wearing those wonderful boots sneaking in the forests of East Texas.
I posted back around the beginning of the year when I was having trouble finding any mink oil.
Finally found a shop doing custom leather stuff that had it.
From dabbling with holster making I learned that the leather is molded to shape wet (with a plug or dummy). Wax is then applied (impregnated into the leather) to help stiffen and retain shape The wax should be towards the parifin end of the spectrum for more stiffness.
I think neetsfoot is for things you want to be flexible. I was taught to use it on the hinge of a baseball glove.
Lanolin is ok for shoes....and case lube. The unique lube tin says you can use it on shoes too..
Dupont has Iso-paraffin in their chain lube. I have used it on boots after I mixed it with black Kiwi shoe polish. The carrier in the chain lube is a strong solvent but it very quickly evaporates away leaving the paraffin mixed with the Kiwi shoe polish. It's not perfect but the boots shine up nice and repel water.
I lost a jar of Obenaufs and found it a few years later. It smelled rotten like old spoiled cooking oil. I thought it was supposed to be something like beeswax.
Called them up and no. Told to open lid and heat in a microwave. If it still smelled like rotten veggie oil to chunk it. I did. Ill use beeswax.
My Dad was born in 1900. I remember he bought horse harnesses in 1943 and was told they were 10 years old when purchased. I remember about 1948 Dad told me we were going to oil the harnesses to keep them supple. He warmed and mixed beeswax and Neatsfoot oil. We spent about two days disassembling, applying by hand, flexing the leather, rubbing in that mixture and reassembling the harnesses. I later learned those harnesses were oiled about every year. By 1955 the horses were gone but those harnesses still hung in the barn the last time I was there about ten years ago. Though stiffened the leather was not cracking. That's a 77 year history. I have no way of knowing whether the Neatsfoot oil of then is the same as now but the beeswax sure is. That same concoction has been mixed and applied to our leather boots over the years. At age 80 I just buy Goretex lined or rubber boots.
Back when I was a kid and got my first pair of LL Bean Maine hunting boots (pre Gore-Ted) it was drilled into me that you had to treat your leather boots at least yearly, and twice when they were new. As I reached for the tin of mink oil this morning to treat my new Danners, I got to wondering if this was still a “thing”, or if it’s gone the way of the Dodo along with our fathers and grandfathers?
I started using Obenauf's when I bought my first pair of White's boots. White's recommended it over mink oil or other boot grease. Great stuff, I usually heat it up a little and apply it, let the boots sit overnight on boot driers, and I'm good to go.
Once dry I’ll hit the leathers with some Obendirfs that I have. I think I have tried that before too, with like results. I’ve used sno seal before with satisfaction, if applied often enough certainly more than 2x yearly.
But I think screw the goretex stuff next pair of boots - just go straight leather and beeswax - without the beer drinking I did last time I tried that......... the operation was successful but the patient died
My Dad was born in 1900. I remember he bought horse harnesses in 1943 and was told they were 10 years old when purchased. I remember about 1948 Dad told me we were going to oil the harnesses to keep them supple. He warmed and mixed beeswax and Neatsfoot oil. We spent about two days disassembling, applying by hand, flexing the leather, rubbing in that mixture and reassembling the harnesses. I later learned those harnesses were oiled about every year. By 1955 the horses were gone but those harnesses still hung in the barn the last time I was there about ten years ago. Though stiffened the leather was not cracking. That's a 77 year history. I have no way of knowing whether the Neatsfoot oil of then is the same as now but the beeswax sure is. That same concoction has been mixed and applied to our leather boots over the years. At age 80 I just buy Goretex lined or rubber boots.
Neatsfoot oil is synovial fluid from the hooves of cows. Same today as 1900...
No need to tell me, there are some petro distillates in it too.
What's in Obenauf's???..............................SDS says................trade secrets......................mmmmmnn?
Their website says beeswax and propolis and "natural leather conditioning oil", could that be????? Neatsfoot? Mineral oil? Vegetable oil?
Whatever "distillates" in SnoSeal are, they apparently evaporate/dissipate in the warm sun and just leave the wax.
I suppose I could just heat up that block of beeswax I've got out in the shop and try to apply it while still warm. But after having decent success with SnoSeal for 40+ years, I suppose I'll keep using it.
Suits my purposes. Of course, I don't live in AK. But it worked pretty good during the year I lived in SE. And the two years in NW PA, and the 8 years in Humboldt County (60" of rain there a year, not the 12" we have here).
I don't walk around in swamps or muskeg much, if I did I'd probably use some rubber boots and keep the leather ones at home.
The good thing about America................we can all choose how we wish.
Snoseal does not leave just beeswax in the leather. The finished boot is very different from simple beeswaxed leather. In truly wet conditions it fails on the first day...
I too, prefer pure neatsfoot oil on boots and saddles. But...I have been using Dr. Naylors udder balm as well for years , especially on my winter boots after a good oiling.
i use sno proof on my all leather footwear. it darkens the leather some but it makes it last a long time. i have a pair of rockies from 1996 that are still in good shape with a yearly coat.
If you still have a pair or Rockies from 1996, you've worn them twice.
Nikiwax isl like breathable rain gear Fine as long as it doesn’t get wet. Just did a caribou hunt with both. 3 days of rain
Boots had 3 apps Nikiwax. Soaked thru eve day 1. “Rain gear” laundered and retreated surface lasted another day. 3 caribou not bulletproof
So much for “partly cloudy”
The Nikwax has worked okay for me, but I will say that if it's really wet I go straight to rubber boots. I doubt any of the products mentioned on this thread will stand up to continuous soaking.
My Dad was born in 1900. I remember he bought horse harnesses in 1943 and was told they were 10 years old when purchased. I remember about 1948 Dad told me we were going to oil the harnesses to keep them supple. He warmed and mixed beeswax and Neatsfoot oil. We spent about two days disassembling, applying by hand, flexing the leather, rubbing in that mixture and reassembling the harnesses. I later learned those harnesses were oiled about every year. By 1955 the horses were gone but those harnesses still hung in the barn the last time I was there about ten years ago. Though stiffened the leather was not cracking. That's a 77 year history. I have no way of knowing whether the Neatsfoot oil of then is the same as now but the beeswax sure is. That same concoction has been mixed and applied to our leather boots over the years. At age 80 I just buy Goretex lined or rubber boots.
It would be cool to have those harnesses.
Grandpa didn't save his.
He wasn't sentimental I guess. He did however save his old coal miners hat.
Nikiwax isl like breathable rain gear Fine as long as it doesn’t get wet. Just did a caribou hunt with both. 3 days of rain
Boots had 3 apps Nikiwax. Soaked thru eve day 1. “Rain gear” laundered and retreated surface lasted another day. 3 caribou not bulletproof
So much for “partly cloudy”
The Nikwax has worked okay for me, but I will say that if it's really wet I go straight to rubber boots. I doubt any of the products mentioned on this thread will stand up to continuous soaking.
And you might as well just go to rubber boots because if you seal a leather boot with enough beeswax to make it truly waterproof it no longer breathes at all, just like a rubber boot. Of course if you need ankle support and waterproof and still want breatheability, that's where Gore-Tex comes in.
I lost a jar of Obenaufs and found it a few years later. It smelled rotten like old spoiled cooking oil. I thought it was supposed to be something like beeswax.
Called them up and no. Told to open lid and heat in a microwave. If it still smelled like rotten veggie oil to chunk it. I did. Ill use beeswax.
The same happened to me with an unopened can of mink oil. It was setting on the shelf for a couple of years. I think that any vegetable or animal based oil turns rancid/ oxidizes eventually without an antioxidant preservative. Dr. Wallach told me that he doesn't recommend any oils for frying or dressing because they start oxidizing from the hour the olives or seeds are picked and processed.
I just would like to know if the same rotten odor happens when a fresh coat is applied? I've never noticed the boots or belts smell that way.
I lost a jar of Obenaufs and found it a few years later. It smelled rotten like old spoiled cooking oil. I thought it was supposed to be something like beeswax.
Called them up and no. Told to open lid and heat in a microwave. If it still smelled like rotten veggie oil to chunk it. I did. Ill use beeswax.
The same happened to me with an unopened can of mink oil. It was setting on the shelf for a couple of years. I think that any vegetable or animal based oil turns rancid/ oxidizes eventually without an antioxidant preservative. Dr. Wallach told me that he doesn't recommend any oils for frying or dressing because they start oxidizing from the hour the olives or seeds are picked and processed.
I just would like to know if the same rotten odor happens when a fresh coat is applied? I've never noticed the boots or belts smell that way.
I lost a jar of Obenaufs and found it a few years later. It smelled rotten like old spoiled cooking oil. I thought it was supposed to be something like beeswax.
Called them up and no. Told to open lid and heat in a microwave. If it still smelled like rotten veggie oil to chunk it. I did. Ill use beeswax.
The same happened to me with an unopened can of mink oil. It was setting on the shelf for a couple of years. I think that any vegetable or animal based oil turns rancid/ oxidizes eventually without an antioxidant preservative. Dr. Wallach told me that he doesn't recommend any oils for frying or dressing because they start oxidizing from the hour the olives or seeds are picked and processed.
I just would like to know if the same rotten odor happens when a fresh coat is applied? I've never noticed the boots or belts smell that way.
I lost a jar of Obenaufs and found it a few years later. It smelled rotten like old spoiled cooking oil. I thought it was supposed to be something like beeswax.
Called them up and no. Told to open lid and heat in a microwave. If it still smelled like rotten veggie oil to chunk it. I did. Ill use beeswax.
The same happened to me with an unopened can of mink oil. It was setting on the shelf for a couple of years. I think that any vegetable or animal based oil turns rancid/ oxidizes eventually without an antioxidant preservative. Dr. Wallach told me that he doesn't recommend any oils for frying or dressing because they start oxidizing from the hour the olives or seeds are picked and processed.
I just would like to know if the same rotten odor happens when a fresh coat is applied? I've never noticed the boots or belts smell that way.
My Dad was born in 1900. I remember he bought horse harnesses in 1943 and was told they were 10 years old when purchased. I remember about 1948 Dad told me we were going to oil the harnesses to keep them supple. He warmed and mixed beeswax and Neatsfoot oil. We spent about two days disassembling, applying by hand, flexing the leather, rubbing in that mixture and reassembling the harnesses. I later learned those harnesses were oiled about every year. By 1955 the horses were gone but those harnesses still hung in the barn the last time I was there about ten years ago. Though stiffened the leather was not cracking. That's a 77 year history. I have no way of knowing whether the Neatsfoot oil of then is the same as now but the beeswax sure is. That same concoction has been mixed and applied to our leather boots over the years. At age 80 I just buy Goretex lined or rubber boots.
Neatsfoot oil is synovial fluid from the hooves of cows. Same today as 1900...
Sitka deer Thanks for that bit of information. I have wondered for years what it is. Amazing what a man can learn on the campfire. There's always someone who knows something that I don't. Fun. Appreciated. Jim
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/QgFURbsl.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/QM1Xc0KW/D0493239-EC31-4146-97-CB-7-AFF8396-D8-A5.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/W3xQmjjd/IMG-20200719-144435073-HDR.jpg)
