Been driving going on 50 years, all of my vehicles were manual transmission until last year when I bought a Nissan Frontier pickup. Engine braking (going down a hill in a lower gear instead of riding the brakes) ain’t much of an issue in mostly flat Texas.
Last month I was driving around Pennsylvania, Upstate NY and Vermont, lots of steep grades. Way back in the 60’s my English grandpa taught me you drive down a hill in the same gear you’d drive up it.
Engine braking with an automatic transmission, good or bad?
We have a Toyota Highlander with the V6, 8 gears. I have to shift down to 4th to get any noticeable braking on a steep hill. I don't think these newer transmissions with all the gears allow for it like the old 3 spd autos did. But I'm spoiled. My pickup is a Dodge diesel with a 6 spd manual and an exhaust brake. That will slow you down.
Been driving going on 50 years, all of my vehicles were manual transmission until last year when I bought a Nissan Frontier pickup. Engine braking (going down a hill in a lower gear instead of riding the brakes) ain’t much of an issue in mostly flat Texas.
Last month I was driving around Pennsylvania, Upstate NY and Vermont, lots of steep grades. Way back in the 60’s my English grandpa taught me you drive down a hill in the same gear you’d drive up it.
Engine braking with an automatic transmission, good or bad?
Love it... When pulling our camper (up to 19K GVW) and going from Rapid City S. on Truck 16 there's some pretty steep and long grades.. The engine brake works so well that I rarely have to even touch the brakes when going down..
Way back in the 60’s my English grandpa taught me you drive down a hill in the same gear you’d drive up it.
That was true of older large trucks. In more recent years, though, engines are more powerful and you can climb in higher gears than the older ones. If you try going down in too high of a gear, you're going to have trouble. Those runaway truck escape ramps are there for those who try it. That rule no longer applies.
Compression braking in a gas rig uses the engine to slow the vehicle, not very effective in a diesel UNLESS the diesel has some type of gate to create vacuum or backpressure. 12v cummins.....no luck, 7.3 up fords....luck.
There is also a retarding feature in some auto transmissions that use the converter to eat up load. Early transmissions had troubles trying to redirect load through different bands....fords would chew reverse band by down shifting manually. Allison retarder was/is awesome.
In 1972 i had a 4 wd 3/4 ton Chevy suburban, and we bought a new 31’ Holiday Rambler travel trailer. We made several 4 to 6 week trips west with it all thru both the US and Canada Rockies. Down shifting on grades with the auto trans was just a natural thing for me to do. I once had a trailer brake issue on the road while in Maine, and we lived in PA. I just unplugged the trailer and drove it home by using my head on speed, keeping my distance from others, and using the trans and truck brakes. Drove the Chevy over 200.000 before i traded it with no tranny issues. I did have a large tranny cooler on it however strapped on front of the radiator. Back then they used a clutch fan system, where the fan didnt engage till the engine temp called for it. But i had mine set up so the fan ran all the time, and that helped alot on those long steep hills. My current Chevy truck is a 2016 and that tranny will downshift on its own on grades. But i still at times do it manually.
Compression braking in a gas rig uses the engine to slow the vehicle, not very effective in a diesel UNLESS the diesel has some type of gate to create vacuum or backpressure. 12v cummins.....no luck, 7.3 up fords....luck.
There is also a retarding feature in some auto transmissions that use the converter to eat up load. Early transmissions had troubles trying to redirect load through different bands....fords would chew reverse band by down shifting manually. Allison retarder was/is awesome.
My '08 Dodge 6.7 Cummins has an exhaust brake, not compression. It's a little less effective but a lot quieter. Mechanics say to use it all the time, not just on hills. They say that during the braking cycle, it will keep the crud blown off the turbo and make the turbo last longer.
While I'm no expert, I think engine braking is a whole 'nother beast from downshifting.
Apparently you know more than me, I have adjusted the title accordingly.
Engine breaking is exceptional good with automatic transmissions today. I have an exhaust brake on my 2015 Ram with Cummins diesel engine. I engage the tow haul so the torque converter locks up and keep the smart brake engaged. Downshifting the transmission increases the engine braking ability
There are a LOT of long downhills here in Utah. I always bump the trans into manual and drop a gear or two going down. If I'm behind a "brake rider" who has the brakes on for miles, I can usually smell their white-hot brakes long before they get to the bottom. Can't help thinking their rotors have to warp from that.
My wife's Highlander Hybrid goes into Charge mode on downhills, of course, but she's a brake rider and I cannot get her to change. (Like most women, she understands the go and stop pedals, and that is all.)
There’s nothing wrong with using a lower gear on an automatic trans for descending on a steep grade.
Every vehicle in the west has to do it and you’ll damn sure need to do it if you drive a fully loaded 24’ U-Haul and car hauler over the passes in TN or KY.
I bump my transmission into manual mode all the time. In addition to mountain driving, the Interstates around here have a lot of short exit ramps and cloverleafs where speeds go from 75 to 25 or a full stop in a hurry.
Do it all the time with auto transmissions, have been for years. Just have to take it out of "Drive" and use the manual or sequential mode to limit the upper gear. May still need to use the brakes, but not as much. Newer electronic controlled transmissions that I've used will downshift themselves when going down a hill when using cruise control.
Just be careful on icy roads. There is no clutch to slip/feather when down shifting with an auto trans, dropping the trans a gear can break loose the drive wheels and put you in a skid. Better off using brakes (gently!) on ice.
And for the earlier thread on engine braking vs down shifting - you get more effective engine braking by down shifting.
Modern trucks and SUVs with towing packages are great at automatically keeping the vehicle in the right gear on steep grades, both up and down.
Until they break, which happens more often now with transmissions than 10-15 years ago, because they are so complicated now. They are marvels of modern engineering, but for the most part, they aren't as reliable as the old mechanical four speeds of not so long ago yesteryear.
Cincinnati is a hilly city. It seems like everywhere I go, I have a steep hill to deal with.
I used to go through break pads like water. As I got older I resorted to downshifting on hills. I probably have 1/4 the number of brake pad replacements.
Compression braking in a gas rig uses the engine to slow the vehicle, not very effective in a diesel UNLESS the diesel has some type of gate to create vacuum or backpressure. 12v cummins.....no luck, 7.3 up fords....luck.
There is also a retarding feature in some auto transmissions that use the converter to eat up load. Early transmissions had troubles trying to redirect load through different bands....fords would chew reverse band by down shifting manually. Allison retarder was/is awesome.
My '08 Dodge 6.7 Cummins has an exhaust brake, not compression. It's a little less effective but a lot quieter. Mechanics say to use it all the time, not just on hills. They say that during the braking cycle, it will keep the crud blown off the turbo and make the turbo last longer.
That's the "gate" to produce backpressure. The only down side is it can float valves in extreme situations. Factory setups have enough safeties in them to make it nothing to worry about.
You don't say what year your pickup is, but almost everything made in the last 8 years or more, the engine/transmission computer interface senses several inputs as you start downgrade, you manually drop down one notch on the selector, or press a button on the dash, apply the brake at the speed you want to maintain for about 2 seconds, and the release brake pedal and inasmuch as the engine and transmission can, it will try to maintain the speed you selected. Think of it as setting a downhill cruise control. This of course doesn't work well with a 14,000 pound backhoe on a 6% grade. Owners manuals are so dumbed down that they don't explain this well, Toyota, Dodge and GM all have it, I don't know about Ford or Nissan.
I was surprised by the 05 Durango w/ 5.7 and five speed auto when we got it. It was the first vehicle that I had ever seen which, with cruise control on, down shifted automatically to reduce speed on downhill grades.
To the OP's question. Yes it is absolutely advisable to downshift the automatic transmission in down grades. It will not hurt the transmission, and on a long down grade will prevent brake failure.
Sometimes it is necessary to tap the gas pedal a little bit and raise engine RPM before the trans will actually shift into the lower selected gear. At least this is true on the older vehicles I have driven.
Been driving going on 50 years, all of my vehicles were manual transmission until last year when I bought a Nissan Frontier pickup. Engine braking (going down a hill in a lower gear instead of riding the brakes) ain’t much of an issue in mostly flat Texas.
Last month I was driving around Pennsylvania, Upstate NY and Vermont, lots of steep grades. Way back in the 60’s my English grandpa taught me you drive down a hill in the same gear you’d drive up it.
Engine braking with an automatic transmission, good or bad?
Been driving going on 50 years, all of my vehicles were manual transmission until last year when I bought a Nissan Frontier pickup. Engine braking (going down a hill in a lower gear instead of riding the brakes) ain’t much of an issue in mostly flat Texas.
Last month I was driving around Pennsylvania, Upstate NY and Vermont, lots of steep grades. Way back in the 60’s my English grandpa taught me you drive down a hill in the same gear you’d drive up it.
Engine braking with an automatic transmission, good or bad?
............I suggest you consult with a trans specialist cuz opinions will vary one way or another here on this one.... I have a 2015 Ram Hemi 2WD truck with the 8HP70 8 speed auto trans. Although I do not downshift all of the time, I have not had any issues downshifting on downgrades or on off ramps. In fact, there are two buttons on the steering wheel; one for upshifting and one for downshifting. Never have had a wrench turned on my transmission @136K plus miles. Only fluid and filter changes....Shifts just as good and as crisp now as when I bought it new.....Of course the trans fluid that I use, namely the Amsoil Signature Series full synthetic beginning at 55K miles and changed again at 125K miles, may have something to do with my trans still shifting as good now as when that truck was brand new........
What would you rather replace - brake pads or transmission parts?
Exactly!
Towing a load down 6 or 10 miles of six percent grade, and you refuse to abuse the transmission by downshifting will guarantee you never have to repair the tranny....or the brakes.
The general answer to downshifting autotrans for engine braking is that it has been good practice (gas engines) but more recent innovations with computer controlled trans features make it wise to know the facts of your own vehicle's setup.
Diesel engines - another matter - engine compression retardation not much help. On my 1952 Mack with the big valve Cummins, the Jake brake (Jacobs exhaust brake) is a big plus. The 2003 Duramax is coupled with an Allison which has an inbuilt retarder. Very good. The 2001 Dodge Cummins is 6 speed manual and will give some egine braking in lowest gears - but trailer brakes are a necessity with that setup.
2000 Ford F250 V10. 213k+ miles. I drop out of OD gear all the time here. Cajon Pass, Sherwin Grade. I 40 dropping into Kingman, I15 into Vegas. 213K on my original trans. Just a few brake taps to keep the speed in check and it's all good. I also did the same with a Suburban with a TH400 trans. I guess brake fade isn't a thing to be concerned about for some people.
What would you rather replace - brake pads or transmission parts?
Transmission designs have gone thru many iterations over the years, but all allow for "engine braking" via downshifting (loading the back side of the gear).
Problem isn't replacing transmission or replacing brake pads. The real issue is bleeding enough energy without boiling the brake fluid and totally losing brakes. It's common to employ brakes sparingly while downshifted.
What would you rather replace - brake pads or transmission parts?
Those runaway truck escape ramps are there for those who depend on their brakes on long steep hills.
Brake fade is real.
Brake fade?
Yep.
And brake fires too.
Not sure where Tyrone lives, but some "hills" I've been on will and have eaten up more than one set of brakes on about every type of vehicle going down them.
What would you rather replace - brake pads or transmission parts?
Exactly!
Towing a load down 6 or 10 miles of six percent grade, and you refuse to abuse the transmission by downshifting will guarantee you never have to repair the tranny....or the brakes.
And it will do it even faster on 9% grades which are not uncommon in some places. (Interstates excepted)
Birdie, with your little four banger, you will not get much compression braking anyway. But it is not like you are running 18,000 gvw.
If you come out West and you see that sign which says "Warning 6 miles 6% downgrade ahead. Trucks use lower gears." You would be well advised to grab the shifter and select a lower gear. About 3'rd on a five speed, 3'rd on a four speed, or 2'nd on a three speed. Even if you are only carrying 1000 lbs in the back.
You definitely want overdrive locked out.
Then apply brakes judiciously to keep the engine well under redline.
It is a hell of a lot better to hit those downhill freeway curves at 50 mph and have the full potential of your brake system to bring you to a stop, than it is to watch the speedo creeping toward 80 coming into a turn and your brakes have already faded to nothing.
We have been using the tranny this way since trannies had two speeds. A few weeks ago I was selecting gears on a 2015 Chevy with a six speed towing a 5000 lb boat down into and back out of Hells Canyon.
Frequent shifting, slipping clutches or bands, and high heat are the destroyers of transmissions.
What would you rather replace - brake pads or transmission parts?
You're not abusing an automatic transmission by downshifting it manually and taking advantage of engine braking, it's designed to do that. You obviously don't want to slam it into first while you're doing 70 headed downhill but gently downshifting is no problem. You are, however, abusing your brakes by riding them instead of downshifting while coming down a grade. That practice will cause you to replace your brake pads as mentioned, but that's only if you're lucky. If you make a habit of it you'll quickly be replacing rotors or maybe even the whole vehicle when you lose the brakes and go rolling off the side of a mountain.
Originally Posted by HoosierHawk
Until they break, which happens more often now with transmissions than 10-15 years ago, because they are so complicated now. They are marvels of modern engineering, but for the most part, they aren't as reliable as the old mechanical four speeds of not so long ago yesteryear.
That couldn't be further from the truth. Modern automatic transmissions are leaps and bounds more reliable than those of 10-15 years ago. They're so good now that manufacturers don't offer manuals on most models. In the past if you wanted to keep a vehicle a long time and didn't want to deal with rebuilding the transmission every 100,000 miles you bought a manual, now that's no longer the case.
Automatic computerized sensor controlled hill descent 'braking' is a feature available and / or standard on some vehicles nowadays.
My 4Runner 4wd has a descent mode. I hate it. For steep/rocky descents I use low range and shift appropriately for the terrain. I use the shifter frequently on hilly dirt roads in 2wd and have done so for years w/out a problem.
Our RAV4, 4cyl, auto trans, has a sport mode. If not mistaken, the owners manual states to slide it into sports mode and use it like a standard transmission on steep grades. It gets used that way every time I descend OR 66 into Ashland. I don't know the percent grade of that hill, but I know it's more than 6% and likely closer to 9% in a lot of stretches, with 20 MPH corners thrown in for fun. At times I'm in the 2 gear instead of "drive".
I'd prefer not to burn up a set of brakes every 6 weeks on my trips over there.
Some good info here. Some funny crap. Some just plain BS.
You ain't gonna hurt anything downshifting a newer auto. Just watch the tach and don't get crazy. The nanies wont let you overspeed and drop a valve. But if you try to go too low at higher speed, it ain't good for stuff.
As to real trucks, with electronic engines and retarders Most meet or exceed pulling HP. Meaning a 480hp engine is at 480hp braking or more. The old rule about using one gear lower was with no retarder And diesels have little hold back, due to no throttle plate and no pumping loss. (IE. No vacuum)
But with a good retarder you can go down a hill as fast as you go up it in the same gear. And probably never touch the brake.
I always thought the one gear lower rule was stupid. Think about it. It only applies if you turn around and go back down the hill you just climbed. One side might be different. You might be dropping into a canyon. Or, living here at the Allegheny plateau, you might have climbed it miles ago. And the east is way worse than many think. I've run 48 personally. Most of the big western passes are famous and well marked.
We routinely have western drivers have issues here. Our grades are not usually as long, but steeper and no fanfare. Complacency anywhere can kill.
You're right about You've got a few steep hills there. But not many that are 5 + miles of 9% grade going into a river canyon.
When you crest on of those PA hills though, it's best to know what's on the other side though. I'll attest to that. Can be hard to stop with an Amish hay wagon pulling out in front of you.
Over 250k miles on my 2010 Toyota 4-Runner with 5-speed auto trans. I use the tranny/engine combination all the time coming down our steep grades here in the Rockies with never a problem. Except for no manual clutch, the technique is pretty much exactly the same as with a manual transmission.
The road grades on I-70 east and west of the Continental Divide are some of the steepest and longest in North America. That's crazy talk controlling descent speed with just brakes.
You're right about You've got a few steep hills there. But not many that are 5 + miles of 9% grade going into a river canyon.
When you crest on of those PA hills though, it's best to know what's on the other side though. I'll attest to that. Can be hard to stop with an Amish hay wagon pulling out in front of you.
Gotta say, Salt River Canyon was a surprise. Well marked, followed the signs buy couldn't quite figure out how I was gonna go down so much. Hadn't went up.
The rim was awesome.
Amish Freightliners are a thing.
So is our propensity to have red lights, really sharp turns, or a dam T-intersection with a rock wall across the T, at the bottom of a steep grade.
What would you rather replace - brake pads or transmission parts?
Exactly!
Towing a load down 6 or 10 miles of six percent grade, and you refuse to abuse the transmission by downshifting will guarantee you never have to repair the tranny....or the brakes.
Traveling I-70 across Colorado with my 2015 Frontier towing 1500 pounds. Auto trans is already locked out of OD. There is usually so much traffic I just try to maintain a reasonable speed when climbing. When we hit the down grades I stay right and down shift one gear. Generally can run about 50 to 60 mph and don't have to overuse the brakes. Couple years back a buddy was following with his Ram and similar trailer weight. When we stopped he asked about my brakes. . He was riding his brakes and was using his up pretty bad. Had to explain use the transmission gearing & engine braking and don't be in hurry. We took a 20 minute rest so his brakes cooled down.
Point of interest just last month West Virginia I believe, I saw a semi flying downhill the other way on a long grade, trailing dense smoke like a Ju88 that just got hammered by the RAF. Dunno the outcome, they did have runaway truck ramps. Coulda been in Pennsylvania.
Depends on conditions, towing, loaded, etc. @ 50K for a simple drain and fill. Pull the dipstick and smell to see if it smells burned. Always check for appropriate fluid.
When I,m coming into Salt Lake from the East on I80 with my 8000 travel trailer behind my Tundra I just lock it in 3rd gear and cruise at about 60 MPH
Hardly ever using the brakes. Also in the Trundra if you are in drive and you start hitting the brake the trans will shift lower by itself. Also in the mountains
I increase the trailer braking, on my brake controller, I just leave it there until I get back to flat ground.
How often to replace the automatic transmission fluid?
..............I for one disagree with this so-called "lifetime" ya never need to change your trans fluid hype from some auto manufacturers. All trans fluid sooner or later breaks down and will eventually fail to properly lubricate the internal parts. The more the fluid breaks down over time and miles losing the ability to properly lubricate, the higher the liklihood for excessive heat which is any transmission's worst enemy. Check your owners manual to see if there is a recommended mileage for your transmission's fluid and filter to be changed............And then investigate what full synthetic trans fluid options are compatible with your vehicle. Using 100% synthetic eliminates petroleum acid based by-products found within conventional trans fluids that tend to wear down the internal parts faster such as the clutches, gears etc and using 100% synthetic will keep the inside of your trans much cleaner and run cooler.
100% synthetic costs more per quart, but well worth that extra cost imo as a preventative maintenance option.
I am not an Amsoil dealer or a distributor, nor do I have any business affiliation with Amsoil other than to buy their products. Amsoil has perhaps the best 100% synthetic lubricants on the planet; if not the very best on the planet as numerous tests and reports have shown that exceed Mobil One as well all other well known synthetics in almost every category. The idea is preventative maintenance, or to prevent you from having to see the inside of of a trans shop lobby for as long as you own your vehicle.
Regardless of how good Amsoil is or how good any other synthetic is you should still follow the reco'd mileage interval between changes. In my Ram truck I swapped over from the OE trans fluid to Amsoil at 55K miles and then changed the fluid and filter again at 125K using Amsoil.
Go on you tube a type in "million mile Amsoil challenge"....There you will find a two part video made by a guy who either still owns or did own a 1999 Chev van that he used for his multi-state delivery business which he bought new....At approx the 930,000 mile mark the engine was pulled and what was thought to be a larger problem only turned out to be only a valve grommet or something to that effect. And his OE transmission? At the time the video was made, 1.2 million miles on it and still going strong using Amsoil 100% synthetic trans fluid.
There are other lesser expensive choices besides Amsoil. If you happen to be running conventional trans fluid, swap over to a 100% synthetic.
Small world, I have a Nissan Frontier. It is a 2010 with 4WD. A 3.5 liter six cylinder. I live in the NC mountains. Got a long steep hill about a mile long I have to drive every time I go into town. A real brake fryer. I always downshift into low, run it at about 40 mph. I have run that hill at least 600 times in this Nissan and no transmission problems.
You're right about You've got a few steep hills there. But not many that are 5 + miles of 9% grade going into a river canyon.
When you crest on of those PA hills though, it's best to know what's on the other side though. I'll attest to that. Can be hard to stop with an Amish hay wagon pulling out in front of you.
Gotta say, Salt River Canyon was a surprise. Well marked, followed the signs buy couldn't quite figure out how I was gonna go down so much. Hadn't went up.
The rim was awesome.
Amish Freightliners are a thing.
So is our propensity to have red lights, really sharp turns, or a dam T-intersection with a rock wall across the T, at the bottom of a steep grade.
I lived on a short steep hill in NW PA town. At the bottom was the main road through town...................and the river. No wall as I recall, just a guardrail.
I did the Salt River canyon many times when I lived in that part of AZ. Not the only way, but the quickest to get to Phoenix for air travel, Costco, etc. But, that was in the early 2000s. My first time going down and up was during the monsoon, in 1975. Driving a 1954 Chevy Bel Aire with vacuum wipers. A very nice semi driver pulled over starting up the hill so I could pass, or I would have had some very slow wipers going for a few miles.
And yes, even with a 2 speed Powerglide, I used low gear once I got it slowed down to below 25MPH coming down. Holding a 4000lb car back with those undersized drum brakes (Not even power brakes) was never fun..
This post is not about diesels, but I'll just add that if you do lots of driving in hills and over mountain passes, absolutely nothing beats a diesel and today's excellent exhaust brake systems. Couple of years ago, I headed west over Wolf Creek Pass in SW CO, towing a travel trailer with my GMC Sierra Duramax. Using my cruise control, and with the Tow/Haul mode and exhaust brake activated, I was able to make it all the way from the summit of the pass westward to the bottom without ever once touching the brakes. This system really works well.
2019 Escape S, 2.5L six speed auto. I'm impressed how the cruise control and auto transmission will use downshifting and engine braking to maintain my speed on steep down hills. I like to switch to S mode and play with the shift button when I need to slow down. 69,000 miles no issues with the brakes or the transmission yet.
You're right about You've got a few steep hills there. But not many that are 5 + miles of 9% grade going into a river canyon.
When you crest on of those PA hills though, it's best to know what's on the other side though. I'll attest to that. Can be hard to stop with an Amish hay wagon pulling out in front of you.
Gotta say, Salt River Canyon was a surprise. Well marked, followed the signs buy couldn't quite figure out how I was gonna go down so much. Hadn't went up.
The rim was awesome.
Amish Freightliners are a thing.
So is our propensity to have red lights, really sharp turns, or a dam T-intersection with a rock wall across the T, at the bottom of a steep grade.
I lived on a short steep hill in NW PA town. At the bottom was the main road through town...................and the river. No wall as I recall, just a guardrail.
I did the Salt River canyon many times when I lived in that part of AZ. Not the only way, but the quickest to get to Phoenix for air travel, Costco, etc. But, that was in the early 2000s. My first time going down and up was during the monsoon, in 1975. Driving a 1954 Chevy Bel Aire with vacuum wipers. A very nice semi driver pulled over starting up the hill so I could pass, or I would have had some very slow wipers going for a few miles.
And yes, even with a 2 speed Powerglide, I used low gear once I got it slowed down to below 25MPH coming down. Holding a 4000lb car back with those undersized drum brakes (Not even power brakes) was never fun..
Good grief Geno, I didn't realize you were 90 + years old...... drum brakes.... powerglides..... hell, that schit was obsolete by the time I was a teenager .... although we did run that crap... being young broke and all.
The stupid is strong in many post here.... the old transmissions turbo 350 & 400's , C4 & C6, Torqueflights etc..... downshifting didn't hurt them one bit, it was of limited effectiveness as the torque converter would slip, as it was designed to do. The newer transmissions in trucks at least are designed to lock the converters and downshift in the tow/haul mode. The real deal is the Ram with the Cummins, now that is an animal in the braking department and worth the coast of the diesel option in my book
On a slightly different track, this is dealing with manual transmissions in the 18 wheeler. When you get to a hill on the interstate, and there is a five-mile downhill that is steep, and they have signs "THREE TRUCK RUNOFF RAMPS NEXT 4 MILES. MAX SPEED 45 MPH."
You better shift down into 7th gear and let that transmission handle that hill. If you try to ride down that steep hill in 10th gear and let the brakes handle it, you won't make it. Your brakes will begins smoking and then will catch on fire. Either you have to eat the runoff ramp, which means you have had a bad day, or else you ride it on down and pull over. Your brakes catch fire, then the tires catch fire and the trailer burns up. Either truck runoff ramp or burned up trailer, your trucking career has come to an end.
Since the Op is a Texan and many Texans have opined.... again about things they know nothing about I am not surprised..... and Birdy you ask a legit question ..... for a flatlander
The stupid is strong in many post here.... the old transmissions turbo 350 & 400's , C4 & C6, Torqueflights etc..... downshifting didn't hurt them one bit, it was of limited effectiveness as the torque converter would slip, as it was designed to do. The newer transmissions in trucks at least are designed to lock the converters and downshift in the tow/haul mode. The real deal is the Ram with the Cummins, now that is an animal in the braking department and worth the coast of the diesel option in my book
Agree with your assay of some stupid stuff - you are correct about the auto trans effects. Those who speak against that because replacing brake shoes is cheaper than "repairing" an auto trans seem to not know the territory, and most likely have never experienced serious brake fade - at which point the brake system is a zero - useless.
Speaking of Torqueflights. My truck for many years was a 1975 Dodge W20 w/ a 71 steel crank 440, a 727, 4.10 gears and the ubiquitous full time 4x4.
Many a time I came off the mountain running about 16000 GVW with the pickup and trailer loaded with firewood. First gear was too low, and second was way too high. But since the transfer case had a differential in it, you could run it it in low range on gravel, dirt or pavement.
I could run 3'rd and low on the flat parts, and down shift to second and low for descents. Even without a lockup converter, there was plenty of compression braking.
The old girl had 36 in dual glass packs dumped out in front of the rear axle. You could hear it coming off the mountain for miles.
When we hit the level pavement, we would stop and throw her back up into high range and come home. I remember using low range to come down Midvale Hill on Highway 95 once when my Mom sent me that way for a big load of fire wood.
Oh yes, good times, good company, hard work, great memories.
On a slightly different track, this is dealing with manual transmissions in the 18 wheeler. When you get to a hill on the interstate, and there is a five-mile downhill that is steep, and they have signs "THREE TRUCK RUNOFF RAMPS NEXT 4 MILES. MAX SPEED 45 MPH."
You better shift down into 7th gear and let that transmission handle that hill. If you try to ride down that steep hill in 10th gear and let the brakes handle it, you won't make it. Your brakes will begins smoking and then will catch on fire. Either you have to eat the runoff ramp, which means you have had a bad day, or else you ride it on down and pull over. Your brakes catch fire, then the tires catch fire and the trailer burns up. Either truck runoff ramp or burned up trailer, your trucking career has come to an end.
Or, you just hang on till 5 miles out onto the flats where you crash and take out a whole freeway full of cars and kill several people, Like that fool on I70 a couple years ago.
