Have a Ferguson TO35 1959 model checked the trans fluid and it’s milky water in it.What is the best to put back in it I’ve googled everything from 10/30 to 90wt but read it needs to be mineral because of bronze bearings.I know I need to replace the shifter boots but want to do it right the first time and be in the clear.
Enough heat will boil it out.
Vintage tractors can be picky about what’s best for transmission/hydraulic fluid. My 8N used straight 80 weight mineral oil. The normal transmission fluid you see everywhere won’t work. A five gallon bucket of mineral oil cost $100 at NAPA. Your tractor, being of the same vintage, might have a very specific fluid type….
Milky means water got in it, probably outside in the rain. It needs to be drained and replaced.
8 gallons capacity I want to know the correct type the manual doesn’t spec
Enough heat will boil it out.
I bush hogged a bit with it a week or so ago noticed it was getting hot around my feet checked the fluids
GL1 90.
GL1 is a mineral oil.
People have also used `15-40 dino oil and seem to have no problems but I'd stick with what the manual says to use.
Have a Ferguson TO35 1959 model checked the trans fluid and it’s milky water in it.What is the best to put back in it I’ve googled everything from 10/30 to 90wt but read it needs to be mineral because of bronze bearings.I know I need to replace the shifter boots but want to do it right the first time and be in the clear.
It's just called Tractor transmission/hydraulic fluid (it's both) you can buy it at any farm or parts store. I think I remember a filter under a plate on the left side.
You need to get the water contamination out first. Not easy.
You need to get the water contamination out first. Not easy.
Yeah
Just me
I'd much rather drain sh*tty contaminated fluid
and/or fuel and replace with relatively inexpensive
clean new stuff than have the expense of possibly
having to replace rust pitted bearings and/or
galled shafts and seals or maybe an expensive
housing of some kind from moisture in a
fluid. I've always thought that was way easier
and cheaper
You need to get the water contamination out first. Not easy.
Yeah
Just me
I'd much rather drain sh*tty contaminated fluid
and/or fuel and replace with relatively inexpensive
clean new stuff than have the expense of possibly
having to replace rust pitted bearings and/or
galled shafts and seals or maybe an expensive
housing of some kind from moisture in a
fluid. I've always thought that was way easier
and cheaper
exactly my thoughts and wonders
Have a Ferguson TO35 1959 model checked the trans fluid and it’s milky water in it.What is the best to put back in it I’ve googled everything from 10/30 to 90wt but read it needs to be mineral because of bronze bearings.I know I need to replace the shifter boots but want to do it right the first time and be in the clear.
It's just called Tractor transmission/hydraulic fluid (it's both) you can buy it at any farm or parts store. I think I remember a filter under a plate on the left side.
Hydro /trans
Might be easier to get a hose all the way to the bottom and start filling... hopefully the water and gunk is pushed up and out. Who cares if you waste a few gallons of oil.
Weight? No idea.
I bought this stuff from Walmart for my truck pumpkins... I like it.
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/qM7w4TRQ/Screenshot-2022-08-06-at-20-19-02-Ultra1-Plus-SAE-75-W-90-Synthetic-Gear-Oil-API-GL-5-4-Gallon-16-QT.png)
Good luck to you Sir!
Have a Ferguson TO35 1959 model checked the trans fluid and it’s milky water in it.What is the best to put back in it I’ve googled everything from 10/30 to 90wt but read it needs to be mineral because of bronze bearings.I know I need to replace the shifter boots but want to do it right the first time and be in the clear.
It's just called Tractor transmission/hydraulic fluid (it's both) you can buy it at any farm or parts store. I think I remember a filter under a plate on the left side.
Hydro /trans
Be careful what you ask for at the supply house.
Newer (late 1960s-1970s era)International Hydro tractors use "Hy-Tran" for the Hydro transmission and hydraulics system. It is similar to Dexron auto transmission fluid and is a far different animal than the 80-90 weight gear lube you need for that old TO-35.
For the last 60 years we have kept the gear boxes of the old Fergusons and Fords in the extended family full of the same old stinky Sulfer smelling 80-90 weight that we used in the differentials of the pickups and trucks.
That would be nine Ford 8N tractors, one of which sits outside right now, and five still at my Uncles house. A TO 20, a Ferguson 35, a Ford 800, a Ferguson 135, and a Ferguson 40. I never heard mention of "Mineral oil".
Off topic, but is your Ferguson one of those that uses a gate in the
shift pattern to run the starter?
An old man I helped had two like that.
Thought they were Ford's at first, they said "Grab that tractor and
back it over here to the baler."
Then they had a good time when I couldn't start the damn thing.
There is no internal or external filter on the TO 35 and it takes the 80-90 WT gear oil. Drain it all out from the plug at the bottom of the rear case and refill it at the plug at the top of the transmission. The transmission compartment fills first then flows into the rear differential area. Check the fluid level with the dipstick on the right (brake pedal) side.
I remember the Fergusons that had that starter switch configuration. The Ford 8N had a dimmer like push button near the shifter. It could not be depressed unless the tractor wan in neutral.
But the 35 I was familiar with had the start button on the dash.
Off topic, but is your Ferguson one of those that uses a gate in the
shift pattern to run the starter?
An old man I helped had two like that.
Thought they were Ford's at first, they said "Grab that tractor and
back it over here to the baler."
Then they had a good time when I couldn't start the damn thing.
I got the better version
I remember the Fergusons that had that starter switch configuration. The Ford 8N had a dimmer like push button near the shifter. It could not be depressed unless the tractor wan in neutral.
But the 35 I was familiar with had the start button on the dash.
That’s what I got start on the dash
Most of the older tractor manuals say to use mineral oil, I've always used 303 and have had no problems. Drain the milky oil, refill with diesel fuel, drive around slowly and then drain and refill the tractor with oil.
Off topic, but is your Ferguson one of those that uses a gate in the
shift pattern to run the starter?
An old man I helped had two like that.
Thought they were Ford's at first, they said "Grab that tractor and
back it over here to the baler."
Then they had a good time when I couldn't start the damn thing.
Had a TO30 that I spent a lifetime on as a teenager bushogging and working arenas that had was like that. Hated it every minute I drive it but looking back it was good for me.
I gave $2500 for it 10 yr ago and put it thru hell cutting raking and square bailing hay to pay for one of my other properties been done with that a few years still producing not by me I’d like to keep the old man going that helped
Did you install the fluid that is in there? if so, what did you install?
The "milky" look may indeed be caused by water contamination of normal fluid of some types. Then again, it may not be contamination - that is why I asked what you installed.
If you did not install the fluid, it is possible that the previous owner installed a more modern hydraulic product - one I used most recently looked milky coming new from the container.
I do not remember the designations and the container is gone. Try to get that figured out.
If no clear answer, best to do as the earlier fellow said - drain at the bottom, install new fluid meeting the specs stated for your MF.
I have 3 of them old tractors from that timeframe and have worked on a few others and if it were mine I would put 80W90 in the transmission/rear end . I know all of the newer tractors run hydraulic oil but we run 80w90 in all of ours. If your going to be running it in 0 degrees I would put 75w90 in it.
Most of the older tractor manuals say to use mineral oil, I've always used 303 and have had no problems. Drain the milky oil, refill with diesel fuel, drive around slowly and then drain and refill the tractor with oil.
This is similar to what the manual for my JD ('39 B) says to do when changing the tranny oil. RTFM
Your manual will give procedures for changing and the correct lubes to use. RTFM
If you don't have one, get one. RTFM
RTFM
Haven't got a clue about what oil it takes but I'd research and it will surface up. When I was a kid I split an Ford 4WD tractor case one summer. It was an intriguing job for a kid.
I’ve worked on a many of these tractors it’s common for them to get water in the transmission especially if it has set outside. Most of the time it gets in around the shifter if the rubber boot is worn out.
Like someone else said just drain it out and flush it with diesel fuel if you want then refill with what your manual calls for most of the time we used 90wt or 80-90.
Mineral water is what you seek.
Milky color should pose no problem.
Lots of old transmissions use 90 weight transmission grease, but not all. Maybe you can find a manual online, or talk to a collector who would know.
milky fluid could be caused by condensation , drain , put diesel in like other guy said , drive it slow for a few minutes drain and add new tractor hydr fluid
What is the best to put back in it I’ve googled everything from 10/30 to 90wt but read it needs to be mineral because of bronze bearings.
I have the same issue with a Troy-Bilt tiller that has brass gears in the gear box. It calls for 90 or 140 wt GL-1 gear oil and I get 90 Wt from NAPA as Godogs mentioned. That is probably what I would do for your tractor.
Another option would be to call Warren Distribution, the largest private label maker of oils and fluids. They make the Walmart Supertech brand and most of the other "private label" lubricants. The number is (800) 825-1235.
I have heard they are very good to talk to and you could ask them for a recommendation for yellow metal safe fluid.
Oil and water separate when sitting.
Rather than just "draining" the old fluid out, warm the tractor up to operating temperature and use the hydraulic/transmission system to mix up the oil/water.
The more milky it is when you drain it, the better.
Don't forget to change any filters too.
Oil and water separate when sitting
Don't forget to change any filters too.
Eventual water and oil separation is a given. When it does, the water will go to the bottom. The drain plug(if it has one) for the trans case should be at the lowest point in the block.
Given enough time for oil and water to separate, when you remove the drain plug the water should be the first thing to drain. Top it off or change out the remaining fluid completely and replace the shifter boots if that’s where moisture is entering the system.
It's a good idea on any new to us rig, to change all the fluids.
. I never heard mention of "Mineral oil".
GL1 is mineral oil. It is specified for that tractor because copper and bronze bushings were used in the tractors transmission.
milky fluid could be caused by condensation , drain , put diesel in like other guy said , drive it slow for a few minutes drain and add new tractor hydr fluid
I would probably skip the diesel because of the soft metal bushings used in that particular tractors trans, they may gall and be ruined.
You need to get the water contamination out first. Not easy.
A lot of that water contamination comes from simple condensation over the years.. Very common in some old models.. My son bought a Farmall C and changed all the fluids asap.. The trans fluid came out looking like a vanilla shake...
Most of the older tractor manuals say to use mineral oil, I've always used 303 and have had no problems. Drain the milky oil, refill with diesel fuel, drive around slowly and then drain and refill the tractor with oil.
Yep, exactly what I did three months ago on my 8N. Hydraulic fluid has turned milky from being contaminated with rainwater that leaked in around the boot on the shifter. Drained it. Then filled with a couple of gallons of diesel. Cranked till it got warm and then drained it. Sparkling clean inside. Then filled with NAPA 80 at mineral oil. The diesel clean out was a smart move…glad I read up on that step.