I have an old Acura that hasn't been started in about 4 years. It was running great before being parked. I plan on putting a battery in it and cranking it up. Anything I should do to it before I try and start it? I recall some old threads dealing with this subject but can't remember the suggestions.
Thanks -tnscouter
Moisture absorbent for fuel tank
Fuel system may require considerable cleaning.
Biggest issue might be old gas... Other than that check all the fluids, Check under the hood for rodent nests, Especially in the air intake... other than that, Fire it up and keep an eye on the gauges as it warms up... And check the tire pressure before driving it...
I would drain the gas, change the fuel filter, blow the lines out backward, refill and cross your fingers.
Oh yeah, check oil and coolant levels.
It'll run.
Even on the old gas.
If you are planning to use it, I would dump some ethanol free in after
You get it going. Maybe match what is in the tank.
When that's consumed, change fuel filters.
EFI doesn't have the issues with fuel that carbs do.
A little sludge plugs up the low pressure/vacuum passages of a carb.
Injection can push through it, solvent action then cleans things.
We had a Subaru sitting in the yard over 3 years. Tires flat, sunk
in the dirt. It fired after about 30 seconds of cranking, smoothed out
within a minute.
Wouldn't move though. The brake pads had rusted and swollen against the rotors. Pulled the pads and drove it on the trailer.
Sea foam for the hell of it
It'll run.
Even on the old gas.
If you are planning to use it, I would dump some ethanol free in after
You get it going. Maybe match what is in the tank.
When that's consumed, change fuel filters.
EFI doesn't have the issues with fuel that carbs do.
A little sludge plugs up the low pressure/vacuum passages of a carb.
Injection can push through it, solvent action then cleans things.
We had a Subaru sitting in the yard over 3 years. Tires flat, sunk
in the dirt. It fired after about 30 seconds of cranking, smoothed out
within a minute.
Wouldn't move though. The brake pads had rusted and swollen against the rotors. Pulled the pads and drove it on the trailer.
This followed with this.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/
Check the air cleaner box for acorns and dog food kibble
I'd try to get a breaker bar and socket on the crank and turn it over before you hit it with the starter. Then I would pull the plugs if you can get to them, dump a little Techron in and spin the motor. After that everything everybody else said.
Like has been said
It'll run.
Even on the old gas.
If you are planning to use it, I would dump some ethanol free in after
You get it going. Maybe match what is in the tank.
When that's consumed, change fuel filters.
EFI doesn't have the issues with fuel that carbs do.
A little sludge plugs up the low pressure/vacuum passages of a carb.
Injection can push through it, solvent action then cleans things.
We had a Subaru sitting in the yard over 3 years. Tires flat, sunk
in the dirt. It fired after about 30 seconds of cranking, smoothed out
within a minute.
Wouldn't move though. The brake pads had rusted and swollen against the rotors. Pulled the pads and drove it on the trailer.
This followed with this.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/Sound advice đź‘Ť
Easy on the seafoam. A little is okay, too much will clean the old gelled fuel out of your tank and REALLY plug things up!
As already posted ^ ^ ^ ^
Don't try to turn it over without cleaning the fuel
system thoroughly, and squirting some foofoo
down the plug holes
You'll just be saving yourself a lot of grief
BTDT a bunch of times
Good Luck
It'll run.
Even on the old gas.
If you are planning to use it, I would dump some ethanol free in after
You get it going. Maybe match what is in the tank.
When that's consumed, change fuel filters.
EFI doesn't have the issues with fuel that carbs do.
A little sludge plugs up the low pressure/vacuum passages of a carb.
Injection can push through it, solvent action then cleans things.
We had a Subaru sitting in the yard over 3 years. Tires flat, sunk
in the dirt. It fired after about 30 seconds of cranking, smoothed out
within a minute.
Wouldn't move though. The brake pads had rusted and swollen against the rotors. Pulled the pads and drove it on the trailer.
Yep. Dad’s last Ranch Truck, a 92 Chevy 2500 3/4 ton had been sitting at the Ranch for 3 years after he died.
Put a new battery on it and it started right up after about 15 seconds of cranking. Put some fuel conditioner and fresh gas in it was all I did besides the new battery. Drove it about 20 miles to the nearest town to top off the 40 gallon gas tank and the engine ran as smooth as ever by the time I made it back to the Ranch.
Some good checks noted above. If faced with this and considered the car to be of useful value, I would be a bit more cautious than some.
Do all of the noted checks.
My main concerns would be dry surfaces and bad fuel - particularly if the stuff in the tank is ethanol.
So, would have the fuel from tank pump into a clear container - for inspection and smell test. Fuel the engine by gravity feed from small tank or long funnel to input on engine - use good fuel to get it started and run for a bit.
Before starting, pull each plug and squirt in a small amount of light lube - Marvel Mystery or similar - and then spin the engine for at least 30 seconds with no spark - pull the coil wire, etc. Look for a bit of oil pressure to pump lube around.
Then, add spark and give it a whirl. If it runs OK (probably will) but the fuel coming from the fuel tank looks/smells bad - pump it all out.
Best wishes.
Get boosted and wear a mask
Watch about 30 episodes of Vice Grip Garage on YouTube as he does this with cars that have been sitting for 30+ years. That should get you good and ready.
A buddy of mine just started a Geo Metro that had been sitting 9 years, a new battery and it started up in about 3 seconds. Fuel injection doesn't suffer from sitting like carbs do, it's amazing that most will still start after all those years. I'd check the fluids, stick a new battery in, and give it a try. Chances are it'll start. It'll let you know soon enough is there's something that needs fixing.
Watch about 30 episodes of Vice Grip Garage on YouTube as he does this with cars that have been sitting for 30+ years. That should get you good and ready.
Bingo! Don't forget to do a walk around and check the trunk for parts!
Old fuel can cause varnish buildup on the intake valve stems, jamming them in the guides, leaving the stuck-open valve to be bent by a piston.
Used to work at an engine shop, saw it several times.
I would never run old gas through a motor. Ever.
...spin the engine for at least 30 seconds with no spark...
This. You want to get oil to all the bearings before starting it.
Which engine, and how old is the timing belt.
Have seen old, rotten belts strip the teeth off in the same scenario.
Old fuel can cause varnish buildup on the intake valve stems, jamming them in the guides, leaving the stuck-open valve to be bent by a piston.
Used to work at an engine shop, saw it several times.
I would never run old gas through a motor. Ever.
Had a gasoline Ford tractor that the stuck open valve was bent and had to replace….major expense. Never try to operate with gas that has gone bad from sitting a long time….lesson learned.
Check the air cleaner box for acorns and dog food kibble
That's no joke. I've had some rounds with both 4 legged and feathered invaders in cars. One of them cost me $700.
Started a few gasoline engines that sat for extended periods in my time. I think the longest was just over 30 years.
Check fluid levels in case any leaked over time and install new battery. Visually inspect under hood for any obvious outward problems (rodent damage, etc). Fuel tank drain may not be necessary after only 4 years.
If it ran well beforehand should run same now. Fire it right up.
If no start condition; work backwards from spark condition to fuel delivery etc etc.
-Ken
I’d pull the plugs and lubricate through the holes, probably turn it over a few times sans plugs.
I’d drain all the old gas and change the fuel filter prior to trying to start, then change the fuel filter again after 50-100Mi.
Lifting each corner and assuring the wheels spin freely is probably a good idea as well. No sense in putting a big load on the transmission due to brake-pad issues when it’s fairly easily avoidable.
Fairly quickly after getting it running/driving I’d swap out oil and transmission fluid for sure. Probably brake fluid and coolant as well. I’d want the anti-corrosion properties of those fluids back up to snuff.
Just started a car that had been in storage, pulled the coil wire and turned it over for a bit to hopefully get some oil up top in the engine.
Check the air cleaner box for acorns and dog food kibble
Isn't it amazing how mice and squirrels will find, or make, an opening and build nest or store food in the air cleaner box or in the duct system? Hardware cloth is your friend.
I’d pull the plugs and lubricate through the holes, probably turn it over a few times sans plugs.
If there's any gas in the lines, it could be pumped into a cylinder and the piston can splash it out the hole - right into a spark from a plug or a wire if it's close enough to the block. Be sure that no wires are lying where they can spark.
Pull the Plugs and squirt some 2 stroke oil directly in the cylinders...
Speaking of oil might want to change it first so the engine isn't trying to lubricate itself with sludge.
Check the air cleaner box for acorns and dog food kibble
That's no joke. I've had some rounds with both 4 legged and feathered invaders in cars. One of them cost me $700.
Sounds like you were lucky and they didn't gnaw on the wiring...
Check the air cleaner box for acorns and dog food kibble
That's no joke. I've had some rounds with both 4 legged and feathered invaders in cars. One of them cost me $700.
Sounds like you were lucky and they didn't gnaw on the wiring...
Mice built a nest inside the heater box under dash of my wife's Dodge Dakota. It completely blocked the heat and a/c air flow. I had to take it to a shop the completely dismantle all the crap under there to get it out. I had them put a new heater core in it while it was apart just in case.
Yes, before anything, pull the sparkalators and squirt in some penetrating oil or something to put some lubrication onto the rings BEFORE you try to turn it over or crank it.
Try it with the fuel in the tank. If you're lucky it'll run, but fill it up with fresh and some cleaner.
Next task would be to drain the old brake lines and bleed in fresh.
All some good advice. Helps to remember some of these things.
My 72 challenger has not been cranked in 6 years. Had the timing and electric fuel pump set to perfection. Half turn of the key it fire right up.
Been in the garage untouched since my medical chit began.
My plans are to change the fluids, oil, pump out the gas, pull the plugs, squirt a shot of STP in each cyl. Rotate the crank bolt and slowly cycle the with a breaker bar/rachet about a dozen revols to coat those rings and walls. Give a few more bumps with a hot battery.
New plugs and fresh gas. See if it’ll fire up
Check the air cleaner box for acorns and dog food kibble
That's no joke. I've had some rounds with both 4 legged and feathered invaders in cars. One of them cost me $700.
Sounds like you were lucky and they didn't gnaw on the wiring...
Mice built a nest inside the heater box under dash of my wife's Dodge Dakota. It completely blocked the heat and a/c air flow. I had to take it to a shop the completely dismantle all the crap under there to get it out. I had them put a new heater core in it while it was apart just in case.
Been there done it and dealt with it myself... Vinegar helps kill the ammonia stink...though I still occasionally get a bit of seed pod rattle in the vents on high defroster..
Yes, before anything, pull the sparkalators and squirt in some penetrating oil or something to put some lubrication onto the rings BEFORE you try to turn it over or crank it.
Try it with the fuel in the tank. If you're lucky it'll run, but fill it up with fresh and some cleaner.
Next task would be to drain the old brake lines and bleed in fresh.
I like 2-stroke because it is thick enough to give the rings a good coating and help make the pistin-ring-cylinder seal yet it is designed to burn off/pass through through the exhaust system. And those little 2.6 oz trimmer/chainsaw bottles are the perfect size for the job!
Fellows I appreciate all the help. How much oil do you squirt in the spark plug openings? This is a car my youngest wants to fool with and get running. If it runs well than we will proceed with all the other work it needs.
Thanks. -tnscouter
Watch about 30 episodes of Vice Grip Garage on YouTube as he does this with cars that have been sitting for 30+ years. That should get you good and ready.
I was going to say the same thing. Four years is not that big of a deal, as long as there is gas in the tank and a fresh battery it will start.
May well not apply to a recent Accura. In my hot rod days we would pull the distributor and drive the oil pump for a while to build pressure and fill all the oil passages including hydraulic lifters. For cars with no easy access to the oil pump there used to be and maybe still are gadgets that use the oil filter plumbing to pressurize the oil system. Agreed that if it were mine I'd likely pull the oil pan and make sure no sludge and drain and refill the tank and radiator.
This mostly assumes that cars left to sit were probably neglected for a while before being abandoned. If the car was well maintained with consistent regular oil changes up to the end and the gas tank is full I'd crank it and expect it to start.
I'd try to get a breaker bar and socket on the crank and turn it over before you hit it with the starter. Then I would pull the plugs if you can get to them, dump a little Techron in and spin the motor. After that everything everybody else said.
Definitely this ^^^^^^^^
If it’s a stick make sure it’s not in gear don’t trust just pushing the clutch in.
I would make sure the engine spins without load for a few revolutions. Startup is rough on engines until the oil flows. You could probably get away with pulling the distributor (I know) lead and cranking for a few seconds, do at least that rather than just firing up dry. It depends on how much you liked that thing before it was parked.
I would make sure the engine spins without load for a few revolutions. Startup is rough on engines until the oil flows. You could probably get away with pulling the distributor (I know) lead and cranking for a few seconds, do at least that rather than just firing up dry. It depends on how much you liked that thing before it was parked.
Easier to pull the fuel pump relay.
My anti theft, anti start was pulling the coil wire
Yank my coil wire discretely cram it in my coat pocket. While I went into a store, business, one of them thar picture shows.
Who has a coil wire nowadays though. On their fancy schmancy 2025 fĂ g wagon??
A blast or two of wd-40 in each cyl is all you want.
Pull all plugs, a one-second blast of WD per hole, crank it over a few times, re-install the plugs, and off you go.
After having checked the oil level and addressed the fuel.
I have an old Acura that hasn't been started in about 4 years.
What model and year?
My anti theft, anti start was pulling the coil wire
Yank my coil wire discretely cram it in my coat pocket. While I went into a store, business, one of them thar picture shows.
Who has a coil wire nowadays though. On their fancy schmancy 2025 fĂ g wagon??
2025??
I would agree with most of what I've seen here with regard to getting rid of the old fuel, old oil, pressurize the oil system. I would be inclined to squirt some Kroil, 1st choice, or Marvel Mystery Oil down the spark plug ports and also wherever (depending on the type of engine) I could get some on the valve stems. I would then turn it over by hand with the plugs out a few revs and let it sit overnight before seriously trying to start it. I would not, as someone suggested above, spray WD-40 in it. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil or even a good lubricant. It's got something suspended in it (maybe silicone, I don't know) to provide a water/moisture barrier and it will eventually gum up anything it's used on. Just my $0.02.
Drain the gas tank, check the oil and coolant, pump up the tires. Check under the hood and in the breather for fluffy the mouse. If it has been used as a nest, don't start it until it's all cleaned out and the wiring and hoses are looked over for mouse damage..If it's all clear, put in some fresh gas and give it a crank. It might be wise to flush out the fuel lines first also. I'd change the oil/filter and fuel filter after it runs an hour or so.
Four years? Put a booster on it and turn the key.
Depends on how it is stored. A car or truck stored in a covered area and not subject to lots of moisture will probably be fine with the usual checks- oil, gas, turn over by hand, pull the distributor and crank the oil pump with a drill and shaft to oil up the parts and put power to the battery.
If it has been exposed to weather, better make sure the engine hasn't gotten water down any holes into the bores or heads or you could do more damage than you can imagine in short order.
As far as gas, sour gas has a real distinct smell to it- usually strong like vinegar. However, sludge and other contaminants can still plug up the works, especially the fuel lines, carb jets, and filters. I think Startron is the best additive in this case as it is enzyme based and will dissolve most gelled fuel . I wouldn't put any Seafoam in it until you got it running a bit first , then dump a bottle of it in the tank and run it until it stops smoking... hopefully you won't have to run a full tank of gas to run it through.
Fellows I appreciate all the help. How much oil do you squirt in the spark plug openings? -tnscouter
Not necessary. Only time you need to oil a cylinder is a flooded no-start condition.
Trust me.
-Ken
Fellows I appreciate all the help. How much oil do you squirt in the spark plug openings? -tnscouter
Not necessary. Only time you need to oil a cylinder is a flooded no-start condition. Trust me.
-Ken
Ken - not arguing here, but very curious - because I have learned to squirt in a very light dose if an engine has been sitting dead for years.
What is your reasoning on this - would like to trust you.
Fellows I appreciate all the help. How much oil do you squirt in the spark plug openings? -tnscouter
Not necessary. Only time you need to oil a cylinder is a flooded no-start condition.
Trust me.
-Ken
Hardly. Guys have broken piston rings and ring lands by following that advice.
Hardly. Guys have broken piston rings and ring lands by following that advice.
You’re not gonna break any piston rings unless it’s rusted and seized up and if that’s the case, the engine will need a rebuild or replacement anyways.
Hardly. Guys have broken piston rings and ring lands by following that advice.
You’re not gonna break any piston rings unless it’s rusted and seized up and if that’s the case, the engine will need a rebuild or replacement anyways.
Not necessarily. If there is light rust in the bores a light coat of oil will help to lubricate the cylinders so the rings don't drag the surface rust up and down the cylinder and score them before the oil is pumped up enough to lubricate the pistons and rings. It may also help to break free any rings that are rusted into the ring grooves...
If there’s light rust it’s blown out easier if it’s dry. Oil will only help it cling… but light rust ain’t gonna mean much after 5 minutes of run time.
Drain, flush and replace all the fluid. Change the battery. Bleed the brakes, nothing worse than getting it started and realizing you can't stop it before you hit that wall.
To the OP; if your next thread asks how to start a Poulan chainsaw that has sat for 3 years with ethanol gas in it, you go on ignore!!! Start the car already!
Fellows I appreciate all the help. How much oil do you squirt in the spark plug openings? -tnscouter
Not necessary. Only time you need to oil a cylinder is a flooded no-start condition. Trust me.
-Ken
Ken - not arguing here, but very curious - because I have learned to squirt in a very light dose if an engine has been sitting dead for years.
What is your reasoning on this - would like to trust you.
Started many gasoline engines in cars and trucks which sat idle for years. Longest was just over 30 years IIRC.
Granted, 4 yr old sitting engine is dry, but so is one that sits overnight.
Oil will be delivered to cylinders and valves quickly on start, in fact initially on cranking from pan sump. The pump kicks in immediately.
-Ken
What would be the reason for manufacture, purchase and use of "top of cylinder lubricants"?
No reason if you use a good quality motor oil (and filter).
-Ken
What would be the reason for manufacture, purchase and use of "top of cylinder lubricants"?
People LOVE additives, and love to solve problems that either do not exist, or need mechanical repair.
Top end lubricants being an example of useless additives.
What would be the reason for manufacture, purchase and use of "top of cylinder lubricants"?
Seople LOVE additives, and love to solve problems that either do not exist, or need mechanical repair.
Top end lubricants being an example of useless additives.
'Top engine fouling' was an issue back in the late 70's-early 80's with the relatively new smog controls.
Anyone got that sumbitch started yet?
Anyone got that sumbitch started yet?
If T-Scout follows half of the advice offered it will be at least a month and a $1,000 min before the key can impregnate the switch.