I have a PVC drain pipe in the wall of our house. The previous owners never thought about where pipes were in relation to hanging pictures and drove a finishing nail through a 3-4" PVC drain pipe in wall downstairs. With that said, what is the best way to repair this. The pipe barely fits within the studs an has sheetrock on the both walls. I bring this up as creating an external joint will be wider than the studs and the sheetrock won't lay flat on the studs. Is their a product out there that I can use to plug the nail hole that works permanently? I'm thinking flex seal, 2 part epoxy or something along those lines. If that won't work, what's the best way to fix?

I sealed up a diesel tank on a tractor recently with epoxy.

Being it carries little pressure, I too would consider epoxy.

Second the epoxy route. I have used JB Weld to seal up in fuel tanks, water tanks, and even used it to repair a hole in the timing chain cover of a 1978 Ford F150. JB Weld is a staple at the ranch.

Well, the good news is it's a drain pipe, which usually isn't under great pressure!

Yeah epoxy will due the trick.
clean it up good, and make sure its dry, and don't be afraid to,
scuff up the surface surrounding the hole, for better adhesion!

Ya, some sort of epoxy, and am wondering if one could melt the hole with like a wood burner type iron. I hot welded a gas tank on a chainsaw once that way. Never tried it on PVC.

flex seal.

What s JB Weld, Alex?

Bubble gum works. I watched a high end custom home builder do it once. It has to work, all the subs refer to him as god in one way or another.

This stuff. Since it's a drain pipe, read the directions on how long it needs to set before getting wet.

I might drill the hole out to the appropriate pilot hole size and use a very short sheet metal screw coated in pipe dope.

or flex seal tape?

Is it pressurized, or just gravity flow? A gravity flow line would be simple to repair with epoxy I would think.

Or drill and tap for a machine screw set in caulk. Done.

Break a toothpick off in it. Wooden skewer if the toothpick is too small.

A 2-part epoxy that doesn't stick to plastics all that well.

Loctite 330. Has a spray on can of hardener, degrease pipe with alcohol and spray the hardener on. Put the epoxy on it, then hit it again with the hardener. Be same as I’ve in about 5 min. Use it at the plant for similar problems and I repaired pool ladder with it 3 years ago. Constantly wet and no issues at all

If you will simply take some PVC glue and rub it around the hole with your finger it may dissolve the pipe around the hole enough that it makes its own seal.

PC-7 would probably be your best bet.

Any of the above would probably work since it has very little or no pressure. I would UAE a tek screw with a neoprene washer like used on metal roofs and siding.

I would probably make a plug out of PVC and use PVC glue.

Lol, guys, this what we do on a fish farm. Fix pipes we break, bust, drill through, forget about and dig uo, etc.

Since it’s low pressure, take a short piece of the same diameter pipe and cut it in half lengthwise. Clean, prime and glue both the pipe and the “saddle” with lots of heavy pvc glue (or pvc epoxy I.e. weld-on 10811 if you’re OCD). Slide hose clamps around the pipe and clamp the “saddle” to the pipe.

Presto! Fixed for longer than you’ll live.....

I've done similar and would have advised the same but he made it seem like there was not any extra room.

A finish nail size hole? Just prime it and coat with blue PVC "wet or dry" glue. Make sure you get some in the hole. You'll never have a problem. It's made to bridge a bigger gap than that.

I would repair it with Sharkbites and Pex.

Yes Sharkbites are not cheap, but they are what you seek.

Yeah, put a screw in it, make sure it is long enough to catch all the ass wipe and schit than comes by.

For 1/8” of a PVC saddle plus a 1/32 for the pipe clamp? Maybe if it’s a 3” pipe (3.5” OD) in a 2x4 framed wall? Hog out a bit of the drywall if necessary.

Or, just put a nice coat of the PVC epoxy on without the saddle. It’ll hold unless you put 60 # of pressure on.

My thought would be a bit of sand paper followed by Marine-Tex.

if it pvc just use pvc glue prime it and glue it simple fix

Where do you buy your 3” and 4” shark bites and PEX?

Reading is fundamental……maybe I should try it.

Yup! I've used to sheets a couple of times at work with hard to reach places. Works great.

Wrong. Read the original post and tell me at least two reasons why you're recommendation is totally out in left field.

Read two post above you and tell me why I need to explain this to you.

I had this happen but from a nail siding went right through the exterior wall into black plastic pipe (ABS).

AS long as it doesn’t Crack (if it cracks you need to replace a piece of it… ) then you can epoxy it.

Go to a plumbing supply store and get the right expoy.

If you have to put a joint in it you can cut some of the drywall (inside side) off so it fits right.

Steel hose clamp with a 1/8” thick rubber gasket sandwiched between clamp and PVC

Mark the hole with a marker so you’ll know the rubber is positioned properly when you tighten the clamp

Takes up no space

Fill the wall with concrete.

This

Valsdad;
Good evening to you sir, I hope this last weekend in August treated you all well.

I'd never heard of Flex Seal Tape until one of the young guys on one of the YouTube offroading channels I watch mentioned it as a staple in his emergency kit.

Always the curious sort, next time I was in the big town north of us, I stopped at the Canadian Tire and picked up a roll to test.

In short order, the fullness of time or serendipitously depending upon one's description of events, I was checking the yard irrigation system and found a small tear in a drip line.

Rather than replace the line as I usually do, or put in a piece with barbed fittings on either side, I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol, wrapped it two turns with Flex Seal Tape and turned it on.

There was no leak, despite the measured pressure at a couple stand pipes hitting between 95psi - 100psi.

It held until the line - about 30 years old now I'm guessing, began to deteriorate in other spots a couple months later, but for something sitting out in the sun and rain to work under that pressure, well color me impressed!

Therein lies my product review for the weekend sir.

All the best to you folks and good luck on any hunts you're going on as well.

Dwayne

You could just get a short piece of an appropriate sized PVC pipe that you can cut lengthwise to fit over the hole and glue it with pvc pipe glue and clamp it with a couple hose clamps for insurance.

Really, just, this. And be done with it.

It sounds "as seen on TV" ridiculous, but the tape is the real deal.

It is all I use on 1 inch poly pipe irrigation that develops a crack, anymore. 2 wraps, and crank down 2 hose clamps over it - it will outlast me. I used to cut, splice, 2 couplings, etc, etc.

I help 2 elderly folks in our cul-de-sac with any emergency repairs in their yard too - the stuff is MONEY.

Especially since it is black/gray water with no pressure. Slap some flex seal tape on it and walk away.

JB Wrld makes a product called Waterweld just for this sort of application.

If you use anything other than PVC Cement your just as stupid as the people that told you to use something else.....PVC Cement will melt the pipe it is used to glue pipe......

If you have a scrap piece of PVC pipe take a common knife scrape a small pile of PVC shavings onto a wood scrap as a mixing board add PVC Cement to shavings to melt them to gather stir with a putty knife.....put a little PVC Cement on the hole then add quickly the mixture smooth with putty knife....doing this very quickly will give a very strong patch that if there was pressure it could be used as normal in several hours.....

We have used this a few times on PVC roof drain pipe. It would work fine for your application. You could tap hole for a 1/8 brass pipe plug too.

Short sheet metal screw. Dip it in pvc glue and screw it in. Try to use stainless. With a nail I wouldn't be surprised if it was a hole and a crack.

Quik steel? It's more of a putty than JB weld, or epoxy
Remember that gravity drain pipes are not meant to run at more than half full capacity (for long). But Hanco is an expert. Is it vertical or lateral? We discussed the issue of slanted drain pipes last month...
I have a rod of the equivalent "greenlight-greylight" (for you mission impossible junkies) repair putty meant for emergency under water hull repairs...

+1

I wouldnt, it'll let things (like toilet paper) hang up on it. If it were a tank, yes. but a drain, no thanks.

Flex seal, JB, epoxy. Its low/no pressure, so lots will work.

As mentioned, scuff it up make sure its dry and whateve ryou use will likely be fine.

Yep.