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So ex-wife has a septic pump that pumps uphill to the actual city septic network. It got stinky and she called me over. We’re still friendly enough, as we’re still co-parenting our boys, so not that big of a deal.

I’ve done troubleshooting to the point where pressing what I believe is the momentary contact button on the relay does nothing, but jumping across the relay runs the pump. Bad relay, right? Or could it be the float switch somehow?

TIA all,
Scott
Originally Posted by Scott_Thornley
So ex-wife has a septic pump that pumps uphill to the actual city septic network. It got stinky and she called me over. We’re still friendly enough, as we’re still co-parenting outlets boys, so not that big of a deal.

I’ve done troubleshooting to the point where pressing what I believe is the momentary contact button on the relay does nothing, but jumping across the relay runs the pump. Bad relay, right? Or could it be the float switch somehow?

TIA all,
Scott

Sounds like the relay.
A faulty float is most common.
Posted By: rong Re: Help - bad septic pump relay? - 06/20/22
depending on the control,is it set up to where the float pulls in the coil on the relay ?
Posted By: rong Re: Help - bad septic pump relay? - 06/20/22
jump the float and see if it pulls in.
Originally Posted by rong
jump the float and see if it pulls in.

Ah, good idea.
Those float switches are tough, but they're not indestructible. Remember- - - -they live in a reallt schiddty environment! Rig up a push button switch that connects to the same terminals as the float, push the button, and see if the pump runs. I've rebuilt those things, after a thorough wash job.
Posted By: rong Re: Help - bad septic pump relay? - 06/21/22
^^ and remember to not bite your fingernails ^^ grin
A quick ohm read would also tell.
Originally Posted by rong
^^ and remember to not bite your fingernails ^^ grin

Sheeet flows downhill
Don’t bite your fingernails
Always work with your mouth closed
Don’t eat the last bite of sandwich
Payday is on Friday


I’m not a plumber, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn once upon a time…


I have no clue what happened, but it’s working just fine now….. Seriously….

I’m looking up schematics s for the Eaton C25BNB230A contactor to see if what I think does what, actually does. I know it’s gonna fail again soon….
Just a float activated sewer pump?

Bet if you disconnect the float and try to get a read while someone manipulates the float you will find it's hit and miss.

I bet the float is a N/O and closes when it tips.

BTDT on a lot of sewage lift ststions.

Does it have a high level alarm light or buzzer that's float activated?
Don't lick your lips either.
Hit and miss syndrome could also just be debris hung up on the float.
But if he overrides the float signal by manually operating the relay to no effect, then the float signal is not the issue.
Originally Posted by akasparky
Hit and miss syndrome could also just be debris hung up on the float.
True.

Any grease build up floating around in the pit?

Possibly a zip tie that holds float to a stand pipe broke?
Originally Posted by plumbum
But if he overrides the float signal by manually operating the relay to no effect, then the float signal is not the issue.

No offense to the OP intended but since he didn't comment on a float test I'm guessing when he says he is 'jumping the relay' he's also by-passing the float in doing so.

Hat's off to him for diving in and trying to figure things out.
In doing so he's managed to pump the system down manually which I'm sure has been quite helpful.

This comment from the OP is also quite admirable..

We’re still friendly enough, as we’re still co-parenting outlets boys, so not that big of a deal.


Great example for his sons!
Originally Posted by 10gaugemag
Originally Posted by akasparky
Hit and miss syndrome could also just be debris hung up on the float.
True.

Any grease build up floating around in the pit?

Possibly a zip tie that holds float to a stand pipe broke?

Those floats are so often the culprit it's not funny, but sometimes it is.

The floats fool people, it's that black and white wire issue.

They know enough to go buy a new float and install it.
But they forget how it was wired.

So they go to their default electrical knowledge, black to the power and white to the neutral.

Well, first time the newly wired float 'makes' the breaker blows.
So they go out and buy a new pump and install it but the breaker still blows so they call a pro.

Two minutes on the job you see the problem and land the float wires in the proper locations and wa-la, everything works.

They gratefully stroke out that $129.00 service call check since their bathtub is no longer full of turds all the while swearing it'd been wired like that for years and worked.

Yeah, sure it has, $29.00 fix turned into a $500.00 DIY wonder.
Since he manually pushed in the contactor, aka starter, and it didn't run, that would mean the contacts in the starter didn't make. By jumping around the contacts, and the motor ran, it just fortifies that train of thought.

The float switch would only supply power to activate, aka pull in, the contactor. In other words, the float switch is control power to the starter.
Whether the float switch is good or bad, by manually pushing in the starter or jumping around the starter, you have by-passed the float.

If its running ok now, I suspect the starter is going bad or had trash on the contact points. We have an ant that loves to get into electrical stuff and that is a common problem with starters, pressure switches, etc. in this part of the country.
Divorced, and still dealing with her schidt. Sorry, man...
Originally Posted by Oldman03
Since he manually pushed in the contactor, aka starter, and it didn't run, that would mean the contacts in the starter didn't make.

Quote
Or the starter is dependent on 120v line power which passes through the float if it were making like 99% of home sewage pumps.

By jumping around the contacts, and the motor ran, it just fortifies that train of thought.

The float switch would only supply power to activate, aka pull in, the contactor. In other words, the float switch is control power to the starter.
Whether the float switch is good or bad, by manually pushing in the starter or jumping around the starter, you have by-passed the float.

If its running ok now, I suspect the starter is going bad or had trash on the contact points. We have an ant that loves to get into electrical stuff and that is a common problem with starters, pressure switches, etc. in this part of the country.

Kinda rare to find a mag-starter on a home sewage pump.
Pictures of what he's working with would be worth a thousand words.
Originally Posted by akasparky
Originally Posted by Oldman03
Since he manually pushed in the contactor, aka starter, and it didn't run, that would mean the contacts in the starter didn't make.

Quote
Or the starter is dependent on 120v line power which passes through the float if it were making like 99% of home sewage pumps.

By jumping around the contacts, and the motor ran, it just fortifies that train of thought.

The float switch would only supply power to activate, aka pull in, the contactor. In other words, the float switch is control power to the starter.
Whether the float switch is good or bad, by manually pushing in the starter or jumping around the starter, you have by-passed the float.

If its running ok now, I suspect the starter is going bad or had trash on the contact points. We have an ant that loves to get into electrical stuff and that is a common problem with starters, pressure switches, etc. in this part of the country.

Kinda rare to find a mag-starter on a home sewage pump.
Pictures of what he's working with would be worth a thousand words.

Yep, pics would help. And, if the power comes thru the float, that could be the problem.
Whoops, I missed this..

Originally Posted by Scott_Thornley
I’m looking up schematics s for the Eaton C25BNB230A contactor to see if what I think does what, actually does. I know it’s gonna fail again soon….

So he's on the right track with his troubleshooting.
The float is just the control leg for the coil in the contactor.
I was scratching my head on the relay reference.
I suppose it's a relay of sorts.

Contacts wasted on the contactor, $23 bucks buy a new one, not really worth the time to try and clean-up.

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[Linked Image from cdn3.volusion.com]
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Seriously, the 24 HCF is the best dang communityon the web.

Will upload a photo of the actual device, as wired. Because yes, it stopped working again today.

If it was only her shidt, I’d just laugh it off, but the boys live there too…


[img]https://flic.kr/p/2ntqFzw[/img]
If only I could stick those lugs in the image with my tester

Do you know if the pump is 220 volt or 120, On a single pole breaker or double?

I can say for a fact that switch on the upper right don't work no more😉

That contactor looks rather new but that don't mean a lot.

The one leg of the control (float) circuit is wired funky, could end up being the/a issue.
Originally Posted by Scott_Thornley
Seriously, the 24 HCF is the best dang communityon the web.

Will upload a photo of the actual device, as wired. Because yes, it stopped working again today.

If it was only her shidt, I’d just laugh it off, but the boys live there too…


[img]https://flic.kr/p/2ntqFzw[/img]

Since the relay is so cheap, why not just replace it? After all, it’s a “crap shoot” at this point right?
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