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I can do it but I hate it... I have a cop saw but it’s for siding so I don’t use it, and those plastic miter boxes stink

What’s the best / easiest way.
A DeWalt 12 inch saw.
Fine toothed blade for detail/interior work.
Good blade on a good mitre saw.
Originally Posted by goalie
Good blade on a good mitre saw.


This
A compound 12" miter saw with a 60+ tooth blade and a good setup for indexing the boards.

This guy: http://finishcarpentry.tv makes good instructional videos and does good work using a lot of homeowner grade tools.
Yes to a miter saw.
We use a 12" DeWalt with a fine tooth blade.

Just as handy is the Hitachi angle air finish nailer.
Originally Posted by hanco
A DeWalt 12 inch saw.


Correct, I much prefer a sliding. Much more versatile.
Cut with a miter saw...

Final fit with a "Cuban Plane".

Cuban Plane?

4.5" grinder with 36 grit wheel... 60 grit it you are fitting teak on boats like I used to do... and where I learned the technique from Cubans in Miami.
I had an old Stanley like this for years, trimmed several houses. Gave it away after I got the DeWalt 12”


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]wallpaper candice swanepoel
I’d have thought you want a smaller blade miter.

I have a rigid compound miter I bought to a chop saw I can use, but it’s pretty darn big so I don’t like lugging it around.
I still have one of those with 2 saws . . . haven't used it since I got the 12" DeWalt Porter Cable though.
I have an old old Stanley miter box that was my fathers. Probably bought in the 50's. The cuts are still dead on. New hand cut boxes like that I've looked at, not impressed. I was taught to cope every corner. I was trimming houses at 15 years old. If I see corners done on 45's I call that rank amateur work.
I’m hoping I never trim another damn thing.
Pencil and a coping saw.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-14-in-compound-single-bevel-miter-saw-57174.html cheap and easy but i love my 12"mikwaikee cp sliding miter
a quality trim blade on a good sliding compound mitre saw followed up with some careful coping/sanding. i hate trim work. probably the reason i have two bedrooms that have 5 y/o windows with no trim that my wife has given up reminding me about.
Originally Posted by rem141r
a quality trim blade on a good sliding compound mitre saw followed up with some careful coping/sanding. i hate trim work. probably the reason i have two bedrooms that have 5 y/o windows with no trim that my wife has given up reminding me about.



I have crown molding done in half of the house, need to do the rest, hate it worse.


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
Originally Posted by Armednfree
I have an old old Stanley miter box that was my fathers. Probably bought in the 50's. The cuts are still dead on. New hand cut boxes like that I've looked at, not impressed. I was taught to cope every corner. I was trimming houses at 15 years old. If I see corners done on 45's I call that rank amateur work.


This^^^ coping trim is the only way to go for a professional job!

I agree with all the above people who have recommended a good miter saw with a fine tooth blade.

I'm no trim carpenter but even I can get good results with that combination. I use a Dewalt miter saw.
Originally Posted by hanco
I’m hoping I never trim another damn thing.



After I get done building from the ground up, by trim time I’m so fugking aggravated and ready to be done, makes trim work a hated part of the project.

And with someone neurotic helping like mrs slumlord, we have to have crown moulding, chair rail, howe casing, baaeboard w/shoe-moulding, fluted endcaps, rosettes, etc

She wantin us to put crown mould in a rental last year. LOL, woman you’ve lost your mind
Originally Posted by rem141r
a quality trim blade on a good sliding compound mitre saw followed up with some careful coping/sanding.


This worked for me


A little caulk and a little paint makes a carpenter what he/she ain't!

I taught my wife this little phrase during a remodel.

She's even more critical than I am so I let her do all the final fitting of the trim.
I've trimmed a few houses and redone our doors and windows a few times and my Delta miter saw has been a godsend. Way back when I started doing this I used my dad's old hand miter box that he bought in the 50's and it drove me nuts. Never was all that accurate to start with and nothing really matched. The miter saw makes all the difference. Quite some time ago I learned the trick most trim guys have probably known half their lives- cut the first baseboard square to fit into the corner, then cut the piece going 90 degrees at a 45 and cope along the line where the miter meets the front. Matches perfectly every time if you take your time and cope it carefully and do a little sanding to fit.

Rather than lug my miter saw around all the time, I finally bought a rolling stand at Home depot that fits my saw when I helped my son remodel his rental last year. It folds up so it can be stored in a fairly small spot, but when it is raised into position and the extension arms are put out I can work on some pretty long pieces and get very accurate cuts....

Now, add a couple good nail guns and you have a good trim tool set up.

Bob
This is mrs slumlord’s rig.
Good bud of mine from high school, his daughter got married. Mrs slumlord made their wedding cakes.

Saw was her ‘wedding favor’

lol

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.
Hire Roger.
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



12' is a little big. They are only doing base boards.
Don’t need a 12” or sliding for interior trim. Pretty rare to need either.

Good fence setup is important. True and square the blade to the fence and get a starret miter protractor for ease of fit in corners. Rarely is it actually 45 or 90.

Worked for 7 years as a trim carpenter. How I paid my way through school
I have a Craftsman compound mitre saw for that.
Originally Posted by slumlord
This is mrs slumlord’s rig.
Good bud of mine from high school, his daughter got married. Mrs slumlord made their wedding cakes.

Saw was her ‘wedding favor’

lol

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]



That’s nice, need a stand for mine
A stand shure beats crawling on the floor?

Our's is a galvanized folding stand made in Battle Creek, Iowa.

I forget the brand name. The company was bought up, and the price went up.
I think it was about $85.00

Originally Posted by kevinJ
Don’t need a 12” or sliding for interior trim. Pretty rare to need either.

Good fence setup is important. True and square the blade to the fence and get a starret miter protractor for ease of fit in corners. Rarely is it actually 45 or 90.

Worked for 7 years as a trim carpenter. How I paid my way through school


Need has nothing to do with it.

If you're one and done, the 12" sliding will be taken off your hands much quicker and with less loss.
I've used a DeWalt double bevel sliding compound miter saw for years. The double bevel turns the whole thing into quick and easy cutting. It slowed you too cut all trim work including crown flat. Easy peasy
Originally Posted by jaguartx
Hire Roger.


He's in Florida spending his millions.
Originally Posted by Sheister
I've trimmed a few houses and redone our doors and windows a few times and my Delta miter saw has been a godsend. Way back when I started doing this I used my dad's old hand miter box that he bought in the 50's and it drove me nuts. Never was all that accurate to start with and nothing really matched. The miter saw makes all the difference. Quite some time ago I learned the trick most trim guys have probably known half their lives- cut the first baseboard square to fit into the corner, then cut the piece going 90 degrees at a 45 and cope along the line where the miter meets the front. Matches perfectly every time if you take your time and cope it carefully and do a little sanding to fit.

Rather than lug my miter saw around all the time, I finally bought a rolling stand at Home depot that fits my saw when I helped my son remodel his rental last year. It folds up so it can be stored in a fairly small spot, but when it is raised into position and the extension arms are put out I can work on some pretty long pieces and get very accurate cuts....

Now, add a couple good nail guns and you have a good trim tool set up.

Bob


Are you sure you're from Oregon?
I use a small Delta miter saw that uses circular (skill saw ) blades.
I AM a trim carpenter (part-time these days) and I use a 12" Delta compound miter saw. The only time I have ever wished I had a sliding miter saw has been when I was doing exterior siding.
I also tote one of those Stanley manual versions, which I learned on over 40 years ago, in the truck for quick simple jobs when I don't want to tote and set up the heavy beech-ass Delta.
I use the 12" Dewalt. with fine blade. Also works good for cutting butt stocks when you are putting on a recoild pad
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



I see this method in starter homes and trailer houses.

All high end homes get precise miters
Bullshit, deflave nailed it.
Although, unless you're looking to resell, a standard 10" mitre saw will do fine.
Originally Posted by callnum
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



I see this method in starter homes and trailer houses.

All high end homes get precise miters


Doubtful- corners on sheetrock are never square because of the taping and mud to finish to the corner fills in the corner. Can't put a 90 degree mitered baseboard corner into a rounded corner and make it look finished. I know lots of finish carpenters who do high end houses and all of them cope their corners....
Bullnose corners have 90 degree corners at the bottom.

Real easy to miter, but these aren’t your normal subdivision homes at Del Boca Vista.
Originally Posted by callnum
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



I see this method in starter homes and trailer houses.

All high end homes get precise miters


Bravo on your attempt of bullschit.

Those that know, know.

LOL
Originally Posted by callnum
Bullnose corners have 90 degree corners at the bottom.

Real easy to miter, but these aren’t your normal subdivision homes at Del Boca Vista.


LOL
Many ways to skin a cat... Mine is a Hitachi 10" compound miter, with a laser guide and fine tooth blade. So far works very well. I only use it for trim inside for now, don't need a 12" for that. Rounded Bullnose corners are a PIA. Coping actually can be easier than the double compound cutting stuff for crown molding.
Originally Posted by NVhntr
Bullshit, deflave nailed it.
Although, unless you're looking to resell, a standard 10" mitre saw will do fine.

Deflave hasn’t nailed anything so hard since Prom 1995
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by callnum
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



I see this method in starter homes and trailer houses.

All high end homes get precise miters
.



Bravo on your attempt of bullschit.

Those that know, know.

LOL



TFF!
Originally Posted by callnum



TFF!


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Handsome couple!
Originally Posted by BobBrown
Originally Posted by NVhntr
Bullshit, deflave nailed it.
Although, unless you're looking to resell, a standard 10" mitre saw will do fine.

Deflave hasn’t nailed anything so hard since Prom 1995


How many times do I have to apologize?
Originally Posted by hanco
Originally Posted by rem141r
a quality trim blade on a good sliding compound mitre saw followed up with some careful coping/sanding. i hate trim work. probably the reason i have two bedrooms that have 5 y/o windows with no trim that my wife has given up reminding me about.



I have crown molding done in half of the house, need to do the rest, hate it worse.


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Way worse..
People tend to look up not down, and you can't blame anyone else for kicking the crown moldings...
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by callnum



TFF!


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Ha!!! I knew it..... fugg me
Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Handsome couple!



That callnum on the left.

And the right.
They look gender confused....
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by callnum
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



I see this method in starter homes and trailer houses.

All high end homes get precise miters


Bravo on your attempt of bullschit.

Those that know, know.

LOL


Go back a year later and look at those nice tight 45's. With swelling and shrinkage they likely ain't going to be so tight anymore.
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Handsome couple!



That callnum on the left.

And the right.




He looks good with bangs.
Originally Posted by Armednfree
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by callnum
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



I see this method in starter homes and trailer houses.

All high end homes get precise miters


Bravo on your attempt of bullschit.

Those that know, know.

LOL


Go back a year later and look at those nice tight 45's. With swelling and shrinkage they likely ain't going to be so tight anymore.



That's why you cut everything long and create a crush fit..
Originally Posted by Armednfree


Go back a year later and look at those nice tight 45's. With swelling and shrinkage they likely ain't going to be so tight anymore.


I'm sure.
Originally Posted by Armednfree

Go back a year later and look at those nice tight 45's. With swelling and shrinkage they likely ain't going to be so tight anymore.


Glue baby glue!
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by BobBrown
Originally Posted by NVhntr
Bullshit, deflave nailed it.
Although, unless you're looking to resell, a standard 10" mitre saw will do fine.

Deflave hasn’t nailed anything so hard since Prom 1995


How many times do I have to apologize?



Lots, did you get that DV mess cleared up ?

LOL
Originally Posted by callnum


Lots, did you get that DV mess cleared up ?

LOL


Nobody ever explained it to me.
Inside corners should be coped. For copes, I rough out the back cut on a table saw and finish with a rasp.
I went "rustic" solved all this bullshit... wink

I wonder how obese callnum gets on a Sunday?

LOL
Originally Posted by deflave

I wonder how obese callnum gets on a Sunday?

LOL


Why are Democrats immune to the "covid" ?
Originally Posted by kingston
Inside corners should be coped. For copes, I rough out the back cut on a table saw and finish with a rasp.


We switched to a fine tooth blade in a Bosch jigsaw.

Cuts the cope time by 2/3.
Originally Posted by irfubar
Originally Posted by deflave

I wonder how obese callnum gets on a Sunday?

LOL


Why are Democrats immune to the "covid" ?


Because Tester and his wife are fat as fugk.
Originally Posted by callnum
Originally Posted by deflave
Buy a 12' sliding, compound miter saw and stand. Sell it when you're done.

Inside corners get coping cuts, anybody that doesn't do this isn't white.

If you can't use a coping saw, don't hang trim.



I see this method in starter homes and trailer houses.

All high end homes get precise miters


I doubt you could do more to sound like an idiot .......but keep trying!
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by callnum



TFF!


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Are they brothers?
I kinda favor the 12" Hitachi compound mitre saw. It rests on a custom built stand in my shop. It's cut a bunch of trim over the years. Bunch of decking, a bunch of everything.

Keep thinking it will wear out, but no.

Replace your 80 tooth blade more often than you think you need to. Trust me, it's wrecked right now.
Originally Posted by hunter4623
Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by callnum



TFF!


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Are they brothers?


That callnum on the left.

"He" deadlift 95lbs.

LOL
Originally Posted by slumlord
Originally Posted by hanco
I’m hoping I never trim another damn thing.



After I get done building from the ground up, by trim time I’m so fugking aggravated and ready to be done, makes trim work a hated part of the project.

And with someone neurotic helping like mrs slumlord, we have to have crown moulding, chair rail, howe casing, baaeboard w/shoe-moulding, fluted endcaps, rosettes, etc

She wantin us to put crown mould in a rental last year. LOL, woman you’ve lost your mind

😂



Just another reminder of item 227 on my to do list.
I guess its about time I get reacquainted with my miter box again.
Originally Posted by Armednfree
I have an old old Stanley miter box that was my fathers. Probably bought in the 50's. The cuts are still dead on. New hand cut boxes like that I've looked at, not impressed. I was taught to cope every corner. I was trimming houses at 15 years old. If I see corners done on 45's I call that rank amateur work.

This - I built, and trimmed many houses - coping cuts.
Caulk can't hide a crappy job.
Some of what my wife, and I have done with the DeWalt, and stand.[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
It's more the person doing the job, than the equipment. One will make it perhaps easier, but a Craftsman can do a lot with little. Yes the crap from Home Depot or Lowe's will shrink or expand over time. The perfect job is not so much now.
set 'em up single, or double.....

[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]
That's a work of art Wabigoon.
I didn't know that you were a finish carpenter too?

Nothing looks better than that natural grain and warm color coming through the clear finish.
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