Does anyone have any experience with the jumper power boxes that are selling to start a car with a dead battery? I want to buy one to carry in my truck in case of a battery problem for me or other people.. I have been asked a couple times to help start a car that had a dead batter .. but I refuse todo that.. Many years ago I jumped a battery for a guy.. and when his car started . un be known to me at the time his regulator was bad.. and my regulator was burned up.. I dident relize there was a problem until I got home, and all the water was boiled out of my battery. destroying it. I ended up replacing the Battery, the regulator and the alternater.. for $350.00 that ended my helping people with a dead battery.. so what is a good jumper box to buy..??

Here ya go...

For what they cost.......under $100

It's foolish not to have one in each vehicle you own/drive

NOCO builds good stuff

Harbor Freight has what you need.

~49$ and use to 20% off coupon.

I’ve used mine many times.

I've got a NOCO GB70 in my wife's 4Runner and I keep a NOCO GB150 in my diesel truck. Have used both of them to jump several cars and they work great. Had to use the GB150 to jump my son's 7.3 powerstroke a couple of times and it did it perfectly. The GB70 says it will provide 40 jumps on one charge. They also have ports where you can plug in your phone to charge. That came in handy while camping.

I have jumped off cars dozens of times just using jumper cables, and I have a set of expensive cables. Never had a problem with the regulator such as you describe.

Hmm. You are putting ideas into my head.

How well do they do if unused/charged for some time?

I know if you try to jump a truck with a 2015 f-150.

It blew the relay in the box under the hood.

I have one of the jumpers that cost about 100.00 and it works.

It also has a flashlight and you can charge your phone if you need to.

It is about 6 in.longx4 wide and about 1in. thick.

I recently bough the Noco GB 150 for my Chevy diesel

charge mine every 6 months or so.....have 4 of 'em

I've had a few different brands, and after doing my research am now using the NOCO GB40.

I've got a NOCO GB40, $100 on Amazon or at Walmart right now, I've seen them on sale on Amazon for $65 several times in the last year. Bought mine when another forum I go to pointed the sale out. A dozen guys chimed in that they were good. GB40 is supposedly good to a 6L gasoline or 3L diesel. Bigger models sold for bigger engines and bigger money. The GB 40 is about the size of my iphone, but 3x as thick.

I have an Anti-gravity XP10 that will really crank over any gas engine but it fails with my Cummins 6.7. Most that I've looked at say they'll start a 6.0 diesel but all of the current crop of diesel pickups are larger than that.

Another vote for NOCO.

I just bought a NOCO GB40 on Amazon for $98. The stuff I learn on this forum...

I have a noco my buddy gave me for chrismas a few years ago. He had one for his Nissan Titan that was plagued with electrical issues. He had to use it often and it worked. I have never needed mine yet, but I keep mine in the truck charged occasionally.

Have several, NAPA, Snap-on, costco all seem to work good. Don't plan to start a vehicle if its -30 and battery is totally dead. Otherwise no problem. Wife was out with friends one tried to start her car and just clicked. She said I can get it started, all the ladies laughed said that little box won't work. Bingo started right up, all were going home to have their husbands get them one.

You are correct on all counts, but..... it's just the tip of the iceberg. Many more problems can be caused by jumping another vehicle. Put your jumper cable in the garage.

I like to see one of those things jump some of the chit that has been sitting in my yard for a year.

I can’t even get them mfers started with my big roll around nascar 40/200 amp booster

Besides blowing the regulator, what other problems can develop from old time jump starting?

I carry expensive jumper cables in both of my vehicles, I will jump off cars once or twice a year, every year. I never heard of these problems.

I should invest in one too.

I thought I was clever as hell by getting the longer jumper cables so I didn't have to care what side of the engine housed the battery. In fact, I could park behind most cars and the cables would reach. Live and learn...might start shopping today.

I just purchased a NOCO GB150 Genius 4000 Amp model. Note that there are also NOCO GB150 models that only have 3000 Amp capacity, evidently the word "Genius" in the model is the difference. I order the 4000 amp model from a well respected online company and what I got was the 3000 amp model. When I spoke to them they insisted I ordered a GB150 and a GB150 is what they sent me. After pictures of what I received and a copy of the description of the item ordered were sent and someone with common sense looked at it they allow me to return the wrong unit and get my money back, at least they said I would get my money back but I have not gotten credit yet.

I reorder from a different vendor because I had lost confidence in the original company I used.

Now a word on these units. You do not get the amperage out of these that they advertise, and that includes all the manufacturers. If a unit says 1000 amp that is what you would get under little load and at 90 degree temperature or so. A 1000 amp unit will be luck to give you 300 amps under heavy load in cold weather. For anything up to 3.5 L gas I would recommend a 2000 amp unit, anything over 3.5 L gas and up to 8.0 L gas and most likely diesel up to 8.0 L I would go with a 4000 amp unit. Most V8 truck motors have 600 to 800 amp cold cranking batteries for a reason.

My 800 amp unit I have had for a few years would only do my ATV's well.

I jump started one of our accountant’s cars with county truck once, 500 lb fatfouck fleet mgr came around on his ‘gator’ and got all unglued on me. Said batteries would blow up and all types of intergalactic phenomena would occur

I told him he was full of shît

Me and the GM had a meeting next morn about it, we both laughed.

Those 800 CCA batteries don't last as long on the average as the 600 to 700 ones. To get the extra amps, they make the plates thinner so they can get more in the case. The thin plates crack easier and the batteries fail. Sometimes bigger isn't better.
Now, back to the jump starters.....

Most new vehicles employ a power distribution fuse array on the positive terminal and total current sensor on the negative terminal. Both on these sensors connect directly into the ECM. Under perfect condition you should have no problems. Touch a fuse or the wrong size of the negative current sensor and you will have less than perfect conditions.

I have been studying up on this problem. Damn, all kinds of bad things can happen with a jump start, car to car.

There you go, I was going to post the same video. He's actually got another one from last year testing some different ones.

I have the BEat It model D-11 (800 AH peak current) and have used it twice to jump start a VW Diesel Golf. Works flawlessly.

I have one of those GooLoo jumpers. I think I bought it on Amazon a year or two back. It holds a charge well and has started everything I've put it on just like a new, hot battery. After a jump, it still shows nearly a full charge. I would buy another one.

^^This^^

Just give it time , you will,,

I have a DB Power lithium battery pack (look on Amazon). It has started a 6.0 Chevy, a 5.9 Dodge gasser, a 5.3 Chevy, and plenty of riding lawn mowers. Unless you’re starting a high compression diesel, you don’t need a big battery pack.

https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-1800...&hvtargid=pla-473964568314&psc=1



Main thing with the small lithium packs is to only crank for 3-5 seconds, then let them cool for several minutes before trying to crank again.

Thanks folks. I have a hell of a time coming up with Christmas gift ideas.

Two sons in law and one son are now covered for Christmas.

Yep. The old huge ones had nicad’s or AGM’s. All the new little ones have lithium’s, and ignoring them for 6 months is no big deal. Probably go 12 months and still be fine.

For $70-$100, and fit in glove box or under seat, they are cheap insurance.

Never heard this problem either.

Perhaps a mechanic here can explain how a bad regulstornon the jumped vehicle can damage the regulator on the jumping vehicle.

This. We use em to jump trucks and equipment.

Me too, but once a short in the other vehicle immediately drained my battery, then I had to get a jump. No permanent damage tho.

I have a couple - one is booster/tire inflator/light.About 1 cubic foot and 15 lbs or more.

The other is a XP 100 or some such. It also has a light, WILL start my Cummins, also can charge cell phones,and iPad. It is about 1.5 inch thick, 10 inches long, 5 wide.Maybe 2-3 lbs.

I bought it when I was in the Arctic and bought my wife a big AC1100 turbo snowmachine, which does not come with a pull start... and one probably could not start that thing with a pull start if it did. I carried it in the inside pocket of my parka to keep it warm and working best. Never needed it.

$150 IIRC.

Looking in to one of these now.

Friends gifted my daughter one of these in Fairbanks. Known colloquially as “boyfriend in a box”.

I went through this last summer.

A F250 diesel needs a unit with at least 3,000 amps.

I tried a 2,000 amp unit and it was just a bit too weak.

Read the specs on the box closely before buying.

The one I have now is 3-4 years old. It’s more than paid for itself. Even if I never jumpstarted a truck, just having it to occasionally jump the lawn tractor, and get my work done, rather than having to wait to charge up its’ battery or drag cables over to it, has been worth the price.

They’re small enough that EVERYONE should have one if they’re on a utv/atv, miles off in the woods.

I bought the big one from harbor freight.. it has the air compressor . I just thought it would be neat to inflate my tire if it went flat... they had all kinds.. i may buy some of the small ones for presents. to give to people that may be calling me ..do they sell one with a gas can HARHAR...my oldest son tries to see how far he can go on a empty tank... But he is doing better now...that he is past 50 ..

I have been studying up on this today. Numerous web sites say, you probably are OK with conventional car to car jumping, if:

1. Cut off the engine of the good vehicle.
2. Connect the hot cable to the hot post on dead battery. Then connect it to the hot post on good car.
3. Connect the negative cable to the good battery post.
4. Connect the negative cable to the engine area of the non functional car. Not to the negative terminal, but to a metal part that is not painted.

Then crank up the good car. Then, to really play it safe, run the car for five minutes. This should charge the dead battery. Disconnect and fire up the once-dead car.

I have been pretty much doing it this way as I have jumped post 2000 model cars on at least a dozen occasions and never caused any damage. I did not wait five minutes to charge the battery, I just cranked up the good car and started the kaput car right up. Also I have not connected to a non painted metal part, I connect right to the negative post of the dead battery.

Maybe I have been lucky.

As I said above, once I began reading this thread this morning, I bought a charger from Amazon for 98 bucks.

I am still a Boy Scout at heart. Be Prepared.

I have had a microstart xp-3 for quite a few years. Wont start a big diesel but typical automotive gassers no problem. USB port comes in handy also for cell phones. Wife keeps it in her truck.

Been thinking about picking up another micro jump box for my car.

I have the commercial DSR with the 12v24v selector. It's cranked a duramax and a 2745 Massey diesel in the dead of winter. Ive had good luck out of it.

I have a DB that was a gift from my kid. I charge before every trip but it has never had less than 75% of its' charge. It stays in the 4 Runner and has worked from -8* F to +118* F.. I have never needed it for our car but have jumped a few other folk's rides. It is a nice feeling to know that you have it if needed.


mike r

Most connect to the bad battery negative post since there is damn little unpainted under the hood.

Might be a worthwhile preemptive measure to bolt a cable pigtail to an easily accessed point in engine compartment.

I just bought a couple of these and they may have enough juice for your needs. They don't look like much compared to older lead acid tech, but many swear by them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H58NP77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep mine on a trickle charge.If you don`t charge for a while they will cannot be charged with enough volts to start a car.

Trickle charging is not good for lithiums.

I hear ya Chuck.
Yeah, VA hunter, enlighten me...

Jumper packs/jumper boxes/jumping in general:
Why do you need to do any of the above?
A battery that needs jumped really needs charged. To test if it will charge, blow up or be worth a damn, use a hydrometer. EZ Red makes a perfectly good one for a novice (flooded/wet battery). More than 25 points variance from any cell is a dead cell/unequalized battery; aint no saving it.
(If there is solid/slush present, dont jump! The chemical process in charging/jumping needs the liquid/elecrolyte; a solid makes the energy introduced go elsewhere!)
Throwing it on a charger (or jumping it) is a waste of time and a possible kaboom if cells are not equal specific gravity.
If all cells are level, but low (under 1175), jump, go home and CHARGE the battery. 2 amps for 24 hours or 36 wont hurt anything if the battery is low. No, jumping it and drivjng it isnt going to fix anything. You will have to jump it again and when you get it tested with a digital tester at any shop or dealership, it will give a printout of "replace", even if there is nothing wrong with the battery.. .
If you have an AGM battery and it has been "tested", especially with a digital tester/printout analysis, look at both voltage and CCA figures.
If it says, for example 300 CCA, the battery voltage is 12.54 and the battery was tested at 700 CCA, the printout will tell you the battery needs replaced, but it really needs charged.
Batteries out of everyday driven cars/alternator charging will always be at or above 13 volts, in Fords over 14. Half the CCA at "12 volts" in a car driven at least once a week is a red flag for discharge, not replacement.
If its a wet battery, test with a hydrometer. If all cells are even and low (under 1250 or lower), its discharged. A battery test that doesnt test the chemical isnt a battery test, period.

Jump packs:

Most are SLA/AGM and will run 200-300 CCA. Charge every 6 months stationary or top off after use. Do not leave constantly plugged in.
Lithium jump packs need charged 6-8 months between actual use and their output CCA wise is about the same, but with fewer full output jumps. Charge the same. Do not leave plugged in.

Lemme guess, you have two 850 CCA *or higher group 65s) and your jumping it too?

Your problem is at least one battery is totally cooked and your solution is more perceived amps. The resistence for one dog schidt battery is what your fighting.

Two things: ditch the high CCA batteries. Go 750 or 650, or spend more money on a warranty you pay for up front for a system that cooks the [bleep] out of stuff that you dont need.
The ratings on jump packs are not regulated, dont mean squat and arent a solution to your problem...

But Im sure if someone put 5000 amps on a jump pack or 1500 CCA on your group 65s you'd still find the need for a 6000amps/ 2000 CCA to "fix" the pre-engineered problem....

Good on you.

Any battery charging up in five minutes, regardless of composition, method or voodoo is bullshit, even if the goverment, the internet and the Bible says so.

Jesus.....

My portable battery pack is good for about 30 jumps. Had a battery go bad on my bear hunt in Sept while truck was at end of a trail. Jumped it and got out with no issues. Had to jump it at camp and then next morning to get to town to buy a new battery.

Just hunted Kansas and had to different young families on Thanksgiving trips need jumps parked at gas stations. No big deal with the battery jumper. Blue lights still indicate about 75% charge remaining. It'll get charged when it goes below 50% is my plan.

Needing to buy 2 for my kids.

For those that have what the oldest thats still working.Do the have a date code on them don't want to buy one thats been setting in the store for 5 years.

Purchased 1 from Napa, a 400 something or another. It’s probably not big enough to jumpstart a semi, but works great on cars, 4 wheelers and such.

my final thoughts......

NOCO or any of them...under $100

Are better than the one you don't have in your car---truck---UTV

Just like the primer shortage......be prepared

I do have one pointer about battery maintenance. Don't check fluid level with a cigarette lighter.
When I was a paramedic I worked 3 cases where guys wanted to check the fluid level. The removed the little caps and they got their face right down next to the battery, so they could see it well. They lit up the Bic and the battery exploded.

When I got there, the guy is jumping around and screaming, his face is covered with battery acid.
You would think it would cause blindness but not necessarily so. You have to "irrigate" the eyes. These three calls were all at houses, I would grab the guy and pull/drag him into the bathroom, turn on the shower, and, fully dressed I got into the shower with him and sprayed shower water into his eyes. I held his head and held his eyes open.

Did that for about 15 minutes, then hauled ass to the hospital, all three of those guys had their vision saved.

^^^^^^^^^^^

now that's scarey for sure

The battery cases have a designed weak spot in the corner around the post to aid pressure release during an explosion. The idea is to have the post area blow off while retained to the cable.

Many are rated only up to a 4L engine. I carry one any time I leave the blacktop.

I just ordered one of these for $67.65 with free shipping and no sales tax:

https://www.audew.com/Audew-2000A-P...Power-Display-p-100058.html?rmmds=search

Thanks aalf, I just ordered a couple. Christmas is coming

These were reasonable...ordered a few.

Lemsir

I’ve got a NORCO in the wife’s car and my truck. No complaints works well and holds a charge for months.

I got the GB40 off of Amazon for a hundred bucks. Arrived in two days.
This thing is tiny! I have been watching the reviews on youtube, very impressive. A guy was up in the snow up north, left the headlights on all night on purpose to drain the battery, plus he left the GB40 out in the car all night so it was also cold. It was 19 degrees outside.

He cranked that vehicle right up, switched it off and cranked it again. Must have cranked it 20 times. Impressive.

It is so small it will be easy to carry it around in the cab of my pickup.

Very easy to charge and very easy to use. You don't worry about finding an engine part that is unpainted you hook it right to the battery posts.
Very strong clamps with the GB40. If you should hook it up backwards, it won't blow anything up it will just refuse to work and a warning light will come on.
In other words, moron proof.

One aspect is funny. I figured it had a cord that you plug into a wall outlet. No.
You charge it on your cell phone charger. I charged mine at home off the cell phone charger but you can also charge it from the cigarette lighter in your vehicle.
It took me 8 hours to get a full charge.