New 22/250 Savage model 10. First cartridge chambered and ejected fine. Second went in most of the way with a bit of reluctance and then stopped. Now it won't come out and I have a loaded cartridge stuck. Extractor tore a bit of brass off and skipped over.
Would really rather not unscrew the barrel and go thru that hassle.
Anyone got tricks? Think I will pass on hammering a rod down the barrel lol
Set the rifle upright and pour some Kroil down the bore. Let it set overnight. THEN, put the rod down the bore and give it a little tap, should come right out..
Set the rifle upright and pour some Kroil down the bore. Let it set overnight. THEN, put the rod down the bore and give it a little tap, should come right out..
New 22/250 Savage model 10. First cartridge chambered and ejected fine. Second went in most of the way with a bit of reluctance and then stopped. Now it won't come out and I have a loaded cartridge stuck. Extractor tore a bit of brass off and skipped over.
Would really rather not unscrew the barrel and go thru that hassle.
Anyone got tricks? Think I will pass on hammering a rod down the barrel lol
Easy. Cleaning rod down the barrel. Face muzzle (with rod in it) down range, but towards a post or wall. Shove the rifle muzzle, with rod inserted, into the post or wall. Out pops the stuck cartridge.
New 22/250 Savage model 10. First cartridge chambered and ejected fine. Second went in most of the way with a bit of reluctance and then stopped. Now it won't come out and I have a loaded cartridge stuck. Extractor tore a bit of brass off and skipped over.
Would really rather not unscrew the barrel and go thru that hassle.
Anyone got tricks? Think I will pass on hammering a rod down the barrel lol
Easy. Cleaning rod down the barrel. Face muzzle (with rod in it) down range, but towards a post or wall. Shove the rifle muzzle, with rod inserted, into the post or wall. Out pops the stuck cartridge.
I read "face muzzle" and almost experienced a moment of TDS......then I continued reading... Good process. Remove the bolt first so you have one less thing flopping around.
Jag on rod, into the muzzle, lower until it touches, mark your rod. Fill the bore partially w/Kroil. Now, get a very tight patch onto the jag and work the patch/jag down to create hydraulic pressure. If you're getting too close to the mark and you haven't popped the case out yet, remove the whole works, tighter patch, more Kroil, rinse-repeat.
I would not dump oil in barrel, you're asking for even bigger mess. Throw the barreled action in the freezer overnight, then try to gently tap it out. I'd pull barrel and grab head with locking pliers, but if you don't have the tools....
If you were super careful and lined up everything extremely precise, it may be possible to shoot it out with another rifle of same or smaller caliber also. I've never tried it or know anyone that has, but theres no reason it wouldn't work.
If you were super careful and lined up everything extremely precise, it may be possible to shoot it out with another rifle of same or smaller caliber also. I've never tried it or know anyone that has, but theres no reason it wouldn't work.
My experience with badly stuck cartridges is minimal but successful. The hydraulic method spreads force against more surface of the bullet and case, and forces liquid into any available space between case and chamber, and avoids sharp blows on tip of bullet which might - - - - -.
On that Savage, I might choose to remove the barrel.
So far I have not tried the grease gun idea but the others are a no go so far.
Will keep trying to get it loose.
May just say the hell with it and unscrew the barrel
Get a can of butane or freeze off (break free type product that chills the target) Try hitting the cartridge with that with a chemical heat pack around the chamber (Shrink the cartrige, expand the chamber.)
That's how they set critical bearings...
Thats what i get for not reading all the way to the end...
If you were super careful and lined up everything extremely precise, it may be possible to shoot it out with another rifle of same or smaller caliber also. I've never tried it or know anyone that has, but theres no reason it wouldn't work.
If you were super careful and lined up everything extremely precise, it may be possible to shoot it out with another rifle of same or smaller caliber also. I've never tried it or know anyone that has, but theres no reason it wouldn't work.
It just hit me, you should take the bolt out of the gun with the stuck case, so it and the bullet from the other gun can exit the rear of the action. And wear ear plugs. Safety first.
Just for clarity... Are you saying somebody on the Fire had a cartridge stuck in the bore, put a rod down the muzzle end of the bore to tap/push the cartridge rearward out of the chamber, tapped the rod against the bullet to jar the round loose and ignited the primer?
Just for clarity... Are you saying somebody on the Fire had a cartridge stuck in the bore, put a rod down the muzzle end of the bore to tap/push the cartridge rearward out of the chamber, tapped the rod against the bullet to jar the round loose and ignited the primer?
Just for clarity... Are you saying somebody on the Fire had a cartridge stuck in the bore, put a rod down the muzzle end of the bore to tap/push the cartridge rearward out of the chamber, tapped the rod against the bullet to jar the round loose and ignited the primer?
Think I will pass on hammering a rod down the barrel lol
Why LOL? That is the correct thing to do and it's safe unless you have the bolt closed.
Remember, the cartridge doesn't contain the pressure, the barrel / chamber steel do that, the cartridge case is just a high pressure gasket. with the bolt open, even if the cartridge does fire (which it won't), it'll just blow the back of the case out through the action, it won't send the bullet, or the rod, out hard enough to be a problem.
You could also hold the bolt against the base of the stuck cartridge as tight as possible and squeeze the trigger. I would squint real hard and look to the side just in case.
I had case head separation today and got the case stuck in the chamber. I pushed an ear plug down the case and used plastic epoxy to fill the case. Once it hardened I just used my cleaning rod to tap it out. Easy.
Hydraulic method using oil and a lead slug with a wood dowel. The slug will seal at the muzzle easily. No different from slugging a bore with soft lead.
Just for clarity... Are you saying somebody on the Fire had a cartridge stuck in the bore, put a rod down the muzzle end of the bore to tap/push the cartridge rearward out of the chamber, tapped the rod against the bullet to jar the round loose and ignited the primer?
My friend Johns 300 Salvage. We determined he needs small base dies for this rifle.
I repaired the stock and got it back to him a a few months ago.
I had case head separation today and got the case stuck in the chamber. I pushed an ear plug down the case and used plastic epoxy to fill the case. Once it hardened I just used my cleaning rod to tap it out. Easy.
I have a section of fifty cal cleaning rod welded to an ez out for just that eventuality.
I recall some story (40 years ago now) of a benchrest shooter getting a live round stuck and removing the bolt and tapping the catridge back out using a cleaning rod done the muzzle. The round detonated as it was ejected (how?) and a piece of thr brass hit his nearby wife in the chest causing a fatal injury. I thought this happened over here but don't have any details.
When I was experimenting with cast loads in my 458 I ran into an issue where the powder didn't ignite and the primer blew the projectile into the start if the rifling. It was surprisingly hard to remove and I ended up breaking and wedging a wooden dowel in the barrel. I had a gunsmith remove bullet and dowel for me - he melted out the projectile and then the dowel was knocked out.
I now have a steel rod with a 9mm case jammed on the end as a ramrod but haven't had to use it. Lesson learned was even medium powders are too slow for cast and ignition gets weird - hangfires are a warning sign.
Set the rifle upright and pour some Kroil down the bore. Let it set overnight. THEN, put the rod down the bore and give it a little tap, should come right out..
I recall some story (40 years ago now) of a benchrest shooter getting a live round stuck and removing the bolt and tapping the catridge back out using a cleaning rod done the muzzle. The round detonated as it was ejected (how?) and a piece of thr brass hit his nearby wife in the chest causing a fatal injury. I thought this happened over here but don't have any details.
When I was experimenting with cast loads in my 458 I ran into an issue where the powder didn't ignite and the primer blew the projectile into the start if the rifling. It was surprisingly hard to remove and I ended up breaking and wedging a wooden dowel in the barrel. I had a gunsmith remove bullet and dowel for me - he melted out the projectile and then the dowel was knocked out.
I now have a steel rod with a 9mm case jammed on the end as a ramrod but haven't had to use it. Lesson learned was even medium powders are too slow for cast and ignition gets weird - hangfires are a warning sign.
That bench rest story sounds like the one that happened in St. Louis Missouri at the super shoot. The case hit the wife in the heart and she died right there. I wasn’t there so I didn’t witness it but I know 2 guys that did. Wife stayed behind the rifle when the husband removed the bolt. He went to tap it out and it went off and launched the cleaning rod out of his hand. Everyone went to laughing because they thought no one got hurt then his wife discovered she had been hit in the chest. I know it doesn’t sound plausible but it happened some how. It might be why all the bench rest shooters quit neck sizing and started setting their shoulders back .002!!!