Deprime separately from sizing. Take the expander out of your FL size die and just use a universal deprimer first. The expander stretches the case and ruins the cocentricity.
But you can do it if your necks needing rerounding. Just a little tip from the great JB.
Deprime separately from sizing. Take the expander out of your FL size die and just use a universal deprimer first. The expander stretches the case and ruins the cocentricity.
But you can do it if your necks needing rerounding. Just a little tip from the great JB.
I also learned this here and have noticed a big improvement.
make a label from half an index card, write with a sharpie in big bold letters the powder your are using, and place that in the powder hopper in plain sight of the user. Remove the jars of powder from the workbench. That way, if you get interrupted, and I do, you know exactly what powder you are using.
make a label from half an index card, write with a sharpie in big bold letters the powder your are using, and place that in the powder hopper in plain sight of the user. Remove the jars of powder from the workbench. That way, if you get interrupted, and I do, you know exactly what powder you are using.
I have a roll of stickers and a sharpie on my powder measure, great idea !
I just started using the Hornady headspace comparater. I found out I was way over working my brass and leaving too much space inside of the barrel chamber that should of been filled with the case.
Crap, I'm too busy hunting, shooting, fishing, posting to have the time.
I had a shooting store expert try to show me once how to improve my ammo for my 270 Wby in price, velocity, and accuracy.
Then he tried to show me twice, then thrice. Then he finally said the only thing he could show me was how to save a few dimes. He couldnt match the velocity or accuracy.
Best tip was from the man that taught me to reload.
Always write everything down in a ledger. EVERYTHING. Bullets, powder, lot numbers, date, number of rounds loaded, firearm that you're loading for, scales used, dies etc. etc. etc.
I'll add. WRITE IT DOWN IN A NOTEBOOK OR A LEDGER. Even if it's in your computer or on a USB drive. Notebooks don't short out or crash or get stolen and end up in the pawnshop.
How to remove a stuck case. I stuck the first one I tried to resize. The little man that owned the shop where my father bought my Lyman starter showed me how to do it. Of course I had to buy the tool but I bought all my loading supplies from him for decades. Every now and then he’d stick something extra in my sack after I had paid for my components.
Get a decent load for a rifle or handgun and call it good. Load a big batch and move on to another caliber. Don’t be dicking around with hunting rifle accuracy...if you like to play (I do) figure out how to make loads for obsolete stuff.
" If you want an accurate load. Don't write it down. You'll shoot in the ones and spend your life trying to figure out what you did, but will never repeat it".
The best powder to use for rifle cartridges is the one that most nearly fills the case.
When I first started reloading for my 270 Win I used the Jack O'Connor load of 60 grains of H4831, and it will almost fill a case. Never having done that before, I consulted my neighbor, a long time reloader, and he said that I'd blow my rifle up if I did that. He used a mild load of 4064 in the 270, one that did not come close to filling up a case, and was unfamiliar with H4831. I gave it some thought, and figured O'Connor knew more about the 270 than my neighbor did, and I've used a case full of H4831 ever since.
Learned by guess and by golly. Paid attention to the Lyman manual. Didn’t know anyone to get tips from. The inna net was still 30 years in the future for me. Lot of the tips posted here I learned along the way and they are mostly fundamental methodology for me.
Second: After purchasing JB’s DVD on Precision Reloading I realized it was time to quit fretting over prices & invest in some better tools. Thus, Redding Type S dies, Wilson Machine Arbor Dies & an arbor press have revolutionized my entire loading program. I kissed run-out goodbye. I now develop loads at the range & have never been more satisfied by doing so.
I started reloading at about 12 years of age. Local gunsmith gave lessons to my Dad and I. He pounded into our heads to never reload for anyone else and to never shoot anyone else's reloads. I have stuck with that for almost 70 years , never varied even once, still seems like good advice to me.
I had a custom rubber stamp made for labels to go on reload boxes and developed a target with lines for loading data. Fill it in at the range, once home it gets three ring punched and goes in caliber specific ring binders. Best way to record load data and see the results on targets.
Pull the decapper pin on your resizing die when resizing, then reinstall and size neck on down stroke instead of up.
For some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain further?
What he means is remove the expander ball for the sizing operation, then install and push the sized neck over the expander ball. Pushing instead of pulling over the ball can reduce runout but it is an extra step.
If you want a tip on how to avoid distractions....
My ex entered the loading lab and gifted me with three buckets of rant and rave. A few days later at the range she was agitated once more due to some of her ammo having the primers upside down. She never bothered me at the bench after that.
Learned by guess and by golly. Paid attention to the Lyman manual. Didn’t know anyone to get tips from. The inna net was still 30 years in the future for me. Lot of the tips posted here I learned along the way and they are mostly fundamental methodology for me.
The small mistakes I made learning from books and doing myself don't come close to some of the B/S I've seen on the internet.
Pull the decapper pin on your resizing die when resizing, then reinstall and size neck on down stroke instead of up.
For some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain further?
What he means is remove the expander ball for the sizing operation, then install and push the sized neck over the expander ball. Pushing instead of pulling over the ball can reduce runout but it is an extra step.
Thank you, you explained it the way I should have.
Pull the decapper pin on your resizing die when resizing, then reinstall and size neck on down stroke instead of up.
For some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain further?
What he means is remove the expander ball for the sizing operation, then install and push the sized neck over the expander ball. Pushing instead of pulling over the ball can reduce runout but it is an extra step.
Some graphite on case necks makes things run a lot smoother
Pull the decapper pin on your resizing die when resizing, then reinstall and size neck on down stroke instead of up.
For some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain further?
What he means is remove the expander ball for the sizing operation, then install and push the sized neck over the expander ball. Pushing instead of pulling over the ball can reduce runout but it is an extra step.
Thank you, you explained it the way I should have.
I feel like I shouldn't have to ask, being a reloader for 25+ years, but how does doing this in 2 steps with the same die rather than in one step with said die, end up in improved ammo? Am I missing something? 🤔
Well, except for hollow-base wadcutters loaded backwards for self-defense. (Of course, they didn't have a pointy end to start with, so I guess that is moot.)
Pull the decapper pin on your resizing die when resizing, then reinstall and size neck on down stroke instead of up.
For some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain further?
What he means is remove the expander ball for the sizing operation, then install and push the sized neck over the expander ball. Pushing instead of pulling over the ball can reduce runout but it is an extra step.
Thank you, you explained it the way I should have.
I feel like I shouldn't have to ask, being a reloader for 25+ years, but how does doing this in 2 steps with the same die rather than in one step with said die, end up in improved ammo? Am I missing something? 🤔
I too could use additional explanation. Does the metal sizing of the case body work against that of the neck if done in one step? In either case, the expander ball has to go both in, and out, and would size on the in stroke, then maybe modify this on the outstroke in one-step, but not on 2 step?
Jimy: I agree with you on the wonderfulness of Imperial Sizing Wax (I think its called Redding Sizing Wax now?). But the MOST "sage advice" I ever got was from my reloading and Varminting friend Steve, nearly 50 years ago when he said (and would often repeat) these words - "reloading causes questions"! Hold into the wind VarmintGuy
Pull the decapper pin on your resizing die when resizing, then reinstall and size neck on down stroke instead of up.
For some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain further?
What he means is remove the expander ball for the sizing operation, then install and push the sized neck over the expander ball. Pushing instead of pulling over the ball can reduce runout but it is an extra step.
Thank you, you explained it the way I should have.
I feel like I shouldn't have to ask, being a reloader for 25+ years, but how does doing this in 2 steps with the same die rather than in one step with said die, end up in improved ammo? Am I missing something? 🤔
I too could use additional explanation. Does the metal sizing of the case body work against that of the neck if done in one step? In either case, the expander ball has to go both in, and out, and would size on the in stroke, then maybe modify this on the outstroke in one-step, but not on 2 step?
Keeping accurate records. I tell people just getting into reloading to write everything down in a ledger. Caliber, bullet info, powder, primer, case info, number of rounds, dies used, reasons for that load, date, year, intended gun, etc. I also add results , good or bad, after I've had a chance to try the load. Each load is assigned a matching number and info sticker on the box. My first reload was lot # 38-1 shooting 125gr jsp with 4.4 gr of bull's-eye 5/10/1972.
I was shortening 357 mag brass for super high pressure tests in 38 special chambers. The late gunsmith and experimenter Randy Ketchem asked me, "Why? 38 Special brass is plenty strong." I realized immediately that the 357 mag brass longer case web is superfluous.
Nearly full case of powder...with one that flows well....check the weight.....then throw, throw, throw.....
Yesterday, 308W with 748....desired weight was 50.5grains....Checked charges went from spot on to +/- 0.2grains on the high and low end....Wasted time even checking the ones I did....
Pull the decapper pin on your resizing die when resizing, then reinstall and size neck on down stroke instead of up.
For some reason I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain further?
What he means is remove the expander ball for the sizing operation, then install and push the sized neck over the expander ball. Pushing instead of pulling over the ball can reduce runout but it is an extra step.
Thank you, you explained it the way I should have.
I feel like I shouldn't have to ask, being a reloader for 25+ years, but how does doing this in 2 steps with the same die rather than in one step with said die, end up in improved ammo? Am I missing something? 🤔
Properly executed in two steps the case is sized on the up stroke and the neck expanded in same fashion. Do not use a full stroke with the expander. Just enough to pass through then withdraw. Doing so minimizes case distortion the asymmetric forces associated with the shell holder geometry cause.
Keeping accurate records. I tell people just getting into reloading to write everything down in a ledger. Caliber, bullet info, powder, primer, case info, number of rounds, dies used, reasons for that load, date, year, intended gun, etc. I also add results , good or bad, after I've had a chance to try the load. Each load is assigned a matching number and info sticker on the box. My first reload was lot # 38-1 shooting 125gr jsp with 4.4 gr of bull's-eye 5/10/1972.
Gives me something to work with. For example, I've got three rifles chambered in 44 mag. Each one seems works better with something a little different. Sometimes the loads are just for a different purposes, plinking vs hunting loads. Between revolver and rifle load I've got 15-20 different 44 mag loads on the shelves. Working up an accuracy load the book goes with me to the range so I know what I'm shooting. Had to move my gun shop recently, found stuff I reloaded 30 years ago. I'm in the process of shooting up some of the old stuff now just to clean up my inventory, dug out my old books to see what I was shooting.
Gives me something to work with. For example, I've got three rifles chambered in 44 mag. Each one seems works better with something a little different. Sometimes the loads are just for a different purposes, plinking vs hunting loads. Between revolver and rifle load I've got 15-20 different 44 mag loads on the shelves. Working up an accuracy load the book goes with me to the range so I know what I'm shooting. Had to move my gun shop recently, found stuff I reloaded 30 years ago. I'm in the process of shooting up some of the old stuff now just to clean up my inventory, dug out my old books to see what I was shooting.
Properly executed in two steps the case is sized on the up stroke and the neck expanded in same fashion. Do not use a full stroke with the expander. Just enough to pass through then withdraw. Doing so minimizes case distortion the asymmetric forces associated with the shell holder geometry cause.
I'm sure that works fine. But I've found that lubing the inside of the neck of a case greatly reduces the drag as it's pulled back over the expander. I usually scratch the case against the lube pad every 5 or 6 cases to scoop a little dab of case lube into the neck. One application of lube to the inside of the case neck will deposit enough lube on the expander to keep it slick for 5 or 6 cases and prevents the case from stretching as much as it's pulled over the expander.
Agreed, very little enjoyment in record keeping itself, however with an ultimate goal of improving accuracy and effectiveness, I consider this information a vital part of the reloading process.
Never have more than one powder container open on the bench at a time.
This one has come up a bunch of times. Nother vote.
I once many years ago added some 3031 to a powder hopper with an inch of 2400 in it and proceeded to load a couple dozen rounds of .30-30. Couldn't figure out why they were so loud and hitting so high on the target!
Case length plugs that go in a shortened brass and get bolted in the action, remove case and Measure for the max case length in your rifle. Once you know your rifles max case length, just make a note of it and it will minimize your need to trim cases. My rifles (all but 1) have max case lengths 15-30 thousandths ove book spec max.
Just reorganized the loading room the last couple days, adding shelves above and below the bench to consolidate everything within reach. It really feels better. I like having a place for everything. Some of the loading benches I've seen set up in someones barn or whatever would drive me nuts. Here's the finished product. Finished ammo goes elsewhere, this is loading supplies only.
Just reorganized the loading room the last couple days, adding shelves above and below the bench to consolidate everything within reach. It really feels better. I like having a place for everything. Some of the loading benches I've seen set up in someones barn or whatever would drive me nuts. Here's the finished product. Finished ammo goes elsewhere, this is loading supplies only.
Give me a few minutes and all that neatness will be undone. I like my pile of stuff in the barn. This pic is old, I think maybe its worse now.
Get a Lyman reloading manual and go from there. It is the most complete reloading manual. Different bullets, different powders shown for each caliber. Front of book tells you how to do things and get started.
I just found this video looking for something else, and thought of this thread. It is how I have removed the military primer crimp for years, Except I have the drill mounted horizontal, the cutting tool off the bench and over an elevated bucket to catch the brass trimmings. Also, I now use a Hornady primer pocket reamer, but the setup is the same
Properly executed in two steps the case is sized on the up stroke and the neck expanded in same fashion. Do not use a full stroke with the expander. Just enough to pass through then withdraw. Doing so minimizes case distortion the asymmetric forces associated with the shell holder geometry cause.
I'm sure that works fine. But I've found that lubing the inside of the neck of a case greatly reduces the drag as it's pulled back over the expander. I usually scratch the case against the lube pad every 5 or 6 cases to scoop a little dab of case lube into the neck. One application of lube to the inside of the case neck will deposit enough lube on the expander to keep it slick for 5 or 6 cases and prevents the case from stretching as much as it's pulled over the expander.
All well and good B but removing the expander ball on resizing the case eliminates the possibility of canting the neck (the bullets steering wheel) as on the way out (as normal operation one pass sizing ), very possible to do as the press is at the top of its stroke and press tolerance could cause a canted neck. By just expanding in a separate operation the expander ball sizes on the down stroke and only needs to just pass through the neck . A dial indicated run out gauge lets you know if your equipment needs this or not. This and consistent neck thickness can make a significant difference .
If you are scratching the mouth of a few cases across the pad to get lube on the expander ball is the lube getting on the ball? the ball will not touch the case on entry but will on exit in normal one step sizing and may not get on the top (leading edge ) of the ball at all.
wow.42 years.lets say there are a few.from my uncle to some of the top benchrest shooters.all i know is it is relaxing and when shooting with top components in quality builds extremely rewarding with accuracy.
Reloading doesn't save you any money. You spend way more on ammo than people who don't reload but you shoot a lot more. Ann Armstrong, the older lady that ran the Reloading Center in Burley told me that when I was 11 and bought my Lee load all shot shell loader from her.
She was right I have tens of thousands of dollars in reloading equipment and supplies. My brother that doesn't load probably spends $200/year on ammo. He might buy a box or two of rifle ammo, a brick of 22, and a case of steel shot because he duck hunts a lot. His 2 boxes of rifle ammo might last him 3 years. He shoots a few before the hunt to make sure he's on and maybe 1 or 2 rounds hunting. I should clarify that $200 was at the old prices.
Good thread. Several good tips. I might have to buy a handful of those Sinclair Chamber Length Gauges.
I started reloading (in the '70's) when most of us relied on pressure indicators like flattened primers and ejector marks on the case head. It scares me to think of some of the loads I used to shoot in my 308 and 25-06 that were wayyyy too hot. The chronograph is probably the best pressure indicator available to the majority of us. I like primer pockets to remain tight after multiple loadings.
Good thread. Several good tips. I might have to buy a handful of those Sinclair Chamber Length Gauges.
I started reloading (in the '70's) when most of us relied on pressure indicators like flattened primers and ejector marks on the case head. It scares me to think of some of the loads I used to shoot in my 308 and 25-06 that were wayyyy too hot. The chronograph is probably the best pressure indicator available to the majority of us. I like primer pockets to remain tight after multiple loadings.
Yes, finding the chamber length can save a lot of time and cost. I'll bet most folks trimming .223 for their own rifles would never need to trim at all.
Your reloading bench can't have enough light. Start loading at the low end of the recipe, work your way up - shoot the same way and pay attention to your firearm before moving up the power scale.
Throw that little 3 piece ring with the o-ring thing away that comes with an impact bullet puller. Use a shell holder instead, works great everytime.
Better yet throw the whole thing away and use your press. Wiring plier or collet puller does a better job. I’ve used an impact puller enough to know there is a better way.
Throw that little 3 piece ring with the o-ring thing away that comes with an impact bullet puller. Use a shell holder instead, works great everytime.
Better yet throw the whole thing away and use your press. Wiring plier or collet puller does a better job. I’ve used an impact puller enough to know there is a better way.
Some pistol bullets are hard to get a hold of with collet pullers. But yes if possible I use one instead of the whacker.
Read at least 5 reloading manuals then ask someone with a bunch of experience to do some loads with you and label and date everything you do because you will forget no matter what you tell yourself. Only do the reloading when you are calm and willing to shut out distractions and relax in your own world. Go forth and shoot accurate ammo.
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