Thinking of purchasing this (or a similar year) Kubota tractor for our humble ranch: 2020 KUBOTA L2501HST

Deets for use: 30+ acres with a dozen cows, no crazy abuse just lifting cows and elk for butchering/loading, lifting 1000# round bales, cleaning up rotted stumps--pulling out fallen trees, moving snow and gravel piles....typical small farm use.
I would like to use the PTO for post hole digging/fence work.

Thoughts / opinions?

I'd rather avoid team green, I like JD & currently own a JD 345 garden tractor/mower, but initial purchase price & parts prices turn me off.

thinking i would move up into the mid 30 to 40 horsepower tractor

I agree, for those stated uses you are going to want a heavier rig and more than 25 hp. 3301 or 3901 would be the smallest I would consider.

Mark in GA.

those little tractors can do a lot for their size, but if and when you pick up that much weight with the front end, you will quickly figure out that you better have some implement weight on the back because she'll get real light back there real quick.I think the Kubota's are good tractor for the money.

I started with a little Kubota like that and also found it to ride rough. I upgraded to a larger Green machine and it rides mucho better

I wouldn't consider below 70HP for what you want and even then you will be lacking for some of your tasks

The lift capacity would be my main concern. Tractordata.com lists the fel as 1131 at the pins to the full lift height of 94 inches. When you lift a bale the center of mass will be half the width of the bale from the pins so you're marginal at best if you need to lift a half ton bale. Lifting a 1500 lb. Steer is going to be a non starter. If you don't need to lift the bales more than a few inches the 3 point hitch should get it done.
I don't think that going up a size within the kubota line will get you much as it shares the chassis and engine. Going bigger will get you the emissions crap. Should do fine on the post hole digger.

That's a great little tractor. BUT, not for your lifting chores. Get a 50HP large frame tractor.

Bucktail, you are reading my mind...

I think the above suggestions are great and i'll look to a 30hp minimum, but that loader max is an issue. Some of our cows are chunks..
Is that 1131# based on rear ballast concerns or just hydraulic limits? Probably a question for a Kubota guy, but some may know.

I have the Kubota 7510 . it is a 21 horse and the front end loader is good for 880 lbs. There are many times I know I was not lifting 880 lbs and it lifted the back tires off the ground. Sure, it can lift it about 6" or so but after that the tractor was surely stressed. I would not want to lift a bail very high. I'm sure the 25 horse has a higher lifting abilities, perhaps over 1,000 lbs but I think you should go bigger , like maybe 1,500 lbs lift.

I must say though, I sure like that tractor. It has been no problem at all with 1,0?? hours on it. I also bought a little too small , and cause if that , it gets beat up and I am hard on it. It cuts grass fine, and rototills fine , but plowing snow is rough on it. I can do it, but can tell , a little bigger would have been nice.

Look at Mahindra, they out lift any other tractor in that class by a good margin and if you go up in HP you won’t be dealing with the DPF bs so no regen etc....

I just bought a 1626 yesterday

You can change to larger lift cylinders to get more lift, you can also modify the relief valves to get more lift.

The ratings are usually at the pins. The further out you go the less you can lift.

That tractor is the SAME SIZE as their 33hp. It’s just detuned to get around emissions regs. Not saying it’s “big enough”, just saying it’s “just as big” as a 33hp.

If you’re gonna be grubbing trees, and lifting round bales, you might want more capacity (40-50hp).

No, you don’t need a 70 hp, $50k plus, tractor for 30 acres.

So the L2501 uses the same loader as the L3301. Tractordata.com shows the same specs for both tractors except that it lists breakout forces for the L3301. I don't think I'd go past the rated limits on a regular basis even if you could. I don't think that going up to 30 hp gets you much at least not staying with Kubota.

Yanmar builds compact tractors which are labeled John Deere.

When it comes to compacts, do not over look team blue. The New Hollands are highly considered by those who own them.

Also, Massey Ferguson/Agco/Fiat makes great tractors. All are worth consideration.

Your situation is similar to my own. I have twenty acres of irrigated ground in pasture grass and alfalfa hay with a few cows and horses. I cared for it with a 25 hp tractor for thirty years.

When my Son in Law purchased a couple of old tractors and left at the property, I soon wondered how I had gotten along without them.

1: a mid seventies International 70 hp Hydrostat drive with a large capacity loader capable of lifting well over a ton.
2: a late sixties John Deere 96 hp 4020.

They each cost about $7000. And gave many advantages not available to a compact tractor. Now I could pull a two bottom plow or a decent capacity disc. Now I could pull a baler and bale my own hay at the moment it was ready to be baled instead of waiting for a custom operator to show up.

I soon found myself buying a heavy 8 foot hydraulic adjustable terracing blade to clear snow from the mile of drive way. I bought an eight foot Road Boss grader to smooth all of that dirt and gravel road during the spring and summer.

None of this could nave been done with a compact or "Boomer" tractor.

There are a lot of used 55 hp to 75 hp tractors out there which will be much more affordable than a new compact. Red, or green, or blue, or orange........the color is of little importance, except perhaps which one has dealer parts closer to home.

And even that has become of little importance with web based tractor parts dealers across the nation.

The comments to go a bit bigger are spot on.

I have a JD 40hp 4044m and still get into situations where it's a bit challenged. I ballasted the rear tires with beet juice and have not needed chains. I max the lift cap frequently moving rocks, pulling/moving stumps. Nothing wrong with your brand choice, just make sure there's a good dealer around.

I purchased an Kubota MX5800 a couple years ago for a 36 acre plot of wilderness
I am so happy that I went that size over the smaller ones.
The MX5800 has out performed what I thought it would do.
Go as big as you can afford I do not think that you will regret going that way.
Check out TractorByNet.com it has a GREAT Forum to learn from others.
Good Luck with what you choose.

i'd go with something more traditional

L4060 is the perfect size for your application. I have one of them at one of my farms and it is a perfect size small utility tractor. HST is the way to go, handy and manueverable.

I bought a Massey Ferguson 1526 a few years ago. It's essentially a 24 HP, 3 cylinder diesel. It does OK for my needs, but IMO, is seriously lacking pushing/pulling power unless in the lowest of its 3 range options.

Wish I'd gone bigger....

Thanks for the insights here, fellas. Plenty to work with and think on.

Right now I'm leaning towards the Kubota L4060 hydro with the La805 loader. Specs show 40hp. and a 104" lift height / 1720# capacity at pivot pin.
Should cover with my lifting needs.

Also take a look at the MX series. I agree with others, for 30 acres a 50HP machine would be best.

I do what the OP is wanting to do and I disagree I think 70 HP minimum. I have a 95 HP Kubota and I am dam glad that I didn't go smaller

Feed in super sacks are 2000+ pounds plus I use 2 hay spears on each side of my back board and I can carry 2 round bales on the front. Sure saves time

That's the one to get. I have a 2016 model, has about 1200 hours on it, zero problems and it'll do every thing you need it to do.

That's the one to get. I have a 2016 model, has about 1200 hours on it, zero problems and it'll do every thing you need it to do.

I think you'd be better served with more HP and weight. I wouldn't hesitate to own any of the major brands, but chicks really dig Mahindras.

How much does a new 30-50hp tractor w/loader cost?


Open station?

I have 20 acres to take care of: mowing, spraying, fertilizing, and moving round bales. I bought a JD 4044 last summer. I can’t imagine going any smaller.

A new L4060 4 WD, with cab and loader cost 39.5K in 2016

I recently bought a compact tractor b2601. The kubotas FEL are numbered - that's the weight in kg's they can move. 1kg = 2.2 lbs. So that will give you an idea of the working capacity. I got the pallet forks, bucket, boom pole, and box blade. Later I got a quick hitch, titan ballast box, heavy hitch tooth bar, trailer mover, and 20ft equipment trailer. I have a single axel aluminum trailer that is technically rated to carry it...and it has, but it makes me feel uncomfortable towing it.

I live in the suburbs...when we moved in I had an old cub cadet that I used to move boats around the back yard, it worked good but my sons were afraid of it...and to be honest it was an accident waiting to happen. So, I traded it off and got a little kubota rtv (500 gas model) to move the boats around - it worked well. Then we got the RV trailer and I thought I was going to break the rtv on the first move just towing it in the yard. I made basically a dual wheel caster to try and move that RV trailer and it just plowed the ground with the RV.

So I got the tractor and it's freaking awesome. You will need ballast with a compact. I didn't want to fill my tires, so I got the ballast box and it made a big difference. Like before ballast I would have to use 4 wheel drive to move stuff around to keep the tires from spinning, now I rarely have to.

I checked out yanmar before I went kubota. I chose the kubota due to tilt steering and 3 speed transmission.

I'm not sure that you need more horsepower for what you want to do...when you get too big you have to deal with DEF and stuff on new tractors and kubota had some issues with one of their 30 or 33 hp models...constantly cycling the def cleaner or something like that. But, I think, you can get a bigger tractor with non def diesel engine size, or a modest used older model for a decent price.

Anyways...sorry for rambling...tractors are the coolest adult lego ever made...well, at least in the top three...you have to include the ar and the 10/22 i guess.

Oh, and if you go new you'll probably get 0% finnancing if you want it. The diff between total cash and 0% financing was like 400 dollars. YMMV.

PS Watch Tractor Mike, Tractor Time with Tim, and Good Works Tractors on youtube...they have good info regardless of brand.

You might consider the Branson tractors. I bought a 2018 3725 last year. I did a lot of research and it was the heaviest in its class, a necessity for moving heavy logs and rig mats that I build. I am always amazed at what this tractor will lift and pull. And it is considerably less expensive than Kubota. Mine is the H model, meaning it has the hydrostat. I'm very impressed with mine.

Got a B2650 three years ago. Great tractor for my needs. One thing I will guarantee you, you will not be lifting 1000# bales with the FEL. I can get ~900 pounders off the ground w forks, but it is u stable and not getting moved far. I have a hay spear for the 3 PT and is effortless.

Most of my use is moving horseshit and snow. Lots of other jobs as well.
“Let the machine do the work” is my motto!

For what you described, 40hp minimum.

Thanks for the continued input, fellas.
There's certainly more than one way to skin a cat, just gotta find what I like best.

Sam, I'm thinking open station just for the mere simplicity. I'm hoping to spend under $20K on a 2-3 y/o machine.

I've made a bundle in the market this year and this is essentially a gift to myself after literally rolling round bails around by hand for years.
Added the New Holland Boomer 45 / 47 to the list.

Sorry but that’s a lawn tractor. Buy at least the 3 series and better yet a Grand L. Used would be fine. Go to tractor house and do a search.

Ask around about Dealer support that makes all the difference.

One thing to watch on the cheaper tractors is the drive axle diameter and bearing size. They're making a cheaper tractor, so they can sell a cheaper tractor.

I have a l4060. Fill the tires and put a heavy box blade for weight. It will do the lifting you require but no one ever wished they bought a smaller tractor so I would go as big as your budget will reasonably allow. Their is a big difference between the “economy” and “premium” models. Make sure you pay attention to the weight as well as the hp.

I pull a 10’ notill drive and lift round bales with mine. The l4060 is a little under powered on hills while mowing though.

Looking at this M7060 tomorrow...2012, 1400hrs. Shuttle shift. Pre-emissions. 67HP.

Any actual owner advice on this model?

My Father in law bought one like that and i liked it a lot.

It is in Parker Co.now and in a few months it and all of the attachments will be coming home.

The only thing i didn't like is the hose couplers are weird and i had to get some of the regular ones to use it.

I think you will like it.

I use same tractor at my father in laws farm, only difference his has a cab, I have a kubota b2650, great around my little farm, how fil's 7060 is a beast and will do anything you want it. Hydrostat steals a lot of power from the engine, my kubota is hydrostat, I prefer the shuttle shift on my fil's

My background is mining/construction equipment rather than tractors, but I'll chime in. I have learned to love hydrostatics for dynamic braking, maneuverability, and inching control. We LOVE them down here for mining machinery - the safety and control on steep grades is priceless. The key to a happy hydrostatic transmission is CLEAN, QUALITY fluids. If buying a used machine like that 2012, do yourself a favor and thoroughly check all the fluids for discoloration, deterioration, wear metals, and things like that. Don't be afraid to change fluids and filters if you have doubts about the previous owner's maintenance schedule.

You could also look at a skid-steer with auxiliary hydraulics if that's more your speed. Auger attachments are available and skid-steers are more capable in earthmoving/pioneering applications, but they're harder to work on (mainly access issues) and have poor tire life.

Now that is a tractor! Category II lift points, I assume? Be aware of this when purchasing 3 point implements.

I would much rather have that one around even a tiny farm, than a brand new baby, wanna be, pretend, tractor.

I have spent a couple days on that model tractor doing loader work. I have absolutely nothing but good things to say about it.

Only negative: When the owner's wife shoots at a black bear, in the dark, behind the house, with a 12 ga and a magnum load of 00, and when she misses the bear completely, and also fails to consider the tractor in the background, said tractor is susceptible to broken (very expensive) rear cab windows, and expensive flattened rear tires.

But that is probably more of a wife issue, than it is a tractor issue.

I have that 2501 tractor, except in a std transmission.It willl lift 800 pound bales, but I think it would grunt on 1000.Certainly lifting a cow to butcher would be pushing it's max.

Everything else you could do,but you would be working it fairly hard,go to the next step up,but you don't need dthe 40-50-60 HP, 35 -37will do you.

I'd advise Ag tires,not industrial as the industrial's don't have much traction in snow or mud and there is no clearance for chains. Then set the wheels out as far as you can. They are too unstable in close Definitely get the 4WD and buy a set of tractor chains.

I didn't like the HS drive but prefer the 8 fwd,4 Reverse std transmision. That gives me more options when working slow

You definitely need more weight in the back when lifting. I have a 5 ft heavier blade and I add 100 pounds of lead to it when lifting 3x3, 800 pound bales. Even a brush hog on back needs more weight for lifting. With the 100 pounds extra, I still have to be careful. It comes down pretty fast and I have to move the bales keeping them close to the gound..It will stack two high though, but not three. You would have to look at the specs of the front end loader for the next sized tractor.I don' t have them to compare.

Edited .In restrospect, I think the next size up from the 2501 has the same size frame. If so you would not add more weight, just more power.

I bought the 3 ft hay spears. 4ft is too long unles you are lifting 3 x 4's which the 2501 won't. ( the back end will come of the ground, I tried it)

With the 2501,you can't get an enclosed cab should you want one in the future.

As for drilling holes, unless it is softer ground, you don't have any down loading capabilities using the PTO.Only way to do that is get hydraulics to the front end and buy a post hole digger with hydrualics on it. That would also make it capable using of a snow blower or blade on the fornt .

Ihave 5 ft PTO driven snow blower on mine it is kind of a pain blowing snow in reverse all the time.

What a croc of sheit, pretty obvious you never had one.

I drove both so don't give my any of your sheit.

I am firmly in camp with Saddlesore. The hydro excels in tight back and forth loader work. And pulling a hay baler in varying conditions. Even doing loader work, I actually prefer a shuttle shift. But nothing beats a hydrostat for baling.

For ANYTHING else, give me a clutch and a gearshift.

And yes, I started driving a hydro IH in 1972. Operated hydros from 30 hp to 100 hp tractors, and in an articulated Bobcat.

An update here....

Looked at the Kubota 70hp, decent rig, a beast really. It needed work done to it, but not too much. Everything adds up though--$.
The clutch/shift was a big negative. I wanted a hydro and In the end decided that the 70hp 'bota was simply more tractor than needed.

Ended up buying a Case IH Farmall 50C, this rig is mech identical to the New Holland Boomer 50, which was on my short list above. Apparently they share the same assembly line; both have solid reviews.

Tractor was used for a few years at a horse race track to pull a finishing rake, but honestly it's just like new.
The rear PTO remains unused. Under the hood is immaculate; tires are all in new condition.

47 hp, hydro, air ride seat, remote PTO, tilt steer. Joystick bucket. Wife jumped right on and drove it around, easy peasy and all smiles. Big plus!
Lift is rated at 1850# at the pin. I'll be working on (concrete) rear ballast; bucket is a quick tach--30 seconds to remove.
It was 9* this morning and it fired right up without a block heater.
it is emissions equipped and in truth I've never operated such a clean burning rig--zero smoke and smell--In comparison the Kubota was a fume-belching monster.

Thanks for the input here! it helped with the knowledge base going into this.
It's about time, work around our ranch will be so much easier...

If you don't mind me asking, how much did that little gem set you back?

Not at all, I paid $23K delivered.
I bought from an individual who brokers really fine tractors. No sales tax and he delivered. I called Case and replacement cost is $36K plus tax.

That 23K was rich for my blood, but given the crazy stock market gains I've had this year it's all house money.
As a cheap ass, this purchase was pretty fun.

You did well for.23K

yeah, baby.....

Yup, looks like a great tractor at a very fair price. Good luck with it!

not big enough

much better

Yea,the 2501 is the same size frame as the 3301, but less power.You will be lacking in the PTO and lifting capability You sure won't be lifting a cow. My 2501 will lift a 3x3 ,800 pound bale, but not 3x4'st. and I need an implement plus about 150-pounds of lead on the back For post hole digging,you won't have any down pressure on the 3pt

No farmer ever said "I wish I had bought a smaller tractor."


Bruce

I have two 55 gallon drums of -20* windshield washer fluid down at NAPA to pick up for the rears....if this damn weather would finally break to work in decent conditions! Brutal March.

I was shopping for a tractor for the Idaho property a few years ago. Didn't want new with the smog crap.
searched and found a 20 year old Kubota L4610HST 46 HP for a reasonable price with 900 hours one it.
Had my brother do a complete service.. Shipped from Calif to Id.
I have had smaller tractor and worked the hell out of them.
I'm happy with the size and power would not want anything smaller.

I sell John Deere for a living.i will say Kubota makes a quality tractor.The Deere apple for apples is competitive on price.Someone on this thread said that Yanmar makes our tractors this is incorrect .We use yanmar engines in our compacts up to 75HP but they do not make our tractors.They are made in Augusta Georgia.Just another internet rumor that people take as gospel that is not true.Good luck with purchase.

Isn't that the truth! I only have 11 acres and use my Kubota L3010 for mowing. I often wish I had a 50 hp when I do some earth work. The problem I ran into with 50 hp tractors is I could buy 100+ hp tractors with loaders cheaper. If it wasn't for the fact bigger tractors need bigger more expensive attachments, I probably would have bought one.

A very short search shows John Deere operates a tractor factory in Germany, and John Deere has sold German built tractors in America for decades.

John Deere also currently operates 3 tractor factories in Brazil.

Yanmar claims to have built John Deere model numbers: 650, 670, 750, 755, 770, 790, 850, 855,870, 950, 970, 990, 1020, 1023E, 1026K, 1070, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1320, 1400, 1420, 1450, 1520, 1530, 1620, 1630, 1650, 2305, 2320, 2520, 2520HST, 2720, 3005, 3032E, 3033R, 3036E, 3038E, 3039R, 3046R, 3120, 3203, 3320, 3520, 3720, and 4005.

As well as building engines for John Deere to place in other models.

"List of tractors built by Yanmar for other companies" is very easy to find if one is interested. Either Yanmar is publishing false information, or you are ill-informed about your product line.

In past history it has always been as Equipment (Machinery) go's
#1 Built in the USA ( Very Best you could Buy if you can afford it)
#2 Built in Japan (Again if you can afford it)
#3 Built in Taiwan (getting to affordable range for a lot of people)
#4 Built in Korea
#5 Built in China
#6 Built in India.
I do not know where Germany , Italy , Spain and all the other country's fall in this list.

I do not know if this rating list is still current. It is what I have been told for the better part of my 60 year life span.


There are a lot of small tractors that are built all over the place.
John Deer most of the small ones as far as I have been in formed come from India and Korea.
Kubota Japan
Mahindra Korea India and China

I for one paid maybe a bit more for my Kubota MX5800 than purchasing another brand But I take a bit of comfort in the fact that as I have been told my entire life That I have purchased the #2 area in the world for Manufacturing Machinery.
That Said
There are NO , ZERO small tractors fully built in the United States of America.
Assembled yes and that is more than likely Partially assembled not 100%.

I have a GREAT Dealer that supports my Tractor and that helped my Decision on the brand that I decided on so much so. That when I was looking into the purchase of an UTV they were the 1st people that I approached and I made another (2nd) purchase of a Kubota Product.

Like I said above.
I do not know where the Quality line up is around the world but when I have to buy out side of this Country I look and see where products are built. It is a big part of my decision in that purchase.

For me it is USA 1st
Japan 2nd.
Taiwan 3rd.
I have looked very close to machinery built in Germany and Italy as well. I usually can not afford the price tags from those Country's

I have been very happy with my Japanese (USA assembled) Tractor. It has surprised me with how much it can and has done for me.

Just bought a 2012 L3800 for the farm. Will probably add something bigger like an International 1066 hydro in the future as I get into heavier tasks. Wouldn’t want anything smaller than the L3800, especially with the hydro. That Case looks like a nice rig, not too big, but big enough for most things. I think you might be unimpressed with its stump pulling abilities, though. Good luck with it.

I had a JD 850, made by Yanmar, I have a JD 790, made by Yanmar. I have a JD 4700, Yanmar engine, rest of tractor built in Augusta GA.

Cragger knows what he is talking about.

Kubota makes good stuff.

This

That was a good deal. Pretty good size for a utility tractor. I paid 20K 15 years ago for my 32 HP Kubota Loader series.

I bought this with just 800 hours on it . Pulls a 6 ft bush hog .

Thanks, the joy of this tractor is that it is literally like new.
I could have gone down to Case and spent $12K more for the exact same thing.