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This Pertronix Flamethrower distributor came on the SB 327 in my ‘68 Suburban and has worked flawlessly until now. After recently reworking the cylinder heads, I reinstalled the distributor as removed. However, now it does not produce spark.

Checks confirm that it is getting 12+ volts from the switch and good grounding. I have disassembled the dist cap and can find nothing amiss, but am very unfamiliar with this thing and do not know the diagnostic procedure. I have been unable to find such info online – even at Pertronix web sites.

I will appreciate receiving a source for such info or an explanation of the process here if not too consuming of your time. Thanks.
Needs more cowbell.
Is the coil in the cap or is it external ? What is the model # for it?
Hows the coil?
Do you have a tach and if so, does it move when cranking?
Originally Posted by Featherweight6555
Is the coil in the cap or is it external ? What is the model # for it?
Coil in cap. No model # on cap - or label of any kind - would need to again remove dist to find any markings there. May have to do that
.
Originally Posted by high_country_
Hows the coil?
That is where I need diagnostic help.
Battery unhooked when you removed it? Keyswitch possibly “on” when you removed it?
Dumb question, are you sure you didn’t get the distributor off by a tooth or 2 when reinstalled? If the rotor is off it won’t spark.
Just a word of caution on removing the distributor, make you you mark both the body and rotor before removal. Otherwise, you will need to set TDS and align the rotor and then set timing. Not the end of the world, but can complicate matters.
Originally Posted by Swifty52
Dumb question, are you sure you didn’t get the distributor off by a tooth or 2 when reinstalled? If the rotor is off it won’t spark.


That is timing issue, it'll still spark. That rotor don't know or care where it's at.
Originally Posted by mirage243
Originally Posted by Swifty52
Dumb question, are you sure you didn’t get the distributor off by a tooth or 2 when reinstalled? If the rotor is off it won’t spark.


That is timing issue, it'll still spark. That rotor don't know or care where it's at.

Correct.
Stupid question, but did you put the rotor back in? I ask because I have BTDT.


Clyde
If Pertronix(909-599-5955) is not helpful, I suggest a Summit Racing blueprinted, one wire HEI dist. $81 for a black cap, $99 for the red cap.

This is assuming you know dist. instillation procedures & corrections. Not trying to be smartass, we are just unaware of your capabilities.
This help?

https://itstillruns.com/do-test-pertronix-ignition-7993715.html
Had to remove the dist and manifold to get the heads off. Battery was out of vehicle. Dist was not opened.

As normal in this garage, engine was not turned during task. Heads and manifolds back on, dist installed in same position and reconnected as originally. There is zero fire at plugs.

For some reason it died in the process. This AM checked resistances of coil as it sits in cap. Red lead to yellow lead - reads zero. Ground connection of coil to bottom pin where power goes to rotor - reads zero. I think this Pertronix coil is dead. But, why?

Found one for sale - not cheap.

I am thinking of taking a stored 1980s GM HEI dist, replacing coil and module and using it instead. Have done this on my hunting truck (72 Blazer) and a couple of others here.

Any further thoughts on this Pertronix Flamethrower failure and fix??

Ed, thank you very much. Good find - very thoughtful of you. It may contain something beyond what I have been able to check on this specific dist - will print and take out to the shop.
PDW
Originally Posted by gunzo
If Pertronix(909-599-5955) is not helpful, I suggest a Summit Racing blueprinted, one wire HEI dist. $81 for a black cap, $99 for the red cap. This is assuming you know dist. instillation procedures & corrections. Not trying to be smartass, we are just unaware of your capabilities.
Thanks for this info on Summit availability - prices sound good and I may need to abandon Pertronix.

These HEI dists throw a lot hotter spark than the original points style that were stock in my older vehicles, but seem much more prone to sudden death. The old dists were more dependable if a guy kept a good condenser in there and maintained the gap - plus a drop of lube on the cam once in a while.
Originally Posted by BLG
Stupid question, but did you put the rotor back in? I ask because I have BTDT.Clyde

This is actually not the stupid question.
Pics? ‘68 suburban is a pretty cool ride!
Originally Posted by BillyGoatGruff
Pics? ‘68 suburban is a pretty cool ride!
As requested - 4wd, 4 speed manual, 327SB.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Very nice !
3 door or 4 ?
Originally Posted by CCCC
Originally Posted by BillyGoatGruff
Pics? ‘68 suburban is a pretty cool ride!
As requested - 4wd, 4 speed manual, 327SB.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



Nice truck! Thanks for the pics
Paul has a small but very nice Chevy museum in his "barn".... some real classic stuff in wonderful shape...
3 doors two on pass side and one for driver. The four door sub did not begin until after 1972.
Originally Posted by CCCC
3 doors two on pass side and one for driver. The four door sub did not begin until after 1972.


Super 4wd there for sure.
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